American Water Heater 40 Gallon 36000 BTU UltraLow Nox Direct Vent Natural Gas Water Heater DVUG6240S36NV user manual

							21
Operating the Temperature Control System
Figure 19: Status Codes
VAC
List of status codes are shown
at top of gas control valve/thermostat.
Water Temperature Adjustment
The water temperature can be adjusted from 55°F to 155°F. 
Turn the Gas Control/Temperature Knob to the desired 
setting/temperature.
Operating Modes and Settings
• Standard Mode - The controller adjusts the water 
heater to maintain the temperature set by the user.
• Vacation Setting - The controller adjusts the water 
temperature to approximately 55°F. This setting is 
recommended when the water heater is not in use for 
a long period of time. This effectively turns the water 
heater down to a setting that prevents the water from 
freezing.
Status Light Code
Normal Flashes: 
•  0 Flashes   Indicates Control Off/Pilot Out.
•  1 Flashes   Indicates Normal Operation.
•  Continuous Light indicates the gas control 
valve/thermostat is shutting down.
Diagnostic Flashes: If the water heater is not working look 
for the following diagnostic flashes after lighting the pilot.
2 Flashes   Indicates Thermopile Voltage Low
4 Flashes  Indicates Overheat Failure         
5 Flashes   Indicates Sensor Failure
7 Flashes   Indicates Electronic Control Failure
8 Flashes  See “Status Light Code Troubleshooting Chart.” 
						

							22
Operational Conditions
Condensation
Moisture from the products of combustion condenses on the 
tank surface and the outside jacket of the water heater and 
forms drops of water which may fall onto the burner or other 
hot surfaces. This will produce a “sizzling” or “frying” noise. 
NOTE: This condensation is normal and should not be 
confused with a leaking tank. Condensation may increase or 
decrease at different times of the year.
High efficient energy saver water heaters will produce 
larger amounts of condensation on initial start-up or when 
a large amount of hot water is being used. NOTE: Do not 
confuse this with a “tank leak”. Once the water reaches a 
temperature of 120°F and the tank warms up (usually 1-2 
hours), the condensation will stop.
IMPORTANT: It is always recommended that a suitable 
metal drain pan be installed under the water heater 
to protect the area from water damage resulting from 
normal condensation production, a leaking tank or piping 
connections. Refer to “Location Requirements” on page 
5. Under no circumstances is the manufacturer to be held 
responsible for any water damage in connection with this 
water heater.
Water Heater Sounds
During the normal operation of the water heater, sounds or 
noises may be heard. These noises are common and may 
result from the following:
1.  Normal expansion and contraction of metal parts during 
periods of heat-up and cool-down.
2.  Condensation causes sizzling and popping within the 
burner area and should be considered normal.
3.  Sediment buildup in the tank bottom will create varying 
amounts of noise and may cause premature tank failure. 
Drain and flush the tank as directed under “Draining and 
Flushing”.
Smoke/Odor
The water heater may give off a small amount of smoke 
and odor during the initial start-up of the unit. This is due to 
the burning off of oil from metal parts of a new unit and will 
disappear after a few minutes of operation. 
Safety Shut-off
This water heater is designed to automatically shut-off in the 
event of the following:
1.  The pilot flame is extinguished for any reason.
2.  The water temperature exceeds 189°F (87°C).
3.  Excessive combustion chamber temperatures.
4.  The ignition of flammable vapors.
A thermopile is used to determine if a pilot flame is present, 
and will shut off the gas supply to the main burner and the 
pilot if the flame is absent.  A temperature limit switch or 
ECO (Energy Cut Off) sensor located in the gas control valve\
thermostat is used to shut off the water heater if the water 
temperature exceeds 189°F (87°C).
The Diagnostic Status Light will flash a code indicating 
an “Overheat Failure” (4 Flashes).  See “Operating the 
Temperature Control System.”  If the ECO has functioned the 
gas control valve/thermostat should be replaced by a qualified 
person. Contact your local dealer for service information.
Anode Rod/Water Odor
Each water heater contains at least one anode rod, 
which will slowly deplete (due to electrolysis) prolonging 
the life of the water heater by protecting the glass-lined 
tank from corrosion. Adverse water quality, hotter water 
temperatures, high hot water usage, hydronic heating 
devices, and water softening methods can increase 
the rate of anode rod depletion. Once the anode rod 
is depleted, the tank will start to corrode, eventually 
developing a leak.
Certain water conditions will cause a reaction between the 
anode rod and the water. The most common complaint 
associated with the anode rod is a “rotten egg smell” 
produced from the presence of hydrogen sulfide gas 
dissolved in the water. 
IMPORTANT: Do not remove this rod permanently as it will 
void any warranties. A special anode rod may be available 
if water odor or discoloration occurs.
NOTE: This rod may reduce but not eliminate water odor 
problems. The water supply system may require special 
filtration equipment from a water conditioning company to 
successfully eliminate all water odor problems.
Artificially softened water is exceedingly corrosive because 
the process substitutes sodium ions for magnesium and 
calcium ions. The use of a water softener may decrease 
the life of the water heater tank.
The anode rod should be removed from the water heater 
tank every 3 years for inspection. 
NOTE: artificially softened water requires the anode rod to 
be inspected annually.
The following are typical (but not all) signs of a depleted 
anode rod:
•  The majority of the rods diameter is less than 3/8”.
•  Significant sections of the support wire (approx. 1/3 or 
more of the anode rod’s length) are visible.
If the anode rod show signs of either or both it should be 
replaced. NOTE: Whether re-installing or replacing the 
anode rod, check for any leaks and immediately correct if 
found.
In replacing the anode:
1.  Turn off gas supply to the water 
heater.
2.  Shut off the water supply and 
open a nearby hot water faucet to 
depressurize the water tank.
3.  Drain approximately 5 gallons 
of water from tank. (Refer to 
“Draining and Flushing” for proper 
procedures). Close drain valve.
4.  Remove old anode rod.
5.  Use Teflon® tape or approved pipe 
sealant on threads and install new 
anode rod.
6.  Turn on water supply and open a 
nearby hot water faucet to purge air 
from water system.
7.  Check for any leaks and immediately correct any if 
found.
8.  Restart the water heater as directed in this manual. See 
the Repair Parts Illustration for anode rod location.
TEFLON ® is a registered trademark of E.I. Du Pont De Nemours and Company.
Figure 20: 
						

							23
MAINTENANCE OF YOUR WATER HEATER
Draining and Flushing
It is recommended that the tank be drained and flushed 
every 6 months to remove sediment which may build up 
during operation. The water heater should be drained if 
being shut down during freezing temperatures. To drain the 
tank, perform the following steps:
1.  Turn off the gas to the water heater at the manual gas 
shut-off valve.
2.  Open a nearby hot water faucet until the water is no 
longer hot.
3.  Close the cold water inlet valve.
4.  Connect a hose to the drain valve and terminate it to an 
adequate drain or external to the building.
5.  Open the water heater drain valve and allow all of the 
water to drain from the tank. Flush the tank with water 
as needed to remove sediment.
6.  Close the drain valve, refill the tank, and restart the 
heater as directed in this manual.
If the water heater is going to be shut down for an extended 
period, the drain valve should be left open.
IMPORTANT: Condensation may occur when refilling the 
tank and should not be confused with a tank leak.
Routine Preventative 
Maintenance
At least annually, a visual inspection should be made of 
the venting and air supply system, piping systems, main 
burner, and pilot burner. Check the water heater for the 
following:
•  Obstructions, damage, or deterioration in the venting 
system. Make sure the ventilation and combustion air 
supplies are not obstructed. 
•  Build up of soot and carbon on the main burner and 
pilot burner. Check for a soft blue flame.
•  Leaking or damaged water and gas piping.
•  Presence of flammable or corrosive materials in the 
installation area.
•  Presence of combustible materials near the water 
heater.
•  After servicing this water heater, check to make sure it 
is working properly. (See Operating Your Water Heater 
section of this manual.)
IMPORTANT: If you lack the necessary skills required to 
properly perform this visual inspection, you should not 
proceed, but get help from a qualified person.
Temperature and Pressure 
Relief Valve
Manually operate 
the temperature 
and pressure relief 
valve at least once 
a year to make 
sure it is working 
properly. To prevent 
water damage, 
the valve must be 
properly connected 
to a discharge line 
which terminates 
at an adequate 
drain. Standing clear of the outlet (discharged water may 
be hot), slowly lift and release the lever handle on the 
temperature and pressure relief valve to allow the valve to 
operate freely and return to its closed position. If the valve 
fails to completely reset and continues to release water, 
immediately shut off the manual gas control valve and the 
cold water inlet valve and call a qualified person.Figure 21
Temperature and Pressure
Relief Valve
Manual Relief
Valve
Discharge line to drain
Explosion Hazard
If the temperature and pressure relief valve 
is dripping or leaking, have a qualified 
person replace it.
Examples of a qualified person include:
licensed plumbers, authorized gas company 
personnel, and authorized service 
personnel.
Do not plug valve.
Do not remove valve.
Failure to follow these instructions can 
result in death, or explosion.
WARNING 
						

							24
Replacement Parts
Replacement parts may be ordered through your plumber 
or the local distributor. Parts will be shipped at prevailing 
prices and billed accordingly. When ordering replacement 
parts, always have the following information ready:
1.  model, serial, and product number
2.  type of gas
3. item number
4. parts description
See pages 30-31 for a list of available repair parts.
Removing the Burner Door Assembly
1.  Turn off the gas to the water heater at the manual 
shut-off valve (Figure 3).
2.  Turn the gas control/temperature knob to the “OFF” 
position (Figure 18).
3.  Remove the outer door.
4.  Remove the four screws (1/4” nut driver) securing the 
burner door assembly to 
the combustion chamber 
(Figure 23).
5.  Disconnect the pilot tube 
(7/16” wrench), the igniter 
wire from the igniter lead 
wire, and manifold tube  
(3/4” wrench) at the gas 
control valve/thermostat. 
Also disconnect the red (+) 
and white (-) thermopile 
wires from the gas control 
valve/thermostat. See 
Figures  22 & 23. 
6.  Grasp the manifold tube 
and push down slightly, 
carefully remove the burner door assembly from the 
burner compartment. 
 
 NOTE: Be sure not to damage internal parts. 
Natural Gas Burner (Ultra Low Nox)
Check the burner to see if it is dirty or clogged. The burner 
may be cleaned with soft paint brush (Figure 24). Do not 
use a wire brush or any tool that may damage the burner 
screen. Important: Do not use the burner if the burner screen 
is damaged. NOTE: Damage may be rips or holes in the 
burner screen. Discoloration is normal.
Igniter
WireRed
Wire
(Left 
 Side) Pilot 
Tube
Manifold 
Tube Igniter
Button Figure 22
Gas Control Valve/
Thermostat
Igniter
Lead
Wire
White
Wire
(Right
 Side)
VAC
Figure 23
Burner Door Assembly
Removal
Burner Door Screws (4) Manifold Component BlockBurner Door Pilot Tube Manifold Tube
ViewportThermopile 
Wire
Connections
Piezo Igniter ButtonGas Control Valve/Thermostat
VAC
Outer Door
Not Shown
Figure24
NaturalGas(Low Nox)
Burner Door Assembly
Burner
Use brush on this surface.Pilot Assembly 
						

							25
Replacing the Pilot/Thermopile Assembly
1.  Remove the burner door assembly as directed previously.
2. 
Lift the retainer clip straight up from the back of 
the manifold component block (using a flat-blade 
screwdriver), then remove the manifold component 
block from the burner door assembly
 (Figure 25).
3.  Locate and remove the phillips screw attaching the pilot to 
the pilot bracket, 
then pull the pilot/thermopile assembly 
(including the igniter wire) out of the burner door assembly.
  
4.  Using a 7/16” wrench, loosen the nut securing the pilot 
tube to the pilot assembly (right-hand threads).  
5.  Pull the pilot tube from the pilot assembly (Figure 26).
 IMPORTANT: Be careful not to bend or alter the position of  
  the pilot assembly components.
6. 
Using the old pilot tube as a guide, bend the new pilot 
tube to match the old one. Make only the bends closest 
to the pilot before going to the next step.
7.  Reconnect the pilot tube and tighten the nut securing it 
to the pilot assembly.  To prevent any bending of the pilot 
bracket, use pliers to hold the pilot assembly bracket 
while tightening the pilot nut. 
 IMPORTANT: Keep the pilot orifice in the pilot when 
making the connection. DO NOT operate the water heater 
without the pilot orifice installed.   
8.  Push the new pilot assembly connectors through the 
opening in the burner door (See Figure 25).  
9.  Attach the pilot assembly to the Burner Door Assembly.
10. 
Position the new thermopile wires through the top opening 
of the manifold component block (Figure 25). Be sure that 
the igniter wire is positioned through the middle opening 
of the manifold component block.  Position the pilot tube 
through the bottom opening of the manifold component 
block.
11.  See “Replacing the Burner Door Assembly”.
Figure 25 
Manifold Component
Block AssemblyThermopile Connectors
Manifold Component BlockPilot Tube Igniter Wire
Burner Door
Opening
Retainer Clip
Figure 26
Pilot/Thermopile Assembly
Pilot/Thermopile
Assembly Igniter
Connector
PilotThermopile Thermopile Connectors
Pilot Tube
(Ferrule Nut 
Not Shown)
result in death, explosion, or fire.
 
 
WARNING
Replace manifold component block if missing
or removed.
Replace door gasket if damaged.
Failure to follow these instructions can Replace viewport if glass is missing or
damaged.Tighten all burner door screws
securely.Explosion Hazard
Remove any fiberglass between gasket
and combustion chamber. 
						

							26 1.  Check the door gasket for damage or imbedded debris 
prior to installation.
2.  Inspect the viewport for damage and replace as required.
3.  Insert the burner door assembly into the burner 
compartment. 
4.  Inspect the door gasket and make sure there is no 
fiberglass insulation between the gasket and the 
combustion chamber.
5.  Replace the four screws which secure the burner door 
assembly to the combustion chamber and tighten 
securely. There should be no space between the 
gasket part of the burner door and combustion 
chamber. IMPORTANT: Do not operate the water heater 
if the door gasket does not create a seal between the 
burner door and the combustion chamber.
6.  Reconnect the manifold tubing (3/4” wrench), pilot 
tubing (7/16” wrench), temperature sensor wires, and 
thermopile wires to the gas control valve/thermostat. 
(See Figure 22 for the correct position of the thermopile 
wires.)  Do not cross-thread or apply any thread sealant 
to the fittings.    
7.  Reconnect the igniter wire.
8.  Turn the gas supply on and refer to the “Lighting 
Instructions” on page 18.
9.  Check for leaks by brushing on an approved 
noncorrosive leak detection solution. Bubbles forming 
indicate a leak. Correct any leak found. IMPORTANT: 
All leaks must be fixed immediately.
10.  Replace the outer door.
result in death, explosion, or fire.
Replacing the Burner Door Assembly
 
 
WARNING
Replace manifold component block if missing
or removed.
Replace door gasket if damaged.
Failure to follow these instructions can Replace viewport if glass is missing or
damaged.Tighten all burner door screws
securely.Explosion Hazard
Remove any fiberglass between gasket
and combustion chamber.
Figure 28A
Combustion Chamber
Door GasketCombustion Chamber
Figure 28B
Close-up inside view of the combustion chamber
Combustion Chamber
Piezoelectric Igniter System
The piezoelectric igniter system consists of the igniter 
button, electrode, and wire.  The pilot is ignited by an 
electric spark generated when the igniter button is pressed.  
(See Figure 29). Use only factory authorized piezoelectric 
igniter parts for replacement.
Testing the Igniter System
Turn off the gas to the water heater at the manual gas shut-
off valve. Watch the electrode tip while activating the igniter. 
A visible spark should jump from the electrode. To avoid 
shock, do not touch the burner or any metal part on the 
pilot or pilot assembly. If no spark is visible, check the wire 
connections and make sure the electrode is not broken. 
Replace the igniter if defective. Dirt and rust on the pilot or 
electrode tip can prevent the igniter spark. Wipe clean with 
a damp cloth and dry completely. Rust can be removed 
from the electrode tip and metal surfaces by lightly sanding 
with an emery cloth or fine grit sandpaper.
VAC
Pilot/Thermopile Bracket
(Opposite Side)Electrode
Thermopile Pilot
Igniter ButtonWire to Electrode Figure 29
Gas Igniter Assembly 
						

							27
Removing and Replacing the Gas 
Control Valve/Thermostat
IMPORTANT: The gas control valve/thermostat is a standard 
valve with wire leads that connect to the thermopile. 
Removing the Gas Control Valve/Thermostat:
1.  Turn the gas control/temperature knob  to the “OFF” 
position (Figure 18).
2.  Turn off the gas at the manual shut-off valve on the gas 
supply pipe (Figure 3).
3.  Drain the water heater. Refer to the section of “Draining 
and Flushing” and follow the procedure.
4.  Disconnect the igniter wire from the igniter lead wire. 
Disconnect the temperature sensor wire. Disconnect 
the red (+) and white (-)  thermopile wires.  Disconnect  
the pilot tube (7/16” wrench) and manifold tube (3/4” 
wrench) at the gas control valve/thermostat  (Figure 22).  
5.  Refer to “Gas Piping” (Figure 3) and disconnect the 
ground joint union in the gas piping. Disconnect the 
remaining pipe from the gas control valve/thermostat.
6.  To remove the gas control valve/thermostat, thread a 4” 
section of gas pipe into the inlet and use it to turn the 
gas control valve/thermostat (counterclockwise.) Do not 
use pipe wrench or equivalent to grip body.  Damage 
may result, causing leaks. Do not insert any sharp objects into the inlet or outlet connections. Damage to 
the gas control valve/thermostat may result.
Gas Control Valve/Thermostat:
To replace the gas control valve/thermostat, reassemble 
in reverse order. When replacing the gas control valve/
thermostat, thread a section of 4” gas pipe into the inlet and 
use it to turn the gas control valve/thermostat (clockwise.) 
DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN, damage may result. 
•  Be sure to use approved Teflon® tape or pipe joint 
compound on the gas piping connections and fitting on 
the back of the gas control valve that screws into tank.
•  Be sure to remove the pilot ferrule nut from the new gas 
control valve/thermostat.
•  Turn the gas supply on and check for leaks. Test the 
water heater by brushing on an approved noncorrosive 
leak detection solution. Bubbles forming indicate a leak. 
Correct any leak found. 
•  Be sure tank is completely filled with water before 
lighting and activating the water heater. Follow the 
“Lighting Instructions” on page 18.
•  If additional information is required, reference the 
number on the cover of this manual for service information.
Operational Checklist
TROUBLESHOOTING CHART
4.  No leaks at pilot and manifold connection.
5.  Manifold door screws securely tightened. 
        1.  Manifold gasket properly sealed.
2.  Viewport not damaged or cracked.
3.  Manifold component block properly installed.
PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE(S) CORRECTIVE ACTION
BURNER WILL NOT IGNITE 1.  Pilot not lit
2.  Thermostat set too low
3. No gas
4.  Dirt in the gas lines
5.  Pilot line clogged
6.  Main burner line clogged
7. Non-functioning thermopile
8. Non-functioning thermostat
9.  Heater installed in a confined area1. Light pilot
2.  Turn temp. dial to desired temperature
3.  Check with gas utility company
4.  Notify utility-install trap in gas line
5.  Clean, locate source and correct
6.  Clean, locate source and correct
7. Replace thermopile
8. Replace thermostat
9.  Provide fresh air ventilation
SMELLY WATER 1.  Sulfides in the water 1.  Replace the anode with a special anode
BURNER FLAME 
YELLOW-LAZY1.  Insufficient secondary air
2.  Low gas pressure
3. Flue clogged
4.  Main burner line clogged
5.  Obstruction in main burner orifice1.  Provide ventilation to water heater
2.  Check with gas utility company
3.  Clean, locate source and correct
4.  Clean, locate source and correct
5.  Clean or replace orifice
PILOT WILL NOT LIGHT OR 
REMAIN LIT1. Non-functioning igniter
2.  Thermopile connection loose
3.  Air in gas line
4.  Proper Lighting Sequence not followed. 
Gas Control /Temperature Knob was not 
held in for sufficient time
5.  Low gas pressure
6. No gas
7.  Dirt in gas lines
8. Cold drafts
9.  Thermostat ECO switch open
10.  Pilot line or orifice clogged
11. Non-functioning thermopile1.  Replace igniter pilot assembly
2.  Seat connector firmly in socket
3.  Bleed the air from the gas line
4.  Do not attempt to relight if the red light is lit, 
and the pilot flame is not visible through the 
view port. Wait until the red light is no longer 
lit, then follow lighting instructions on the water 
heater
5.  Check with gas utility company
6.  Check with gas utility company
7.  Notify utility-install dirt trap in gas line
8.  Locate source and correct
9. Replace thermostat
10.  Clean, locate source and correct
11. Replace thermopile 
						

							28
PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE(S) CORRECTIVE ACTION
HIGH OPERATION COSTS 1.  Thermostat set too high
2.  Sediment or lime in tank
3.  Water heater too small for job
4.  Wrong piping connections
5. Leaking faucets
6. Gas leaks
7.  Wasted hot water
8.  Long runs of exposed piping
9.  Hot water piping in exposed wall1.  Set temperature dial to lower setting
2.  Drain/flush-provide water treatment if needed
3.  Install adequate heater
4.  Correct piping-dip tube must be in cold inlet
5. Repair faucets
6.  Check with utility-repair at once
7. Advise customer
8. Insulate piping
9. Insulate piping
INSUFFICIENT HOT WATER 1.  Thermostat set too low
2.  Sediment or lime in tank
3.  Water heater too small
4.  Wrong piping connections
5. Leaking faucets
6.  Wasted hot water
7.  Long runs of exposed piping
8.  Hot water piping in outside wall
9.  Low gas pressure1.  Turn temperature dial to desired setting
2.  Drain/flush-provide water treatment if needed
3.  Install adequate heater
4.  Correct piping-dip tube must be in cold inlet
5 Repair faucets
6. Advise customer
7. Insulate piping
8. Insulate piping
9.  Check with gas utility company
SLOW HOT WATER 
RECOVERY1.  Insufficient secondary air
2. Flue clogged
3.  Low gas pressure
4. Improper calibration
5.  Thermostat set too low
6.  Water heater too small
7.  Wrong piping connections
8.  Wasted hot water1.  Provide ventilation to water heater. Check flue 
way, flue baffle, and burner
2.  Clean flue, locate source and correct
3.  Check with gas utility company
4. Replace thermostat
5.  Turn temperature dial to desired setting
6.  Install adequate heater
7.  Correct piping-dip tube must be in cold inlet
8. Advise customer
DRIP FROM RELIEF VALVE 1.  Excessive water pressure
2. Heater stacking
3.  Closed water system1.  Use a pressure reducing valve and relief valve
2.  Lower the thermostat setting
3.  See “Closed System/Thermal Expansion”
THERMOSTAT FAILS TO 
SHUT-OFF1.  Thermostat not functioning properly
2. Improper calibration1. Replace thermostat
2. Replace thermostat
COMBUSTION ODORS 1.  Insufficient secondary air
2. Flue clogged1.  Provide ventilation to water heater. Check flue
  way, flue baffle, and burner
2.  Clean, locate source and correct
SMOKING AND  CARBON 
FORMATION (SOOTING)1.  Insufficient secondary air
2.  Low gas pressure
3. Flue clogged
4.  Thermostat not functioning properly
5.  Burner flame yellow-lazy1.  Provide ventilation to water heater. Check flue 
way, flue baffle, burner
2.  Check with gas utility company
3.  Clean, locate source and correct
4. Replace thermostat
5.  See “Burner Flame Yellow-Lazy”
CONDENSATION 1.  Temperature setting too low 1.  Increase the temperature setting
BURNER FLAME FLOATS 
AND LIFTS  OFF PORTS1.  Orifice too large
2.  High gas pressure
3. Flue clogged
4. Cold drafts1.  Replace with correct orifice
2.  Check with gas utility company
3.  Clean flue and burner-locate source and correct
4.  Locate source and correct
BURNER FLAME TOO HIGH 1.  Orifice too large 1.  Replace with correct orifice
FLAME BURNS AT ORIFICE 1.  Thermostat not functioning properly
2.  Low gas pressure1. Replace thermostat
2.  Check with gas utility company
PILOT FLAME
TOO SMALL1.  Pilot line or orifice clogged
2.  Low gas pressure1.  Clean, locate source and correct
2.  Check with gas utility company 
						

							29
STATUS LIGHT CODE TROUBLESHOOTING CHART 
LED STATUS PROBLEM CORRECTIVE ACTION
0 FLASHES (LED NOT LIT) Pilot light is not lit. Not enough 
power (millivolts) to keep it lit.Follow the lighting instructions on the front of the 
water heater and record any diagnostic codes. 
See Diagnostic Status Light Code section.
1 FLASH (EVERY 3 SECONDS) Normal operation. No corrective action necessary.
2 FLASHES Insufficient power (millivolts) to the 
gas control valve/thermostat.1.  Check all wiring connections. If problem 
persists proceed to step 2.
2.  Replace the thermopile. If you feel 
uncomfortable with this procedure contact a 
qualified person.
4 FLASHES High water temperature has 
activated the over heat sensor.Replace the gas control valve/thermostat. If you 
feel uncomfortable with this procedure contact a 
qualified person.
5 FLASHES Sensor failure Replace the gas control valve/thermostat. If you 
feel uncomfortable with this procedure contact a 
qualified person.
7 FLASHES Gas Control Valve/Thermostat 
failure.Replace the gas control valve/thermostat. If you 
feel uncomfortable with this procedure contact a 
qualified person.
8 FLASHES This condition only appears if the 
gas control/temperature knob has 
been turned off and the thermopile 
continued to produce electric 
power.  This condition can occur 
if the thermopile does not cool 
down as quickly as expected when 
the unit is shut off.  This condition 
can also occur if the gas control/
temperature knob has been turned 
off and the pilot continues to 
operate because the pilot valve is 
stuck in the open position.Make sure that the gas control valve/thermostat 
knob is set to OFF.  Wait one minute. Remove 
the outer door.  Look through the sight glass for 
a pilot flame. If a pilot flame is observed with the 
gas control valve/thermostat knob set to the OFF 
position, the pilot valve is stuck open. Turn the main 
gas supply OFF. Replace the gas control valve/
thermostat.  If you feel uncomfortable with this 
procedure contact a qualified person. 
If the pilot flame is not observed when the gas 
control valve/thermostat knob is set to the OFF 
position, wait 10 minutes for the thermopile to cool, 
then attempt to relight the pilot by following the 
lighting instructions on the water heater’s label. If 
this condition returns, replace the gas control valve/
thermostat.  If you feel uncomfortable with this 
procedure contact a qualified person. 
						

							30
REPAIR PARTS ILLUSTRATION
Item
 No.Parts Description
1 VENT CAP ASSEMBLY
2 OUTER WALL PLATE
3 INNER WALL PLATE
4 FLEX VENT PIPE (WITH CLAMPS)
5 UPPER AIR  BOX
6 4” TO 3” REDUCER
7 DRAIN VALVE
8 FLUE BAFFLE
9 DIP TUBE
10 LOWER AIR  BOX
11 SNAP IN PLUG
12 TEMPERATURE & PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE
13 GAS CONTROL VALVE/THERMOSTAT
14* MANIFOLD DOOR GASKET
15 FLANGE
16 DRAIN VALVE
17 ANODE ROD
18* VIEWPORT
19 DOOR SCREW
20* BURNER DOOR ASSEMBLY (NAT. GAS)
21* MANIFOLD COMPONENT BLOCK
22 OUTER DOOR
23 OPTIONAL VENT GUARD (SEE PAGE 12, -KIT # 6907245)
*Pictured on next page.
When ordering repair parts always give the following 
information:
1.  Model, serial, and product number
2.  Type of gas
3. Item number
4. Parts description
Repair Parts List
LEGEND
Special anode rod (see page 22)
Temperature and Pressure Relief Valve is required, 
but may not be factory installed
54
1
2
7
12
6
17
18
2119
22
1920
14
13
9
11
10
11
1615
8
3