Lyman Black Powder Instructions Manual

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SHOOTING TIPS ...
CHOOSING BALL AND PATCH
Accuracy with a roundball rifle is based on a paradox; an underside ball is spun
by rifling that it never touches! The secret, if there is one, lies in the cloth patch.
It functions as a gas seal and, theoretically at least, completely seals the bore.
It also transfers to the ball the grip and the spin of the rifling.  To perform its
duties, the cloth patch should fill the grooves of the rifle. In other words, it
should be under considerable compression not only where it contacts the lands,
but also at the bottom of each groove. A tight fitting combination of patch and
ball is an absolute must for accuracy and considerable cloth must be packed
into each groove to completely seal the bore.
Your selection of the proper cloth patching should he based on an
understanding of the relationship between the bore of your rifle and the
roundball which will be used. Ball diameter must be less than that of the bore
and the cloth must not only fill the grooves but also allow a tight sliding fit
between the lands and the patched ball.  Follow the suggestions of your rifles
manufacturer concerning projectile diameter. Several companies make
specific diameters available either with the purchase of the gun or as a
component in a valuable accessory kit. Most other guns will have standard-
ized bore sizes and will be suited for one of the standard roundball diameters
such as .490, .495, .530 or .535. To make your final judgment on ball and
patch you must measure the bore.
The best way to measure the bore of our rifle is with a soft lead slug which
has the rifling engraved on its diameter.  Remove the barrel from the stock.
Slide a brass rod, which is about 12 long and just under bore diameter (about
3/8 or 7/16), into the barrel. Start an oversized slug into the muzzle and
drive it into the barrel approximately 2 using a brass punch. Now tip the
muzzle end of the barrel downwards so that the brass rod slides into the slug.
Repeat this procedure several times until the rod drives the slug from the
barrel. The engraved slug will have a perfect print of your bores dimension.
Now, with a micrometer, measure both the bore and groove diameter.
Heres a sample:
Groove - .526, Bore - .503
Incorrect
Correct
When a perfectly patched roundball is
driven through a barrel, it will show
cloth marks completely around its 
circumference, like the ball on the right.
These marks will be light where the ball
and patch touched the grooves and
heavy where they touched the lands. 
						

							10
We know the ball must be smaller than the bore diameter so lets select a
.498 diameter ball as the best choice for this bore.
With the ball adequately undersize (.005) to fit into the bore we now deter-
mine the needed patching thickness to seal the grooves.
Groove .526
Ball -.498
.028 difference
Now divide the difference by two and the minimum patching thickness is
determined: .014. Remember, there is a thickness of patching on each side of
the ball and the difference between the ball and groove diameters must be
halved to determine the thickness of cloth needed. Usually it is better to buy
cloth that is several thousandths of an inch thicker since the lubricated material
will compress upon loading.
Now that youre on the way–keep experimenting with your rifle. Vary the
powder charge, cleaning technique, patching or whatever. Thats part of the
fun of muzzle-loading. But remember to vary only one condition at a time so
you can easily keep track of cause and effect.
Lyman suggests that only natural-fiber cloth be used for patching; not 
synthetics or natural/synthetic blends. The heat of ignition can melt some 
synthetics resulting in inaccuracy and deposits in your bore. Furthermore,
Lyman suggests that plastic cups or patching systems not be used since there
can be inadvertent misuse which results in unsafe shooting conditions. Stick
with the traditional cloth patch.
HOW TO LOAD ...
The Minie, Solid-Base Conical, or Sabots in a Rifle
As for every muzzle-loading gun, there are several operations the wise shooter
performs before pouring the first powder charge down the bore. First, he dries
the bore and chamber area with clean patches and removes any oil 
accumulation visible in the nipple and vent. Next, the shooter will snap one or 
Groove Dia. .526
Bore
Dia. .503
Ball Diameter
Must Make Some
Allowance for
Patch Thickness
at Lands
Patch should be thick enough
to seal both lands and grooves. Patch thickness is related
to depth of the rifling. 
						

							11
two caps on the nipple to make sure the channel from the nipple through the
barrel wall is open. For a quick visual verification place the muzzle near a leaf,
blade of grass or similar object–cap blast will noticeably move it around if the
vent is clear. Finally, run the patch down the bore one last time to collect any
new debris. Now, youre ready to load and heres how it goes:
Set the guns butt on the ground with the barrel angled so the muzzle is well
away from your body.
Pour the measured charge down the barrel. Many shooters use pre-measured
charges loaded into cardboard or plastic tubing. The important thing to 
remember is not to load directly from a flask or horn. There have been instances
where an ember from the preceding shot has remained alive long enough to
ignite the next charge as it is dropped down the barrel. The resulting flash
touched off the powder within the flask, causing serious injury to the shooter.
Use a separate measure.
Conical or Minies
Push the lubricated conical, base-down, into the bore, place the recessed 
ramrod head over the nose and smoothly ram it home. Strive for a smooth
motion that leaves the bullet seated atop the powder without air space or
undue compression. Try to avoid jabbing or tamping the bullet for this may
cause the skirt/base to become deformed, which will certainly have an
adverse affect on the projectiles accuracy. Remember, unless the bullet is
seated fully and correctly, an air space may result–and that could mean a
bulged or split barrel. Uniformity in loading is the secret to good 
marksmanship when shooting a Minie or solid-base conical.
Conicals can shift off the powder charge and down towards the muzzle if you
carry the gun in even a slight barrel-down position. Hunters are particularly
exposed to this and should take special precautions: Stop frequently,
deprime/decap and use your ramrod to reseat the conical. Afterward,
reprime/recap and continue hunting.
Sabots
Sabot bullets are designed to be seated with the bullet inside of the sabot.
Never seat the sabot and bullet separately! Place the base of the sabot with a
bullet into the muzzle of the rifle and align it as straight as possible with the
bore. Using a ball starter, drive the sabot and bullet several inches into the
barrel. Use the recessed end of the ramrod to drive the sabot and bullet the
rest of the way down the barrel. Try to do this smoothly and firmly, seating
the base of the sabot against the powder charge. Uniformity in loading is key
to good accuracy.
Bring the hammer to full cock and press a percussion cap firmly over the 
nipple–you’re ready to fire. Lower the hammer to half-cock if the shot will
not be made right away. Since your rifle is equipped with a fly, the hammer
sear must be lowered past the half-cock notch and then brought back up and
into the notch. Half-cock is not a safety.
After firing, leave the hammer down over the exploded cap as you reload.
This restricts air circulation and helps smother any sparks left behind by your
preceding shot.
Remember–avoid having your hands or face directly over the muzzle
during the loading operation. After the gun is loaded follow the safety
rules used for modern firearms. 
						

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CONICAL BULLET SUITABILITY CHART
1.Bullet No. 454616–Popularly known as the Maxi-ball, this bullet is
designed specifically for the T/C Hawken with 1/48 twist and nominal
bore diameter of .45.
2. Bullet No. 457121PH–Designed for Navy Arms Parker-Hale Volunteer
rifles with 1/20 twists.  Casts a nominal .456/.453 diameter in pure
lead.
3.Bullet No. 504617–Designed for the Lyman Trade Rifle, Deerstalker,
T/C Hawken and other rifles with nominal .500 bore and 1/48 twist.
4. Bullet No. 508656–This is the .50 cal. version of our new Plains bullets
which offer greater bearing surface areas for improved accuracy. It also
features a two diameter design for easy loading.  Fits most traditional .50
cal. muzzleloaders.
5.Bullet No. 508668–This is the .50 cal. version of our new Shocker 
bullets. The two diameter design makes loading easy and the heavy
weight provides excellent knock down power. This bullet works best
with fast twist barrels. Available as a mould or as packaged bullets
6.Bullet No. 548669–This is the .54 cal. version of our new Shocker 
bullets. Like the .50 cal. design, this bullet loads easily and is an excel-
lent choice for hunting. It is designed for fast twist barrels, such as the
Lyman Great Plains Hunter. Available as a mould or as packaged bullets.
7. Bullet No. 548657–This is the .54 cal. version of our new Plains bullets.
Like the .50 cal. design, this is a two diameter bullet with a greater 
bearing surface area than common Maxi bullet designs. Fits most 
traditional .54 cal. muzzleloaders.
8. Bullet No. 575213–The standard of .58 shooters. Fits any .58 gun on the
market today. Does well with charges up to 70 grains FFg.
9. Bullet No. 575213PH–This is the same bullet as the 510 gr. 575213, but
with a shallow base plug which increases the bullets weight to 566
grains. Designed for Navy Arms .58 cal. Parker-Hale rifles.
10. Bullet No. 577611–This bullet takes up where the 213 leaves off at 70
grains of FFg. Fits any .58 gun on the market today a bit tighter and gun
will require cleaning more often.
.45
.50
454616
220 gr.457121PH
Conical
475 gr.504617
370 gr.508656
MAXI
395 gr.508668
Shocker
420 gr.
MUZZLELOADING RIFLES
.54.58 Orig. & Replica– 58 cal. Rifled Musket
548657
MAXI
450 gr.575213
OS, MINNIE
460 gr.
Old Style
548669 
Shocker
450 gr.575213PH
MINIE
566 gr.577611
MINIE
540 gr.
MUZZLELOADING RIFLES 
						

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DISASSEMBLY AND CLEANING OF
RIFLES AND  PLAINS PISTOL
You must clean your rifle or pistol after each shooting session to prevent rust
and corrosion from damaging the metal parts. The Lyman Great Plains Rifle,
Trade Rifle, Deerstalker or Plains Pistol may be easily disassembled for
cleaning by removing the ramrod, driving out the barrel wedge in the fore-
arm, drawing the hammer to full cock and lifting the barrel (muzzle first) out
of stock. The hooked breech will slip right out of the tang unit with no further
disassembly needed. Of course, these Lyman guns can be cleaned without any
disassembly but care should be taken to prevent water and solvents from
entering the stock or lock mechanism.
TWO CLEANING TECHNIQUES:
HOT SOAPY WATER–The traditional way to clean a muzzleloader.
1. Scrub the bore with a strong solution of hot soapy water. Wipe all powder
fouling from other metal parts.
2.Flush the barrel with the hottest clean water available. This not only
removes the soap but also heats the steel which helps in the drying process.
3. Dry all parts.
4. Apply a good coat of oil or moisture-displacing lubricant to all metal parts
and reassemble. A silicone gun rag is excellent for treating the exterior of
the muzzleloader.
5. Inspect for the next few days just to be safe.
MODERN SOLVENTS–Just as effective as soapy water if properly done.
Solvents designed specifically for black powder guns are now on the market
and the old standbys may be used as well.
1. Scrub the bore with brass brush and lots of patches. Wipe down all metal
parts.
2.Using plenty of clean patches, wipe the bore dry. All guns are supplied
with a cleaning jag of the proper size. The jag screws into the end of the
ramrod and will securely hold cleaning patches. Dry all metal parts.
3. Apply oil to all metal parts and reassemble. A silicone gun rag is excellent
for treating the exterior of the muzzleloader.
4. Inspect for the next few days just to be safe.
Cleaning Note
Note:The powder channel inside the breech plug is smaller than the bore
diameter and does not allow the cleaning jag to enter. Lyman recommends the
use of a .35 cal. cleaning brush and/or a slotted tip cleaning rod to reach into
this area. 
						

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Maximum Loads
Lyman Black Powder Guns
The following loads are maximum combinations of propellant and projectile
for Lyman Black Powder guns. Do Not Exceed!
Plains Pistol
.50 - .495 RB 40 grs. 3Fg
.54 - .535 RB 50 grs. 3 Fg
Rifles
.50 .495 RB 110 grs. 2Fg or 90 grs. 3Fg
240 gr. Sabot 100 grs. 2Fg or 90 grs. 3Fg
335 gr. Sabot 100 grs. 2Fg or 80 grs. 3Fg
420 gr. Maxi 100 grs. 2Fg or 80 grs. 3Fg
.54 .535 RB 120 grs. 2Fg or 100 grs. 3Fg
335 gr. Sabot 110 grs. 2Fg or 90 grs. 3Fg
450 gr. Maxi 110 grs. 2Fg or 90 grs. 3Fg
Round Ball Selection Guide
.50 cal. .490/.495 .54 cal. .530/.535
Note:Equivalent loads of Pyrodex RS, Select, or P are acceptable.
Pyrodex pellets are not recommended with Lyman side hammer guns
due to difficult ignition.
Lyman
®
Our new Shocker
Black Powder bullets are
guaranteed to out per-
form the competition.
The unique tapered
design allows easy 
loading. Lubricated with
new Lyman Black
Powder Gold assures a
perfect gas seal for best
accuracy. Semi-pointed design gives higher velocity and energy
to take big game quickly and cleanly out to .125 yards for total
performance get Lyman’s Shockers.
“SHOCKING PERFORMANCE”
Lymans New
Shocker™Muzzleloading Bullets
The Innovators in Lead Bullet Design.
Dept. 000. 475 Smith St. Middletown, CT 06457
Questions? Call toll free 1-800-22-LYMAN 
						

							15
SHOOTING TIPS
Black Powder Guide
Note: This chart is intended as a guide to show the appropriate uses of
Pyrodex and Black Powder. It is not necessary to follow them exactly.
FFFFG
Commonly called “Four F”, this is the finest
granulation and is used for priming flintlocks.
Due to its rather limited use, it is usually
somewhat difficult to obtain. When necessary,
FFFG may be substituted. There is no
Pyrodex equivalent.
FFFG/Pyrodex “P”
Commonly called “Triple F”, this powder is
used in most single shot pistols and all
percussion revolvers. It is also popular for all
smaller caliber rifles up to and including 50
caliber. When FFFFG is not available, FFFG
may be used to prime a flint lock.
FFG/Pyrodex “RS” and “Select”
Commonly called “Double F”, this is a popular
powder for rifles over 50 caliber and up to 75
caliber. Also used in the larger caliber single
shot pistols and most shotguns.
FG
Commonly called “Single F”, this is the
coarsest granulation used for small arms. Use
is pretty much restricted to rifles over 75 caliber
and large bore shotguns. There is no
Pyrodex equivalent.
FFFFG
FFFG
FFG
FG 
						

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REDUCING EXPOSURE:Lead contamination in the air, in dust, and on
your skin is invisible. Keep children and pregnant women away during use
and until cleanup is complete.
Risk can be reduced-but not eliminated-with strong ventilation; washing
hands immediately after use of these products before eating or smoking; and
careful cleaning of surfaces and floors with disposable wipes, after lead dust
has had a chance to settle. Use a lead specific cleaner with EDTA, or a high-
phosphate detergent (like most detergents sold for electric dishwashers) and
bag used wipes for disposal.
Use Strong Ventilation
WARNING: Melting lead and casting lead objects
will expose you and others in the area to lead, which
is known to cause birth defects, other reproductive
harm and cancer.
GETTING STARTED IN CASTING
Making the move into bullet casting is easy and relatively inexpensive, 
especially considering the satisfaction and enjoyment you will receive by
moulding your own minie, maxi and round balls.  In addition, the increased
per-shot economy will quickly defray the cost of the casting equipment. As a
muzzleloader, your start-up costs will also be reduced since you will not need
to purchase sizing and lubricating equipment.
CASTING ACCESSORIES
Lyman offers a complete line of bullet casting accessories including casting
furnaces; minie, maxi and round ball moulds and most other casting 
equipment. For the muzzleloader who is just starting out in casting, we 
recommend our Mini-Mag Furnace. This 400 watt furnace is designed to 
perfectly fill the needs of the black powder shooter. In about 30 minutes, this
furnace will bring 8 pounds of lead up to casting temperature.
For a complete listing of all Lymans casting equipment, please see our 
current catalog which is available by writing to:
Lyman Products, 475 Smith St., Middletown, CT 06457
or call 1-800-22-Lyman. 
						

							17
BULLET CASTING BASICS
The blackpowder shooter is almost always faced with the need to cast his
own bullets, be they round, conical or minies. A bullet mould is absolutely
necessary and generations of shooters have used–and continue to use–Lyman
precision bullet moulds. Other needed supplies include pure lead, melting pot,
ladle, fluxing substance, hammer handle/mallet and towel or blanket.
Caution:If you are melting lead on the kitchen stove, exercise care to avoid
lead contamination of stove, food and food preparation and serving utensils.
First carefully clean all oil and grease from your mould, both the cavity and
the precision-ground block faces. Now the mould is ready for casting.
Second, prepare your molten lead, flux and skim off the impurities. When
the molten lead is properly cleaned it will be a bright silver.
Caution:Breathing or ingestion of lead or vapors constitutes a potentially
serious health hazard.
Third, place your ladle in the pot and let it heat to the leads temperature.
Now arrange your towel to cushion the newly cast bullets as they drop from
the mould and place the hammer handle or mallet close by.
Youre all set.
Pour molten lead from the ladle into the mould in a rapid continuous manner.
Dont interrupt the pour or an imperfect bullet will result. The first few bullets
will be flawed regardless of your expertise because the mould itself needs to
be brought up to proper temperature. This can best be done by actually 
casting bullets and returning them to the melting pot.
As you finish pouring each bullet, grasp the mallet and strike the sprue cutter,
slicing through the lead in the pouring hole just above the bullets surface.
Caution:Dont drop sprue or flawed bullets directly from the mould into the pot.
Molten lead splashes easily. Periodically–and gently–return the scraps to the pot.
Lower the mould close to your towel and open the handles. The bullet should
drop freely to the pad. If it doesnt–especially after casting for a while–it may
well be overheating and due for a minutes rest!
After youve prepared the desired quantity of bullets be sure to close the
mould and position the sprue cutter as if you were about to pour. This will
allow the mould to cool with both blocks in perfect alignment. After the
mould has cooled, oil it well as it is especially susceptible to rust after the
lead has driven out most moisture. The mould will draw moisture from your
home –similar to a dry sponge.
The smart caster is well-protected from splashes of molten lead by gloves
and eye protection and works in a well-lighted and well-ventilated room. 
						

							18
SIGHT ADJUSTMENT
Lyman Muzzleloaders
Lymans Great Plains and Trade Rifles are shipped with two types of rear
sights. The shooter can choose the style preferred and save the other as a
spare.
Front Sight–The sights on these rifles are a combination of traditional
appearance and sighting principles proved in more modern times. The front
sight is a strong, one-piece, square blade design finished overall in a dark
blue/black.
This dark, thick blade permits close holding and fast sight alignment. Blades
which are polished brass or silver cause the shooter to shoot away from the
light due to glare on the blade.
The front sight may be left “as is” or reduced in height, by filing, to raise the 
point of impact.
Use a cold blue solution to re-blacken the sight after filing.
Adjustable Rear Sight–This traditional buckhorn rear sight allows minor ele-
vation adjustments without filing. Turn the screw clockwise to lower the
point of impact; counterclockwise to raise the point of impact. Windage
adjustments are made by carefully drifting the entire rear sight left or right.
Remember: move the rear sight in the direction you wish the ball to go.
The best way to “set up” this sight for both hunting and recreational shooting
is as follows:
1. Turn the elevation screw clockwise until the elevation arm bottoms in the
full “down” position.
2. Load rifle with your hunting charge and sight in at desired hunting range
perhaps 100 yards. File down front sight until the rifle shoots to exact point
of aim.
3. Since recreational shooting usually involves circular bullseye targets, the
rifle can usually be brought into the “ten ring” by using a six o’clock hold
and raising the elevator arm slightly.
The front and rear sight combine to produce the very efficient “Patridge”
sighting configuration which is perfect for most hunting and target shooting.
Primitive Rear Sight–This is a traditional one piece, fixed sight which allows
final shape and elevation adjustments to be filed into it by the shooter.
Windage adjustments are made by tapping the rear sight to the left or right as
you wish the bullet’s impact to shift.
Finished Sight