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Stihl 441 Cm Manual

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    							MS 441 C-M
    Bucking is cutting a log into sections.
    When bucking, do not stand on the log. 
    Make sure the log will not roll downhill. If 
    on a slope, stand on the uphill side of the 
    log. Watch out for rolling logs.
    Cut only one log at a time.
    Shattered wood should be cut very 
    carefully. Sharp slivers of wood may be 
    caught and flung in the direction of the 
    operator of the saw.When cutting small logs, place log 
    through "V"-shaped supports on top of a 
    sawhorse. Never permit another person 
    to hold the log. Never hold the log with 
    your leg or foot.Logs under strain:
    Risk of pinching! Always start relieving 
    cut (1) at compression side.Then make 
    bucking cut (2) at tension side. If the saw 
    pinches, stop the engine and remove it 
    from the log.
    Only properly trained professionals 
    should work in an area where the logs, 
    limbs and roots are tangled. Working in 
    "blow down" areas is extremely 
    hazardous. Drag the logs into a clear 
    area before cutting. Pull out exposed 
    and cleared logs first.
    Felling is cutting down a tree.
    Before felling a tree, consider carefully 
    all conditions which may affect the 
    direction of fall.
    001BA033 KN
    001BA051 LÄ
    001BA151 KN
    001BA152 KN
    							MS 441 C-M
    There are a number of factors that may 
    affect and change the intended direction 
    of fall, e.g. wind direction and speed, 
    lean of tree, surrounding trees and 
    obstacles, sloping ground, one-sided 
    limb structure, wood structure, decay, 
    snow load, etc. To reduce the risk of 
    severe or fatal injury to yourself or 
    others, look for these conditions prior to 
    beginning the cut, and be alert for a 
    change in direction while the tree is 
    Always observe the general condition of 
    the tree. Inexperienced users should 
    never attempt to cut trees that are 
    decayed or rotted inside or that are 
    leaning or otherwise under tension. 
    There is an increased risk that such 
    trees could snap or split while being cut 
    and cause serious or fatal injury to the 
    operator or bystanders. Also look for 
    broken or dead branches which could 
    vibrate loose and fall on the operator. 
    When felling on a slope, the operator 
    should stand on the uphill side if 
    possible.Felling Instructions
    When felling, maintain a distance of at 
    least 2 1/2 tree lengths from the nearest 
    When felling in the vicinity of roads, 
    railways and power lines, etc., take extra 
    precautions. Inform the police, utility 
    company or railway authority before 
    beginning to cut.
    The noise of your engine may drown any 
    warning call.Escape Path
    First clear the tree base and work area 
    from interfering limbs and brush and 
    clean its lower portion with an ax.
    Then, establish two paths of escape (B) 
    and remove all obstacles. These paths 
    should be generally opposite to the 
    planned direction of the fall of the tree 
    (A) and about at a 45° angle. Place all 
    tools and equipment a safe distance 
    away from the tree, but not on the 
    escape paths.
    001BA088 LÄ2/1
    001BA040 KN
    							MS 441 C-M
    21 Buttress Roots
    If the tree has large buttress roots, cut 
    into the largest buttress vertically first 
    (horizontally next) and remove the 
    resulting piece.
    Gunning Sight
    When making the felling notch, use the 
    gunning sight on the shroud and housing 
    to check the desired direction of fall:
    Position the saw so that the gunning 
    sight points exactly in the direction you 
    want the tree to fall.Conventional Cut
    Felling notch (C) – determines the 
    direction of the fall
    For a conventional cut:
    NProperly place felling notch 
    perpendicular to the line of fall, 
    close to the ground.
    NCut down at approx. 45° angle to a 
    depth of about 1/5 to 1/4 of the trunk 
    NMake second cut horizontal.
    NRemove resulting 45° piece.Open-face Technique
    Felling notch (C) – determines the 
    direction of the fall
    For an open-face cut:
    NProperly place felling notch 
    perpendicular to the line of fall, 
    close to the ground.
    NCut down at approx. 50° angle to a 
    depth of approx.1/5 to 1/4 of the 
    trunk diameter.
    NMake second cut from below at 
    approx. 40 degree angle.
    NRemove resulting 90° piece.
    001BA146 KN
    001BA153 KN
    001BA143 KN
    							MS 441 C-M
    22 Making Sapwood Cuts
    NFor medium sized or larger trees 
    make cuts at both sides of the trunk, 
    at same height as subsequent 
    felling cut.
