Troy-Bilt 7 Hp Horse Manual

							21
• With planning, you can allow enough room between rows 
to cultivate. Leave room for the hood width, plus enough 
extra room for future plant growth. See Fig. 4-14.
Tilling on Slopes
If you must garden on sloping ground, please follow two very 
important guidelines: 
1. Till only on moderate slopes, never on steep inclines 
where footing is difficult review the safety rules in the Safe 
Operation Practices section.
2. It is recommend that you till up and down slopes rather 
than terracing. Tilling vertically on a slope allows maximum 
planting area and also leaves room for cultivating.
NOTE: When tilling on slopes, be sure the correct oil 
level is maintained in the engine (check every 1⁄2 hour of 
operation). The incline of the slope will cause the oil to 
slant away from its normal level and this can starve engine 
parts of required lubrication. Keep the engine oil level at 
the full point at all times.
Tilling up and down slopes:
• To keep soil erosion to a minimum, be sure to add enough 
organic matter to the soil so that it has good moisture 
holding texture and try to avoid leaving footprints or wheel 
marks. 
• When tilling vertically, try to make the first pass uphill 
as the tiller digs more deeply going uphill than it does 
downhill. In soft soil or weeds, you may have to lift the 
handlebars slightly while going uphill. When going 
downhill, overlap the first pass by about 1⁄2 the width of the 
tiller.
NOTE: For the best results, use the HIGH belt range and 
SLOW wheel speed lever position. See Changing Speed 
Belts in this section for more information on changing to 
high range.
Terrace Gardening:
• When a slope is too steep or too short for vertical tilling, 
it may be necessary to till across the slope and create 
terraced rows. Terraces are rows that are cut into the side of 
a slope, creating a narrow, but flat area on which to plant.
• On a long slope, you can make several terraces, one below 
the other. 
• Terraces should be only 2-to-3 feet wide. Digging too far 
into the side of the slope will expose poor subsoil that is 
unproductive for plants.
• To create a terrace, start at the top of the slope and work 
down. Go back and forth across the first row. See Fig. 4-15.
• Each succeeding lower terrace is started by walking below 
the terrace you’re preparing. For added stability of the 
tiller, always keep the uphill wheel in the soft, newly tilled 
soil. Do not till the last 12” or more of the downhill outside 
edge of each terrace. This untilled strip helps prevents the 
terraces from breaking apart and washing downhill. It also 
provides a walking path between rows.
Tilling across slopes without terracing:
• If vertical or terracing gardening aren’t practical for you, 
then you can till laterally across a slope. We don’t really 
recommend this method as it can create unsure footing 
and invites soil erosion.
• Study the terrain to make certain the slope is not too 
Steep for safe tilling. If possible, make terraced rows or till 
ver tically.
Figure 4-14
1
2
3
12" UNTILLED
1REPEAT
DOWNHILL UPHILL
Figure 4-15
SECTION 5 
						

							22
• Standing cornstalks of reasonable height can be power 
composted. See Fig. 4-17. Pushing over (but not uprooting) 
cornstalks will often make it easier for your tiller to chop 
up the stalks. Keep the tines clear of excessive tangling 
by “fishtailing” or frequently using reverse. Make several 
passes, then return a few days later to finish off any 
remaining stubble.
• After tilling under crop residues, add more organic 
matter such as leaves, grass clippings and even kitchen 
scraps. When tilled into the soil, this organic matter will 
decompose and add even more important nutrients to the 
soil.
• After power composting, you may want to plant a “green 
manure” cover crop to protect the soil during the off-
season. Grow a crop of clover, alfalfa, buckwheat, peas, 
beans, rye grass, grain, or kale and then till it into the soil 
prior to the planting season.
Wide-Row Planting
The wide-row planting technique is spreading seeds anywhere 
from 10 inches to 2 feet wide or more. As a result, you can grow 
anywhere from 3 to 4 times (or more) produce in the same space 
that is normally set aside for an area that has narrow, single rows.
Wide-row planting automatically shades the ground which keeps 
weed growth down and also holds moisture in the soil. And of 
course, harvesting is much easier — everything is right at hand 
to be picked. Preparing wide rows is easy — after you prepare 
the seedbed and mark off the rows with string, hand-broadcast 
the seeds as if seeding a lawn — not quite as much as lawn seed). 
