Dillon Precision SL 900 Instruction Manual

							42
9. Move the roller handle down and then back
up to its rest position. Remove the hull from the
shellplate by pressing down on the locator
button. Fig. 15 Pour the powder back into the
clear powder hopper.
10. Repeat these two steps a minimum of four
times to make sure you are receiving a uniform
powder charge.
11. Weigh the fifth powder charge.
12. Adjust as needed.
13. Now that you have determined the powder
charge, move to Station 3 for wad and shot insertion.
14. Get a supply of wads.
15. Use the same hull with powder in it. At
Station three, insert the wad into the wad swing arm
and move the roller handle down. Fig. 16
16. Return the roller handle to its rest position
and remove the hull from the shellplate by pressing
down on the locator button. Pour the shot back into
the shot hopper. 17. Repeat these steps 4 times to make sure you
are receiving a uniform shot charge.
18. Weigh the fifth shot charge. Adjust as needed
to the desired weight.
At Stations 4 and 5, the starter crimp die and
final seat/crimp functions are performed.
19. Using the same hull with shot in it in Station
4, move the roller handle down and then back to its
rest position, the formed and folded hull has just
completed Station 4 and has advanced to Station 5.
Fig. 17
20. Once again, move the roller handle down. As
you return the roller handle to its rest position,
you'll see the completed round advance and move
out of the machine.
21. Inspect the completed round. 
22. Before you begin reloading, review all
assemblies to assure yourself that all the screws you
touched are tight. You are now ready to begin your
reloading session.
Once you’ve started loading, Fig. 18shows a full
shellplate with all functions performed.
Fig. 18
Fig. 17
Fig. 16
Fig. 15 
						

							43
A 20 gauge conversion package (#22138),
includes the following items:
1.) A complete toolhead assembly with dies
installed; Station 1, collet sizer & depriming pin
assembly. Station 2, powder die with 20 gauge
powder funnel and retaining clip. Station 3,
complete shot dispenser assembly with 1/2 oz – 1.0
oz shot bar and 20 gauge shot drop tube. Station 4,
starter crimp star/radius form insert. Station 5, new
spring/over floating taper crimp die.
2.) A 20 gauge conversion kit box containing:
(a) one 20 gauge shellplate (#10612), (b) three
locator buttons (#16753) with locator rings
(#10602) and springs (#17126), (c) one yellow
station 2 locator insert (#10603), (d) two yellow
wad guides (1 spare - #10610), (e) one 20 gauge
casefeed sleeve assembly (#22128). Fig. 1
CONVERTING THEMACHINE
The following is a step by step routine to use for
converting your machine to reload other gauges.
Refer to your SL 900 reloading manual as needed.
1. Drain the shot via the shot dispenser drain.
Hint, use an old coffee can, widemouth water jug or
shot bag to catch the shot.
2. Disconnect the return rods on both the shot
and powder dispensers.
3. Remove the shot fitting e-clip on the shot
dispenser and slide the fitting out of the dispenser
housing.
4. Remove the two black toolhead pins and
remove the toolhead from the machine.5. Install the red flag block into the primer feed
assembly. Fig. 2
REPLACING THE SHELLPLATE AND PARTS
IN THE PLATFORM
1. Remove the ejector wire (#16676).
2. Move the roller handle to the down position.
3. Use a 1/8" Allen wrench to loosen the 1/4-28
brass tip set screw 1/2 a turn. The brass tip set screw
is located on the left side of the machine, below the
platform, in the mainshaft.
4. While the machine is in this configuration, it is
a good time to exchange the red wad guide (12
gauge) with the yellow wad guide (20 gauge). Fig. 3
20 Gauge Conversion Instructions
Fig. 1
Fig. 3
dtoolhead
assembly
b (3)
a
c
e
Fig. 2 
						

