Lyman Black Powder Instructions Manual

							Lyman
®
User’s Guide for
Black Powder Products
This booklet contains important how-to information on the use
and maintenance of black powder products and accessories
including:
• Flintlock and Caplock - How They Work
• Black Powder Loads and Specifications
• Shooting Tips–Round Ball and Conicals
• Basics of Bullet Casting
• Disassembly and Cleaning
The User’s Guide also includes detailed product information and
exploded parts diagrams for:
• Great Plains Rifle • Deerstalker Rifle
• Trade Rifle • Plains Pistol
©2003 Lyman Products Corporation, 475 Smith Street., Middletown, CT 06457
Printed in U.S.A. (3-03) #6985043
User'sGuideforBlackPowderProducts 
						

							Table of Contents
Black Powder Shooter  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1
Special Product Information  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Some Words of Caution  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
Flintlock and Caplock–How they Work  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
How to Load—The Patched Roundball  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7-8
Shooting Tips—Choosing Ball and Patch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9-10
How to Load—The Minie, Solid-Base Conical or Sabot  . . . . . . . . . . . .10-11
Bullet Suitability Chart  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Disassembly and Cleaning  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Black Powder Loads & Specifications  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Shooting Tips—Black Powder Guide  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Bullet Casting Basics  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16-17
Sight Adjustments  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18-19
Optional Lyman Blackpowder Sights  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Black Powder Guns  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Great Plains Rifle  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22-23
Trade Rifle  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24-25
Deerstalker Rifle  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26-29
Lock Assemblies  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30-31
Plains Pistol  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Instructions for Lyman Assembly Kits  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33-39
Lyman Catalog Section  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40-42
Promotions and Order Form  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43-44
Introduction
This publication has been developed to provide the fullest possible informa-
tion about Lyman muzzleloaders. Information contained herein-especially the
operational procedures of loading and cleaning–can almost always be used
when operating guns of another make.
Repair and Warranty Service
For factory warranty service or repairs, please direct your Lyman muzzleloader 
as follows:
Great Plains Rifle, Trade Rifle, Deerstalker, Plains Pistol
Dixon Muzzleloading, 9952 Kunkels Mill Road, Kempton, PA 19529
610-756-6271
(Dixon Muzzleloading is Lyman’s national warranty repair station for the guns designated.)
Attach a complete letter of information to the outside of the package and
package securely. Use sufficient cushioning material to prevent movement of
the gun in package during shipment. For minor non-warranty repairs, check
with gunsmiths in your area.
Contact Dixon only for warranty work.
Call Lyman direct for general technical
service information. 
						

							1
Lyman
®
Dear Black Powder Shooter:
Congratulations on purchasing your new Lyman Black Powder Gun. All of our
black powder products are the result of extensive thought and testing. With
proper care, your new gun should bring you a lifetime of shooting pleasure.
Before firing your gun, there are a few precautions that should be followed.
Please read these instructions carefully.
1. If your new rifle is a flintlock, we have function tested the lock assembly,
flint and frizzen to ensure that it provides proper ignition. Therefore, please do
not be concerned with the resulting marks on the frizzen–it is simply a
reminder of our comprehensive factory inspection.
2. The barrels bore contains a heavy duty preservative that may resemble
rusty oil. It is not rust! This preservative must be thoroughly removed before
firing to obtain maximum accuracy.
Directions:
A. Swab the bore with some form of solvent or penetrating oil
(example: WD-40 or Hoppes #9). Let soak overnight.
B.Brush out the following day using a nylon brush wrapped with 00
steel wool or a brass brush (must be under bore diameter to prevent 
bristles from jamming at the breech of the barrel).
C.Wipe out using soft flannel (avoid t-shirt material–it doesnt work 
well using cleaning jag and has a tendency to stay down the bore). 
The brass coloration you see is normal after cleaning.
3.The stock has been stained with oil leaving a dull finish.
As with all oil finished stocks, rubbing in additional thin coats of oil
(Linseed or Birchwood Caseys Tru-Oil) will further enhance the finish and
protect the stock.
If you have any questions on these instructions, please call our customer
service department at 1-800-22-LYMAN (except AK, HI, CT and foreign who
may call 860-632-2020). We will be glad to provide whatever assistance
you require.
Sincerely,
Your friends at Lyman Products 
						

							2
SPECIAL PRODUCT INFORMATION–
PLEASE READ
Check List for Lyman Black Powder Guns
Upon opening the carton containing your Black Powder Gun you should find
the following items.
Contents
Black Powder Model-Finished
Great Plains Rifle Stock
Great Plains Hunter Ramrod
Trade Rifle Barrel
DeerstalkerWedges (One for Trade & Deerstalker
two for Great Plains)
Primitive rear sight
(Trade & Great Plains)
Adjustable rear sight
(Trade & Great Plains)
Lyman 16AML & 37AML Sights
(Deerstalker only)
Cleaning Jag
Flint (Flint models only)
Great Plains Rifle Kit Stock
Great Plains Rifle Flint Kit Ramrod
Barrel
Wedges(One for Trade & Deerstalker
two for Great Plains)
Primitive rear sight
Adjustable rear sight
Cleaning Jag
Flint (Flint Models only)
Lock Assembly
Trigger Assembly
Trigger Guard
Bag Containing Assembly Hardware
Plains Pistol Finished Assembled Gun
Ramrod
Polybag Containing:
Cleaning Jag
Lock Screw Bushing
Plains Pistol Kit Stock
Barrel
Lock Assembly
Trigger Assembly
Trigger Guard
Ramrod
Bag Containing Assembly Hardware
Belt Hook 
						

							3
SOME WORDS OF CAUTION
1. All Lyman black powder pistols and rifles are intended for use with black
powder or Pyrodex only. Use of any other propellant can cause
serious injury to the shooter and damage to the firearm. Never use
smokeless powder.
2.Guard against overcharges. Follow the instructions and do not exceed
suggested charges in this booklet.
3. Wear safety glasses when shooting black powder firearms. Shatterproof
shooting glasses will protect the eyes from sparks, broken percussion
caps, hot gases, and lead fragments.
4. Protect your hearing. Use ear plugs or muffs when firing any firearm.
5.Be certain the projectile is seated firmly against the powder charge.
Any gap between the projectile and powder charge could cause serious
damage to the firearm and injury to the shooter. Hunters, in particular,
should check the position of the projectile in the barrel at regular
intervals when in the field. Decap/deprime before checking, though.
6. Use only non-synthetic cloth patching of suitable thickness when loading
round balls. Do not use Poly Patches or any synthetic wad with a round
ball. The ball can separate and act as a bore obstruction.
7.Never charge a muzzleloader directly from a powder flask. A sudden
powder ignition from a lingering spark could cause the entire flask to
explode. Instead, use an individual charge from a powder measure when
loading your Lyman gun.
8. Never smoke when handling black powder.
9.Before each shooting session, check your black powder firearm carefully.
10.Before relying on the half-cock position, make sure the hammer will
not fall when the trigger is pulled. Note: half-cock is not a “safety!”
11. While on the firing line, keep all black powder canisters closed.
12.Keep spectators to the rear of the shooter. Standing beside a
muzzleloader is not safe enough. Flames, hot gases and percussion cap
fragments may fly from the side of the firearm causing injury.
13. Keep clear of the muzzle, particularly during loading.
14. If the gun misfires, keep the muzzle pointed down range for at least a
minute before attempting to reprime it. There is always the chance a spark
is smoldering in the powder charge and the gun could fire at any second.
15. Treat unprimed flintlocks as loaded weapons. Sometimes the sparks of an
unprimed flintlock can fire the gun.
16. Use a non-flammable material to hold the flint in place. Cloth, cardboard
or canvas could hold a lingering spark which might set off the next
priming charge unexpectedly.
17. Store black powder and percussion caps in separate locations. Use their
original containers when possible. Caps are sensitive to static electricity,
percussion, heat and flame. Check local fire regulations before storing
black powder in the home.
18.Follow the basic rules of firearms safety when handling any black
powder firearm.
19. If you sell or give this Lyman black powder gun to someone else, give
him this booklet too. Copies of this booklet are available from Lyman. 
						

							4
FLINTLOCK AND CAPLOCK–HOW THEY WORK
The Flintlock
Todays flintlock evolved around 1600 in Europe and was the most efficient
lock for firearms use until the percussion system was perfected in the early
1800s. Even so, flintlock rifles remained in service in some of Americas more
rural areas until, perhaps, the turn of the century.
Simplicity of operation typifies the flintlock since all the shooter must have is a
bit of priming powder and a flint for the hammers jaws. This flint must be held
securely and wrapping it in a bit of leather or thin sheet of lead gives the upper
and lower jaws of the cock something to hold onto–and the flint as well.
The flintlock operates in the following manner: The hammer is placed on full
cock, the pan is charged with either 4Fg or 3Fg powder and the frizzen is
snapped down over the powder pan. Now the lock is ready for firing. Usually
the hammer is lowered to half cock unless the shot will be taken immediately.
To fire the gun, the hammer is brought back to the full cock position, the gun
raised and aimed–the trigger pulled. The hammer falls and the fireworks begin.
The flint strikes the face of the frizzen and this forceful scraping causes a
shower of sparks–which are actually tiny pieces of molten metal from the
frizzen face. These sparks drop into the powder pan and–usually–ignite the
charge of priming powder. The flash of the igniting primer charge travels
through the barrels touch hole and ignites the main charge. In all cases,
successful firing is contingent on having a sharp flint tightly held in the ham-
mer, a clean hard face on the frizzen, fine dry powder in the pan, a clean touch
hole and main charge properly loaded in good condition.
That is how the chain of events should go anyway. Sometimes the main charge
decides to play dead and all the shooter gets is the poof of the igniting primer
charge ... hence the old saying of flash in the pan.
The flintlock isnt perfect but the shooter can go a long way towards minimizing
most of the problems if he takes the time to understand the guns needs. Here are
some of the major points:
Vulnerable Priming–Wind and water can cause misfires without too much
trouble. The solution lies in awareness of the problem and the possible use of a
waterproof hood which fits over the lock area. Bullet lube or grease applied to
the outer edge of the frizzen and powder pan will help to keep water away from
the powder. Flints should be clamped tightly in the hammers jaws and replaced
when they are dull.
Pan Flash–This can be a real problem for any flintlock shooter since the
eruption of the priming is a very real and spectacular event!  The shooter can
minimize this distraction by using priming powder sparingly.
Long Lock Time–Only practice and experience can teach the shooter to
control his particular gun.
To the uninitiated the combination of a heavy hammer striking the
springloaded frizzen (which snaps open adding yet another force to confound
aiming efforts) and the resultant “whoosh” of the igniting primer charge is
more than distracting. By the time the main charge goes off, the sights may be
way off target and the shooters eyes screwed shut while he wonders when all
the commotion will stop!
The solution? Keep practicing. Get to know your flintlock and take care
of it. Wear shooting glasses for extra confidence and protection. 
						

							5
The flintlock is poised at full cock
and ready for firing.As the hammer falls, the leading edge
of the flint makes initial contact with
the face of the frizzen. The continuing
force of the hammer starts to rock the
springloaded frizzen back and up on its
pivot. Sparks generated here are minor
and probably offer very little to the
ignition process.
The hammer continues to fall and the
direct blow of the flint against the
frizzen changes to a heavy scraping of
the frizzen by the flint. This produces
a shower of sparks which start the
ignition of the priming powder.
The priming is fully ignited and the
main charge has just begun to burn.
Typically, there will be a certain
amount of the main charge pushed up
the barrel aways behind the ball before
the powder is consumed.
This Brown Bess was heavily
primed and the resulting eruption
has seriously distracted the shooter.
Remember–use a light priming
charge and wear safety glasses for
extra confidence and protection.Bicentennial skirmishers use a shield
around the side of their powder pans
to prevent touch hole blast from strik-
ing the shooter to their right. All flint-
lock shooters should be extra careful
since this jet of gas is very hot and
can easily injure someone.
1.
3.
4.
2. 
						

							6
THE CAPLOCK
While the flintlock was a distinct improvement over the ignition systems it
superseded, it did have its problems and, as is usual, experiments were 
conducted by a variety of people in America and Europe seeking an improved
replacement. After several not-so-effective alternatives had been tried, the
percussion system as we know it today was devised, proved and accepted.
This new system was relatively impervious to the elements and offered the
shooter faster lock time and less distracting primer ignition. The percussion
lock was widespread by the 1830s1840s.
The caplock is even simpler than the flintlock and is comprised of only three
functioning components: Hammer, nipple and percussion cap. It works like
this: With the gun loaded, the hammer is eased back to full cock and a small
copper cap is pressed down over the nipple. This little cap contains a dab of
fulminate sealed into the top. The cap is held firmly in place by the skirts or
sides which are sized to grip the outside of the nipple.
To fire the piece, the hammer is brought to full cock and released by the 
trigger. The falling hammer hits home and crushes the fragile copper cap
between the recessed hammer face and nipple, exploding the fulminate.
The little spurt of flame is directed down inside the nipple along a flash 
channel leading through the side of the barrel into the main charge–which is
then ignited.
The percussion system flourished only a few decades before the metallic 
cartridge was perfected and accepted, completely replacing the caplock 
system on all guns manufactured after the turn of the twentieth century–if not
before. Today it is the most preferred muzzle-loading ignition system on the market.
The percussion lock guns on todays market are very reliable providing the
nipple channel is kept open and dry and the main charge is in good shape.
Warning: Do not dry fire. This will damage the nipple.
HOW THE CAPLOCK WORKS
Draw the hammer to full cock. Firmly press a
cap down over the nipple after glancing down
the flash channel for obstructions. Lower the
hammer to half-cock if the shot will not be
made right away. Since your rifle is equipped
with a fly, the hammer sear must be lowered
past the half-cock notch and then brought back
up and into the notch. Half-cock is not a safety.
NOTE: If the cap fits a bit loosely squeeze the
sides, or skirts, a bit so they will grip the sides of
the nipple and the cap will stay securely in place.
Ease the hammer back to full cock when you
are ready to fire.
After firing the shot, leave the hammer down over the expended cap. 
This restricts the flow of air through the barrel and helps smother any sparks
lingering after your last shot. 
						

							7
HOW TO LOAD ...
The Patched Roundball
Without a doubt, the most popular and widely used muzzle-loading projec-
tile is the patched roundball. This combination of a soft lead sphere and a
scrap of lubricated cloth is peculiarly American and has been with us ever
since its worth was proven prior to and during our Revolutionary War.
Over the years different styles of rifling have been devised and used with
some degree of success. Characteristics ran from extremely deep grooves to
relatively shallow ones; from two or three lands to eight or more.
Throughout this period and up through today the most constant single factor
has been the patch around the ball–that hasnt changed ... nor has the lead
ball, for that matter.
A roundball, whether fired from a rifle or a smoothbore, needs the patch to
take up the slack, called windage, between the ball and barrel walls. A
properly fitted ball and patch will seal the bore and keep propellant gases
behind the bullet where they do the most good. At the same time the ball is
held rigidly in position and not allowed to wander from side to side as it
speeds towards the muzzle. In a smoothbore this means the ball leaves the
muzzle the same way each shot; it does the same in a rifle plus the ball is
stabilized by the rifling and given a high degree of accuracy.
Use of the patched roundball in a single-shot pistol is virtually identical to its
use in a long gun in terms of interior ballistics and loading operations.
Loading the patched roundball requires the same techniques regardless
whether the gun is rifled or smoothbore, flintlock or caplock.  The following
preliminaries should be performed before the first charge of the day is poured
down the barrel:
Since oil and any other form of moisture is the enemy of the successful black
powder shooter, the bore and chamber area should receive a good cleaning
just before the gun is loaded. Run fresh patches down the barrel until they
come out clean and dry. Clean the flash channels of both flintlocks and
caplocks with pipe cleaners–pushing the flexible stem on into the barrel.
Next, while outdoors, place a #11 cap on the nipple of the caplock, hold the
muzzle near a blade of grass, bit of dust, etc. and drop the guns hammer on
the cap. Detonation of the fulminate will cause a small but noticeable blast to
emanate from the muzzle moving the blade of grass or bit of dust. If the blast
does not manifest itself, the shooter must go back over the gun to clear away
the obstruction.
Finally, after all is clear, run a last clean patch down the barrel to catch any
freshly dislodged lubricant. Now the gun is ready to be loaded. 
						

							8
LOADING STEPS
1. Set the rifles butt on the ground with the muzzle inclined in a safe 
direction –well away from your body. Measure and pour the powder down
the barrel using an adjustable measure or pre-weighed charges.
2. Lay your strip of lubricated patching cloth (or pre-cut patch) over 
the muzzle. Center the ball and press it into the bore until it is flush 
with the muzzle. Tightfitting combinations can be seated by reversing your
ball starter and “rolling” it over the ball.
3. Cut the excess patching from around the ball. Specially designed patch
knives are ideal for this task although nearly any sharp object will suffice.
This is unnecessary for pre-cut patches.
4. Push the ball into the bore using your ball starter.
5. Seat the ball firmly on the powder with the ramrod. The desired ramming
stroke is smooth and uninterrupted. Jabbing or tamping the ball down the
bore may result in serious deformation or uneven seating force upon the
charge. Make sure the ball is firmly seated since an air space could cause a
bulged barrel–or worse.  Marking your ramrod at the appropriate level is a
handy trick.  Return the ramrod to the thimbles.
6. Place the hammer on full cock and prime your piece–either with powder or
#11 percussion cap. You are ready to fire. Lower the hammer to half-cock
if the shot will not be made right away. Since your rifle is equipped with a
fly, the hammer sear must be lowered past the half-cock notch and then
brought back up and into the notch. Half-cock is not a safety.
SAFETY NOTES
Caplocks:After firing leave the hammer down over the exploded cap as you
reload. This helps smother any sparks left from the preceding shot. Keep your
hands and face away from the muzzle.
Flintlocks:Before squeezing the trigger at the range, check to your sides and
make sure your buddy is not standing in line with your barrels touch-hole.
When a fully loaded flintlock goes off there is a jet of hot gas that shoots out
from the side and leaves its mark on unwary bystanders. Warn your
companions and take extra care before squeezing the trigger.
Be sure there is no gap between the lockplate/priming pan and the barrel flat
beneath the vent hole. Fine priming powder can work through a gap,
accumulate in the lock mortise and, when ignited, cause gun damage and
injury to the shooter and bystanders. Periodically remove and clean both the
lock and the stocks lock mortise.
All Misfires:Should your gun fail to fire . . . keep the muzzle pointed in a
safe direction until the chance of a hangfire has passed and you are satisfied
the charge is truly dead. Next, inspect the nipple and/or vent, remove any
obvious obstruction, reprime and try the shot again. If the charge continues to
balk, you may have to work some fine powder into the nipple or vent with
your pick, reprime and shoot. At worst, it may be necessary to have a 
gunsmith dismantle the rifle, unbreech the barrel and drive out the load.
Balls Seated Without Powder:This seems to happen to everyone at one
time or another. It may be necessary to use a “worm” or similar device–but
before you go to those extremes try this: Work some fine powder into the
flash channel, prime and shoot. Work more powder into the channel and 
barrel, seat the ball, prime and shoot. This should do it.