Cover with soil and tamp the area firmly with a hoe.
Figure 4-17
• Move the belt into LOW belt range and the Wheel Speed 
Gear Lever to SLOW position. As in terrace gardening, start 
at the top of the slope and overlap the first pass by half the 
width of the tiller. For added stability, keep the uphill wheel 
in the soft, newly tilled soil. Each succeeding terraced area 
is started by walking below the terrace you are preparing. 
See Fig. 4-16.
Power Composting
Power composting means tilling under and burying in the soil 
all manner of organic matter such as crop residues, leaves, grass 
clippings and cover crops. This material will decompose during 
the non-growing season and add important natural nutrients to 
the soil.
WARNING! When power composting, do not keep 
the Depth Regulator Lever at a deep setting if the 
tiller jumps or bucks. If jumping or bucking occurs, 
move the Depth Regulator Lever down to one of the 
shallower settings and then slowly increase the 
tilling depth on later passes. Failure to comply could 
result in loss of tiller control, property damage or 
personal injury.
• Begin by composting crop residues such as leftover vines, 
stalks, stems and roots. Power compost these crop residues 
as soon as they finish bearing. The sooner this is done, the 
better, as tender green matter is easier to till under. Use the 
deepest depth regulator setting possible without causing 
the engine to labor or the tiller to jump ahead.
Figure 4-16
SECTION 5
						

							23
Tilling Under Corn
After corn is harvested, the stalks should be tilled into the soil 
while still green. Dry plants are more difficult to till under, and 
the roots break loose too easily. 
NOTE: Do not pull the roots out by hand or cut the stalks before 
tilling. Stalks that are firmly anchored by their roots are much 
easier for the tines to chop, cut, and work under.
1. As you move forward into a row of stalks, aim the tiller 
so that the stalks go between the left wheel and the 
transmission case. See Fig. 4-17. Do not use the right wheel 
because damage could occur to the air cleaner, carburetor 
or throttle linkage.
2. Each new pass should overlap the previous pass by one-
half the width of the tiller.
3.  Till as deeply as possible. Pull the Depth Regulator all the 
way UP and engage the lowest notch for deep tilling. Use 
either LOW or HIGH belt range and SLOW wheel speed gear 
position. Let the tilled-in stalks decompose for a week or 
so. Then till in the remaining residue as deep as possible.
PTO Power Feature
Your tiller is a self-contained PTO (Power Take-Off ) Power 
machine that was shipped with a tine attachment installed. The 
tine attachment can be quickly removed and replaced with other 
optional attachments. See Fig. 4-18. The following instructions 
will familiarize you with your PTO Power machine. Please read 
these pages carefully. The following steps explain how to remove 
and replace the tine attachment. You will need a 3⁄4” wrench, 
minimum 12” long for leverage.
NOTE: Before operating your PTO Power machine for the first 
time, make sure that you have Read all the safety instructions in 
the Safe Operation Practices section of this manual and in the 
as well as the manual supplied with any attachment. Read the 
controls information and operating procedures for the tiller and 
engine described in the Assembly & Set-Up and the Controls & 
Features sections. Also be sure to read the Engine Operator’s 
Manual. 
Removing the Tine Attachment
1. Move the tiller to level ground.
2. Be sure the engine is stopped, the electric start key is 
removed, and the spark plug wire is disconnected and 
moved away from the spark plug.
3.  Place a sturdy support under the engine to prevent the 
engine from tipping forward when the tine attachment is 
removed. See Fig. 4-19.
4. Place the Wheels/Tines/PTO Drive Lever into NEUTRAL.
5. Place Tines/PTO Clutch Lever in DISENGAGE.
6. Place Wheel Speed Lever into FREE WHEEL.
7. Loosen the two swing-out bolts that connect the power 
transmission to the tine attachment. See Fig. 4-20.
Figure 4-12
Figure 4-19
Swing-Out Bolts
Figure 4-20
SECTION 5 
						

							24
8. Then move the swing-out bolts out. See Fig. 4-21.
NOTE: Loosening swing-out bolts can be difficult. Use an 
extra-long wrench for leverage.
9. Tip the PTO power machine forward about one inch with 
one hand while pulling the tine attachment back. Fig. 4-22.
