Brother Quattro 3 User Manual

							SEWING THE STITCHES
Utility Stitches
99
3
Dart Seam
aSelect   and attach presser foot “J”.
bSew a reverse stitch at the beginning of the 
dart and then sew from the wide end to the 
other end without stretching the fabric.
* If automatic reinforcement stitching is preset, a reinforcement stitch will automatically be sewn at 
the beginning of sewing.
a Basting
cCut the thread at the end leaving 50 mm 
(approx. 1-15/16 inches), and then tie both 
ends together.
* Do not sew a reverse stitch at the end. 
dInsert the ends of the thread into the dart 
with a hand sewing needle.
eIron the dart to one side so that it is flat.
Gathering
Use on waists of skirts, sleeves of shirts, etc.
aSelect a straight stitch and attach presser 
foot “J”.
bSet the stitch length to 4.0 mm (approx. 
3/16 inch) and the thread tension to 
approximately 2.0 (weaker tension).
* If you press   after pressing   
and then  , the stitch length will be set 
automatically to 4.0 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) and the 
thread tension will be automatically set to 2.0. 
						

							SEWING THE STITCHES
100
cPull the bobbin and upper threads out by 
50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches) (see page 
55).
aUpper thread
b Bobbin thread
c About 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches)
dSew two rows of straight stitches parallel to 
the seam line, then trim excess thread 
leaving 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches).
aSeam line
b 10 to 15 mm (approx. 3/8 inch to 9/16 inch)
c About 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches)
ePull the bobbin threads to obtain the 
desired amount of gather, then tie the 
threads.
fSmooth the gathers by ironing them.
gSew on the seam line and remove the 
basting stitch.
Flat Fell Seam
Use for reinforcing seams and finishing edges 
neatly.
aSelect   and attach presser foot “J”.
bSew the finish line, then cut half of the seam 
allowance from the side on which the flat 
fell seam will lie.
* When the automatic thread cutting and automatic 
reinforcement stitching are preset, reinforcement 
stitches will be sewn automatically at the beginning 
of sewing. Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” 
button to sew a reinforcement stitch and trim the 
thread automatically at the end of sewing.
a About 12 mm (approx. 1/2 inch)
b Wrong side
cSpread the fabric out along the finish line.
aFinish line
b Wrong side
dLay both seam allowances on the side of the 
shorter seam (cut seam) and iron them.
aWrong side 
						

							SEWING THE STITCHES
Utility Stitches
101
3
eFold the longer seam allowance around the 
shorter one, and sew the edge of the fold.
aWrong side
Finished flat fell seam
aSurface
Pintuck
aMark along the folds on the wrong side of 
the fabric.
aWrong side
bTurn the fabric and iron the folded parts 
only.
aSurface
cSelect   and attach presser foot “I”.
dSew a straight stitch along the fold.
* When the automatic thread cutting and automatic 
reinforcement stitching are preset, reinforcement 
stitches will be sewn automatically at the beginning 
of sewing. Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” 
button to sew a reinforcement stitch and trim the 
thread automatically at the end of sewing.
a Width for pintuck
b Wrong side
c Surface
eIron the folds in the same direction. 
						

							SEWING THE STITCHES
102
Zigzag Stitches 
Zigzag stitches are useful for overcasting, appliqué, patchwork, and many other applications. 
Select a stitch, and attach presser foot “J”. 
If the stitch which you select has a double mark “ ” at the top of the key display, you can sew reverse 
stitches by holding the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button.
If the stitch which you select has a dot mark “ ” at the top of the key display, you can sew reinforcement 
stitches by holding the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button (see page 74).
aSelect a stitch. 
bAttach presser foot “J”. 
■Overcasting (Using a Zigzag Stitch) 
Sew the overcasting along the edge of the fabric 
while positioning the right-hand side needle drop 
point just outside the edge of the fabric.
a Needle drop position 
■Appliqué (Using a Zigzag Stitch) 
Attach the appliqué material using a temporary 
spray adhesive or basting, and then sew it.
* Sew a zigzag stitch while positioning the right-hand 
side needle drop point just outside the edge of the 
fabric.
StitchStitch namePresser 
footApplications
Stitch width 
[mm (inch)]Stitch length  [mm (inch)]Tw in  
needle
AutoManualAutoManual
Zigzag stitch For overcasting, mending. 
Reverse stitch is sewn while 
pressing “Reverse/
Reinforcement Stitch” button.3.5
(1/8) 0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4) 1.4
(1/16) 0.0 - 4.0
(0 - 3/16) OK
( J )
Zigzag stitch For overcasting, mending. 
Reinforcement stitch is sewn 
while pressing “Reverse/
Reinforcement Stitch” button.3.5
(1/8) 0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4) 1.4
(1/16) 0.0 - 4.0
(0 - 3/16) OK
( J )
Zigzag stitch (right) Start from right needle position, 
zigzag sew at left.3.5
(1/8) 2.5 - 5.0
(3/32 - 3/16) 1.4
(1/16) 0.3 - 4.0
(1/64 - 3/16) OK
( J )
Zigzag stitch (left) Start from left needle position, 
zigzag sew at right.3.5
(1/8) 2.5 - 5.0
(3/32 - 3/16) 1.4
(1/16) 0.3 - 4.0
(1/64 - 3/16) OK
( J ) 
						

