Ruger Old Army Revolver Instructions Manual

							2. On the right side of the frame, forward of the cylinder, you will see a large
slotted pin that resembles a screw head (Part #CB02800). With a suitable tool
turn this pin counterclockwise until it stops (about 160o
). (See Fig. 13)
3. Unlatch the rammer lever and swing downward 90o
. (See Fig. 14)
4. Pull rammer/base pin assembly forward, towards the muzzle, until it comes
free of the revolver. (See Fig. 15)
5. The cylinder may then be removed from the left side of the frame.
(See Fig. 16)
To reassemble, simply
reverse this procedure.
21
Remove Loading Lever Assembly
Unlatch and Swing Loading
Lever Downward
Turn Screw Counter-Clockwise 
Remove
Cylinder
13
14
15
16 
						

							22
!WARNING–DISASSEMBLY
LOADED
The user of a RUGER® OLD ARMY® cap and ball revolver should carefully
read all disassembly directions and study all the illustrations and the Parts List in
this manual before attempting to take the gun apart. Know the names and
location of the parts before removing any of them. Although the revolver
mechanism is composed of only a few parts, it is essential that the disassembly
and reassembly operations be carried out with knowledge and care.
Only a few tools are required: A screwdriver or two to remove the grip panel
screw, grip frame screws, and to remove the hammer and trigger pivot screws.
The tip of the screwdriver blade should perfectly fit the screw slots. A tip too
large will scrape away metal, while too small a tip will damage the screw slots.
Before taking the gun apart, set up to do it properly. Cover the work surface with
a soft cloth so that the gun finish (and sights) will not be damaged, and provide a
tray into which the parts can be put as they are removed from the gun
.
DISASSEMBLY
(Make Sure Revolver is Unloaded!)
DETAILED DISASSEMBLY:
1. Remove cylinder (see “To Remove Cylinder” p. 20), rammer assembly and
base pin.
2. Push base pin retaining pin through from the left side.
3. Remove grip panel screw and lift grip panels away from grip frame.
4. Bring hammer back to full cock position and insert any convenient nail or
pin into the small hole at the lower end of the hammer strut; then press the 
trigger and permit the hammer to move to a forward position. (It will be
observed that the pin which has been placed in the hammer strut hole serves
to confine the mainspring.)
5. Remove the five screws which fasten the grip frame to the cylinder frame. In
separating the grip frame from the cylinder frame take care to prevent loss of 
Never clean, lubricate,
disassemble or work on a
revolver while it is loaded.Never
install or remove a loaded
cylinder. A loaded cylinder can
discharge if dropped or struck.
Read instructions before
disassembling gun.
UNLOAD BEFORE CLEANING
OR DISASSEMBLING 
						

							23
the pawl spring and plunger. These parts are located in a hole drilled from
the rear face of the cylinder frame, adjacent to the upper left screw hole.
6. Remove hammer pivot screw and hammer by unscrewing counter-clockwise.
7. Remove trigger pivot screw and trigger by unscrewing counter-clockwise.
8. With a small screwdriver free the fixed leg of the cylinder latch spring from
its anchoring hole on the left side wall of the cylinder frame.
9. Remove cylinder latch pivot, cylinder latch and spring.
10. It will be noted that the trigger spring and plunger are positioned in a hole in
the grip frame at the rear of the trigger guard bow. The innermost coil of the
trigger spring is enlarged to prevent its loss during disassembly and
reassembly, and care should be observed in removing the plunger and spring
to prevent deformation of the spring.
11. The hammer plunger is retained in the hammer by means of a pin which may
be removed by means of a small drift.
The revolver is, at this stage, disassembled as far as it needs to be for major
cleaning and maintenance.
NOTE:  Always use a good quality screwdriver which properly fits the screw slots
to avoid unsightly deformation of the screw heads.
REAR SIGHT: The adjustable rear sight (on models so equipped) can be removed
from the frame by drifting out the pivot pin (MR05600) and removing the
elevation screw (MR05902). Unless it is essential, the rear sight should not be
removed because there is a risk of losing the very small elevation springs. If the
sight is removed, when reassembling it is helpful to put a very tiny dab of
lubricating gun grease in the recesses of the sight base. The grease will ‘hold’ the
springs upright when the sight is positioned on the frame as the rear sight pivot
pin is being reinstalled.
REASSEMBLY
(Make Sure Revolver is Unloaded!)
Simply follow “Detailed Disassembly”(see pp. 22 & 23) and then “To Remove
Cylinder” (see p. 20) instructions in reverse order.
TO CLEAR A MALFUNCTION (“JAM”)
If the revolver becomes difficult to cock, this can usually be traced to four basic
causes (followed by the appropriate corrective action):
1. Accumulated black powder fouling (cease firing & clean gun).
2. Percussion cap fragments between cylinder & frame (carefully remove).
3. Percussion caps not fully seated on nipples (carefully reseat).
4. Projectile not fully seated into front of cylinder (carefully reseat 
after
removing all caps from cylinder).
If it becomes necessary to disassemble the revolver for clearing a jam, be sure to
unloadit first.Neverremove a capped cylinder from the revolver! 
						