10. The guide pin on the power unit will slide out of the guide 
hole in the tine attachment See Fig. 4-23.
Installing the Tine Attachment
1. Move the two PTO Power Unit swingout bolts outward and 
slide the washers up against the bolt heads.
2. Remove the support block from under the engine and 
slowly roll the power unit back next to the tine attachment. 
Place the support block back under the engine.
3.  Remove the dust cap (or protective wrapping) from the 
dog clutch coupling on the tine attachment.
4. Carefully align the guide pin on the PTO Power Unit with 
the alignment hole in the tine attachment and bring the 
two units together. See Fig. 4-23.
5. Move the two swing-bolts into the slots of the tine 
attachment. Alternately tighten each bolt until they are 
tight enough to make the concave washers flat. The bolts 
must be very tight — if you have a torque wrench, tighten 
each bolt to between 70 and 80 ft.-lbs.
NOTE: The swing-bolts must be kept very tight to prevent 
damaging wear to the dog clutch coupling, alignment pin 
or the alignment hole. Check the bolt tightness every 2-1⁄2 
operating hours.
6. Remove the engine support before moving the tiller in a 
forward direction.
Swing-Out Bolt
Figure 4-21
Guide Pin
Mounting Hole
Figure 4-22
Mounting Hole
Guide Pin
Figure 4-23
SECTION 5
						

							25
Moving the Tiller
When the engine is running, the tiller’s powered wheels make 
moving the tiller to and from the garden easy. If the engine is not 
running, set the Wheel Speed Lever to FREEWHEEL position to 
roll the tiller to another location.
WARNING! To help avoid personal injury from 
revolving tines, always put the Tines/PTO Clutch 
Lever in DISENGAGE position before transporting, 
loading, or unloading tiller.
1. Place the Tines/PTO Clutch Lever in DISENGAGE position.
2. Move the Depth Regulator Lever down all the way into the 
Travel setting.
3.  If using engine power, move Wheel Speed Lever to either 
SLOW or FAST, and use the Wheels/Tines/PTO Drive Lever 
to drive the wheels.
4. If the engine is stopped, move Wheel Speed Lever to  
FREEWHEEL, and manually push the tiller.
Loading & Unloading the Tiller
The following provides information on tiller loading, unloading, 
and requirements before loading and unloading the tiller. Read 
the following instructions carefully before attempting to load or 
unload your tiller.
Follow these steps before loading or unloading the Tiller
• Ramps must be strong enough to support the combined 
weight of the tiller and the operator. They should provide 
good traction to prevent slipping; they should have side 
rails to guide the tiller along the ramps; and they should 
have a locking device to secure them to the vehicle.
• Operators should wear sturdy footwear that will help to 
prevent slipping.
• Turn the vehicle’s engine off and apply its parking brake.
• Position the loading vehicle so that the ramp angle is as flat 
as possible (the less incline to the ramp, the better)
Loading the Tiller
1. Use loading ramps that are strong and wide enough 
to safely hold the weight of the tiller and the operator 
combined — your tiller weighs between 280 and 325 lbs.
2. Move the Tines/PTO Clutch Lever into DISENGAGE position. 
3.  Set the Depth Regulator lever to the Travel position.
4. Move Wheel Speed Lever into SLOW position and reduce 
the engine throttle speed.
5. Shift the Wheels/Tines/PTO Lever into FORWARD position 
and follow the tiller up the ramps. Check the wheels as 
you move the tiller forward. Ensure that they move up the 
center of each ramp.
6. Prevent the tiller from rolling in the vehicle. Leave Wheel 
Speed Lever in FAST or SLOW position, chock the wheels 
with blocks and tie down the tiller.
Unloading the Tiller
NOTE: Never unload the tiller in FORWARD drive. The tiller 
could tip forward and expose you to the tines (which should be 
disengaged as instructed).
1. Use loading ramps that are strong and wide enough 
to safely hold the weight of the tiller and the operator 
combined — your tiller weighs between 280 and 325 lbs.
2. Move the Tines/PTO Clutch Lever to DISENGAGE position.
3.  Set the Depth Regulator Lever to the TRAVEL position.
4. Move Wheel Speed Lever to SLOW position and reduce the 
engine throttle speed.