    NCut to no more than width of guide 
    This is especially important in softwood 
    in summer – it helps prevent sapwood 
    splintering when the tree falls.D =Felling Cut 
    Conventional and open-face technique:
    NBegin 1 to 2 inches (2,5 to 5 cm) 
    higher than center of felling notch.
    NCut horizontally towards the felling 
    NLeave approx.1/10 of diameter 
    uncut. This is the hinge.
    NDo not cut through the hinge – you 
    could lose control of the direction of 
    the fall.
    Drive wedges into the felling cut where 
    necessary to control the fall.
    If the tip of the bar contacts a wedge, it 
    may cause kickback. Wedges should be 
    of wood or plastic – never steel, which 
    can damage the chain.E = Hinge
    NHelps control the falling tree.
    NDo not cut through the hinge – you 
    could lose control of the direction of 
    the fall.
    001BA150 KN001BA144 KN
    001BA145 KN
    							MS 441 C-M
    23 Felling Cut for Small Diameter Trees: 
    Simple Fan Cut
    Engage the bumper spikes of the chain 
    saw directly behind the location of the 
    intended hinge and pivot the saw around 
    this point only as far as the hinge. The 
    bumper spike rolls against the trunk.Felling Cut for Large Diameter Trees
    Felling a tree that has a diameter greater 
    than the length of the guide bar requires 
    use of either the sectioning felling cut or 
    plunge-cut method. These methods are 
    extremely dangerous because they 
    involve the use of the nose of the guide 
    bar and can result in kickback. Only 
    properly trained professionals should 
    attempt these techniques.
    Sectioning Method
    For the sectioning method make the first 
    part of the felling cut with the guide bar 
    fanning in toward the hinge. Then, using 
    the bumper spike as a pivot, reposition 
    the saw for the next cut.Avoid repositioning the saw more than 
    necessary. When repositioning for the 
    next cut, keep the guide bar fully 
    engaged in the kerf to keep the felling 
    cut straight. If the saw begins to pinch, 
    insert a wedge to open the cut. On the 
    last cut, do not cut the hinge.
    Plunge-cut Method
    Timber having a diameter more than 
    twice the length of the guide bar requires 
    the use of the plunge-cut method before 
    making the felling cut.
    First, cut a large, wide felling notch. 
    Make a plunge cut in the center of the 
    001BA147 KN
    001BA148 KN
    							MS 441 C-M
    24 The plunge cut is made with the guide 
    bar nose. Begin the plunge cut by 
    applying the lower portion of the guide 
    bar nose to the tree at an angle. Cut until 
    the depth of the kerf is about the same 
    as the width of the guide bar. Next, align 
    the saw in the direction in which the 
    recess is to be cut.
    With the saw at full throttle, insert the 
    guide bar in the trunk.
    Enlarge the plunge cut as shown in the 
    There is an extreme danger of kickback 
    at this point. Extra caution must be taken 
    to maintain control of the saw. To make 
    the felling cut, follow the sectioning 
    method described previously.
    If you are inexperienced with a chain 
    saw, plunge-cutting should not be 
    attempted. Seek the help of a 
    In order to reduce the risk of personal 
    injury, never stand directly behind the 
    tree when it is about to fall, since part of 
    the trunk may split and come back 
    towards the operator (barber-chairing), 
    or the tree may jump backwards off the 
    stump. Always keep to the side of the 
    falling tree. When the tree starts to fall, 
    withdraw the bar, shut off the engine and 
    walk away on the preplanned escape 
    path. Watch out for falling limbs.
    Be extremely careful with partially fallen 
    trees which are poorly supported. When 
    the tree hangs or for some other reason 
    does not fall completely, set the saw 
    aside and pull the tree down with a cable 
    winch, block and tackle or tractor. If you 
    try to cut it down with your saw, you may 
    be injured.
    Maintenance, replacement, or repair of 
    the emission control devices and 
    systems may be performed by any 
    nonroad engine repair establishment or 
    individual. However, if you make a 
    warranty claim for a component which 
    has not been serviced or maintained 
    properly or if nonapproved replacement 
    parts were used, STIHL may deny 
    Use only identical STIHL replacement 
    parts for maintenance and repair. Use of 
    non-STIHL parts may cause serious or 
    fatal injury.
    Strictly follow the maintenance and 
    repair instructions in the appropriate 
    section of your instruction manual. 
    Please refer to the maintenance chart in 
    this manual.
    Always stop the engine and make sure 
    that the cutting tool is stopped before 
    doing any maintenance or repair work or 
    cleaning the power tool.
    Do not attempt any maintenance or 
    repair work not described in your 
    instruction manual. Have such work 
    performed by your STIHL servicing 
    dealer only. For example, if improper 
    tools are used to remove the flywheel or 
    if an improper tool is used to hold the 
    flywheel in order to remove the clutch, 
    structural damage to the flywheel could 
    occur and could subsequently cause the 
    flywheel to burst.