							24
CARE AND CLEANING
Always be certain the revolver is completely unloaded before cleaning.
The chemical compounds formed by Black Powder residue are extremely
corrosive; under some conditions of humidity rusting will begin within a very
few hours after firing, if the revolver is left uncleaned. It is, therefore, important
that your “Old Army” be cleaned thoroughly and without delay after each use.
Timely attention to the simple procedures which follow will ensure that your
revolver remains in top condition for many years of use:
1.
Be sure revolver is unloaded!
2. Remove rammer/base pin assembly and cylinder from revolver. (See p. 20)
3. Place cylinder, base pin and bullet rammer in pan filled with hot water and
soap solution to soak.
4. Remove base pin retaining pin from frame (CB02800).
5. With muzzle pointed down so that water cannot enter the lockwork, flush the
barrel from the inside of cylinder frame with warm water, until water runs
clear from the muzzle.
6. Using a bristle or brass brush wetted with soap and water solution,
thoroughly scrub bore to remove all traces of fouling. Then, flush bore again
with very hot water. 
Do not permit water to enter the lockwork. Dry bore and
barrel/frame assembly thoroughly with clean cloth and set aside.
7. Thoroughly scrub cylinder and other parts in pan, flush with very hot water,
and then wipe dry.
8. Inspect all parts (including frame, hammer, etc.) to be sure that these are
clean and dry.
9. Oil the bore and all parts thoroughly with a good quality gun oil, then re-
assemble.
NOTE: Several firms offer Black Powder solvents and these may be used in place
of the soap and water solution. However, not all smokeless powder solvents will
render the fouling left by Black Powder non-corrosive. Be sure you use a solvent
specifically intended for black powder fouling.
Sometimes, lead build-up can occur in the chamber throats, in the forcing cone
of the barrel, and in the bore. If ‘leading’ is noted in your revolver, clean it out
before it builds up and interferes with reliable functioning and accuracy. A
special ‘lead removing’ cleaning tool (for bore and chambers) is available from
gun stores.
The revolver’s internal mechanism can be lubricated without disassembly. A few
drops of light oil recommended as suitable for firearms, applied periodically
about the various frame openings, will work its way into the mechanism parts.
The exterior of the revolver should be cleaned with a solvent and then wiped with
an oily cloth. 
						

							25
!WARNING–LUBRICATION
Firing a revolver with oil, grease, or any
other material even partially obstructing the
bore may result in damage to the revolver
and injury to the shooter and those nearby.
Do not spray or apply lubricants directly on
ammunition. If the powder charge of a
cartridge is affected by the lubricant, it may
not be ignited, but the energy from the
primer may be sufficient to push the bullet
into the bore where it may become lodged.
Firing a subsequent bullet into the
obstructed bore may damage the revolver
and cause injury to the shooter and those
nearby. Use lubricants properly. You are
responsible for the proper care and
maintenance of your firearms.
IMPROPER LUBRICATION
DESTROYS GUNS
STORAGE
GUNS SHOULD NOT BE STORED LOADED!
Do notkeep the revolver in a leather, fabric or canvas holster when it is stored.
These materials attract moisture, even though the holster may appear to be
perfectly dry.
TO RENDER THE REVOLVER INOPERATIVE
FOR SAFE STORAGE
With the muzzle pointed in a safe direction, finger off the trigger, and starting
with the hammer fully forward, pull the hammer back one “click” to the half-cock
loading notch. Be sure the cylinder rotates freely and check the nipples and
chambers to be sur
e the revolver is completely unloaded! Turn the slotted basepin
retaining pin assembly, located forwad of the cylinder, counter-clockwise until it
stops. Unlatch the rammer lever and swing downward 90º. Pull rammer/basepin
assembly forward, towards the muzzle, until it comes free of the revolver. The
cylinder may then be removed from the left side of the frame.
Store the cylinder and frame in different locations. When disassembled in this
manner, the revolver is inoperable. It is impossible to fire the revolver until the
cylinder and rammer/basepin assembly have been correctly replaced.
To reassemble the revolver for firing, with fingers off the trigger, put the hammer
in the half-cock loading notch, and reinsert cylinder into frame. Fully reinsert
rammer/basepin assembly. Swing the loading lever upward and snap into place.
Turn the basepin retaining pin assembly clockwise until it stops. Check to be sure
the cylinder rotates freely. 
USE THE LOCKING DEVICE SUPPLIED WITH THE REVOLVER FOR STORAGE.
(SEEPAGE6) 
						

