Dillon Precision Super 1050 Instruction Manual

							will continue to run until the tube is
full, at which point a micro-switch will
temporarily stop the case flow.
From this point the casefeeder will
automatically fill the tube as you
reload. If the casefeeder does not func-
tion properly or the cases do not fall
base down, refer to the Trouble
Shooting section of this manual. 
Pull the operating handle smoothly
to the bottom stop, then raise the han-
dle, a case has been fed to Station 1.
Cycle the handle again, strive to be
smooth in your operation.
The first case should be indexed to
Station 2. Cycle the handle again.
It is not necessary to apply any force
on the upstroke of the handle. All you
are doing on the upstroke is indexing
the shellplate. Remember that priming
is done on the down stroke. A slow
measured upstroke gives you lots of
time to pick up the next bullet andready it for seating. If you count one
second down, and one second up,
you’ll have a good pace.
The first case should now be in
Station 3with a case in Stations 1 & 2
as well. Cycle the handle again. The
case is swaged and expanded at Station
3. Observe the swage operating part
(#20314*), if the swage is proper, pro-
ceed – if not see items 3 and 4 in the
Trouble Shooting section of this manu-
al. Cycle the handle again and the case
gets primed at Station 4. 
If the primer is not seated properly
(too high or too deep) you will need to
adjust the primer push rod (#12819).
Clockwise turns of the primer push rod
will cause the primer to be seated deep-
er while counterclockwise turns will
seat the primer higher. 
The first case in the sequence
should now be primed and at Station5. Remove the locator button
(#20637*), extract the round and check
the primer. If everything looks okay,
replace the case and button and pro-
ceed. However, if the primer is not
seated properly (too high or too deep)
you will need to adjust the primer push
rod (#12819). Clockwise turns of the
primer push rod will cause the primer
to be seated deeper while counterclock-
wise turns will seat the primer higher. 
Cycle the handle again, the automat-
ic powder measure will drop the charge
you’ve selected. Pistol casemouths will
be belled at this time. Look through the
inspection hole in Station 6– you
should be able to see your powder
charge in the case.
Cycle the handle again. Now, with
your left hand, place a bullet on the
powder-charged case at Station 7and
cycle the handle. Your bullet will be
seated to its proper depth, if not, a sim-
11
Station 5 - Here the case mouth is belled
and powder dispensed.
Station 1 - The casefeed plunger inserts the
case into the shellplate.
Station 2 - Here, spent cartridge cases are
resized and deprimed.
Station 7 - In this station, the bullet is seat-
ed to its proper depth.
Station 8 - Here the case is crimped and
then ejected out of the shellplate with the
next pull of the handle.
Station 3 - Here the case mouth is expand-
ed  while a rod supports the case base for
swaging. 
						

