Kenmore Economizer 6 Owners Manual

							21
B. Deburring
Use a knife, plastic pipe deburring tool, or file to remove burrs from the end
of small diameter pipe.  Be sure to remove all burrs from around the inside
as well as the outside of the pipe.  A slight chamfer (bevel) of about 10°-
15° should be added to the end to permit easier insertion of the pipe into
the end of the fitting.  Failure to chamfer the edge of the pipe may remove
cement from the fitting socket, causing the joint to leak.
STEP B
C. Test dry fit of the joint
Tapered fitting sockets are designed so that an interfaced fit should
occur when the pipe is inserted about 1/3 to 2/3 of the way into the
socket. Occasionally, when pipe fitting dimensions are at the
tolerance extremes, it will be possible to fully insert dry pipe to the
bottom of the fitting socket.  When this happens, a sufficient quantity
of cement must be applied to the joint to fill the gap between the pipe
and fitting.  The gap must be filled to obtain a strong, leak-free joint.
D. Inspection, cleaning, priming
Visually inspect the inside of the pipe and fitting sockets and remove
all dirt, grease or moisture with a clean dry rag. If wiping fails to
clean the surfaces, a chemical cleaner must be used.  Check for
possible damage such as splits or cracks and replace if necessary.
Depth-of-entry
Marking the depth of entry is a way to check if the pipe has reached
the bottom of the fitting socket in Step F.  Measure the fitting depth
and mark this distance on the pipe O.D. You may want to add
several inches to the distance and make a second mark as the
primer and cement will most likely destroy your first one.
Apply primer to the surface of the pipe and fitting socket with a natural
bristle brush. This process softens and prepares the PVC or CPVC for
the solvent cementing step.  Move quickly and without hesitation to the
cementing procedure while the surfaces are still wet with primer.
E. Application of solvent cement
• Apply the solvent cement evenly and quickly around the outside of the
pipe at a width a little greater than the depth of the fitting socket.
• Apply a light coat of cement evenly around the inside of the
fitting socket.  Avoid puddling.
• Apply a second coat of cement to the pipe end.
                   
STEP E
F. Joint assembly
Working quickly, insert the pipe into the fitting socket bottom and
give the pipe or fitting a 1/4 turn to evenly distribute the cement. Do
not continue to rotate the pipe after it has hit the bottom of the fitting
socket. A good joint will have sufficient cement to make a bead all
the way around the outside of the fitting hub. The fitting will have a
tendency to slide back while the cement is still wet so hold the joint
together for about 15 seconds.
                             
STEP F
G. Cleanup and joint movement
Remove all excess cement from around the pipe and fitting with a
dry cotton rag. This must be done while the cement is still soft.
The joint should not be disturbed immediately after the cementing
procedure, and sufficient time should be allowed for proper curing
of the joint. Exact drying time is difficult to predict because it depends
on variables such as temperature, humidity and cement integrity.
For more specific information, you should contact your solvent
cement manufacturer.
                                