							44
5. Return the roller handle to the up position.
6. Use a 1/4" Allen wrench to unscrew the
shellplate bolt.
7. Remove the shellplate from the machine.
8. Change the locator buttons. First, remove the
locator buttons by pressing and holding the locator
button down. Reach below the platform and rotate
the locator button until it snaps free. Fig. 4 Remove
all three locator buttons. Next, retrieve the new
locator buttons from the 20 gauge conversion box.
Place the spring on the locator button, place it in the
platform, press down and rotate as needed to allow
the locator button to snap into place. Fig. 4a9. At Station 2, place the yellow locator insert (20
gauge) onto the Station 2 locator. Fig. 5
10. Move the roller handle to the down position.
11. Place the 20 gauge shellplate on the
platform. Fig. 6
12. Insert the shellplate bolt. Use a 1/4" Allen
wrench to thread the shellplate bolt down until it
stops, then loosen no more than 1/4 of a turn.
13. Use a 1/8" Allen wrench to secure the 1/4-28
brass tip set screw. Do not over-tighten
Fig. 6
Fig. 5
Fig. 4a
Fig. 4 
						

							45
14. Reinstall the ejector wire (#16676). Fig. 7
15. Return the roller handle to the up position.
CASEFEEDASSEMBLYCONVERSION
(RIGHT-REAR OF THE MACHINE)
1. Remove the hulls and the clear casefeed tube
from the machine.
2. Use a 9/64" Allen wrench to remove the screw
and washer on the casefeed sleeve assembly.
Remove the 12 gauge casefeed sleeve off the
casefeed body. Fig. 83. From the 20 gauge conversion box, retrieve the
20 gauge casefeed sleeve, Fig. 9, and place it on the
casefeed body. Reinstall the screw and washer onto
the casefeed sleeve assembly.
4. Remove the 12 gauge disc from the casefeed
bowl. Fig. 10
Fig. 10
Fig. 9
Fig. 8
Fig. 7
12 ga. 20 ga. 
						

							46
Both 20 and 28 gauge hulls will use the small
gauge disc. Fig. 11
5. Install the small gauge disc into the casefeed
bowl. Rotate as needed until the motor driveshaft
enters the slot in the casefeed disc clutch. Fig. 12
6. Reinstall the clear casefeed tube.
7. Test run the assembly by placing 3-5 empty,
once-fired hulls into the casefeed bowl and turn the
unit on. Once all the hulls have been fed into the
clear feed tube, turn the unit off.
8. Move the roller handle up and down until all
the hulls have cycled through the machine.
TOOLHEADCONVERSION&
F
INALASSEMBLY
1. Slide the 20 gauge toolhead into the frame and
insert the two toolhead pins. Fig. 13
2. Install the powder measure; loosen the two
clamp screws and place the powder measure on the
powder die. Press the clamp forward into the groove
in the powder die and secure the two clamp screws
using a 5/32” Allen wrench.
3. Install both return rods onto the shot dispenser
and the powder measure.
4. Realign the shot hopper tube fitting with the
shot dispenser. Insert the fitting and the e-clip into
the dispenser top.
5. Cycle the roller handle two complete cycles to
insure everything is free to move.
6. Fill the shot dispenser with one cup of shot.
7. Remove the lid on the powder measure and fill
with your powder of choice.
8. Use a once-fired hull, place the hull in Station
2 where the powder measure is located. Fig. 14
Fig. 14
Fig. 13
Fig. 12
Fig. 11 
						