							ple height adjustment to the seating
stem may be necessary. Refer to a load-
ing manual for proper loaded length
(OAL). Cycle the handle again and
check for crimp atStation 8. Refer to
Trouble Shooting item 8 for adjust-
ments if necessary. Add a bullet, cycle
again. Your first loaded round should
now be ejected into the collection bin.
If all has gone well to this point
you’ve got it made. Just keep adding
bullets, watch your fingers so they
don’t get caught and don’t hurry. Just
try to be smooth in your operation. The
speed will come naturally and you’ll be
doing a thousand rounds per hour
before you even realize it.
The following are some adjustment
suggestions as well as Trouble
Shooting hints.
Adjustments
Casefeeder
It may be necessary to readjust the
micro-switch for different calibers.
Cases may become lodged between
the micro-switch and the tube wall.
The other extreme is the case failing to
put enough pressure on the micro-
switch to shut off the system causing
it to continue running and over flow-
ing the tube. Fig. 26
The casefeed spacer (#13703) sup-
plied in the accessory package, is to
be used when you are reloading .41
Mag, .44 Mag, .357 Mag, .30 Carbine,
or .45 Colt. Remove the two clutch screws
(#13732), lock washer (#13813) and
upper clutch (#13632) and the case-
feed plate. Place the spacer on the
shoulder of the lower clutch and
reassemble – see the schematic on
page 31 for more details. The casefeed
plate should now be approximately
1/8” above the floor of the casefeed
bowl. Note: Make sure the casefeed
plate is centered in the bowl. Fig. 27
Handle
The operating handle is adjustable to
three different length settings. Choose
the one most comfortable for your
operation. Loosen the set screw
(#13432) then retighten when the han-
dle is in the most comfortable position.Swager
Swaging on the Super 1050 is a sim-
ple process and is necessary on all car-
tridge cases as a means of uniforming
the entrance of the primer pocket. Fig.
29The swage rod (#20314 large or
#20313 - small) is fully adjustable.
Swage Conversion and
Adjustment Conversion – Fig. 30
Begin by removing the swage cover
(#13064). Next remove the hitch pin
(#13840) and slide out the clevis pin
(#13522). Remove the operating handle.
Rotate the swage connecting rod a half
turn and remove it. This will allow you
access to the swager. Pull the swager
down and out of the machine. Fig. 30
Insert the new swager and
reassemble.
12
Fig. 26 - Shown is the micro-switch that
automatically shuts off when a case is next
to it. Also shown is an optional spacer for
certain calibers: .380 and 9mm.
Micro-switch
Spacer
Fig. 27 - Make sure the casefeed plate is
centered in the bowl with approximately
1/8” all the way around.
Fig. 30 - See the schematics on page 28 for
more details.
Fig. 29 - Note the difference between the
swaged primer pocket (left) and the
unswaged primer pocket (right).
Fig. 28 - Note that there are three different
positions for mounting the operating handle.
1/8” 
						

							Swage Adjustments
Use ONLY an unswaged military
case for these adjustments.
With the handle in the down posi-
tion, screw the swage back-up
expander down until it makes contact
with the case bottom and holds it in
place. Fig. 31
With the handle still in the down
position, turn the swage rod up until it
makes contact with the case bottom. 
Raise the handle half-way and rotate
the swage rod a quarter turn. Now,
cycle the handle. Inspect the case and
when you achieve a completed swage
of the primer pocket, tighten the swage
lock nut (#14067). 
Aproperly swaged pocket will
show a rounded edge around the rim.
Some military cases (.223 & .308) start
out with three small dents around the
base of the pocket, once properly
swaged, the dents will no longer be
visible. Fig. 32
Primer System Change Over
Instructions
The Super 1050 has been shipped to
you with either the large or smallprimer system installed. To change the
system from large to small or vise
versa, follow these instructions:
Be sure all primers have been
removed from the primer system. Then
remove the Early Warning System and
the knurled cap. Then remove the
primer magazine (#22031 - large or
#22030 - small) and replace it with the
new size magazine. Be sure the key on
the tip (#14003 - large or #14024 -
small) is in the slot and the magazine is
all the way down in place.Fig. 33
Pull the operating handle to its down
position.
Loosen the lever arm bracket screw
(#14037) and slide the bracket assem-
bly up four inches and lock it in
place.Fig. 34Raise the operating handle, remove
the two primer feed body screws
(#13363) and lift off the primer feed
body assembly (#20773).
Remove the powder bar return rod
(#13960) from the powder measure
bellcrank (#17839) by releasing the
return rod clip (#13929). Fig. 35
Remove the casefeed tube (#13761)
and place it on your bench. Remove
the toolhead. Fig. 36  For more infor-
mation see the following section –
TOOLHEAD REMOVAL. 
13
Fig. 32 - Note the difference between the
swaged primer pocket (left) and the
unswaged primer pocket (right).
Fig. 31 - A cut-a-way view of a .45 ACP with
the swage rod and the back-up rod properly
adjusted in the swaging position.
Fig. 33 - Note the shape of the key at the
base of the primer magazine tip.
Fig. 34 - Slide the bracket assembly up and
out of the way – retighten the lever arm
bracket screw to hold it in place.
Fig. 35 - After removing the clip and discon-
necting the rod, replace the clip in the rod
for safe-keeping.
Fig. 36 - To remove the toolhead unscrew
the toolhead bolt and remove. 
						