NOTE: Look behind you before you back down the ramp to 
ensure that all is clear. While descending, keep checking for 
obstacles behind you.
5. Move and hold the Wheels/Tines/PTO Lever into REVERSE 
drive and back down the ramps. Check the wheels as you 
move the tiller backward. Ensure that they move down the 
center of each ramp.
SECTION 5 
						

							26
WARNING! Before inspecting, cleaning or 
servicing the tiller, shut off the engine and wait for 
all the parts to come to a complete stop. Disconnect 
the spark plug wire and move the wire away from 
the spark plug. Remove the ignition key on the 
electric start models. Failure to follow these 
instructions can result in serious personal injury or 
property damage.
Maintenance
Engine
Refer to the Engine Operator’s Manual packed with your machine 
for all engine maintenance.
Tire Pressure
Check the air pressure in both tires every 30 operating hours. 
Deflate or inflate both tires evenly to 15- to 20-PSI (pounds per 
square inch).
Be sure that both tires have the same air pressure or the tiller will 
tend to pull to one side.
Maintenance Schedule
After 2-hour Break-In Before Each 
Use Every 10 
Hours Every 25 
Hours Every 30 
Hours Refer to En
-
gine Manual
Check Engine Oil Level
P
Clean Engine Cooling SystemP
Test Operation of FWD. Interlock Safety SystemP
FWD. Interlock Safety System — Check Wire 
Condition/Connections
P P
Check Electrical ConnectionsP
Recharge Battery
Check Drive Belt Tension
PP
Check Nuts and BoltsPPP
Clean Tiller Tine ShaftPP
Lubricate TillerPP
Check Gear Oil Lever in Both TransmissionsP PPP
Check Bolo Tines for WearP
Check Reverse Disc for WearP
Check Air Pressure in TireP
Maintenance & Adjustments6  
						

							27
Battery
WARNING! When removing the battery, always 
disconnect the negative (-) cable first followed by 
the positive (+) cable. Reverse this procedure when 
reinstalling the battery. 
The battery is sealed and is maintenance free. Acid levels cannot 
be checked.
• Always keep the battery cables and terminals clean and 
free of corrosive build-up.
• After cleaning the battery and terminals, apply a light coat 
of petroleum jelly or grease to the terminals and cover both 
terminals with the rubber boots.
Tine Shaft
After every 10 operating hours, remove the left- and right-side 
Bolo Tine holders and clear away dirt and debris that have 
accumulated on the tine shaft or inside the tine holders. Please 
follow this maintenance recommendation, as debris can cause 
premature wear to the tine shaft and its oil seals. Refer to the 
previous tine holder removal instructions. After cleaning away 
any debris and removing old grease from the tine shaft, apply 
fresh grease to the tine shaft.
Wheel Shaft Maintenance
After every 10 operating hours, remove the wheels and clear 
away dirt and debris that has accumulated on the wheel shaft 
Please follow this maintenance recommendation, as debris can 
cause premature wear to the wheel shaft and its oil seals.
1. Prop the transmission up with a sturdy block to raise the 
wheels off the ground.
2. Remove the wheels by removing the hex bolt and lock nut 
which secures each to the wheel shaft. 
3.  After cleaning away any debris and removing old grease, 
apply fresh grease to the wheel shaft before re-installing 
the wheels.
Hardware
Check for loose or missing hardware every ten (10) operating 
hours. Failure to tighten or replace fasteners can cause poor 
performance, equipment damage or oil leakage. Most hardware 
on your tiller is visible. Pay particular attention to hardware listed 
below.
Transmission Pulley Mounting Bolt
• If the washer behind the bolt head is loose, the bolt 
needs tightening. To do this, first insert a punch or thick 
screwdriver into the hole next to the bolt and wedge the 
tool against the side of the motor mount casting. This 
immobilizes the pulley while you tighten the bolt. See Fig. 
6 -1.
Neutral Plunger Assembly Jam Nut
• The jam nut is located on the left side of the neutral 
plunger. If loose, immobilize bolt head with one wrench 
and use another wrench to tighten the nut. See Fig. 6-2.
Mounting Bolt
Figure 6-1
Jam Nut
Figure 6-2
SECTION 6 
						

							28
Rear Bearing Cap Screws
• The three rear bearing cap screws are located under the 
depth regulator mounting bracket. If any are loose, it can 
cause an oil leak or drive shaft end play. See Fig. 6-3.