							47
9. Move the roller handle down and then back
up to its rest position. Remove the hull from the
shellplate by pressing down on the locator
button. Fig. 15Pour the powder back into the
clear powder hopper.
10. Repeat these two steps a minimum of four
times to make sure you are receiving a uniform
powder charge.
11. Weigh the fifth powder charge.
12. Adjust as needed.
13. Now that you have determined the powder
charge, move to Station 3 for wad and shot insertion.
14. Get a supply of wads.
15. Use the same hull with powder in it. At
Station three, insert the wad into the wad swing arm
and move the roller handle down. Fig. 16
16. Return the roller handle to its rest position
and remove the hull from the shellplate by pressing
down on the locator button. Pour the shot back into
the shot hopper. 17. Repeat these steps 4 times to make sure you
are receiving a uniform shot charge.
18. Weigh the fifth shot charge. Adjust as needed
to the desired weight.
At Stations 4 and 5, the starter crimp die and
final seat/crimp functions are performed.
19. Using the same hull with shot in it in Station
4, move the roller handle down and then back to its
rest position, the formed and folded hull has just
completed Station 4 and has advanced to Station 5.
Fig. 17
20. Once again, move the roller handle down. As
you return the roller handle to its rest position,
you'll see the completed round advance and move
out of the machine.
21. Inspect the completed round. 
22. Before you begin reloading, review all
assemblies to assure yourself that all the screws you
touched are tight. You are now ready to begin your
reloading session.
Once you’ve started loading, Fig. 18 shows a full
shellplate with all functions performed.
Fig. 18
Fig. 17
Fig. 16
Fig. 15 
						

							Troubleshooting Section #1, Primer System
1. I broke my primer transfer arm (#16691). This
happens when a new primer is only partially seated
into the shotshell. A spare is included with the
machine, but it’s important that you make
complete, full strokes of the operating handle
when using the SL 900. See Illustrations 1 & 2
2. A primer is laying sideways inside the clear cover
of the primer tray. How do I remove it? Shotshell
Primers are magnetic – get a small magnet, screw-
driver or pointer and use it to get that primer out.
Another method available is to simply unscrew
the black knobs that secure the cover, slide the clear
cover off, and remove all the primers. Reassemble
the parts, then refill the primer tray with primers.
3.From time to time I notice that a new primer  lands
on the platform rather than into the hole in the primer
transfer arm. Why? Two things may be occurring
here: First, the speed in which you operate the
handle affects the feeding of new primers. As the
new primer is dispensed from the primer tray, it
takes a fraction of a second to fall through the tube
and into the hole in the primer transfer arm. When
you reach the bottom of the handle’s stroke, pause
for a second, then move the handle again. Always
pace yourself when operating your machine. 
Second, you always get a new primer with every
complete stroke of the machine’s handle. If there
isn’t a shotshell in station two to receive the primer,
that primer will be left on the platform.
4. A dirty primer tray can be annoying. If you
reload in a dusty environment (for instance, a barn
or garage) or the shotshells you have are dirty, over
time dust will collect on the primer tray. We've made
the primer tray stainless steel so you can clean it
with windex or alcohol. Just remove the clear cover
and wipe it clean. Our machine cover was designed
to help keep your loader clean when you're not
using it. Ask for part #13329. 
5. Where does the grease go again?See page 37 in
the manual, also make sure your hands are grease-
free when handling new primers; they don't feed
well in any machine when they’re greasy.
6. How do I stop the primers from feeding? A
rectangular insert has been included with the
machine. Place your thumb on the primer drop tube
and raise the primer system by pushing it up. Insert
the stop block BETWEEN the primer feed body and
the tray mounting bracket. Remove the stop block
when you're ready to begin reloading again.
7. When I operate the machine, it doesn’t always drop
a primer.An adjustment screw (#17639, see the
schematic on page 13) is located in the platform.
This screw increases or reduces the stroke of the
black primer slide located on the primer tray via the
primer drop tube. If the primer moves over the hole
but it does not drop thru, turn the adjustment screw
counterclockwise to raise the primer drop tube andthe black primer slide will stroke more and then the
primer will drop thru the hole.
The adjustment screw (#17639) may periodically
go out of adjustment. Remove the screw and clean
the threads and the hole in the platform with
alcohol. Apply some blue Loctite to the threads and
reinstall.
8. Why do I get high primers when using Winchester
primers and Remington hulls, but not when using
Remington hulls and primers? The new silver colored
Winchester primers appear to be .002 diameter
larger than the previous copper colored primers at
the point just above the flange. We suggest using a
bit more forward push on the operating handle
when seating the primer or switching to Remington
primers for Remington hulls.
Illustrations 1 & 2
Inside your parts bag you will find an extra
primer transfer arm, #16691, see illustration 1.
While every effort has been made to manufacture a
sound machine for you, it’s important that you
make complete, full strokes of the operating
handle when using the SL 900. Assure yourself
that the primer is fully seated into the shotshell.
We’ve found that the primer transfer arm WILL
break if the primer is only partially seated into the
shotshell. Never force the handle when a jam
occurs, instead, slowly return the handle to its rest
position. When the shotshells appear out of the
bottom of the dies, remove the suspect shotshell
from the priming station. Once you have removed
the suspect shotshell, complete the stroke of the
handle you started.
48
SNAP!
Illustration 1
Primer Transfer Arm
Illustration 2
Primer Transfer Arm
Troubleshooting 
						