							Now remove the shellplate lock
nut (#13425) by loosening the four
locator tab screws (#13895) about four
full turns.Fig. 37 
Loosen the ejector tab screw
(#13896) and swing the ejector tab
(#13189) out of the way. Fig. 38 Next,
slide the casefeed plunger (#13073*)
back and remove the shellplate. 
Rotate the primer slide stop (#13108)
90˚. This will allow you to remove, andreplace, the primer slide (#20318 - large
or #20317 - small).Fig. 39 
Next, remove the bushing (#13031 -
large or #13222 - small); spring
(#13858) and punch (#12849 - large or
#13307 - small) and replace them with
the parts for your new primer size.
Note that there is a specially designed
screwdriver supplied for the bushing
(included in the accessory bag). Fig. 40
You should clean your machine at
this time. Fig. 41
Prior to installation, lube the base of
the primer punch. Now adjust your
new punch (#12849 - large or #13307 -
small) so that it is flush with the bush-
ing (#13031 - large or #13222 - small) by
turning set screw (#13226) up or down.
If the primer punch is too low, dirt will
collect on top of it leaving imprints on
your primers. If it is too high it will
bind the slide. Note: You can use the
slide for a guide. Slide it back and forth
over the bushing to check your adjust-
ments. See the schematic on page 29 or
the trouble shooting section for addi-
tional information.
Toolhead Removal
Disconnect the powder bar return
rod (#13960) from the bellcrank
(#17839) by releasing the return rod
clip (#13929). Fig. 42
Remove the Primer Early Warning
device.
Raise the primer slide lever assembly
(#20488) and lock in place - see Fig. 34.
Obtain a 15/16” socket or wrench
(not supplied) to remove the toolhead
bolt (#13342) and washer (#13449).
Fig. 43
Now remove the toolhead (#20420).
Due to being spring loaded, there will
be some resistance. Wiggle the toolhead
up and off while holding the handle.
After removing the toolhead, careful-
ly lower the handle. 
When reinstalling the toolhead bolt
(#13342) turn it in only finger tight then
cycle the handle up and down to make
14
Fig. 38 - Loosen the screw and swing the
ejector tab out of the way.
Fig. 39 - Rotate the primer slide stop 90˚ to
move the primer slide freely in or out.
slide stop
Fig. 40 - A special screwdriver for the bush-
ing has been included in your accessory bag.
Fig. 41 - It is very important to keep the
machine free of grit and debris.
Fig. 43 - Due to being spring loaded, there
will be some resistance when pulling the
toolhead off.
Fig. 42 - After removing the clip and discon-
necting the rod, replace the clip in the rod
for safe-keeping.
Fig. 37 - The four lock ring screws need only
be loosened about four turns to remove the
shellplate lock nut. 
						