STEP G 
						

							22
FOR YOUR SAFETY READ BEFORE OPERATING
WARNING:  If you do not follow these instructions exactly, a fire or
explosion may result causing property damage, personal injury or loss of
life.
A. This appliance does not have a pilot.  It is equipped with
an ignition device which automatically lights the burner.
Do 
NOT try to light the burner by hand.
B.BEFORE OPERATING smell all around the appliance area
for gas. Be sure to smell next to the floor because some
gas is heavier than air and will settle on the floor.
WHAT TO DO IF YOU SMELL GAS:
• Do not try to light any appliance.
• Do not touch any electric switch;
Do not use any phone in your building.
• Immediately call your gas supplier from a neighbor’s phone.
Follow the gas supplier’s instructions.• If you cannot reach your gas supplier, call the fire
department.
C. Use only your hand to push in the gas control buttons.
Never use tools. If the control buttons will not push in,
don’t try to repair them, call a qualified service technician.
Force or attempted repair may result in a fire or explosion.
D. Do not use this appliance if any part has been under
water. Immediately contact a qualified installer or service
agency to replace a flooded water heater. Do not attempt
to repair the unit! It must be replaced!
OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
1. Set the thermostat to the lowest setting by first pressing the COOLER  and HOTTER   buttons together and holding
for 1 second. Then press the COOLER 
  button until the WARM indicator light appears.
2. Set the ON/OFF switch on the blower control box to the “OFF” position.
3. Turn off all electric power to the appliance if service is to be performed.
BEFORE OPERATING: ENTIRE SYSTEM MUST BE FILLED WITH WATER AND AIR  PURGED  FROM ALL LINES.
1. STOP!   Read the safety information above,
on this label.
2. Set the thermostat to the lowest setting by first pressing
the COOLER 
 and HOTTER  buttons together and
holding for 1 second. Then press the COOLER 
 button
until the WARM indicator light appears.
3. Set the “ON/OFF” switch on the blower control box to the
“OFF” position.4. This appliance is equipped with a device which
automatically lights the burner.
DO NOT TRY TO LIGHT THE BURNER BY HAND.
5. Wait five (5) minutes              to clear  out any gas.
If you then smell gas,                STOP!  Follow “B” in the
safety information above on this label. If you don’t smell
gas, go to the next step.
6. Turn on all electrical power to the appliance.
7. Set thermostat to desired setting by first pressing the
COOLER 
  and HOTTER   buttons together and
holding for 1 second. Then press the HOTTER 
button.
8. If the appliance will not operate, follow the instructions
“TO TURN OFF GAS TO APPLIANCE” and call your
technician or gas supplier.
9. WATER TEMPERATURE ADJUSTMENT
 is approximately 120°F.
CAUTION:  Hotter water increases the risk
of scald injury.  Consult the instruction
manual before changing temperature.
WARNING:  TURN OFF ALL ELECTRIC
POWER BEFORE SERVICING
TO TURN OFF GAS TO APPLIANCE
OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS 
						

							23
TEMPERATURE REGULATION
Due to the nature of the typical gas water heater, the water temperature
in certain situations may vary up to 30°F (16.7°C) higher or lower at the
point of use such as, bathtubs, showers, sink, etc.
Any water heater’s intended purpose is to heat water. Hot water is
needed for cleansing, cleaning, and sanitizing (bodies, dishes, clothing).
Untempered hot water can present a scald hazard. Depending on the
time element, and the people involved (adults, children, elderly, infirm,
etc.) scalding may occur at different temperatures.
It is recommended that lower water temperatures be used to avoid the
risk of scalding. It is further recommended, in all cases, that the water
temperature be set for the lowest temperature which satisfies your
hot water needs. This will also provide the most energy efficient
operation of the water heater.
Figure 26 shows the approximate water temperatures produced at
various thermostat settings. Short repeated heating cycles caused by
small hot water uses can cause temperatures at the point of use to
exceed the thermostat setting by up to 30°F (17°C). If you experience
this type of use you should consider using lower temperature settings
to reduce scald hazards.
Valves for reducing the point-of-use temperature by mixing cold and
hot water are available, see Figure 15. Also available are inexpensive
devices that attach to faucets to limit hot water temperatures. Contact
a licensed plumber or the local plumbing authority.
HOT WATER CAN SCALD: Water heaters are intended to produce hot
water. Water heated to a temperature which will satisfy space heating,
clothes washing, dish washing, and other sanitizing needs can scald
and permanently injure you upon contact. Some people are more likely
to be permanently injured by hot water than others. These include the
elderly, children, the infirm, or physically/mentally handicapped. If anyone
using hot water in your home fits into one of these groups or if there is
a local code or state law requiring a certain temperature water at the
hot water tap, then you must take special precautions. In addition to
using the lowest possible temperature setting that satisfies your hot
water needs, a means such as a mixing valve, shall be used at the hot
water taps used by these people or at the water heater. Mixing valves
are available at plumbing supply or hardware stores, see Figure 15.
Follow manufacturer’s instructions for installation of the valves. Before
changing the factory setting on the thermostat, read the “Temperature
Regulation” section in this manual, see Figure 26.
Never allow small children to use a hot water tap, or to draw their own
bath water. Never leave a child or handicapped person unattended in
a bathtub or shower.The water heater should be located in an area where the general
public does not have access.
The water temperature setting was factory set at the lowest
temperature; Pressing the “COOLER” 
  button decreases temperature
and pressing the “HOTTER” 
  button increases the temperature.
Setting the water heater temperature at 120°F (49°C) (Approx. “
”
mark on temperature setting of gas valve) will reduce the risk of scalds.
Some states require settings at specific lower temperatures.
To avoid any unintentional changes in water temperature settings, the
control has a tamper resistant feature for changing the temperature
setting. To change the temperature setting follow these instructions:
1. “Wake Up” the temperature indicators by holding down both
“COOLER” and “HOTTER” temperature adjustment buttons at the
same time for one second, see Figure 26. One or two of the
temperature indicators will light up. These indicators will only remain
on for 30 seconds if no further buttons are pressed. After 30 seconds
the control will go back to “Sleep” mode.
2. Release both of the temperature adjustment buttons.
a. To decrease the temperature press and release the “COOLER”
button until the desired setting is reached.
b. To increase the temperature press and release the “HOTTER”
button until the desired setting is reached.
NOTE: Holding down the button will not continue to lower or raise the
temperature setting. The button must be pressed and released for
each temperature change desired.
Should overheating occur or the gas supply fail to shut off, turn off the
manual gas control valve to the appliance.
Time to Produce
Display2nd and 3rd Degree
Temperature Setting A B CBurns on Adult Skin
  C-Flashing = approx. 160°F (71°C)About 1/2 seconds
  C = approx. 150°F (66°C)About 1-1/2 seconds
  B = approx. 140°F (60°C)Less than 5 seconds
  A = approx. 130°F (54°C)About 30 seconds
  = approx. 120°F (49°C)More than 5 minutes
  WARM = approx. 80°F (27°C)
- - - - - - - - - - - - -
FIGURE 26. 
						

