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Singer Serger Professional 5 Manual

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    							30
    To change thread type or color, clip thread near thespool.
    Place new thread on stand.
    Tie new thread and old thread ends together with a square knot. Clip thread tails to 2~3cm (1 inch)
    length. If clipped too short, threads may come
    untied.
    Firmly pull both thread to test knot security.
    Raise Presser foot
    to release Tension discs. by lowering presser bar lifter
    Pull the threads through the machine one at a time.
    If threads do not pull easily, check for tangles on
    thread guides or looping under thread stand.
    When pulling thread through the needles, STOP
    when the knot is in front of the needle.
    Cut the thread, and insert it through the needle.
    13. HOW TO CHANGE THREADS: TIE ON METHOD 
    						
    							(3/8)
    9.8 mm
    needle
    7.8 mm
    Chain stitch
    (5/16)
    Left needle
    (13/64)
    7mm
    (17/64) 5mm
    Right needle
    3mm
    (1/8)
    5mm
    (3/16) needle
    8.8 mm
    Chain stitch
    (11/32)
    (10/64)
    (15/64)
    Left needle Right needle
    6.0 mm
    4.0 mm
    31
    The stitch length dial should be set on the N
    setting for most sewing conditions.
    Adjust the stitch length to N~ 4 when sewing heavy weight fabrics.
    Adjust the stitch length to 2~N when sewing lightweight fabrics to obtain excellent seams
    without puckering.
    Overedge seam width can be achieved by
    repositioning the needle position and also with the
    width adjustment knob.
    Overedge seam width can be adjusted by changing
    the needle position.
    a) When using left needle.................................6 mm (15/64 inch)
    b) When only right needle is used....................4 mm (10/64 inch)
    c) When using chain stitch needle.................8.8 mm (11/32 inch)
    Use of width adjustment knob will permit further
    adjustment within the width range shown below.
    a) When using left needle...............................5~7mm (13/64 ~ 17/64 inch)
    b) When only right needle is used............3.0 ~ 5.0 mm (1/8 ~ 3/16 inch)
    c) When using chain stitch needle............7.8 ~ 9.8 mm (5/16 ~ 3/8 inch)
    4
    3
    N
    2
    Width Adjustment by Changing Needle Position
    Width Adjustment with Adjustment Knob
    14. HOW TO ADJUST THE STITCHLENGTH
    15. HOW TO ADJUST THE SEAM WIDTH 
    						
    							5
    6.5
    N
    5.5
    4
    N 2
    1
    32
    As shown on the illustration, turn the dialcounter clockwise to increase width of cutting, and
    clockwise to decrease width of cutting.
    The presser foot pressure of this machine is
    pre-adjusted at the factory to suit the sewing of
    medium weight fabrics.
    Most of the materials do not require adjustment of
    presser foot pressure. However, there are some
    instances where adjustment is necessary, such as
    when sewing lightweight and heavyweight fabrics.
    In such case, N for normal, 1 for the lightest pressure,
    and 5 for the heaviest.
    For lightweight fabric...Decrease the pressure
    For heavyweight fabric...Increase the pressure
    16. HOW TO ADJUST THE PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE
    Width adjustment knob 
    						
    							33
    Differential feed is a system which stretches or
    gathers the fabric, when the amount of feed of front
    feed dogs in relation to the rear feed dogs is changed.
    The differential feed ratio ranges from 1:0.6~1:2.0.
    Adjustment is made by means of the differential feed adjusting dial pictured at right.
    Use of differential feed is very effective in overedging
    stretch fabrics and fabrics cut on the bias.
    Setting N is differential feed adjusting dial
    setting for ratio 1:1.
    Gathered overedge is most suited for shirring
    sleeves, yokes, front and back bodices, skirt hems,
    etc. in stretch fabrics such as knits and jersey before
    assembling into garment.
    Set differential feed adjusting dial below
    setting N. Setting of adjusting dial
    depends on material being sewn as well as the
    amount of desired gather. Therefore, set dial to suit the
    fabric and test sew before sewing your garment.
    Note: For normal overedge stitching, set differential feed adjusting dial to graduation N.
    0.8
    0.6 N
    1.5
    2.0 N
    0.8 0.6 2.0
    1.5
    To set the differential feed adjusting dial for gathering Gathered Overedge
    17. DIFFERENTIAL FEED 
    						