							sure everything is properly located.
With the handle in the down position,
tighten the toolhead bolt with the
above mentioned wrench.
Shellplate Removal
Loosen the ejector tab screw
(#13896) and swing the ejector tab
(#13189) out of the way. Fig. 38
Loosen the four locator tab screws
(#13895) about four full turns. Fig. 37
Use a toothbrush to remove any
powder that may be in the threads
before removing the lock ring.
Next remove the lock ring (#20311).
Now push the casefeed plunger back
(#13073*) and lift the shellplate off. Be
sure to lightly grease the bore of the
shellplate when reinstalling it. Fig. 44
Rule of thumb: turn the lock ring
down until tight then back off one-
eighth of a turn. Then tighten the four
locator tab screws (#13895).
Casefeed Plunger Conversion
When changing calibers it may be
necessary to replace the casefeed
plunger (#13073*).
To do this, remove the clear casefeed
tube (#13761) and pull out the colored
casefeed adapter (#13654*). The adapter
is taped for shipping purposes.
Remove the two housing screws
(#13815) and the casefeed adapter
housing (#11006).Place your hand on the plunger
while removing the roller bolt (#13333).
This will prevent the casefeed plunger
and spring from jumping out of the
machine. Fig. 45
Thoroughly clean the track and
casefeed parts with a solvent. Now
very lightly apply grease to the sides
and install the proper size casefeed
plunger (#13073*). Fig. 46Remember
to grease the roller (#13498) and the
roller track (Fig. 46) and Loctite the
threads on the roller bolt (#13333).
Install the casefeed housing and
insert the proper size adapter (#13654*).
The casefeed tube (#13761) should now
be inserted into the casefeed adapter
(#13654*). Note that the tube is marked
“up” on one end. Press this end into the
tube clip (#13859). See the Trouble
Shooting section for any adjustments.
Die Adjustments
Station 2 - To install the size/decap die
Warning: Never attempt to deprime
live primers, an explosion may result.
Move the toolhead down, by lower-
ing the handle all the way down.
Screw the sizing die into Station 2.
Continue to screw the die down until it
just touches the shellplate. Fig. 47
Tighten the die lock ring finger tight.
Now move the toolhead up by raising
the handle to its upright position. 
Note: When loading .270 or .30-06
you need to raise the decap assembly
so that the hitch pin clip is a minimum
of 1/8” above the silver lock ring as
shown inFig. 47.
Place a case in the casefeed funnel.
Here, the case drops to the casefeed
plunger.
Cycle the handle. The casefeed cam
pushes the roller bushing back, drop-
ping the case into the slot of the
plunger.
Cycle the handle. The case is inserted
into the shellplate. 
Note: After raising the handle,
insure that you push the handle
against its full aft stop. This will
insure that the shellplate fully
advanced to the next station. 
Note: When priming, pushing the
handle against its stop, will insure that
the primer is fully seated.
15
Fig. 45 - The casefeed plunger and spring
are under tension. Hold them in place while
removing the roller bolt.
Fig. 44 - Your machine will work its best
when properly cleaned and lubricated.
Fig. 46 - Be sure to lightly grease the sides
of the casefeed plunger track, casefeed
plunger and roller after cleaning.
roller track
Fig. 47 - Screw the size/decap die down
until it just touches the shellplate. 
						

							Again, move the toolhead down.
The case is now sized. If the case has a
spent primer, it will be deprimed.
Leave the toolhead in this position
with the case fully inserted in the die.
Fig. 48This will ensure that the die
remains in alignment when tightening
the lock ring.
Using a 1-1/8" wrench to turn the
lock ring and a 7/8" wrench to hold the
die body, tighten the lock ring. 
Station 3 - Adjustment of the
Expander Die
Install the expander die (caliber
specific) at Station 3. Place a case in
Station 2 and cycle the operating han-
dle once (sending the case to Station
3). Turn the expander die down until
you feel it make contact with the case
and cycle the operating handle. Make
adjustments in one-quarter turn
increments until the desired expan-
sion of the case mouth is achieved.
Tighten the die lock ring.Aproperly expanded case should
show a slight flare at the case mouth.
Fig. 49
Station 5 - Adjustment of the Powder
Die/Powder Funnel
Note: Adjusting the powder die for
a straight wall case is not the same as
adjusting a powder die for a bottle-
necked case. This is because straight
wall cases are given a bell and bottle-
necked cases are not given a bell. 
For the powder bar to properly dis-
pense a measured powder charge, the
powder bar must travel its full dis-
tance. To travel its full distance, thewhite cube must contact the powder
measure body (see arrow FIG 51). 
Also the belling process does not
begin until after the powder bar has
traveled its full distance. The angled
portion on the bottom of the powder
funnel (Fig. 52) is what bells the car-
tridge. Once the white cube has con-
tacted the powder measure body the
case is forced upward against the
tapered portion of the powder funnel
producing a bell. The more the powder
die is adjusted down (clockwise) the
more the case will be belled.
Note: If the powder die is not adjust-
ed down far enough to cause the pow-
der bar to travel its full distance the
powder charge will be erratic and the
case will not receive enough bell.
16
Fig. 49 - You don’t need any more expansion
than what you see in this photograph.
Fig. 48 - As the toolhead continues down,
it will reshape the case neck, shoulder
and body.
Fig. 50 - When properly adjusted, the
case mouth will go past the expanding
line and the stem will contact the bottom
of the case.
Fig. 51 - This photo shows the powder bar at
the end of its travel.
Fig. 52 - Adjusting the powder die up
reduces the amount of belling – down
increases the amount of belling. 
						

