Brother Innovis 4500 D Manual
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SEWING THE STITCHES Utility Stitches 89 3 Blind Hem Stitches Select from these stitches to sew the hems or cuffs of dresses, blouses, pants, or skirts. a aa aSelect a stitch. b bb bPlace the fabric wrong side up, and fold and baste the fabric. a 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) b Basting stitches c cc cFold the fabric again. a 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) b Wrong side of fabric c Basting stitches d dd dAttach blind hem stitch foot “R ”, and lower the presser foot. Position the fabric so the folded edge touches the guide of the presser foot. a Guide b Fold e ee eSew the fabric, keeping the folded edge in contact with the presser foot. a Needle position StitchStitch namePresser footApplications Stitch width [mm (inch.)]Stitch length [mm (inch.)]Tw i n needle Auto.ManualAuto.Manual Blind hem stitch Hemming woven fabrics 0.0 (0) +3.0 - -3.0 (+1/8 - -1/8) 2.0 (1/16) 1.0 - 3.5 (1/16 - 1/8) NO Blind hem stitch stretch Hemming stretch fabric 0.0 (0) +3.0 - -3.0 (+1/8 - -1/8) 2.0 (1/16) 1.0 - 3.5 (1/16 - 1/8) NO a b aba c c a b R a
SEWING THE STITCHES 90 f ff fRemove the basting stitches and turn the fabric over. a Wrong side of fabric b Right side of fabric If the Needle does not Catch the Fold Adjust the width so that the needle slightly catches the fold by pressing in the width display. If the Needle Catches Too Much of the Fold Adjust the width so that the needle slightly catches the fold by pressing in the width display. Appliqu é a aa aUse a temporary spray adhesive, fabric glue or a basting stitch to attach the appliqué to the fabric. * This will keep the fabric from moving during sewing. a Appliqué b Fabric glue b bb bSelect or . * Adjust the stitch length and width to correspond to the appliqué shape, size, and quality of material (see page 49). c cc cAttach presser foot “ J”. Check that the needle drops slightly off the edge of the appliqué , then start sewing. aAppliqué material a Needle drop position Memo Blind hem stitches cannot be sewn if the left needle drop point does not catch the fold. If the needle catches too much of the fold, the fabric cannot be unfolded and the seam appearing on the right side of the fabric will be very large, leaving an unattractive finish. If you experience either of these cases, follow the instructions below to solve the problem. ab Memo For details on each stitch, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART ” at the end of this manual. b a a
SEWING THE STITCHES Utility Stitches 91 3 Sewing Sharp Curves Stop the machine with the needle in the fabric outside the appliqué. Raise the presser foot and turn the fabric a little bit at a time while sewing for an attractive finish to the seam. Shelltuck Stitches Shelltuck stitches give an attractive appearance of shells along the curve of a collar. This stitch pattern can be used for edging the neckline or sleeves of dresses and blouses. a aa aSelect . b bb bIncrease the upper thread tension for an attractive scallop finish to the shelltuck stitches (see page 50). c cc cTo make rows of shell tuck stitches, fold the fabric in half along the bias. d dd dAttach presser foot “J” . Set the needle drop point slightly off the edge of the fabric, and start sewing. a Needle drop position e ee eUnfold the fabric, and iron the tucks to one side. Memo Placing a lightweight tear away stabilizer beneath the stitching area will improve the stitch placement along the edge of the appli- qu é fabric. Memo For details on each stitch, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART ” at the end of this manual. Memo If the upper thread tension is too weak, the shelltuck stitches will not scallop. Memo Use a thin fabric. Memo To make shell tucks at the edge of a collar or neckline, follow the pattern ’s instructions and then use this stitch to make a decorative finish on the collar or neckline. a
SEWING THE STITCHES 92 Scallop Stitches This wave-shaped satin stitch is called the scallop stitch. Use this stitch to decorate the edges of blouse collars and handkerchiefs or use it as a hem accent. a aa aSelect . b bb bAttach presser foot “ N”. Sew scallop stitches along the edge of the fabric. * Do not sew directly on the edge of the fabric. c cc cTrim along the seam, making sure not to cut the stitches. Top Stitching For a decorative look called “Crazy Quilting”, the following stitches can be sewn on top of a pressed seam allowance. a aa aSelect a straight stitch and attach presser foot “J” . b bb bWith the right sides facing each other, sew two pieces of fabric together, and then press open the seam allowance. a Straight stitch b Seam margins c 6.5 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) d Wrong side c cc cSelect a stitch for top stitching. d dd dPlace the fabric right side up in the machine, and center the presser foot over the seam when sewing. a Right side of fabric Memo A temporary spray adhesive may be neces- sary for lightweight fabrics. Test sew the fabric before sewing a project. Memo For details on each stitch, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART ” at the end of this manual. Memo Use a seam sealant to secure the edges of the scallop stitches. c b a d d