							24
FOR YOUR INFORMATION
START UP CONDITIONS
CONDENSATE
Whenever the water heater is filled with cold water, some condensate
will form while the burner is on. A water heater may appear to be leaking
when in fact the water is condensate. This usually happens when:
a. A new water heater is filled with cold water for the first time.
b. Burning gas produces water vapor in water heaters, particularly
high efficiency models where flue temperatures are lower.
c. Large amounts of hot water are used in a short time and the refill
water in the tank is very cold.
Moisture from the products of combustion condense on the cooler tank
surfaces and form drops of water which may fall onto the burner or
other hot surfaces to produce a “sizzling” or “frying” noise.
Because of the suddenness and amount of water, condensate water
may be diagnosed as a “tank leak”. After the water in the tank warms
up (about 1-2 hours), the condition should disappear.
Do not assume the water heater is leaking until there has been enough
time for the water in the tank to warm up.
An undersized water heater will cause more condensation. The water
heater must be sized properly to meet the family’s demands for hot
water including dishwashers, washing machines and shower heads.
Excessive condensate may be noticed during the winter and early
spring months when incoming water temperatures are at their lowest.
Good venting is essential for a gas fired water heater to operate properly
as well as to carry away products of combustion and water vapor.
SMOKE/ODOR
It is not uncommon to experience a small amount of smoke and odor
during the initial start-up. This is due to burning off of oil from metal
parts, and will disappear in a short while.
THERMAL EXPANSION
Water supply systems may, because of such events as high line
pressure, frequent cut-offs, the effects of water hammer among
others, have installed devices such as pressure reducing valves, check
valves, back flow preventers, etc. to control these types of problems.
When these devices are not equipped with an internal by-pass, and no
other measures are taken, the devices cause the water system to be
closed. As water is heated, it expands (thermal expansion) and closed
systems do not allow for the expansion of heated water.
The water within the water tank expands as it is heated and increases
the pressure of the water system. If the relieving point of the water
heater’s temperature-pressure relief valve is reached, the valve will
release the excess pressure. The temperature-pressure relief
valve is not intended for the constant relief of thermal
expansion. This is an unacceptable condition and must be corrected.
It is recommended that any devices installed which could create a
closed system have a by-pass and/or the system have an expansion
tank or device to relieve the pressure built by thermal expansion in the
water system. Expansion tanks are available through Sears stores
and Sears Service Centers. Contact Sears Service Center for
assistance in controlling these situations, see Figure 27.
Thermal Expansion Tank Specifications
Ta n k                 DimensionsPipe
Model Capacity                 in Inches   Fitting
Number In GallonsDiameterLength On Tank
153.331020 2 8 (203 mm) 12-3/4 (323 mm) 3/4” Male
153.331050 5 11 (279 mm) 14-3/4 (375 mm) 3/4” Male
Expansion Tank Sizing Chart
Inlet*        Water Heater Capacity (Gallons)
Water
Pressure 30 40 50 66 80
Expansion40psi 2 2 2 5 5
Tank50psi 2 2 2 5 5
Capacity60psi 2 2 5 5 5
Needed70psi 2 2 5 5 5
80psi 2 5 5 5 5
*Highest recorded inlet water pressure in a 24 hour period or
regulated water pressure.
NOTE: Expansion tanks are pre-charged with a 40 psi air
charge.  If the inlet water pressure is higher than 40 psi, the
expansion tank’s air pressure must be adjusted to match
that pressure, but must not be higher than 80 psi.
      