							Station 5 - Adjustment of the Powder
Die/Powder Funnel Cont...
Drop a case into the casefeed funnel
and cycle the handle twice. The case
should now be in the shellplate at
Station 2.
Move the handle down. Notice the
resistance at the end of the down
stroke. This is the resistance of the case
in the sizing die. Raise the handle. The
case will index to Station 3.
Cycle the handle to advance the case
to Station 4. Again, cycle the handle to
prime the case and index it to Station 5.
Cycle the handle.
If the white cube has not traveled
its full distance, raise the toolhead just
enough to pull the case off of the pow-
der funnel (this will prevent the
shellplate from indexing while you
adjust the powder die). While holding
the powder measure, turn the die
down 1/8 of a turn. Again lower the
toolhead and observe the travel of the
powder bar.
Repeat as needed until the powder
bar travels its full distance, Fig. 51.
Once the powder bar travels fully
across you should continue to adjust
the powder die for the desired amount
of bell (turn the powder die 1/8 of a
turn at a time). The desired amount
bell is just enough to allow the bullet
to sit on the case mouth without
falling off and to keep the case from
shaving lead during the seating
process - see the illustration (right)
example “B”.
Note: If you screw the die down too
far, the case will look like example "C"
in the illustration (right). You must then
discard this case, back the powder die
off, by turning it counter-clockwise,
and continue with a new sized case.
You’ll soon learn to judge the correct
amount of bell by simply looking at it.
In the meantime, you might want to
use your dial calipers to check it.
Twenty thousandths of an inch greater
(at the mouth of the case) than its origi-
nal diameter, should about do it.
Once you’ve achieved the desired
amount of bell – with the case in
Station 5, raise the toolhead. Run the
lock ring down hand tight.
Insure the bellcrank and the return
rod bolt (in the frame) FIG 53are
aligned. Using a 5/32" Allen wrench,
snug the collar clamp screws.While holding the powder measure
in place, snug the lock ring using a 1-
1/8” wrench.
Station 7 - General Information on
Bullet Seating
The purpose of the seating die is to
insert the bullet into the case and to
push it down into the case the proper
amount.
How far the bullet is pushed into
the case will determine the overall
length (OAL). Several factors go into
determining the proper OAL – such as,
the maximum recommended OAL,
listed in the reloading manual, and the
type of bullet being loaded. The type
of bullet can determine the OAL in one
of two ways. 
If the bullet has what is called a can-
nelure, or crimping groove Fig. 54 &
55, this will determine the proper
OAL. If the bullet you’re using doesn’t
have a cannelure or a crimping groove,
then you’ll need to refer to your
reloading manual for the suggested
OAL. The purpose of the cannelure
and crimping groove is to secure the
bullet by giving the mouth of the case
a place to go (without deforming the
bullet) when being crimped. When the
bullet is properly seated, the mouth of
the cartridge case should be near the
top of the cannelure/crimping groove.
Refer to your reloading manual.
Under the section specified for the cal-
iber you’re loading, you’ll find a
17
Fig. 54 & 55 - Shown are several examples
of a cannelure or crimping groove.
Fig. 53 - Make sure the bellcrank and return
rod bolt are aligned.
A
Correct amount
of bell.
B
Not enough bell.
C
Too much bell.


 












 


















 



















 












 


















 
















 
						