    							N
    0.8 0.6 2.0
    1.5
    34
    Stretch overedge is ideal for sewing decorative
    collars, sleeves, skirt hems, etc. on loosely knit and
    woven fabrics.
    Set differential feed adjusting lever knob above
    setting N.
    To sew a seam, apply gentle tension to the fabric by holding the seam lightly in front and back of the
    presser foot.
    Note: *if amount of stretch is not correctly set in relation to the fabric being sewn, the fabric
    is apt to shift away from the needle
    resulting in improperly sewn overedge
    seam. In such case, reset differential feed
    adjusting dial closer to the center mark.
    *Be sure to reset the differential feed adjusting dial to graduation N for
    normal overedge stitching.
    Stretch Overedge
    To set the differential feed adjusting dial for stretch 
    						
    							21
    2
    1
    Caution:
    Caution:
    35
    Open looper cover (page 12).
    Pull the movable knife holder to the right as far as
    it will go.
    Turn the holder toward counter clockwise until the
    knife clicks into a lock position.
    Be sure to turn off power switch.
    Open looper cover.
    Pull the movable knife holder to the right as far as
    it will go.
    Turn the holder clockwise until the knife clicks into the
    working position
    Always close looper cover before operating
    machine.
    To place movable knife in working positionTo place movable knife in nonworking position
    18. HOW TO DISENGAGE MOVABLE
    UPPER KNIFE 
    						
    							36
    To engage the spread , raise the white handle on the
    spreader to insert the tip into theer
    eye of upper looper.
    When not threading the upper looper, the spreader
    must be engaged into the upper looper eye.
    When using the upper looper, the spread must beer
    disengaged.
    Be sure to turn off power switch.
    To disengage the spreader, lower the white handle on
    the spreader.
    19. TO CONVERT UPPER LOOPER TO SPREADER
    To Use the Spreader
    To Disengage to Upper Looper
    Caution: 
    						
    							R N R N
    37
    Set seam width finger knob to N to move seam
    width finger to standard overedge sewing position.
    Set seam width finger knob to R to retract the seam
    width finger and set it for rolled hem.
    Note: Be sure to push seam width finger knob as far as it will go in the direction of setting R.
    Note: Be sure to push seam width finger knob as
    far as it will go in the direction of setting N.
    To Sew Rolled Hem
    To Sew Standard Overedge
    20. STANDARD OVEREDGE AND ROLLED
    HEM STITCHING 
    						
    							38
    Note: The following instructions do not apply to coverstitch. For instructions on cover stitch, see
    page 49 How to Sew a Cover Stitch.
    When the machine is completely threaded, bring all
    of the threads across the needle plate and slightly to
    the left under the presser foot.
    Hold the threads and apply a slight tension.
    Turn the hand wheel toward you 2 or 3 complete
    turns to start the thread chain.
    Lower presser foot by lowering presser bar lifter.
    Continue holding the chain and press on the foot
    controller until the chain is 5~7.5 cm (2~3 inches)
    in length.
    Place fabric under the front of the presser foot and
    sew a test sample.
    Note: Do not pull on the fabric while sewing as this may deflect the needle, causing it to break.
    At the end of the sample, continue to run the
    machine with the presser foot down until the chain
    reaches 15 ~20 cm (6~8 inches) in length.
    Note: In case it is difficult to chain off when chain stitching, pull the fabric lightly
    backward.
    Cut thread.
    Note: Anytime you have rethreaded the machine always chain off and sew a text sample totest tensions and make adjustments as
    necessary.
    A mark to indicate the needle location is provided
    on the presser foot fitted on this machine. Use
    this mark as a guide when sewing.
    Mark Mark
    21. CHAINING OFF AND TEST
    SEWING
    Information 
    						
    							39
    Tension is automatically set when seiecting the
    desired stitch type with the Auto Tension Dial (ATD).
    Tension may be fine tuned with the Fine Tuning Levers
    according to the following variables:
    1) Type and thickness of fabric
    2) Needle size
    3) Size, type and fibre content of thread
    * Stitch length for double chain stitch should beset at over 2mm.
    When the chain stitch needle thread tension is too loose;
    -Move the needle thread tension fine tuning lever (blue)
    toward a higher position.
    -Or, move the chain stitch looper thread tension fine tuning
    lever (brown) toward a lower position.
    Set auto tension dial to D and
    as shown on illustration
    test sew on a sample of your fabric.
    Needle threadTopside Underside
    Chain stitch
    looper thread
    Medium weight
    FabricRed
    Blue Green
    Orange Brown
    Tension Dial
    Topside
    Underside
    STITCH LENGTH
    NEEDLE POSITION
    SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB
    DRIVING CULTCH POSITION
    Needle thread Chain stitch
    looper thread C R
    2~4
    1) Double Chain stitch
    How to Balance Correct Balance
    22. SETTINGS AND SEWINGATD:D 
    						
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