    Wear gloves when handling or 
    performing maintenance on saw chains.
    Use the specified spark plug and make 
    sure it and the ignition lead are always 
    clean and in good condition. Always 
    press spark plug boot snugly onto spark 
    plug terminal of the proper size. (Note: If 
    terminal has detachable SAE adapter  
    							MS 441 C-M
    25 nut, it must be securely attached.) A 
    loose connection between spark plug 
    terminal and the ignition wire connector 
    in the boot may create arcing that could 
    ignite combustible fumes and cause a 
    Never test the ignition system with the 
    spark plug boot removed from the spark 
    plug or with a removed spark plug, since 
    uncontained sparking may cause a fire.
    Do not operate your power tool if the 
    muffler is damaged, missing or modified. 
    An improperly maintained muffler will 
    increase the risk of fire and hearing loss. 
    Your muffler is equipped with a spark-
    arresting screen to reduce the risk of 
    fire; never operate your power tool if the 
    screen is missing, damaged or clogged. 
    Remember that the risk of a brush or 
    forest fire is greater in hot or dry 
    In California, it is a violation of § 4442 or 
    § 4443 of the Public Resources Code to 
    use or operate gasoline-powered tools 
    on forest-covered, brush-covered or 
    grass-covered land unless the engine’s 
    exhaust system is equipped with a 
    complying spark arrester that is 
    maintained in effective working order. 
    The owner/operator of this product is 
    responsible for properly maintaining the 
    spark arrester. Other states or 
    governmental entities/agencies, such as 
    the U.S. Forest Service, may have 
    similar requirements. Contact your local 
    fire agency or forest service for the laws 
    or regulations relating to fire protection 
    requirements.Keep the chain, bar and sprocket clean; 
    replace worn sprockets or chains. Keep 
    the chain sharp. You can spot a dull 
    chain when easy-to-cut wood becomes 
    hard to cut and burn marks appear on 
    the wood. Keep the chain at proper 
    Tighten all nuts, bolts and screws after 
    each use.
    In order for the chain brake on your 
    STIHL chain saw to properly perform its 
    function of reducing the risk of kickback 
    and other injuries, it must be properly 
    maintained. Like an automobile brake, a 
    chain saw chain brake incurs wear each 
    time it is engaged.
    The amount of wear will vary depending 
    upon usage, conditions under which the 
    saw is used and other factors. Excessive 
    wear will reduce the effectiveness of the 
    chain brake and can render it 
    For the proper and effective operation of 
    the chain brake, the brake band and 
    clutch drum must be kept free of dirt, 
    grease and other foreign matter which 
    may reduce friction of the band on the 
    For these reasons, each STIHL chain 
    saw should be returned to trained 
    personnel such as your STIHL servicing 
    dealer for periodic inspection and 
    servicing of the brake system according 
    to the following schedule:
    Heavy usage – every three months, 
    Moderate usage – twice a year, 
    Occasional usage – annually.The chain saw should also be returned 
    immediately for maintenance whenever 
    the brake system cannot be thoroughly 
    cleaned or there is a change in its 
    operating characteristics.
    For any maintenance of the emission 
    control system please refer to the 
    maintenance chart and to the limited 
    warranty statement near the end of the 
    instruction manual.
    Do not clean your machine with a 
    pressure washer. The solid jet of water 
    may damage parts of the machine.
    S t o r e  c h a i n  s a w  i n  a  d r y  p l a c e  a n d  a w a y  
    from children. Before storing for longer 
    than a few days, always empty the fuel 
    tank (see chapter "Storing the Machine" 
    in the instruction manual). 
    							MS 441 C-M
    26 A cutting attachment consists of the saw 
    chain, guide bar and chain sprocket.
    The cutting attachment that comes 
    standard is designed to exactly match 
    the chain saw.
    –The pitch (t) of the saw chain (1), 
    chain sprocket and the nose 
    sprocket of the Rollomatic guide bar 
    must match.
    –The drive link gauge (2) of the saw 
    chain (1) must match the groove 
    width of the guide bar (3).
    If non-matching components are used, 
    the cutting attachment may be damaged 
    beyond repair after a short period of 
    Chain scabbard
    Your saw comes standard with a chain 
    scabbard that matches the cutting 
    If you use guide bars of different lengths 
    on the saw, the length of the chain 
    scabbard must be matched to the guide 
    bar to reduce the risk of injury. It should 
    cover the full length of the guide bar.