							schematic of the cartridge. For example,
.38 Special lists a maximum OAL of
1.55" (Lyman Reloading Handbook). If
you’re seating the bullet to the can-
nelure/crimping groove, the OAL
should be well within the maximum
OAL listed, however, use a set of dial
calipers to check it. (Dial calipers are
available from Dillon Precision). If the
bullet you’re using doesn’t have a can-
nelure/crimping groove, refer to the
specific type of bullet you’re using in
the reloading manual. For example – if
you’re loading a 158 gr.  .38 Sp. JHP
and it doesn’t have a cannelure/ crimp-
ing groove, use the suggested OAL of
1.480 (Lyman Reloading Handbook).
Station 7 - Installation and
Adjustment of the Seating Die
Take the seating die from the die box
and screw it into Station 7. Screw the
die down until the bottom of the die is
flush with the bottom of the toolhead.
Note: At this point the die will not be
screwed down far enough to begin
seating the bullet, but it will give you a
place to start. Place a case (with a belled case
mouth) into Station 7. Fig. 56
Place a bullet on the belled case
mouth and lower the toolhead. Then,
raise the toolhead just enough to
inspect the bullet without indexing the
shellplate. If the bullet is not seated
deep enough, screw the seating die
down 1/2 turn at a time. As a guide,
one full turn moves the die down about
70 thousandths of an inch, about the
thickness of a nickel. Again, cycle the
machine and inspect the seating depth.
Repeat these steps as necessary until
the correct overall length is achieved.
Use a dial caliper or equivalent to
measure the overall length of the car-
tridge. Check the overall length of the
round against the information in your
reloading manual.
Once you have obtained the proper
OAL, replace the cartridge into Station
7 and lower the toolhead. Using a 1-
1/8" wrench to turn the lock ring and a
7/8" wrench to hold the die body, snug
the lock ring.
Note: If you ever load a cartridge
that you are unhappy with, you can use
a Dillon bullet puller to reclaim your
components.
Station 8 - Installation and adjustment
of the Crimp Die
Screw the crimp die into Station 8.
Screw it down until it is flush with the
bottom of the toolhead. This is a good
starting point for the crimp adjustment.
Place a cartridge with a properly
seated bullet into Station 8. Lower the toolhead and continue to
screw the die down until it touches the
cartridge. Fig. 57
Raise the toolhead and screw the die
down 1/8 of a turn, lower the toolhead.
Raise the toolhead half-way and
inspect the cartridge. If the bell is still
present, or the desired amount of crimp
has not been achieved, give the die a
1/8 turn down and try again. Continue
making small adjustments to your
crimp die until the desired amount of
crimp has been achieved.
Once the adjustment is complete,
place the case back into Station 8 and
lower the toolhead. Using a 1-1/8"
wrench to turn the lock ring and a
7/8" wrench to hold the die body,
snug the lock ring.
Note: When adjusting the crimp die
it is important to know what to look for.
Check that the crimp: Looks OK, allows
your firearm to function consistently
and the bullet feels tight in the case.
The drawing of case #3 (above) is a
depiction of a case that has been over
crimped by adjusting the crimp die
down (clockwise) too far. Note the
18
Fig. 56 - Place the bullet on the case
mouth at Station 7.Fig. 57 - Cut away crimp die shows the
area being crimped while the case is
being fully supported by the die body.
Please note that every die set includes
seating stems to fit most common bullet
types. Select the appropriate seating stem
for the bullet type you are loading.



















 





























 












 


















 



















 












 