Housing Cover Bolts
• Check the five bolts securing the tiller housing cover to the 
left side of the transmission. Gear oil can leak from a loose 
housing cover. To reach the bolts, remove the left side tine 
holder. See Tine Replacement in the Service section.
Swing Bolts
• Check both of the swing-bolts that connect the power unit 
transmission to the tine attachment. Both bolts should be 
checked every 2-1⁄2  hours of operation. If loose, wear can 
occur on the locating pin on the power unit, and cause 
enlargement of the locating hole in the tine attachment. 
Using a torque wrench, tighten these bolts to 70-to-80 
ft.-lbs. 
Lock Nut on the Shifting Linkage
• Check the locknut that fastens the shifting linkage to the 
eccentric shifting lever. See Fig. 6-3. Do not tighten the 
locknut against the eccentric lever. It should be very close 
to, but not touching the lever.
Tine Hardware
• Check the four bolts and nuts securing left and right tine 
holders to the tine shaft. See Fig. 6-4.
Transmission Gear Oil
Checking for oil leaks
• At 25-hour operation intervals, check the tiller for oil leaks. 
Inspect for oil accumulations on the tiller or the floor where 
it is stored.
• A small amount of oil seepage or wetness around a 
shaft opening or cover is no cause for alarm. But a heavy 
concentration of oil is more serious. You should tighten all 
bolts immediately, and replace any worn seals or gaskets. 
• It may be impossible to determine how much oil has been 
lost, so check the oil levels in the PTO transmission and 
the tine attachment before using the tiller again. Add any 
necessary gear oil. Serious damage to the transmission 
components can result from operation when gear oil levels 
are low.
Tine Hardware
Figure 6-4
Cap Screw
Bolt
Swing Bolt
Lock Nut
Eccentric Lever
Power Unit 
Transmission
Figure 6-3
SECTION 6
						

							29
4. Use a 3⁄8” wrench to remove the oil level check plug on the 
left side of the transmission housing. See Fig. 6-6.
5. If the oil level is correct, oil will seep out of the check hole 
(allow extra time in cold weather). If it does, the level is fine 
and you should replace the check plug. If no oil seeps out 
add oil as demonstrated in the Adding Oil Section on the 
next page.
Tine Attachment Oil Level
NOTE: Two different gear oil checking procedures for the tine 
attachment transmission are described next. Use the first 
procedure if the dipstick in your tine attachment has only a 
‘Check Cold’ marking. Use the second procedure if the dipstick 
has both cold and hot markings at the end. First remove the 
dipstick from the tine attachment transmission to see which type 
of dipstick you have. See Fig. 6-7. Then replace the dipstick with 
the markings on the dipstick facing to the rear.
• If tilling during very hot weather, the gear oil may heat up 
and expand inside the transmissions. To allow for this oil 
expansion, both the power unit transmission and the tine 
attachment transmissions have oil relief vents. See Fig. 6-5. 
• The vents allow small amounts of oil to seep out. 
• If a serious leak is discovered, please contact your 
authorized dealer or the TROY-BILT Technical Service 
Department for service advice.
Checking Gear Oil Levels
Every 30 hours of operation, check the gear oil level in both the 
power unit transmission and the tine attachment transmission. 
Operating them while low on gear oil — even briefly — can 
cause serious damage to internal components.
1. The transmissions must be cool, since hot gear oil expands 
and gives a false reading.
2. The power unit transmission and the tine attachment 
transmission must be connected when checking — or 
adding — gear oil.
3.  Move the tiller to level ground. Move the Depth Regulator 
up so the tines rest on the ground.
Gear Oil Dipstick
Back of
Tine Shield
Figure 6-7
Oil Level Check Plug
Figure 6-6
Figure 6-5
Oil Vents
SECTION 6 
						

							30
For dipsticks With ‘Check Cold’ Marking (Cold means 2 hours 
have passed since the tiller was used.)
1. Move the tiller to level ground. 
2. Pull the Depth Regulator Lever back, then push it down all 
the way (to engage its top notch).
3.  Place a sturdy support under the engine to prevent the 
tiller from tilting too far.
4. Now slide three pieces of 2” x 4” lumber underneath the 
drag bar — raising the drag bar about 4-1⁄2” above ground. 
This elevation allows an accurate “cold” gear oil reading .
5. Wait two hours with tiller elevated (allow more time if 
temperature is below 40ºF).
6. Loosen and remove the transmission dipstick on the back 
of the tine shield. See Fig. 6-7. Wipe it clean with a rag.
7. Hold the dipstick so its markings face to the rear of tiller. 
Lower it straight down into the sump hole to touch the 
drive shaft inside. See Fig. 6-7. Don’t force or try to thread it 
back in; an incorrect reading will result.
8. Remove the dipstick and check the oil level. It should be 
anywhere within the crosshatched area or even slightly 
above the Max marking. If correct, replace the dipstick and 
remove the boards used as props. 
9.  If the oil level was low, gear oil must be added before using 
the tiller. See Adding or Changing Gear Oil.
For Dipsticks With Hot/Cold Markings
1. Move the tiller to level ground.
2. Pull the Depth Regulator Lever back, then push it down all 
the way (to engage its top notch).
3.  Place a sturdy support under the engine to prevent the 
tiller from tilting too far.
4. Cold reading (preferred method): (Two hours has passed 
since the tiller was used.) Place a 2” x 4” board (on edge) 
under the drag bar — raising the tiller and drag bar about 
3-1⁄2” above ground. Hot reading: (Tiller was operated for 
more than 30 minutes within the past hour.) Do not use the 
wood prop to elevate the tiller.
5. Follow Steps 4, 5 and 6 given for the other dipstick type.
6. Remove the dipstick and check the level. It should be 
within or above the “Cold” range marking if taking a cold 
reading. If taking a hot reading, the level should be within 
or slightly above the “Hot” range.
7. If the level is incorrect, see Adding or Changing Gear Oil.
Adding or Changing Gear Oil
For partial fill-ups (just a few ounces or less), use SAE 140, SAE 
85W-140, or SAE 80W-90 weight gear oil with an API rating of 
GL-4 or GL-5. For full replacement, use SAE 140 or SAE 85W-140 
gear oil with an API rating of GL-4 only. (At the factory, SAE 85W-
140 weight gear oil is used.)
NOTE: Do not use automatic transmission fluid or engine oil. 
They are too light in weight and will result in transmission 
damage. 
NOTE: The gear oil does not need to be changed. Do so only if 
you know, or suspect, it is contaminated with dirt, sand or other 
foreign particles. 
Gear oil is available at authorized dealers and most service 
stations, power equipment centers, or farm/heavy equipment 
outlets. 
Capacities: The Power Unit transmission holds approximately 
60 ounces and the Tine Attachment transmission holds 
approximately 12-1⁄2” ounces.
Adding Gear Oil to the PTO Power Unit Transmission
1.  Do steps 1 and 2 of Checking the Power Unit Oil Level.
2. Using a 3⁄4” wrench (or socket), remove the bolt securing 
the handlebar base to the top of the transmission (prop 
the handlebars first to prevent them from falling). Then, 
unplug the Forward Interlock wire harness receptacle at 
the bottom of the handlebars. Set the handlebar base and 
bolt aside on a clean surface. The bolt hole in the top of the 
transmission is the gear oil fill hole. See Fig. 6-7.
3.  Slowly pour gear oil through a clean funnel into the 
transmission. Stop when gear oil begins to flow from the 
oil level check hole on the left side of the transmission. See 
Fig. 6-7.
4. Reinstall the oil level check plug. Tighten it securely.
5. Reinstall the handlebars using the mounting bolt 
previously removed. Align the handlebars so they point 
straight backwards, not at an angle. Then tighten the 
mounting bolt securely.
6. Reconnect the Forward Interlock wire harness to the 
receptacle. Be certain it’s secure.
7. Test the operation of the Forward Interlock Safety System. 
See Forward Interlock System on the next page.
Draining and Filling the PTO Power Unit Transmission
1.  Place a shallow pan under the transmission gear oil drain 
plug. See Fig. 6-8.
2. Remove the oil level check plug with a 3⁄8” wrench. This 
vents the transmission for faster oil draining.
Oil Level Check Plug
Gear Oil
Fill Hole
Gear Oil
Drain
Figure 6-8
SECTION 6