      
FIGURE 27. 
						

							25
STRANGE SOUNDS
Possible noises due to expansion and contraction of some metal parts
during periods of heat-up and cool-down do not necessarily represent
harmful or dangerous conditions.
Condensation causes sizzling and popping within the burner area during
heating and cooling periods and should be considered normal. See
“Condensate” in this section.
OPERATIONAL CONDITIONS
SMELLY WATER
In each water heater there is installed at least one anode rod (see
parts section) for corrosion protection of the tank. Certain water
conditions will cause a reaction between this rod and the water. The
most common complaint associated with the anode rod is one of a
“rotten egg smell” in the hot water. The smell is a result of four factors
which must all be present for the odor to develop:
a. A concentration of sulfate in the supply water.
b. Little or no dissolved oxygen in the water.
c. A sulfate reducing bacteria which has accumulated within the water
heater (this harmless bacteria is nontoxic to humans).
d. An excess of active hydrogen in the tank. This is caused by the
corrosion protective action of the anode.
Smelly water may be eliminated or reduced in some water heater
models by replacing the anode(s) with one of less active material, and
then chlorinating the water heater tank and all water lines. Contact
Sears Service Center for further information concerning Anode
Replacement Kit #9001453 and this chlorination treatment. Anode
replacement and chlorination of the tank are not covered by the water
heater’s limited warranty.
If the smelly water persists after the anode replacement and chlorination
treatment, we can only suggest that chlorination or aeration of the
water supply be considered to eliminate the water problem.Do not remove the anode leaving the tank unprotected. By
doing so, all warranty on the water heater tank is voided.
“AIR” IN HOT WATER FAUCETS
HYDROGEN GAS: Hydrogen gas can be produced in a hot water
system that has not been used for a long period of time (generally two
weeks or more). Hydrogen gas is extremely flammable and explosive.
To prevent the possibility of injury under these conditions, we
recommend the hot water faucet, located farthest away, be opened
for several minutes before any electrical appliances which are
connected to the hot water system are used (such as a dishwasher or
washing machine). If hydrogen gas is present, there will probably be
an unusual sound similar to air escaping through the pipe as the hot
water faucet is opened. There must be no smoking or open flame near
the faucet at the time it is open.
HIGH WATER TEMPERATURE SHUT OFF SYSTEM
This water heater is equipped with an automatic gas shut-off system.
This system works when high water temperatures are present. Turn
“OFF” the entire gas supply to the water heater. The high temperature
shut-off is built into the gas control valve. It is non-resettable. If the high
temperature shut-off activates, the gas control valve must be replaced.
Contact your gas supplier or Sears Service Center.
SERVICE AND ADJUSTMENT
VENTING SYSTEM INSPECTION
At least once a year a visual inspection should be made of the venting
system.  You should look for:
1. Obstructions which could cause improper venting.  The combustion
and ventilation air flow must not be obstructed.2. Damage or deterioration which could cause improper venting or
leakage of combustion products.
Be sure the vent piping is properly connected to prevent escape of
dangerous flue gasses which could cause deadly asphyxiation.
Obstructions and deteriorated vent systems may present serious health
risk or asphyxiation.
Chemical vapor corrosion of the flue and vent system may occur if air for
combustion contains certain chemical vapors. Spray can propellants,
cleaning solvents, refrigerator and air conditioner refrigerants, swimming
pool chemicals, calcium and sodium chloride, waxes, bleach and process
chemicals are typical compounds which are potentially corrosive.
If after inspection of the vent system you found sooting or deterioration,
something is wrong.  Call the local gas utility to correct the problem and
clean or replace the flue and venting before resuming operation of the
water heater.
BURNER OPERATION AND INSPECTION
Flood damage to a water heater may not be readily visible or immediately
detectable. However, over a period of time a flooded water heater will create
dangerous conditions 
which can cause DEATH, SERIOUS BODILY INJURY,
OR PROPERTY DAMAGE. Contact 
Sears Service Center to replace a flooded
water heater. Do not attempt to 
repair the unit! It must be replaced! 
						