3 2 1 
						

							defined line below the mouth of the
case and the bulge below the line. This
is not a proper crimp. This line is the
direct result of the cartridge being over
crimped. A line like this will only
appear if the crimp die is adjusted
down too far. Warning: Over crimp-
ing .45ACP, .38 Super, 9mm, etc., can
actually cause the bullet to be loose
in the case.
Adjustments for calibers 9mm, .38 Sp.,
.45 ACP and for hot loads that have
been fired many times
Configuration 1
To begin, place a military case (sized,
decapped and unswaged) into Station 3.
Screw the back-up rod (#12749*)
down two turns into the toolhead
(#20420). Pull the handle.
Using a wrench turn the back-up rod
(#12749*) down until it hits the inside
bottom of the case. Note: Do not force
the expander as this will damage the
case and the shellplate. Now secure the
lock ring (#20006*). Raise the handle.
Screw the eyebolt (#13245) all the
way into the swager. Grease the clevis
pin (#13522) heavily.
Put the swager into position. Push
the clevis pin through the connecting
rod and eyebolt and secure with the
hitch pin (#13840). Replace the swage
cover (#13064).
With the military case still in
Station 3, pull the operating handle
down with your left hand. Now turn
the swager upward with your right
hand until it meets resistance. With
your left hand raise the operating
handle about 10 inches. With your
right hand turn the swager up a 1/4
turn. Cycle the handle down. 
Raise the handle just enough to
remove the case and inspect the
primer pocket to see the amount of
swaging being done. The swager
should leave a radiused entrance on
the primer pocket. Fig. 58Turn the swager in, using 1/4 turn
increments until you achieve the prop-
er swage. Secure the jam nut (#13682).
Note: Do not over swage. This condi-
tion will cause damage to the
shellplate (#12600*). 
When your swager is properly
adjusted you will feel resistance during
the final 1/2" to 1" of the downward
stroke of the handle.
Adjustments for rifle calibers
Configuration 2
To begin, place a military case (sized,
decapped and unswaged) into Station 3.
Remove the back-up rod (#12749*)
from the back-up die (#12184).
With the operating handle in the
down position, screw the back-up die
into Station 3 until the die comes into
contact with the shellplate. Now back
the die out one full turn and secure it in
place with the lock ring (#14067).
Leave the handle in the down posi-
tion. With a wrench, screw the back-
up rod into the back-up die. Turn the
back-up rod down until it touches the
inside bottom of the case. Note: Do
not force the expander as this will
damage the case and the shellplate.
Now secure the lock ring (#20006*).
Raise the handle.
Screw the eyebolt (#13245) all the
way into the swager. Grease the clevis
pin (#13522) heavily.
Put the swager into position. Push
the clevis pin through the connecting
rod and eyebolt and secure with the
hitch pin (#13840). Replace the swage
cover (#13064).
With the military case still in Station
3, pull the operating handle down
with your left hand. Now turn the
swager upward with your right hand
until it meets resistance.With your left
hand raise the operating handle about
10 inches. With your right hand turn
the swager up a 1/4 turn. Cycle the
handle down. 
Raise the handle just enough to
remove the case and inspect the
primer pocket to see the amount of
swaging being done. The swager
should leave a radiused entrance on
the primer pocket. Fig. 58
Turn the swager in, using 1/4 turn
increments until you achieve the proper
swage. Secure the jam nut (#13682).
Note: Do not over swage. This condi-tion will cause damage to the shellplate
(#12600*). 
When your swager is properly
adjusted you will feel resistance during
the final 1/2" to 1" of the downward
stroke of the handle.
RL1050 vs. Super 1050
Not all parts are the same but some
are still interchangeable. We have made
changes to several parts used on the
Super 1050 that are not interchangeable
with the RL1050 machine.
•The Super 1050 primer lever assem-
bly (#) has a longer arm to accommo-
date the higher toolhead travel. This
is not available for RL 1050
machines. Primer feed body (#20773)
will fit both machines but again the
primer lever assembly will not.
•The Super 1050 assembly does not
include the ratchet cam, ratchet
restriction tab and related parts.
•The Super 1050 index lever has been
shortened considerably and will not
index properly on RL 1050 machines.
•The Super 1050 index roller has
changed in diameter and is much too
large for the RL 1050.
•The Super 1050 mainshaft, main-
shaft pivot pin, crankshaft assem-
bly, and bearings are completely
different.
•The casefeed body has been modified
to allow long cases to feed through
but is interchangeable between the
Super 1050 and RL 1050 machines.
•Any RL 1050 toolhead assembly will
fit the Super 1050 machine. You will
need to remove the ratchet cam from
the toolhead and install a 1/8” thick
washer or spacer in its place. Then
reinstall the cam guide bolt.
•The toolhead spring and sleeve, as a
set, are longer to accommodate the
increased toolhead travel on the
Super 1050 but they will work on
the RL 1050.
•Any RL 1050 shellplate will fit on
the Super 1050 with one exception.
The #1 shellplate for .45 ACP has
tight fitting pockets and may or
may not allow .308 Winchester cases
to feed into the shellplate freely. All
new #1 shellplates have a star next
to the number one to indicate the
revised version.
•The Super 1050 indexer return spring
19
Fig. 58 - Note the difference between the
swaged primer pocket (left) and the
unswaged primer pocket (right). 
						