							SEWING THE STITCHES
Utility Stitches
103
3
■Patchwork (for Crazy Quilt) 
Turn back the desired width of fabric and position it 
over the lower fabric, then sew so that the stitch 
bridges both pieces of fabric.
■Sewing Curves (Using a Zigzag 
Stitch) 
Shorten the stitch length setting to obtain a fine 
stitch. Sew slowly, keeping the seams parallel with 
the fabric edge as you guide the fabric around the 
curve.
■Cord Guide Bobbin Cover (Using a 
Zigzag Stitch)
aRemove the bobbin cover from the machine 
(see page 54).
bThread the gimp thread through the hole in 
the cord guide bobbin cover from top to 
bottom. Position the thread in the notch at 
the back of the cord guide bobbin cover.
a Notch
b Gimp thread
cSnap the cord guide bobbin cover into 
place, making sure that the gimp thread can 
be fed freely. 
* Make sure there are no restrictions when feeding the 
thread.
dSet the zigzag width from 2.0-2.5 mm 
(approx. 1/16 - 3/32 inch).
eAttach presser foot “N”.
fPosition the fabric right side up on top of 
the cord and place the cord to the rear of 
the machine under the presser foot.
aFabric (right side)
b Gimp thread
gLower the presser foot and start sewing to 
make a decorative finish. 
						

							SEWING THE STITCHES
104
Elastic Zigzag Stitches 
Use elastic zigzag stitches for tape attaching, overcasting, darning, or a wide variety of other uses.
aSelect a stitch. 
bAttach presser foot “J”. 
■Tape Attaching 
Stretch the tape flat. While stretching the tape flat, 
sew the tape to the fabric.
a Tape 
■Overcasting 
Use this stitch to sew overcasting on the edge of 
stretch fabrics. Sew the overcasting along the edge 
of the fabric while positioning the right-hand side 
needle drop point just outside the edge of the fabric.
StitchStitch namePresser 
footApplications
Stitch width [mm (inch)]Stitch length  [mm (inch)]Tw in  
needle
AutoManualAutoManual
2 steps elastic 
zigzag Overcasting (medium weight 
and stretch fabrics), tape and 
elastic5.0
(3/16) 1.5 - 7.0
(1/16 - 1/4) 1.0
(1/16) 0.2 - 4.0
(1/64 - 1/16) OK
( J )
2 steps elastic 
zigzag Overcasting (medium weight 
and stretch fabrics), tape and 
elastic5.0
(3/16) 1.5 - 7.0
(1/16 - 1/4) 1.0
(1/16) 0.2 - 4.0
(1/64 - 1/16) OK
( J )
3 steps elastic 
zigzag Overcasting (medium, 
heavyweight and stretch fabrics), 
tape and elastic5.0
(3/16) 1.5 - 7.0
(1/16 - 1/4) 1.0
(1/16) 0.2 - 4.0
(1/64 - 1/16) OK
( J ) 
						

							SEWING THE STITCHES
Utility Stitches
105
3
Overcasting 
Use for the edge of seams in skirts or trousers, and the edge of all cuttings. Use presser foot “G”, presser 
foot “J”, or the side cutter attachment depending on the kind of overcasting stitch you select. 
■Overcasting Using Presser Foot “G” 
aSelect a stitch and attach presser foot “G”.
bLower the presser foot so that the presser 
foot guide is set flush against the edge of the 
fabric.
cSew along the presser foot guide.
a Guide
StitchStitch namePresser 
footApplications
Stitch width [mm (inch)]Stitch length  [mm (inch)]Tw in  
needle
AutoManualAutoManual
Overcasting stitch Reinforcing of light and medium 
weight fabrics3.5
(1/8) 2.5 - 5.0
(3/32 - 3/16) 2.0
(1/16) 1.0 - 4.0
(1/16 - 3/16) NO
Overcasting stitch Reinforcing of heavyweight 
fabric5.0
(3/16) 2.5 - 5.0
(3/32 - 3/16) 2.5
(3/32) 1.0 - 4.0
(1/16 - 3/16) NO
Overcasting stitch Reinforcing of medium, 
heavyweight and easily friable 
fabrics or decorative stitching.5.0
(3/16) 3.5 - 5.0
(1/8 - 3/16) 2.5
(3/32) 1.0 - 4.0
(1/16 - 3/16) NO
 CAUTION
 After the stitch width is adjusted, rotate the 
handwheel toward you (counterclockwise). 
Check that the needle does not touch the 
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser foot, 
the needle may break and cause injury.
a The needle should not touch the center bar
 If the presser foot is raised to its highest level, 
the needle may strike the presser foot. 
						