							49
Technical Support
1-800-223-4570
Troubleshooting Section #2, Casefeeder
1. General casefeeder information: Capacity is
80 shotshells. Electric motor information: 110V AC
for US customers and 220V AC (3 RPM) for
European customers.
2. The shotshells jam in the clear funnel. Always
check the shotshells to make sure that no flattened
or stepped on shotshells get into the casefeeder.
Suggestion: Use the clear feed tube to gage any
shotshell to make sure that it can slide through the
tube before placing it in the casefeeder bowl.
3. It looks like half of a shotshell is hanging out of the
bottom of the casefeed body. A shotshell can jam in the
casefeed body if the mouth of the shotshell is so
deformed that it gets stuck on the casefeed phish
inside the casefeed body. Simply remove the
shotshell by pulling it out.
4. I have noticed that the microswitch does not shut
the motor off. The microswitch uses the pressure of
the shotshell against the aluminum arm on the
switch to turn the motor off. You can bend the
aluminum arm as needed to assure that the switch
is activated.
Troubleshooting Section #3, General
1. It’s important that you make complete, full
strokes of the operating handle when using the
SL 900.
2. Never use any solvent-type lubricants such
as Brakefree or WD-40. These will cause the
mainshaft to seize in the main bore.
3. When I operate the machine, some shotshells get
stuck and strike the mouth of the sizing die.The
shotshells may have a deformed rim or base. Throw
the bad shotshells away. 
Another possible cause is that a shot pellet may
have fallen into the pocket area, stopping the
shotshell from feeding in to the shellplate. Inspect
the shellplate grooves for any smashed shot or
other debris.
4. The operating handle stopped halfway through its
stroke. The first thing to do when this occurs is to tap
every shotshell. See if you can feel which one is in a
bind. It may be that the primer is not fully seated
into the shotshell. It’s important that you make
complete, full strokes of the operating handle
when using the SL 900.
It may be that the first shotshell has struck the
mouth of the sizing die, or a wad or smaller gaugeshotshell is stuck inside the first shotshell and has
jammed itself onto the depriming pin. Or it may be
that a wad has not entered the shotshell properly
and is caught on the mouth of the shotshell. 
Whatever the cause, remove the suspect round
by lowering the shotshells out of the dies, then
remove the problem round from the machine.
5. I’m not sure if the powder charge is correct.
Always use a reputable loading manual. The powder
bar does not come set from the factory. You must use
a scale to adjust the weight of the powder charge
being dispensed. The machine manual has detailed
instructions on how to set up the powder measure.
6. When I use the machine some of the wad petals get
caught and fold beneath the shot tube. Then a spill
might occur because the shot is too high in the
shotshell. Always inspect the wads before you place
them into the wad seater. You can use your thumb to
press the petals open, then insert the wad into the
wad seater.
7. How do I remove that last amount of shot from
the shot bar? When all the shot has been drained
out of the large hopper, place a plastic container or
coffee can next to the shot dispenser drain. Rotate
the plastic shot drain with your index finger and
hold it there until all the shot has emptied. Any
remaining shot in the shot bar (#16738) and
dispenser can be removed by running a hull through
the machine.
8. When I cycle the handle the wad swing arm hits the
edge of the toolhead as it tries to go thru the hole. We
have placed an adjustment set screw below the foot
of the wad swing arm inside the platform (#13789,
see the schematic on page 10). Using a 1/8” Allen
wrench turn the screw as needed to center the wad
swing arm in the hole it passes thru in the toolhead.
9. The shot dispenser and the powder systems
use a 10-32 thread kep nut (#13817). These nuts may
become loose over time and should be replaced with
Nylock nuts (#13841).
10. The shot dispensing tube (#17479) is
designed to flex during operation. Do not shorten
the tube for any reason or it will no longer funtion
as it was designed to.
NOTE:  All electrical/electronic components in
Dillon equipment are covered by a one year
warranty. 
						