							has an additional bend in it but can
be used on both the Super 1050 and
RL 1050 machines. NOTE: If you are
using an indexer return spring from
an RL 1050 spare parts kit, you will
need to make an additional bend in
the spring before installing it on the
Super 1050.
•The RL 1050 spent primer cup has
been replaced with a larger, plastic
spent primer cup and bracket. It is
not interchangeable.
Using RL 1050 toolheads and
dies on the Super 1050...
If you want to interchange an RL
1050 toolhead already set for a caliber
you want to load onto the Super 1050
you will need to check for the following
clearances.
1. Remove the toolhead assembly
from the Super 1050.
2. Replace the shellplate with the
shellplate for the caliber you intend to
load with.
3. Remove the toolhead spring and
set the toolhead onto the mainshaft
while holding the handle at about mid-
travel for proper alignment into the
frame. Next, install the washer and
toolhead bolt.
4. Slowly lower the handle and look
to see if any die comes in contact with
the shellplate. Readjust dies as needed.
5. Place one unprimed case in the
swage station and again slowly lower
the handle. Readjust the expander and
swage rod as needed.
6. Once you have reset the dies to the
machine, remove the toolhead and rein-
stall the toolhead spring and complete
the rest of the conversion and set up to
reload. Reinstall the toolhead.
Trouble Shooting 
.308 Winchester and related calibers
with similar case length (.243 and/or
.22-250) also lend themselves to reload-
ing on this new machine. No special
changes are necessary to the die set.
Hard or Incomplete Indexing
1.) Wrong size locator buttons
(#20637*).
2.) Index pawl bent or worn (#13705).
3.) Shellplate lock ring adjusted too
tightly (#20311).
4.) Dirt under the shellplate (#12600*).5.) Bent or broken shellplate (#12600*).
6.) Ejector tab (#13189) interfering with
the shellplate - see above photo.
Station 1: Case Insertion Problems
1.) Wrong size case insert plunger
(#13073*).
2.) Wrong case insert adapter (#13654*).
3.) Shellplate lock ring not adjusted
tight enough.
4.) Dirt in the shellplate (#12600*) pock-
ets or damaged shellplate.
5.) Handle being moved too rapidly on
upstroke.
6.) Bent or broken roller bolt (#13333).
7.) Dirt or media in casefeed track.
Station 2: Resizing and
Decapping Problems
With .30-06 and .270 calibers it is
important to note that the seater and
crimp dies must be shortened for clear-
ance reasons. They are available and
are included with the respective con-
version kits.
1.) Crushed cases:
a.) Shellplate lock ring too loose or
too tight. 
b.) Not enough radius on the die.
Use Dillon dies whenever possible.
c.) Wrong size or missing locator but-
tons.
2.) Bending or breaking decapping pins:
a.) Wrong shellplate (#12600*).
b.) Slightly bent decapping assembly
or pin.
c.) Berdan primed cases.d.) Dirt in shellplate pockets.
e.) Handle being moved too rapidly
on the down stroke.
f.) Rocks or other foreign objects in
cases.
Station 3: Primer Pocket Swaging
Problems
1.) Primers smearing or crushing:
a.) Swage back-up rod not down far
enough (#13332 or #13348).
b.) Swage rod not adjusted high
enough (#20314 - large or #20313 -
small).
Station 4: Priming Problems
The above photo shows the rocker
arm set screw (#13226) being adjusted.
The Super 1050 comes from the factory
with this set screw properly adjusted,
but over time it can move. When the
rocker arm set screw is out of adjust-
ment, it can dent primers and/or cause
the primer slide to stick. When proper-
ly adjusted, the primer punch (#12849
large - #13307 small) will be flush with
the platform surface – see arrow above.
1.) Crushed primers:
a.) Swage rod  (#20314 - large or
#20313 - small) not adjusted correctly,
dirty or worn out.
b.) Dirt in the shellplate (#12600*).
c.) Ringed primer. When a spent
primer has been pierced by the decap-
ping pin leaving a ring of metal from
the primer in the pocket.
d.) Primer station locator button
(#20637*) not adjusted correctly.
e.) Worn primer punch (#12849).
f.) The bench that the machine is
mounted on is not rigid enough. This
can be corrected by affixing a board to
both the wall and your bench.
g.) Hot-loaded ammo that has been
fired several times and the base of the
20
When reinstalling the ejector tab (#13189) it
is vital that it is not set too low or it will
interfere with the shellplate.primer punch