							26
At least once a year a visual inspection should be made of the main
burner and the hot surface igniter assembly for proper flame
characteristics and ignition sequences. This can be done by removing
the Outer Door and viewing the main burner operation through the
Viewport on the Inner Door, see Figure 1. The main burner should
provide complete combustion of gas, ignite rapidly, give reasonably
quiet operation, and cause no excessive flame lifting from the burner
ports. If the proper flame characteristics are not evident (see Figure
28), make sure that the flow of combustion and ventilation air is not
blocked on the Air Intake Screen at the base of the water heater (see
Figure 29), the Lint screen on the blower assembly (see Figure 1), and
in the venting system.
You should also check for sooting. Soot is not normal and will impair
proper combustion. A visual inspection of the main burner and HSI
igniter assembly should also be done at least once a year, see
Figure 28.
Soot build-up indicates a problem that requires correction before further
use.  Turn “OFF” gas to water heater and leave off until repairs are
made, because failure to correct the cause of the sooting can result in
a fire causing death, serious injury, or property damage.
FIGURE 28.
BURNER CLEANING
In the event your burner or burner air openings require cleaning, turn
the blower switch to the “OFF” position and allow the burner to cool.
Call Sears Service Center to remove and clean the burner and correct
the problem that required the burner to be cleaned.
HOUSEKEEPING
Vacuum around base of water heater for dust, dirt, and lint on a regular basis.
This water heater unit is supplied with a plastic Air Intake Screen that will
filter and prevent lint build-up on the bottom of the flame arrestor of this
heater. To prevent the lint build-up on the arrestor, the lint screen must be
installed on the Base Pan with the “arrows” pointing upwards as shown
in Figure 29. If the Air Intake Screen is missing from this heater, please
contact Sears Service Center for a replacement part.
FIGURE 29.
AT LEAST ONCE EVERY SIX MONTHS A VISUAL INSPECTION
SHOULD BE MADE OF THE AIR INTAKE SCREENS ON THE BASE
OF THE WATER HEATER AND THE BLOWER ASSEMBLY. CLEAN
IF LINT ACCUMULATIONS ARE NOTICED.
INSTALLED IN SUITABLE AREA: To insure sufficient ventilation and
combustion air supply, proper clearances from the water heater must
be maintained.  See “Facts to Consider About the Location” section.
Combustible materials such as clothing, cleaning materials, or flammable
liquids, etc. must not be placed against or adjacent to the water heater
which can cause a fire.
ANODE ROD INSPECTION
The anode rod is used to protect the tank from corrosion.  Most hot
water tanks are equipped with an anode rod.  The submerged rod
sacrifices itself to protect the tank.  Instead of corroding the tank,
water ions attack and eat away the anode rod.  This does not affect
the water’s taste or color.  The rod must be maintained to keep the tank
in operating condition.
Anode deterioration depends on water conductivity, not necessarily
water condition. A corroded or pitted anode rod indicates high water
conductivity and should be checked and/or replaced more often than
an anode rod that appears to be intact. Replacement of a depleted
anode rod can extend the life of your water heater. Inspection should
be conducted by a qualified technician, and at a minimum should be
checked annually after the warranty period.
TEMPERATURE-PRESSURE
RELIEF VALVE OPERATION
The temperature-pressure relief valve must be manually operated at
least once a year. 
						