							26
CARE OF STAINLESS STEEL REVOLVERS
Firearms made of stainless steel are relatively more resistant to corrosion than
blued steel firearms. However, you should still inspect it frequently and clean,
lubricate and apply an appropriate rust preventative as required.
Sometimes surface discoloration may be noted, particularly in the grip area of
stainless steel handguns, resulting from perspiration. Contact with some types of
holsters can also cause stains or rusting. Rusting may also occur as a result of
the handgun being exposed to moisture, humidity, salt air or chemicals.
Minor discoloration can usually be removed by rubbing the stained area with an
abrasive ink eraser, crocus cloth, or a “metal polishing” compound. When using
any of these abrasives, proceed with care and use light pressure to achieve a
blending of ‘color’ with those areas that are not discolored.
Exposed surfaces on the firearm should be cleaned and wiped dry after use or
after exposure to adverse conditions. If the firearm is to be stored, coat it with a
light film of oil or preservative.  
Never place or store any firearm in such
a manner that it may be dislodged.
Firearms should always be stored
securely and unloaded, away from
children and careless adults. Use the
locking device originally supplied with
this firearm for storage.
The use of a locking device or safety lock
is only one aspect of responsible firearms
storage. For increased safety, firearms
should be stored unloaded and locked in
a location that is both separate from their
ammunition and inaccessible to children
and any other unauthorized person.
STORE SECURELY & UNLOADED
WARNING–STORAGE
LOADED
The revolver is now reassembled and can be loaded and fired normally.
While the revolver is less likely to be used by unauthorized persons when
disassembled in the above manner, it is always safest to store any firearm with
the supplied locking device correctly installed, or to store the firearm in a gun
safe or other secure location away from children and unauthorized adults.
Guns should always be stored securely, unloaded
and separate from their
ammunition. 
						

							27
Where the firearm is in continuing use, and the presence of oil or grease would
be objectionable, then the external surfaces can be coated (after cleaning and
drying) with a paste wax formulated for use on metals. Apply the wax sparingly,
allow time for it to dry hard, then buff lightly with a soft cloth. When applying
the wax take care that it does not get into the mechanism or on the functioning
parts such as the bolt, trigger, magazine, etc. A properly applied hard wax coating
will not interfere with comfortable gun handling and it will provide a measure of
protection against the formation of rust.
SIGHTS
ADJUSTMENT (adjustable sight models only) –Each click of the sight
adjustment screw (either windage or elevation) will move the point of impact of
the bullet appr
oximately3/4” at a range of 25 yards. The height of the front sight
has been set to take advantage of the elevation adjustment in the rear sight,
considering the various ranges at which the gun is most likely to be used. Barrel
length and load used affects trajectory. Therefore the shooter should determine
sight settings by firing trials.
RIGHT
LEFT
To raisepoint of impact: turn screw
counterclockwise.
To lower
point of impact: turn screw
clockwise.
To move the point of impact to the right:
turn screw counterclockwise.
To move the point of impact to the left
:
turn screw clockwise.
SUGGESTED SIGHT PICTURE
Top of front sight even with top of
rear sight blade. 
Front sight centered in notch of rear
sight blade. Target bullseye centered
on top of front sight.
FIXED SIGHTS
(RUGER OLD ARMY FIXED SIGHT MODEL ONLY)
These revolvers feature a blade front sight and a fixed rear sight. They are factory
set to be on target at 25 yards and cannot be further adjusted.
UP
DOWN
ELEVATION WINDAGE  
						

