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Corbin RFJM-22 Rimfire Case Jacket Instruction Manual

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    oRFJM-22R 22LR to 224 caliber (5.56mm)
    for use in a reloading press...
    oRFJM-22M22LR to 224 caliber (5.56mm)
    for use in Corbin Swage presses
    oRFJM-6MR22LR to 243 caliber (6mm) for use
    in a reloading press...
    oRFJM-6MM22LR to 243 calbier (6mm) for
    use in Corbin Swage presses
    4.   Finish the draw. If you have a .224 jacket maker, the punch is one straight
    piece and will go through the die. If you have a .243 jacket maker, the punch
    is made with two diameters, and will NOT go through the die. To finish a .224
    jacket, you must push it all the way through the die and out the top. To do this,
    lower the ram and see if the jacket comes of in the die, or stays with the
    punch. If the jacket stays with the punch, it will be ejected by the tube and
    disk assembly on the down stroke, and you can push it through later with a
    second operation. If it stays in the die, you can put the push rod into the
    jacket, and shove on the end of this short (1-inch) rod to push the jacket all
    the way through the ring die insert. It may not come out the top yet, but it is
    drawn. The next jackets will lift it out. Catch the push rod so it doesn’t drop on
    the floor when you lower the ram.  If you have a .243 set, you can use the
    knock out rod and a small mallet or block of wood to tap the jacket back out
    of the die (or, it may come back with the punch and be ejected automatically).
    The .243 jackets are actually a kind of “pre-form” jacket. They are not brought to
    .243 caliber in this operation. The mouth is flared by pressing over the punch
    angle joining the two punch diameters, so that it will seal the bore of the core
    seating die and hold the lead pressure during core seating, which will expand the
    entire jacket to the correct diameter (just like blowing up a balloon, but with thou-
    sands of pounds of pressure). Corbin Swage Lube is recommended to increase
    die and punch life and lower the force required to draw the jackets.
    Discard any cases which are bulged from oversized chambers, which have bad
    firing pin cuts or split mouths, or have bad corrosion. Sort your jackets to that your
    groups are fired using the same headstamps, and you will probably find the accu-
    racy is improved! The thin rimfire cases require a slightly larger core seating punch
    than a commercial jacket. They are very explosive and make excellent varmint
    bullets. Accuracy is best if the velocity is kept under about 3,200 fps with most
    rifles. Because the jackets are very thin, they don’t like being fired at higher speeds!
    However, with reasonable velocities, the .22 rimfire case jacket can give you a
    virtually unlimited supply of free bullets—just add scrap lead, swage them into
    quality bullets using Corbin swage dies, and you can avoid the cost of commercial
    bullets forever!
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    Draw
    Punch (-
    R)Jacket K.O.
    Rod
    Draw
    Punch (-M) Draw Die
    (4-part assembly)
    Ejector tube
    and disk
    Helper rod
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    World Leader in Bullet Swaging Technology Since 1975!
    PO Box 2659
    600 Industrial Circle
    White City, OR 97503  USA
    Phone Mon-Thur. 9am-5pm: 541-826-5211
    FAX: 24-hr 541-826-8669
    E-Mail: [email protected]
    Internet web pages: http://www.shooters.com/corbin
    Quality .224 or 6mm jackets using fired .22 cases!
     Easy on the bore!  Accurate!  Free materials!
    Rimfire Case Jacket Maker Kit
    -or-  
    						
    							The Corbin RFJM-22M
    Rimfire Jacket-Maker Die:
    K.O. Punch (used to push a jacket out of the die,
    when needed to push out a jacket).
    Die Assembly, consists of the threaded die holder
    body (7/8-14 TPI), which screws into the press
    head, the  ring die  insert which does the actual
    drawing, the spacer tube, and the retaining bushing
    (hexagon head, screws into the top of the die body
    and presses against the spacer tube, which in turn
    holds the ring die insert).
    Ejection disk and tube assembly (press fit together,
    slips over the punch and strips the jackets off the
    punch on the down stroke of the press). Your press
    ram must fit inside this tube in order to use the die
    set on  a reloading press.
    Push rod, which can be used to finish pushing the
    jacket through the die, after using the punch alone
    to unfold the rim at the end of the stroke. The rod
    adds about an inch to the travel of the ram, suffi-
    cient to push the de-headed case through the  ring
    die insert. In the 6mm version, the jacket is NOT
    pushed all the way through the die: it is ejected
    after unfolding the head and used at original
    diameter (it expands in the core seating operation).
    Punch, used to push the case into the die just far
    enough to draw out the rim into a straight section
    without folds or creases. This is done at the end of
    the press stroke. The push rod is the put into the
    case and used to shove the case the rest of the
    way through the die (for .224 jackets only).
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    How to use the jacket maker sets:
    1.  Clean and sort the cases. Separate them into groups by headstamp for
    the best accuracy. Throw away any that are punched through at the firing pin
    dent, or have been smashed flat. Boil the cases in hot water with detergent
    and a couple of tablespoons of vinegar to remove corrosion and dust. Rinse
    them in clean hot water and spread them out on an old towel to dry.
    2.   Draw the cases. Screw the die into the top of the press (hex nut faces
    away from the ram). Bottom of the die should be from flush with the press
    frame to about 1/8-inch below it.  Insert the punch into the press ram (screws
    into Corbin rams, slips sideways into regular loading press rams like a shell
    holder). Corbin CSP-1 press must be in the LONG STROKE or reloading
    position of the ram and toggle, not the short swaging stroke. With a film of
    Corbin Swage Lube on your fingers, touch a small amount of lube on the
    punch, and on the O.D. of the case. Put the case over the punch, and push it
    into the die about 1/4 inch (the press should run out of stroke at this point).
    Adjust the die so that the drawing is done at the END of the press stroke.
    Only about 1/4-inch of the case is drawn down in this operation.
    3.   Anneal the cases. The cases must be brought to a temperature sufficient
    to stress relieve and soften the brass, without burning it. Generally, if the
    cases are brought to a barely visible red glow in a dimly lit room, they were
    hot enough to avoid folding at the tip when you form the ogive later. A self-
    cleaning oven generally gets hot enough. Spread the cleaned cases out on
    an old cookie sheet and “bake” in the self-clean cycle of your electric range,
    or heat the cases by using a propane torch to quickly bring them to a red heat
    visible in dim light. Failure to anneal only means that the ogive may fold over
    instead of drawing smoothly to a point. Let them cool to room temperature.
    .224 (5.56mm)
    PUNCH-M, and PUNCH-R 6mm (.243)
    PUNCH-R, and PUNCH-M
    You can convert
    from .224 to .243
    or vice versa just
    by obtaining the
    correct punch to
    fit your press
    ram! Type -R
    punches fit the
    reloading press,
    type -M fit
    Corbin presses
    . -M -M
    -R -R 
    						
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