							27
FIGURE  30.
When checking the temperature-pressure relief valve operation, make
sure that (1) no one is in front of or around the outlet of the temperature-
pressure relief valve discharge line, and (2) that the water discharge
will not cause any property damage, as the water may be extremely
hot, see Figure 30.
If after manually operating the valve, it fails to completely reset and
continues to release water, immediately close the cold water inlet to
the water heater, follow the draining instructions, and replace the
temperature-pressure relief valve with a new one.
If the temperature-pressure relief valve on the appliance weeps or discharges
periodically, this may be due to thermal expansion.  You may have a check
valve installed in the water line or a water meter with a check valve.  Consult
your local water supplier or Sears Service Center for  further information.  Do
not plug the temperature-pressure relief valve.
DRAINING
The water heater should be drained if being shut down during freezing
temperatures.  Also periodic draining and cleaning of sediment from the
tank may be necessary.
1. Set the blower switch to the “OFF” position.
2. CLOSE the cold water inlet valve to the water heater.
3. OPEN a nearby hot water faucet and leave open to allow fordraining.
4. Connect a hose to the drain valve and terminate to an adequate drain.5. OPEN the water heater drain valve to allow for tank draining.
NOTE: If the water heater is going to be shut down and
drained for an extended period, the drain valve should be
left open with hose connected allowing water to terminate
to an adequate drain.
6. CLOSE the drain valve.
7. Follow instructions in the “Filling The Water Heater” section.
8. Follow the lighting instructions on the label or see page 22 under
“Operating Instructions” to restart the water heater.
DRAIN VALVE WASHER REPLACEMENT
(See Figure 31)
1. Turn “OFF” gas supply to water heater.
2. Follow “Draining” instructions.
3. Turning counterclockwise ( 
 ), remove the hex cap below the
screw handle.
4. Remove the washer and put the new one in place.
5. Screw the handle and cap assembly back into the drain valve and
retighten using a wrench. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN.
6. Follow instructions in the “Filling The Water Heater” section.
7. Check for leaks.
8. Follow the lighting instructions in the “Operating Instructions” section
to restart the water heater.
FIGURE  31.
SERVICE
If a condition persists or you are uncertain about the operation of the
water heater contact Sears Service Center at 1-800-MY-HOME®
(1-800-469-4663). 
						