    The length of the matching guide bars is 
    marked on the side of the chain 
    Chain scabbard extensions
    One chain scabbard extension is 
    required for guide bars longer than 
    35.4 in (90 cm). Two extensions are 
    required for guide bars longer than 
    47.2 in (120 cm).
    Depending on original equipment, the 
    chain scabbard extension either comes 
    with the machine or is available as a 
    special accessory.Fitting chain scabbard extension
    NPush the chain scabbard 
    extension (1) and chain 
    scabbard (2) together, making sure 
    the locking tabs (3) engage in the 
    chain scabbard
    NIf more than one chain scabbard 
    extension is required, push the 
    second chain scabbard extension 
    and the first chain scabbard  
    extension together, making sure the 
    locking tabs (3) engage in the first 
    chain scabbard extensionCutting Attachment
    001BA248 KN
    001BA244 KN001BA249 KN3
    001BA250 KN
    							MS 441 C-M
    Removing the chain sprocket cover
    NUnscrew the nuts and take off the 
    chain sprocket cover.
    NTurn the screw (1) 
    counterclockwise until the tensioner 
    slide (2) butts against the left end of 
    the housing slot.
    Disengaging the chain brake.
    NPull the hand guarad towards the 
    front handle until there is an audible 
    click – the chain brake is 
    Fitting the chain
    Wear work gloves to protect your hands 
    from the sharp cutters.
    NFit the chain – start at the bar nose.NFit the guide bar over the studs (1) – 
    the cutting edges on the top of the 
    bar must point to the right.
    NEngage the peg of the tensioner 
    slide in the locating hole (2) –- place 
    the chain over sprocket (3) at the 
    same time.
    NTurn the tensioning 
    screw (4)clockwise until there is 
    very little chain sag on the 
    underside of the bar – and the drive 
    link tangs are engaged in the bar 
    NRefit the sprocket cover and screw 
    on the nuts only fingertight.
    NGo to chapter on "Tensioning the 
    Saw Chain"
    Mounting the Bar and Chain
    143BA034 KN
    001BA185 KN
    001BA186 KN
    143BA003 KN
    001BA187 KN 
    							MS 441 C-M
    28 Retensioning during cutting work:
    NShut off the engine.
    NLoosen the nuts.
    NHold the bar nose up.
    NUse a screwdriver to turn the 
    tensioning screw (1) clockwise until 
    the chain fits snugly against the 
    underside of the bar.
    NWhile still holding the bar nose up, 
    tighten down the nuts firmly.
    NGo to "Checking Chain Tension".
    A new chain has to be retensioned more 
    often than one that has been in use for 
    some time.
    NCheck chain tension frequently – 
    see chapter on "Operating 
    Instructions".NShut off the engine.
    NWear work gloves to protect your 
    NThe chain must fit snugly against 
    the underside of the bar and it must 
    still be possible to pull the chain 
    along the bar by hand.
    NIf necessary, retension the chain.
    A new chain has to be retensioned more 
    often than one that has been in use for 
    some time.
    NCheck chain tension frequently – 
    see chapter on "Operating 
    Instructions".This engine is certified to operate on 
    unleaded gasoline and STIHL two-
    stroke engine oil at a mix ratio of 50:1.
    Your engine requires a mixture of high-
    quality gasoline and two-stroke air 
    cooled engine oil.
    Use mid-grade unleaded gasoline with a 
    minimum octane rating of 89 (R+M/2) 
    and no more than 10% ethanol content.
    Fuel with a lower octane rating may 
    increase engine temperatures. This, in 
    turn, increases the risk of piston seizure 
    and damage to the engine.
    The chemical composition of the fuel is 
    also important. Some fuel additives not 
    only detrimentally affect elastomers 
    (carburetor diaphragms, oil seals, fuel 
    lines, etc.), but magnesium castings and 
    catalytic converters as well. This could 
    cause running problems or even 
    damage the engine. For this reason 
    STIHL recommends that you use only 
    high-quality unleaded gasoline!
    For further details, see 
    Use only STIHL two-stroke engine oil or 
    equivalent high-quality two-stroke 
    engine oils that are designed for use 
    only in air cooled two-cycle engines.
    To ensure the maximum performance of 
    your STIHL engine, use a high quality 2-
    cycle engine oil. To help your engine run 
    cleaner and reduce harmful carbon 
    deposits, STIHL recommends using 
    STIHL HP Ultra 2-cycle engine oil or ask 
    your dealer for an equivalent fully 
    synthetic 2-cycle engine oil. 
    Tensioning the Chain
    133BA024 KN
    143BA007 KN
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