SEWING THE STITCHES Utility Stitches 93 3 Smocking Stitches Use smocking stitches for decorative sewing on clothes, etc. a aa aSelect a straight stitch and attach presser foot “J” . b bb bSet the stitch length to 4.0 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) and loosen the upper thread tension to approximately 2.0 (See pages 49 through 50). c cc cPull the bobbin and upper threads out by 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches). d dd dSew the seams, leaving approximately 10 mm (approx. 3/8 inch) between the seams, then trim excess thread, leaving 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches). a Approximately 10 mm (approx. 3/8 inch) e ee ePull the bobbin threads to obtain the desired amount of gather, and then smooth the gathers by ironing them. f ff fSelect or . g gg gSew the spaces between the straight seams. h hh hPull out the straight stitch threads. Fagoting When there is a space between two fabrics with thread sewn over the space to join the fabrics together, it is called fagoting. Use this stitch when sewing blouses or children’s clothes. a aa aBaste two pieces of fabric onto thin paper, leaving a space of 4 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) between the fabrics. a 4.0 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) b Paper c Basting stitches b bb bSelect or . Memo For details on each stitch, refer to the “ STITCH SETTING CHART ” at the end of this manual. a Memo For details on each stitch, refer to the “ STITCH SETTING CHART ” at the end of this manual. J ba c
SEWING THE STITCHES 94 c cc cAttach presser foot “ J”. Align the center of the presser foot with the middle of the space between the fabrics and begin sewing. a Basting stitches d dd dWhen sewing is finished, gently tear the paper away. Tape or Elastic Attaching a aa aSelect a straight stitch and attach presser foot “J” . b bb bSet the stitch length to 4.0 mm (approx. 3/16 inch), and loosen the upper thread tension to 2.0 (See pages 49 through 50). c cc cSew two rows of straight stitches on the right side of the fabric, then pull the bobbin thread to create the necessary gather. d dd dPlace the tape over the gather, and hold it in place with basting pins. a Tape e ee eSelect or . f ff fSew over the tape (or elastic). g gg gPull out the straight stitch threads. Memo Use a thick thread. Memo Be sure that neither automatic reinforcement nor automatic thread cutting is selected. Memo Before sewing the straight stitch, rotate the handwheel and pull up the bobbin thread. Holding the top and bobbin thread, pull a length of thread out from the rear of the machine. (Be sure that the presser foot is raised.) a Memo For details on each stitch, refer to the “ STITCH SETTING CHART ” at the end of this manual. CAUTION Be sure the needle does not strike a basting pin, or any other objects, during sewing. The thread could tangle or the needle could break, causing injury. a
SEWING THE STITCHES Utility Stitches 95 3 Heirloom Hemstitching (1) (Daisy Stitch) Use for sewing tablecloths, decorative hems, and decorative stitching on shirt fronts. a aa aInsert a type 130/705H, size 100/16 Wing needle. b bb bSelect a stitch and attach presser foot “ N”. * Select any stitch between 3-01 and 3-25. c cc cStart sewing. Example: Illustration of finished product Hemstitching (2) (Drawn Work (1)) a aa aPull out several threads from one area on a piece of fabric to open the area. * Pull out 5 or 6 threads to leave a 3 mm (approx. 1/8 inch) area open. b bb bSelect . c cc cAttach presser foot “N ”. With the right side of the fabric facing up, sew one edge of the open area. Memo Use a light to medium weight homespun fabric with a little stiffness. CAUTION The “Automatic Threading ” button cannot be used. Thread the wing needle by hand, from front to back. Refer to “Threading Manually” on page 31. Using the “Automatic Threading” button may result in damage to the machine. A more attractive finish can be obtained if you use a “ 130/705H Wing ” needle when sewing these patterns. If using a wing needle and the stitch width has been set manually, check that the needle will not touch the presser foot by carefully rotating the handwheel before starting sewing. Memo For details on each stitch, refer to the “STITCH SETTING CHART ” at the end of this manual. Memo Loosely woven fabrics work best for this. Memo For details on each stitch, refer to the “ STITCH SETTING CHART ” at the end of this manual. N