							28
LEAKAGE CHECKPOINTS
Read this manual first. Then before checking the water heater make
sure the gas supply has been turned “OFF”, and never turn the gas
“ON” before the tank is completely full of water.
Never use this water heater unless it is completely filled with water.  To
prevent damage to the tank, the tank must be filled with water.  Water
must flow from the hot water faucet before turning “ON” gas to the
water heater.
A. Water at the blower assembly is water vapor which has condensed
out of the combustion products.  This is caused by a problem in the
vent.  Contact the gas utility.
B. *Condensation may be seen on pipes in humid weather or pipe
connections may be leaking.
C. *The anode rod fitting may be leaking (anode is located under the
Blower Assembly).
D. Small amounts of water from temperature-pressure relief valve
may be due to thermal expansion or high water pressure in your
area.
E. *The temperature-pressure relief valve may be leaking at the tank
fitting.
F. Water from a drain valve may be due to the valve being slightly
opened.
G. *The drain valve may be leaking at the tank fitting.
H. Combustion products contain water vapor which can condense on
the cooler surfaces of the tank.  Droplets form and drip onto the
burner or run on the floor.  This is common at the time of start-up
after installation and when incoming water is cold.
I. Water in the water heater bottom or on the floor may be from
condensation, loose connections, or the relief valve.  DO NOT replace
the water heater until a full inspection of all possible water sources
is made and necessary corrective steps taken.
Leakage from other appliances, water lines, or ground seepage should
also be checked.
* To check where threaded portion enters tank, insert cotton swab
between jacket opening and fitting.  If cotton is wet, follow “Draining”
instructions in the “Periodic Maintenance” section and then remove
fitting.  Put pipe dope or teflon tape on the threads and replace.
Then follow “Filling the Water Heater” instructions in the “Installation
Instructions” section.Use this guide to check a “Leaking” water heater.  Many suspected
“Leakers” are not leaking tanks.  Often the source of the water can be
found and corrected.
If you are not thoroughly familiar with gas codes, your water heater, and
safety practices, contact Sears Service Center to check the water heater. 
						

							29
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDELINESTROUBLESHOOTING GUIDELINES
These guidelines should be used by a qualified service agent. Call Sears Service at 1-800-4-MY-HOME® (1-800-469-4663)
for assistance. Inform the associate that this is a “Flammable Vapor Ignition Resistant” Product.
PROBLEMSOLUTION
An open earth ground circuit to the 1. Check that the earth ground connection is
ignition system.properly connected.
2. Check that the ground conductor on the
water heater is properly connected.
Wiring error or a high resistance to 1. Check for proper connection of line
earth ground.neutral and hot wires.
2. Check that the water heater is securely
connected to earth ground.
Pressure switch remained closed longer 1. Pressure switch wiring is incorrect.
than 5 seconds after the call for 2. Replace pressure switch.
heat began.
Pressure switch remained open longer 1. Pressure switch wiring is incorrect.
than 5 seconds after the combustion 2. Pressure switch tubing not connected
blower was energized. correctly.
3. Air intake or exhaust obstructed.
Error in the hot surface ignitor circuit. 1. Check that all wiring is correct and secure.
2. Replace hot surface ignitor.
System in lockout. 1.Gas supply is off or too low to operate.
2. Hot surface ignitor not positioned
correctly.
3. Low voltage to the water heater.
4. Electric polarity to unit is incorrect - test
and correct.
Problem in the gas valve driver circuit. 1.Turn power to the water heater off for
10 seconds and the back on.
2. Replace gas control valve.
Problem with the internal circuit. 1.Turn power to the water heater off for
10 seconds and then back on.
2. Replace gas control valve.
Problem with the internal circuit. 1.Turn power to the water heater off for
10 seconds and then back on.
2. Replace gas control valve.
Flame signal sensed out of 1. Replace gas control valve.
proper sequence.
ECO activated. 1.Replace gas control valve.
One of the temperature adjust1. Press and release each of the buttons
buttons stuck closed.once.
2. Replace gas control valve.
Water temperature sensor is1. Check that all wiring is correct and secure.
either open or short circuited.2. Replace gas control valve.
Unit shuts down and in lockout. 1.Clean and reinstall the air intake screen.
2. Clean and reinstall the lint screen on the
Blower assembly.
Unit shuts down. 1. Check for correct wiring to FV sensor.
2. Check for open circuits to FV sensor.
3. Replace FV sensor.
Unit shuts down and in lockout. 1.FV sensor detected presence of flammable vapors.
2. Contact Sears Service Center to determine cause.
A      B     C
A      B     C
A      B     C
A      B     C
A      B     C
A      B     C
A      B     C
A      B     C
A      B     C
A      B     C
A      B     C
A      B     C
A      B     C
LED STATUS
WATER HEATER CONTROL
A      B     C
A      B     C
A      B     C 
						

							30
These guidelines should be utilized by a qualified service agent. When calling for service notify the service agent
that this is a “Flammable Vapor Ignition Resistant” Product.
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDELINES