Ryobi Bt31001 Manual

							Page 21
OPERATION
Fig. 21 PUSHBLOCKSPUSHSTICKS 
Use the right type of blade for the cut being made.

Use the blade guard assembly for all through cuts.
CUTTING AIDS
See Figure 21.
Pushsticks are devices used for safely pushing a workpiece
through the blade instead of using your hands. They can be
made in various sizes and shapes from scrap wood to use in
a specific project. The stick must be narrower than the
workpiece, with a 90˚ notch in one end and shaping for a grip
on the other end.
A pushblock has a handle fastened by recessed screws from
the underside. Use it on non-through cuts.
CAUTION:
Be sure the screw is recessed to avoid damaging the saw
or workpiece.
BASIC OPERATION OF THE TABLE SAW
A table saw can be used for straight-line cutting operations
such as cross cutting, ripping, mitering, beveling, and com-
pound cutting. It can make dado or molding cuts with optional
accessories.
The 3-prong plug must be plugged into a matching outlet that
is properly installed and grounded according to all local
codes and ordinances. Improper connection of the equip-
ment can result in electric shock. Check with an electrician or
service personnel if you are unsure about proper grounding.
Do not modify the plug; if it will not fit the outlet, have the
correct outlet installed by a qualified electrician. Refer to the
Electrical page of this manual.
Note: This table saw is designed to cut wood and wood
composition products only.
CAUSES OF KICKBACK
Kickback can occur when the blade stalls or binds, kicking
the workpiece back toward you with great force and speed.
If your hands are near the sawblade, they may be jerked
loose from the workpiece and may contact the blade. Obvi-
ously, kickback can cause serious injury, and it is well worth
using precautions to avoid the risks.
Kickback can be caused by any action that pinches the blade
in the wood, such as the following:

Making a cut with incorrect blade depth

Sawing into knots or nails in the workpiece

Twisting the wood while making a cut

Failing to support work

Forcing a cut

Cutting warped or wet lumber

Using the wrong blade for the type of cut

Not following correct operating procedures

Misusing the saw

Failing to use the anti-kickback pawls

Cutting with a dull, gummed-up, or improperly set blade
AVOIDING KICKBACK

Always use the correct blade depth setting. The top of
the blade teeth should clear the workpiece by 1/8 in. to
1/4 in.

Inspect the work for knots or nails before beginning a cut.
Knock out any loose knots with a hammer. Never saw into
a loose knot or nail.

Always use the rip fence when rip cutting and the miter
gage when cross cutting. This helps prevent twisting the
wood in the cut.

Always use clean, sharp, and properly-set blades. Never
make cuts with dull blades.

To avoid pinching the blade, support the work properly
before beginning a cut.

When making a cut, use steady, even pressure. Never
force cuts.

Do not cut wet or warped lumber.

Always hold your workpiece firmly with both hands or with
pushsticks. Keep your body in a balanced position to be
ready to resist kickback should it occur. Never stand
directly in line with the blade.WARNING:
Never stand directly in line with the blade or allow hands
to come closer than 3 inches to the blade. Do not reach
over or across the blade. Failure to heed this warning can
result in serious personal injury.
CUTTING TIPS
Dado and rabbet cuts are non-through cuts which can be
either rip cuts or cross cuts. Carefully read and understand
all sections of this owner’s manual before attempting any
operation.
WARNING:
All blades and dado sets must be rated for at least 5,500
RPM to prevent possible injury. 
						

							Page 22
OPERATION
Fig. 22 Bevel Rip CutRip Cut Cross Cut
Miter Cut
Compound (Bevel) Miter CutBevel Cross Cut
1

The kerf (the cut made by the blade in the wood) will be
wider than the blade to avoid overheating or binding.
Make allowance for the kerf when measuring wood.

Make sure the kerf is made on the waste side of the
measuring line.

Cut the wood with the finish side up.

Knock out any loose knots with a hammer before making
the cut.

Always provide proper support for the wood as it comes
out of the saw.
TYPES OF CUTS
See Figure 22.
There are six basic cuts: 1) the cross cut, 2) the rip cut, 3) the
miter cut, 4) the bevel cross cut, 5) the bevel rip cut, and 6)
the compound (bevel) miter cut. All other cuts are combina-
tions of these basic six. Operating procedures for making
each kind of cut are given later in this section.
WARNING:
Always make sure the blade guard and anti-kickback
pawls are in place and working properly when making
these cuts to avoid possible injury.
Cross cuts are straight 90° cuts made across the grain of the
workpiece. The wood is fed into the cut at a 90° angle to the
blade, and the blade is vertical.
Rip cuts are made with the grain of the wood. To avoid
kickback while making a rip cut, make sure one side of the
wood rides firmly against the rip fence.
Miter cuts are made with the wood at any angle to the blade
other than 90°. The blade is vertical. Miter cuts tend to
“creep” away from the miter fence during cutting. This can be
controlled by holding the workpiece securely against the
miter fence.
WARNING:
Always use a pushstick with small pieces of wood, and
also to finish the cut when ripping a long narrow piece of
wood, to prevent your hands from getting close to the
blade.
Bevel cuts are made with an angled blade. Bevel cross cuts
are across the wood grain, and bevel rip cuts are with the
grain. The rip fence must always be on the left side of the
blade for bevel rip cuts.
Compound (or bevel) miter cuts are made with an angled
blade on wood that is angled to the blade. Be thoroughly
familiar with making cross cuts, rip cuts, bevel cuts, and miter
cuts before trying a compound miter cut.
2
6
4
5
3
WARNING:
All blades and cutting accessories must be rated for at
least 5,500 rpm to prevent possible injury. 
						

							Page 23
OPERATION
FEATHERBOARD
A featherboard is a device used to help control the workpiece
by guiding it securely against the table or fence. Featherboards
are especially useful when ripping small workpieces and for
completing non-through cuts. The end is angled, with a
number of short kerfs to give a friction hold on the workpiece.
Lock it in place on the table with a C-clamp. Test that it could
resist kickback.
WARNING:
Place the featherboard against the uncut portion of the
workpiece, to avoid kickback that could cause serious
personal injury.
HOW TO MAKE A FEATHERBOARD
See Figure 24.
The featherboard is an excellent project for your BT3100.
Select a solid piece of lumber approximately 3/4 in. thick, 3-5/8 in.
wide and 18 inches long. Mark the center of the width on one
end of the stock. Miter one-half of the width to 30° and miter
the other half of the same end to 45°. See page 28 for
information on miter cuts. Mark the board from the point at 6
in., 8 in., 10 in. and 12 in. Drill a 3/8 in. hole at the 8 in., 10
in., and 12 in. marks as indicated in figure 24. Prepare the
saw for ripping as discussed on page 28. Set the rip fence to
allow approximately a 1/4 in. finger to be cut in the stock.
Feed the stock only to the mark previously made at 6 inches.
Turn the saw OFF and allow the blade to completely stop
rotating before removing the stock. Reset the rip fence and
cut spaced rips into the workpiece to allow approximately
1/4 in. fingers and 1/8 in. spaces between the fingers.
HOW TO MOUNT A FEATHERBOARD
Remove the adjusting clamp knob, bolt and washer from the
Miter Fence Holder. Place the bolt through one of the holesin the featherboard. Positioning the featherboard will depend
on the placement of the bolt and the position of the sliding
miter table on the rails. Place the washer on the bolt and
attach the adjusting clamp knob, loosely. Position the
featherboard with the hex head of the bolt in the miter table
slot but do not tighten. Completely lower the saw blade.
Position the rip fence to the desired adjustment for the cut to
be performed and lock. Place the workpiece against the
fence and over the saw blade area. Adjust the featherboard
to apply resistance to the workpiece just forward of the blade.
Securely tighten the adjusting clamp knob to secure the
featherboard in place. Attach a C-clamp to further secure the
featherboard to the edge of the Sliding Miter Table.
WARNING:
DO NOT locate the featherboard to the rear of the
workpiece. Kickback can result from the featherboard
pinching the workpiece and binding the blade in the saw
kerf if positioned improperly. Failure to heed this warning
can result in serious personal injury.
Fig. 24
3/8 INCH DIAMETER
1/8 in.1/4 in.
3/4 in.
3-5/8 in.
1-13/16 in.
30°
45°
6 in.
8 in.
10 in.
12 in.
18 in.
PUSH BLOCK
Fig. 23 “C” CLAMPFEATHERBOARD
PUSH STICK
BEVEL LOCKING LEVER 
						

							Page 24
OPERATION
Fig. 26
SETTINGS AND ADJUSTMENTS
TO REMOVE THE BLADE
See Figures 25 - 27.
Use the two wrenches supplied with the saw in this proce-
dure to replace the blade.
WARNING:
Unplug your saw and make sure the blade guard assembly
is installed and working properly to avoid serious personal
injury.

Raise the blade guard.

Remove the screw from the throat plate then remove the
throat plate.

Push the bevel locking lever to the left for elevation mode.

Raise the blade to its full height by turning the blade
adjusting handle clockwise.

Place the open end of the small hex wrench into the slot
beside the blade. The wrench will fit over two flats on the
arbor (blade shaft). 
See Figure 26.

Fit the large hex wrench onto the arbor nut. Turn clockwise
and remove the nut, taking care not to drag your knuckles
across the blade.
Note: The arbor nut has left-hand threads.

Remove the outer blade washer from the arbor and then
remove the blade. Make sure that inner blade washer and
both spacers are tight against arbor shoulder.

Replace with a new blade. Make sure the blade teeth are
pointing forward, toward incoming work.

Put the outer blade washer and arbor nut back on,
aligning with the flats on the arbor. Tighten the nut with a
counterclockwise turn.
Note: Use care not to cross thread arbor nut. Do not
overtighten.

Rotate the blade by hand to make sure it is turning freely.

Check the riving knife and adjust if needed (See next
procedure).

Lower the blade, insert the throat plate, then securely
tighten the throat plate screw.
BLADE
GUARD THROAT
PLATE
BEVEL
LOCKING LEVERBLADE
ADJUSTING HANDLE
Fig. 25
LARGE HEX
WRENCH
SMALL
SPACER
SMALL HEX
WRENCH
OUTER
BLADE WASHERLARGE
SPACER
INNER
BLADE WASHER
ARBOR NUT
TO
LOOSEN NOTE: PLACE BLADE BETWEEN
INNER AND OUTER BLADE WASHER
TO ANGLE BLADE,
PUSH BEVEL LOCKING
LEVER RIGHT.TO LOWER BLADE, PUSH BEVEL
LOCKING LEVER LEFT AND
ROTATE BLADE ADJUSTING
HANDLE COUNTERCLOCKWISE
TO RAISE BLADE, PUSH BEVEL
LOCKING LEVER LEFT AND
ROTATE BLADE ADJUSTING
HANDLE CLOCKWISE. TO LOCK BLADE ANGLE,
PUSH BEVEL LOCKING
LEVER LEFT.
ARBOR
Fig. 27
TO
TIGHTEN 
						

							Page 25
OPERATION
TO CHECK, REPLACE OR ADJUST THE RIVING
KNIFE AND BLADE GUARD ASSEMBLY
The riving knife is mounted between several shims that can
be relocated as needed to center the knife behind the blade.
It is held in place by two bolts and hex nuts at its base. The
bolts are set in slots that permit front-to-back adjustment.
WARNING:
Failure to turn the table saw off, remove the switch key,
and unplug the saw before servicing or working on it could
result in accidental starting causing possible serious
injury.

Lower the blade.

Remove the throat plate.

Raise the saw blade by pushing the bevel locking lever  to
the left and rotating the blade adjustment handle clockwise.

With blade guard up, make sure the riving knife is placed
at least 1/8 in. from the outer points of the blade. 
See
Figure 29.
 Then make sure it is centered within the width
of the blade. 
See Figure 30. If either placement is wrong,
adjust with the following steps.

Put the saw in angle mode by moving the bevel locking
lever to the right. Slowly turn the blade adjusting handle
until the bevel indicator is at a 30˚ angle. Lock the angle
by holding the blade adjusting handle with one hand and
returning the bevel locking lever to the left with the other.

With the box end of the small hex key, remove the two
nuts at the base of the riving knife. Remove the riving
knife/guard assembly.

Rearrange the riving knife between the shims to achieve
the correct centering.
WARNING:
Properly align riving knife. Improperly aligned riving knife
can cause blade to bind which will increase risk of
kickback.

Adjust the riving knife on the bolts front-to-back as needed
to place the riving knife approximately 1/8 in. from the
blade’s outer points. Put the nuts back on and tighten.

Bring the blade back to the desired angle and height.
Lower the blade, insert the throat plate, then securely
tighten the throat plate screw.
Fig. 30
BLADE
GUARD
Fig. 29
Fig. 28 RIVING KNIFE BLADE
THROAT PLATE
RIVING KNIFE
BLADE
1/8 INCH
MOUNTING
PLATE
HEX NUTSSHIMS RIVING
KNIFE 
						

							Page 26
2112 0 13
11 14151617
186758693
1
02
1
1
1
1
20
GULLET
Fig. 33 FRONT RAIL
Fig. 31
BEVEL
INDICATORBEVEL
LOCKING LEVER
RAIL
CLAMP
BLADE
ADJUSTING HANDLE
Fig. 32
2 in.LOCKING
HANDLE BLADE
RIP
FENCE
2 IN.
MARKSCALE
SCALE
INDICATOR
TO ADJUST THE BLADE DEPTH
The blade depth should be set so that the outer points of the
blade are higher than the workpiece by approximately 1/8 in.
to 1/4 in. but the lowest points (gullets) are below the top
surface. 
See Figure 31.
WARNING:
Unplug the saw and make sure the blade guard assembly
is installed and working properly to avoid serious personal
injury.

Push the bevel locking lever to the left for elevation mode.

Raise the blade by turning the blade adjusting handle
clockwise or lower it by turning the handle counter-
clockwise.
TO ADJUST THE BLADE ANGLE
See Figure 32.
WARNING:
Unplug the saw and make sure the blade guard assembly
is installed and working properly to avoid serious personal
injury.

Unlock the bevel locking lever.

Push the bevel locking lever to the right for angle mode.

Angle the blade by turning the blade adjusting handle until
the bevel indicator shows the correct angle.

Return the bevel locking lever securely to the left to lock
the angle, while holding the blade adjusting handle in
place.
TO SET THE SCALE TO THE BLADE
The scale is usable from 0-24 in. to the right side of the blade
and 0-21 in. on the left side of the blade. The operator can
select any desired dimension within those ranges. Use the
following steps to set the scale to the blade and scale
indicator. Begin with the blade at a zero angle (straight up).
See Figure 33.

Loosen the rip fence by raising the locking handle.

Using a framing square, set the rip fence 2 in. from the
blade tip edge.

Loosen both front and rear rails by lifting the front and rear
rail clamps. 
See Figure 32.

Adjust the front rail until the 2 in. mark is placed at the
scale indicator. Align the rear rail to the front rail.

Tighten the rails and check the dimension and the rip
fence in both directions.
WARNING:
Blades coast after turn off. Possible serious injury can
occur if hands come in contact with blade.
ANGLED BLADE
OPERATION 
						

							Page 27
OPERATION
Fig. 36
Fig. 34
MITER
FENCE
Fig. 35 MITER
TABLE BASE ADJUSTING
CLAMP
QUICK
STOP
SLOTS FOR LOCKING
MITER TABLE
MITER
SLIDE LOCK
TO LOCK MITER TABLE
See Figure 34.
The  miter table slides to let the operator slide the workpiece
across the saw. A miter slide lock is mounted on the front of
the miter table to lock it in place. The miter slide lock is placed
in a slot on the base to align the miter table with the front edge
of the saw table. The sliding miter table should be locked for
any cut in which the operator prefers a fixed table.

To lock the miter table with the base projecting to the front,
place miter slide lock in the back slot on the base.

To lock the miter table with the base projecting to the
back, place miter slide lock in the front slot on the base.
WARNING:
Never stand directly in line with the blade or allow hands
to come closer than 3 inches to the blade. Do not reach
over or across the blade. Failure to heed this warning can
result in serious personal injury.
MAKING CUTS
The blade provided with your saw is a high-quality combina-
tion blade suitable for ripping and crosscut operations.
WARNING:
All blades must be rated for at least 5,500 RPM to prevent
possible injury.
TO MAKE A STRAIGHT CROSS CUT
See Figure 35.
WARNING:
Never use rip fence as cutoff gauge when crosscutting.
WARNING:
Make sure the blade guard assembly is installed and
working properly to avoid serious personal injury.
It is recommended you make test cuts on scrap wood.

Remove the rip fence by lifting the locking handle.

Set the blade to the correct depth for the workpiece.

Set the miter fence to 90˚ with the quick-stop or the miter
scale.

Make sure the miter fence wont touch the blade while
feeding the wood. Make a trial pass of the miter table. The
miter fence should not contact the blade. Loosen the
adjusting clamp to move the fence if needed.

Place a support (the same height as saw table) behind the
saw for the cut work.
SWITCH
KEY
SWITCH IN LOCKED POSITION
SWITCH
BUTTON
IN OFF
POSITION SWITCH
BUTTON
IN ON
POSITION 
						

							Page 28
OPERATION

Make sure the wood is clear of the blade before turning on
the saw. 
See Figure 35.

To turn saw on (     ), lift switch cover and press switch
button. Then lower switch cover.

To turn saw off (      ), press the switch button down.
Note: To prevent unauthorized use, remove the switch
key as shown in figure 36.

Let the blade build up to full speed before moving the
workpiece into the blade.

Hold the workpiece firmly with both hands on the miter
gauge and feed the workpiece into the blade.

When the cut is made, turn the saw off (      ). Wait for the
blade to come to a complete stop before removing the
workpiece.
TO MAKE A MITER CUT
See Figure 37.
It is recommended you make test cuts on scrap wood.
WARNING:
Make sure the blade guard assembly is installed and
working properly to avoid serious personal injury.

Remove the rip fence by lifting the locking handle.

Loosen the adjusting clamp to set the desired angle of the
miter fence. Place the miter indicator on the miter fence
to the desired angle on the miter table. Retighten the
clamp.

Place a support (the same height as saw table) behind the
saw for the cut work.

Make sure the miter fence will not contact the blade while
feeding the wood. Make a trial pass of the miter table. The
miter fence should not contact the blade. Loosen the
adjusting clamp to move it away from the blade if needed.

Make sure the wood is clear of the blade before turning on
the saw.

Let the blade build up to full speed before moving the
workpiece into the blade.

Hold the work firmly against the miter fence with both
hands, keeping well clear of the blade, and push the miter
table to feed the work into the blade.
TO MAKE A STRAIGHT RIP CUT
See Figure 38.
It is recommended you make a test cut on scrap wood.
WARNING:
Make sure the blade guard assembly is installed and
working properly to avoid serious personal injury.

Remove the miter fence. Position accessory table and
sliding miter table to provide the support necessary for
the cut being performed. Securely lock the rip fence with
the locking handle.

Dont leave one side of saw unsupported.

Position the rip fence the desired distance from the blade
for the cut and securely lock the handle. Adjust the scale
to zero at the cutting edge of the blade.
Place a support (the same height as saw table) behind
the saw for the cut work.

Make sure the wood is clear of the blade before turning
on the saw.

Use a push block or push stick to move the wood through
the cut past the blade. Never push a small piece of
wood into the blade with your hand, always use a
push stick. The use of push blocks, push sticks, and
featherboards are necessary when making non-through
cuts.

Stand to the side of the wood as it contacts the blade to
reduce the chance of injury should kickback occur. Never
stand directly in the line of cut.

Make sure the wood is clear of the blade before turning
on the saw.

Let the blade build up to full speed before feeding the
workpiece into the blade.

When the cut is made, turn the saw off (      ). Wait for the
blade to come to a complete stop before removing the
workpiece.
Fig. 38 RIP FENCE BLADE
MITER TABLE
PUSH STICK
REAR RAIL
BASEFRONT RAIL
LOCKING HANDLE
Fig. 37 MITER FENCEBLADE
GUARD ASSEMBLY
ADJUSTING CLAMP 
						

							Page 29
OPERATION

Remove miter fence, sliding miter table, and accessory
table.

Position the rip fence the desired distance from the left
side of the blade and lock down the handle.

Adjust the bevel angle to the desired setting.

Set the blade to the correct depth.

If ripping a piece larger than 36 in. long, place a support
the same height as the table surface behind the saw for
the cut work.

Turn the power switch to the on (     ) position.

Position the workpiece flat on the table with the edge flush
against the rip fence. Let the blade build up to full speed
before feeding the workpiece into the blade.

Using a push stick and/or push blocks, slowly feed the
workpiece toward the blade. Stand slightly to the side of
the wood as it contacts the blade to reduce the chance of
injury should kickback occur.
TO MAKE A BEVEL CROSS CUT
See Figure 39.
It is recommended that you place the piece to be saved on
the left side of the blade and that you make a test cut on
scrap wood.
WARNING:
Make sure the blade guard assembly is installed and
working properly to avoid serious personal injury.

Remove the rip fence by lifting the locking handle.

Move the bevel locking lever to the right for Angle mode.
Turn the blade adjustment handle until the bevel indicator
is at the desired angle. Push the bevel locking lever
securely to the left to lock the angle.

Set the blade to the correct depth for the workpiece.

Loosen the adjusting clamp on the miter fence. Set the
miter fence to 90° with either the quick-stop or the miter
scale.

Make sure the miter fence will not contact the blade as
the wood feeds into the blade. Make a trial pass of the
miter table. The end of the miter fence should not contact
the blade. Loosen the adjusting clamp to move it away
from the blade if needed.

Place a support (the same height as saw table) behind
the saw for the cut work.

Make sure the wood is clear of the blade before turning
on the saw.

Let the blade build up to full speed before moving the
miter table to feed the workpiece into the blade.

Hold the work with both hands and push the miter table
to feed the work into the blade.

When the cut is made, turn the saw off (      ). Wait for the
blade to come to a complete stop before removing the
workpiece.
TO MAKE A BEVEL RIP CUT
See Figure 40.
It is recommended you make test cuts on scrap wood.
WARNING:
The rip fence must be on the left side of the blade to avoid
trapping the wood and causing kickback. Placement of
the rip fence to the right of the blade will result in kickback
and the risk of serious personal injury.
WARNING:
Make sure the blade guard assembly is installed and
working properly to reduce the risk of serious personal
injury.Fig. 39 MITER FENCE
ADJUSTING CLAMP
Fig 40
RIP FENCE
MITER TABLE WOODEN INSERT
BEVEL LOCKING LEVER
QUICK STOP 
						

							Page 30
OPERATION

Once the blade has made contact with the workpiece,
use the hand closest to the rip fence to guide it. Make
sure the edge of the workpiece remains in solid contact
with both the rip fence and the surface of the table. If
ripping a narrow piece, use a push stick to move the piece
through the cut and past the blade.

When the cut is made, turn the saw off (      ). Wait for the
blade to come to a complete stop before removing the
workpiece.

After the blade has stopped completely, remove the cutoff
stock.

Grasp the workpiece from the lead end (the end fed into
the blade first) and carefully remove it from the table.
TO MAKE A COMPOUND MITER CUT
This cut is made with both the miter fence and the blade
angled. Set the miter fence and the blade angle with the
procedures given earlier.
The miter fence must be on the left side of the blade. It is
highly recommended that you test the cut with a piece of
scrap wood. Become thoroughly familiar with bevel cross
cuts and miter cuts before attempting to perform a com-
pound miter cut.
TO MAKE A LARGE PANEL CUT
See Figure 41.
Make sure the saw is properly secured to a work surface so
it will not tip over under the weight of a large panel.
WARNING:
Make sure the blade guard assembly is installed and
working properly to avoid serious personal injury.

Raise the locking handle on the rip fence to allow the rails
to move freely.

Lift off the sliding miter table assembly by raising the miter
locking clamps to release the grippers.

Remove the accessory table by swinging out the lever
and lifting the table up and out.

Rotate the front rail clamps (under the front rail) to the left
and slide the front rail to the side where the panel will rest.
Lock the rail clamps after positioning the front rail.

Rotate the rear rail clamps (under the rear rail) to the left
and position the rear rail to support the panel. Align the
rear rail with the front rail. Lock the rail clamps after
positioning the rear rail.
Place the accessory table onto the rails far enough from
the blade to help support the panel and lock securely.

Place the sliding miter table assembly onto the rails and
lock securely. The miter table can be rotated 180° so the
projecting base  is at the back of the work surface so you
wont run into it as you feed the panel into the blade.
(Tables can be placed on either side of blade.)

Position the rip fence the desired distance from the blade
for the cut and securely lock the handle.

Place a support behind the saw for the cut work.

Make sure the panel is clear of the blade before turning on
the saw.

Let the blade build up to full speed before feeding the
workpiece into the blade.Fig. 41 MITER
LOCKING CLAMPSACCESSORY
TABLE
ACCESSORY
TABLE
RAIL CLAMPSLIDING MITER
TABLE ASSEMBLY