							50
Fig. 83 - Left view.
Fig. 82 - Right view.
H.
N.
M.
L.
N.
P.O.
J.
E.I.
N.
F.
D.
G.
C.
A. K.
C.
B.
A.) Mainshaft: The most important lube point of
all. Use 30w motor oil to lube the mainshaft
(#13485).
Use grease on the following items:
B.) Mainshaft Pivot Pin (#13830)
C.) Link Arm Cross Pins (one hole in the frame
and two in the crank)
D.) Shellplate Bolt Hole
E.) Case Insert Slide Arm/Ramp
F.) Wad Sleeve
G.) Wad Swing Arm Pivot HoleH.) Powder Body Collar (rails, hole and roller,
bellcrank)
I.) Lock Link (#16730)
J.) Around the Collet Sizer Sleeve (#16742)
K.) On the Ring Indexer and Indexer Block
L.) A very light amount on the surface of the
Primer Drop Tube
M.) Primer Feed Body Rails
N.) The Main Pivot Hole in all Bellcranks
O.)  Primer Feed Cam (#16717), Cam Slot
P.)  1/4” Diameter Alignment Post
LUBEPOINTS ON THESL 900 MACHINE: FIG. 82 & FIG. 83 
						

							Two adjustments are available here on the final crimp die.
Example, if some of the reloads you have just finished
appear shallow as shown here (also on page 17 of the
manual), then turn the seat plug clockwise (down), using
1/4 turn increments.
Or, you can turn the whole die clockwise (down) using
1/4 turn increments. You will then see the next reload with
more taper on its end and the seated depth will be deeper.
Another example relating to the final crimp die adjustment
when reloading different shotshells: “When I have made
some reloads, some of the shotshells have buckled in the
middle, but it doesn’t happen all the time.” You will need
to raise the whole die by turning the assembly
counterclockwise (up) at least 1/4 to 1/2 a turn.
Here are some helpful adjustment settings for the SL 900 Shotshell Loader.  These settings illustrate ideal
adjustments for the starter crimp and the final crimp die. These settings can also be used to reset these
dies if you get completely out of adjustment.
Station 5, Final Crimp Die
Use dial calipers when measuring
these dimensions. See the bottom of
this page for additional adjustments.Use dial calipers when measuring these
dimensions.
When you turn the starter crimp clockwise
(down), you are increasing the amount of
plastic that will be folded or rolled closed.
When you turn the starter crimp
counterclockwise (up), you are decreasing
the amount of plastic that will be folded or
rolled closed.
Station 4, Starter Crimp Die
2.30 -
2.350
overall
lengthseated depth
.065
Starter Crimp
Screw
(adjustable)
Final Crimp DIe
(adjustable)
Seat Plug
(adjustable)
.100
1.600
.400
Starter Crimp
Die Body
(non-adjustable)
SUGGESTEDSETTINGS
51