SEWING THE STITCHES 96 d dd dPress to create a mirror image of the stitch. e ee eSew the opposite side to keep the stitch symmetrical. Hemstitching (3) (Drawn Work (2)) a aa aPull out several threads from both sides of the 4 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) area which are not yet open. * Pull out four threads, leave five threads, and then pull out four threads. The width of five threads is approximately 4 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) or less. a Approx. 4 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) or less b Four threads (pull out) c Five threads (leave) b bb bSelect . c cc cSew the decorative stitch in the center of the five threads created above. N Memo For details on each stitch, refer to the “ STITCH SETTING CHART ” at the end of this manual. Memo A wing needle can be used for Hemstitching (3). a b bc N
SEWING THE STITCHES Utility Stitches 97 3 One-step Buttonholes With one-step buttonholes, you can make buttonholes appropriate to the size of your button. StitchStitch namePresser footApplications Stitch width [mm (inch.)]Stitch length [mm (inch.)]Tw i n needle Auto.ManualAuto.Manual Narrow rounded buttonhole Buttonhole on light to medium weight fabrics 5.0 (3/16) 3.0 - 5.0 (1/8 - 3/16) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) NO Wide round ended buttonhole Buttonholes with extra space for larger buttons 5.5 (7/32) 3.5 - 5.5 (1/8 - 7/32) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) NO Tapered round ended buttonhole Reinforced waist tapered buttonholes 5.0 (3/16) 3.0 - 5.0 (1/8 - 3/16) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) NO Round ended buttonhole Buttonholes with vertical bar tack in heavyweight fabrics 5.0 (3/16) 3.0 - 5.0 (1/8 - 3/16) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) NO Round ended buttonhole Buttonholes with bar tack 5.0 (3/16) 3.0 - 5.0 (1/8 - 3/16) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) NO Round double ended buttonhole Buttonholes for fine, medium to heavyweight fabrics 5.0 (3/16) 3.0 - 5.0 (1/8 - 3/16) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) NO Narrow squared buttonhole Buttonholes for light to medium weight fabrics 5.0 (3/16) 3.0 - 5.0 (1/8 - 3/16) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) NO Wide squared buttonhole Buttonholes with extra space for larger decorative buttons 5.5 (7/32) 3.5 - 5.5 (1/8 - 7/32) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) NO Squared buttonhole Heavy-duty buttonholes with vertical bar tacks5.0 (7/32) 3.0 - 5.0 (1/8 - 3/16) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) NO Stretch buttonhole Buttonholes for stretch or woven fabrics6.0 (15/ 64) 3.0 - 6.0 (1/8 - 15/64) 1.0 (1/16) 0.5 - 2.0 (1/32 - 1/16) NO Heirloom buttonhole Buttonholes for heirloom and stretch fabrics6.0 (15/ 64) 3.0 - 6.0 (1/8 - 15/64) 1.5 (1/16) 1.0 - 3.0 (1/1 - 1/8) NO Bound buttonhole The first step in making bound buttonholes5.0 (3/16) 0.0 - 6.0 (0 - 15/64) 2.0 (1/16) 0.2 - 4.0 (1/64 - 3/16) NO Keyhole buttonhole Buttonholes in heavyweight or thick fabrics for larger flat buttons7.0 (1/4) 3.0 - 7.0 (1/8 - 1/4) 0.5 (1/32) 0.3 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) NO Tapered keyhole buttonhole Buttonholes in medium to heavy weight fabrics for larger flat buttons7.0 (1/4) 3.0 - 7.0 (1/8 - 1/4) 0.5 (1/32) 0.3 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) NO Keyhole buttonhole Buttonholes with vertical bar tack for reinforcement in heavyweight or thick fabrics7.0 (1/4) 3.0 - 7.0 (1/8 - 1/4) 0.5 (1/32) 0.3 - 1.0 (1/64 - 1/16) NO
SEWING THE STITCHES 98 One-step buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below. aReinforcement stitching a aa aSelect a buttonhole stitch, and attach buttonhole foot “A” . b bb bMark the position and length of the buttonhole on the fabric. c cc cPull out the button holder plate on the presser foot, and insert the button that will be put through the buttonhole. Then tighten the button holder plate around the button. a Button holder plate a a a a Memo The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (approx. 1-1/16 inches) (diameter + thickness of the button). Memo The size of the buttonhole is decided by the button holder plate holding the button. a