							28
SERVICE AND PARTS POLICY
If you have any questions with regard to the performance of your revolver, please
write or call (603-865-2442) our Newport, New Hampshire Product Service
Department, fully describing all circumstances. If you should return your
revolver to the factory for repair, or order parts for it, please comply with the
following suggestions for prompt service:
SHIPPING FIREARMS FOR REPAIR
RUGER®OLD ARMY®CAP-AND-BALL revolvers returned to the
factory for repair should be sent to:  Sturm, Ruger & Company, Inc., Product
Service Department, 411 Sunapee Street, Newport, New Hampshire 03773.
Telephone (603) 865-2442. The complete revolver should be shipped. Please do
not send your holster, custom grip panels or other accessories with any revolver
being shipped to us. Guns should be sent prepaid. W
e will not accept collect
shipments.
The Federal Gun Control Act, as well as the laws of most States and localities, do
not prohibit an individual (who is not otherwise barred from purchasing or
possessing a firearm) from shipping a firearm directly to the manufacturer for
repair. However, before shipping your firearm to us, be certain that your State or
locality does not have a law or regulation which will prohibit you from receiving
it from us after it has been repaired. If such receiving is prohibited, then please
have a Federally Licensed Firearms dealer ship the gun to us. If your gun is sent
to us by a dealer, it will be returned to him after being repaired. If a handgun
(pistol or revolver) is shipped by an individual who does not hold a Federal
Firearms License, it must
be shipped via U.P.S. (Next Day Air) Persons who do
not hold a Federal Firearms License are prohibited by Federal law from shipping
a handgun by mail. Handguns mailed in violation of the law are impounded by
the Post Office.
Please do not include revolver case, sling, telescopic sights or custom accessories
with a firearm being shipped to the factory for service. 
DO NOT SEND GUN
BOXES OR LITERATURE THAT YOU CONSIDER TO BE COLLECTOR’S ITEMS
– THESE ARE INVARIABLY DAMAGED OR DESTROYED IN SHIPMENT.
Always
insure your shipment. 
Enclose a letter which includes your name, address, telephone number, serial
number and model of the firearm. Describe in detail the trouble you have
experienced with your firearm, or the work you wish to have done. Merely stating
that the firearm “needs repair” is inadequate information.
Work performed will bear a net minimum labor charge of $20.00 plus a $20.00
shipping and handling charge. The charge for rebluing the 
RUGER®OLD
ARMY®CAP-AND-BALL revolvers is $50.00 plus a $20.00 shipping and
handling charge. Custom gunsmithing service or nonstandard alterations are
NOT AVAILABLE from Ruger Service Departments.
WARNING: BEFORE SHIPPING ANY FIREARM, BE
ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN THAT IT AND ITS CYLINDER
ARE UNLOADED. DO NOT SHIP BLACK POWDER OR
PERCUSSION CAPS WITH A FIREARM.
! 
						

							29
ORDERING PARTS
Please contact the New Hampshire Product Service Department for parts
availability and current prices. All parts orders for the 
RUGER®OLD
ARMY®CAP-AND-BALLrevolver should be sent to : Sturm, Ruger & Co.,
Inc., Product Service Department, 411 Sunapee Street, Newport, New
Hampshire, 03773, 603-865-2442. 
We cannot comply with open account or C.O.D. orders. Payment in the form of a
check, money order, Visa or Mastercard must accompany your order. Credit Card
orders must include the account number, expiration date and whether it is a Visa
or Mastercard account. Minimum parts order is $1.00 plus $3.50 shipping and
handling charge. Order parts by Part Name and Part Number and include the
entire serial number of the firearm for which the parts are being ordered.There is
a minimum net labor charge of $20.00 plus $20.00 shipping and handling charge
if the parts are factory fitted. All factory fitted parts are fit on an exchange basis
only. We will not return the replaced parts.
Barrels, cylinders and a number of other component parts must be fitted at the
factory. Company policy is to proof-test and/or function fire all barrels after
fitting to the receivers in which they are to be used. This procedure ensures
maximum protection to our customers. The special proof-test ammunition used
in this testing is sold only to bonafide firearms manufacturers and is not
available to gun shops, gunsmiths, or individuals.
Because it is a serial numbered part, the cylinder frame of 
RUGER®NEW
MODEL SINGLE ACTION
revolvers is defined as a ‘firearm’ by Federal
Law and is not offered for sale as a component part.
Parts designated by an (*) must be factory fitted. These parts are fitted on an
exchange basis only. We will not return the replaced parts. We will not return
any part that is broken, malfunctioning, badly worn or has been modified. See
“Warning – Parts Purchasers” above.
It is the purchaser’s responsibility to be absolutely
certain that any parts ordered from the factory are
correctly fitted and installed. Firearms are
complicated mechanisms and IMPROPER FITTING
OF PARTS MAY RESULT IN A DANGEROUS
MALFUNCTION, DAMAGE TO THE FIREARM, AND
SERIOUS INJURY TO THE SHOOTER AND OTHER
PERSONS. The purchaser and installer of parts must
accept full responsibility for the correct adjustment
and functioning of the revolver after such installation.
PARTS MUST FIT CORRECTLY
WARNING–PARTS PURCHASERS 
						

							30
CAUTION: Firearm users are cautioned that a gun
containing modified, broken, malfunctioning, or
badly worn parts should not be fired.
!
IMPORTANT – REGARDING PARTS ORDERING.Ruger Old Army Percussion
revolvers are manufactured in Blued steel and Stainless steel versions.
WHEN
ORDERING PARTS BE SURE TO STATE WHETHER YOUR REVOLVER IS
BLUED OR STAINLESS. ALSO, INCLUDE THE COMPLETE SERIAL NUMBER. 
NOTE: 
A few components, as example sight blades and grip panels, are the same
for blued and stainless models.
BARREL NOTE: All barrels are marked with a safety message, (“Before using
gun, read warnings in Instruction Manual available free from Sturm, Ruger &
Co. Inc., Southport, CT, USA”).