							SEWING THE STITCHES
106
■Overcasting Using Presser Foot “J” 
aSelect a stitch and attach presser foot “J”.bSew with the needle dropping slightly off 
the edge of the fabric.
a Needle drop position 
StitchStitch namePresser 
footApplications
Stitch width [mm (inch)]Stitch length  [mm (inch)]Tw in  
needle
AutoManualAutoManual
Overcasting stitch Reinforced seaming of stretch 
fabric5.0
(3/16) 0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 9/32) 2.5
(3/32) 0.5 - 4.0
(1/32 - 3/16) OK
( J )
Overcasting stitch Reinforcing of medium stretch 
fabric and heavyweight fabric, 
decorative stitching5.0
(3/16) 0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 9/32) 2.5
(3/32) 0.5 - 4.0
(1/32 - 3/16) OK
( J )
Overcasting stitch Reinforcement of stretch fabric 
or decorative stitching4.0
(3/16) 0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4) 4.0
(3/16) 1.0 - 4.0
(1/16 - 3/16) OK
( J )
Overcasting stitch Stretch knit seam
5.0
(3/16) 0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4) 4.0
(3/16) 1.0 - 4.0
(1/16 - 3/16) NO
Single diamond 
overcast Reinforcement and seaming 
stretch fabric
6.0
(15/ 64) 1.0 - 7.0
(1/16 - 1/4) 3.0
(1/8) 1.0 - 4.0
(1/16 - 3/16) OK
( J )
Single diamond 
overcast Reinforcement of stretch fabric
6.0
(15/
64) 1.0 - 7.0
(1/16 - 1/4) 1.8
(1/16) 1.0 - 4.0
(1/16 - 3/16) OK
( J ) 
						

							SEWING THE STITCHES
Utility Stitches
107
3
■Overcasting Using the Side Cutter
By using the side cutter, you can do overcasting while cutting the fabric.
aSelect a stitch.
bFollow the steps on page 65 to remove the 
presser foot.
cThread the needle (see page 57).
dPosition the fork on the side cutter’s 
operating lever onto the needle clamp 
screw.
a Needle clamp screw
b Operating lever
 CAUTION
 Recommended stitches are noted “S” in the lower right corner, therefore sure to only select one of these 
stitches listed below. Using another stitch may cause the needle to hit the presser foot and break, possibly 
causing injury.
Note
 Thread the needle manually when using the side cutter, or only attach the side cutter after threading the needle using the “Automatic Threading” button.
StitchStitch namePresser 
footApplications
Stitch width [mm (inch)]Stitch length  [mm (inch)]Tw in  
needle
AutoManualAutoManual
With side cutter Straight stitch while cutting 
fabrics0.0
(0) 0.0 - 2.5
(0 - 3/32) 2.5
(3/32) 0.2 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16) NO
With side cutter Zigzag stitch while cutting fabrics
3.5
(1/8) 3.5 - 5.0
(1/8 - 3/16) 1.4
(1/16) 0.0 - 4.0
(0 - 3/16) NO
With side cutter Overcasting stitch while cutting 
fabrics3.5
(1/8) 3.5 - 5.0
(1/8 - 3/16) 2.0
(1/16) 1.0 - 4.0
(1/16 - 3/16) NO
With side cutter Overcasting stitch while cutting 
fabrics5.0
(3/16) 3.5 - 5.0
(1/8 - 3/16) 2.5
(3/32) 1.0 - 4.0
(1/16 - 3/16) NO
With side cutter Overcasting stitch while cutting 
fabrics5.0
(3/16) 3.5 - 5.0
(1/8 - 3/16) 2.5
(3/32) 1.0 - 4.0
(1/16 - 3/16) NO
Memo
 Make sure that the fork of the operating 
lever is set onto the needle screw firmly. 
						

							SEWING THE STITCHES
108
ePosition the side cutter so that the side 
cutter pin is aligned with the notch in the 
presser foot holder, and then lower the 
presser foot.
aNotch in presser foot holder
b Pin
→ The side cutter is attached.
fRaise the presser foot and pull out a long 
section of the upper thread. Pass it below 
the presser foot and pull it out in the fabric 
feed direction.
aPresser foot 
b Upper thread
gMake a cut of approximately 20 mm 
(approx. 3/4 inch) in the fabric.
a20 mm (approx. 3/4 inch) 
hPosition the fabric so that the right side of 
the cut is on top of the guide plate and the 
left side of the cut is underneath the presser 
foot.
aGuide plate (lower knife)
b Presser foot
c Upper thread
Memo
 If the fabric is not positioned correctly, the 
fabric will not be cut.