Brother Innovis 4500 D Manual

							CHANGING THE NEEDLE
Getting Ready
39
1
CHANGING THE NEEDLE
a
aa aPress the  “Needle Position”  button to raise 
the needle.
b
bb
bPress .
* If “OK to automatically lower the presser foot?” 
appears on the LCD screen, press OK to continue.
→ The entire screen becomes white, and all keys and 
operation buttons are locked.
c
cc cUse the screwdriver to turn the screw 
toward the front of the machine and loosen 
the screw, then remove the needle.
 CAUTION
 Always press   on the screen before changing the needle. If   is not pressed and the Start/
Stop button or another operation button is pressed accidentally, the machine will start and injury may 
result.
 Use only sewing machine needles made for home use. Other needles may bend or break and may cause 
injury.
 Never sew with a bent needle. A bent needle will easily break and may cause injury. 
Memo
To check the needle correctly, place the flat 
side of the needle on a flat surface. Check the 
needle from the top and the sides. Throw 
away any bent needles.
a Parallel space
b Level surface (bobbin cover, glass, etc.)
Note
Before replacing the needle, cover the hole in 
the needle plate with fabric or paper to prevent 
the needle from falling into the machine.
b a
Note

Do not apply pressure to the needle clamp 
screw. Doing so may damage the needle or 
machine. 
						

							CHANGING THE NEEDLE
40
dWith the flat side of the needle facing the 
back, insert the new needle all the way to 
the top of the needle stopper (viewing 
window) in the needle clamp. Use a 
screwdriver to securely tighten the needle 
clamp screw.
aNeedle stopper
b Hole for setting the needle
c Flat side of needle
ePress   to unlock all keys and 
buttons.
 CAUTION
• Be sure to push in the needle until it touches 
the stopper, and securely tighten the needle 
clamp screw with a screwdriver. If the needle 
is not completely inserted or the needle clamp 
screw is loose, the needle may break or the 
machine may be damaged.
a
c b 
						

							CHANGING THE NEEDLE
Getting Ready
41
1
■About the Needle
The sewing machine needle is probably the most important part of the sewing machine. Choosing the proper 
needle for your sewing project will result in a beautiful finish and fewer problems. Below are some things to keep 
in mind about needles.
• The smaller the needle number, the finer the needle. As the numbers increase, the needles get thicker.
 Use fine needles with lightweight fabrics, and thicker needles with heavyweight fabrics.
 To avoid skipped stitches, use ball point needle (golden colored) 90/14 with stretch fabrics.
 To avoid skipped stitches, use ball point needle (golden colored) 90/14 when sewing character or decorative 
stitches.
 Use needle 75/11 for embroidery. Use ball point needle 75/107 for embroidering patterns with short jump  stitches such as alphabet characters when the thread trimming function is turned on. Ball point needles 
(golden colored) 90/14 are not recommended for embroidery, as they may bend or break, causing injury.
 It is recommended that a 90/14 needle should be used when embroidering on heavyweight fabrics or  stabilizing products (for example, denim, puffy foam, etc.). A 75/11 needle may bend or break, which could 
result in injury.
■Fabric/Thread/Needle Combinations
The following table provides information concerning the appropriate thread and needle for various fabrics. 
Please refer to this table when selecting a thread and needle for the fabric you wish to use.
FabricThreadSize of needle
Ty peSize
Medium weight fabric Broadcloth Cotton 60 - 80 75/11 - 90/14
Taffeta Synthetic mercerized 60 - 80
Flannel, Gabardine Silk  or silk finished 50
Lightweight fabric Lawn, Batiste Cotton 60 - 80 65/9 - 75/11
Georgette Synthetic mercerized 60 - 80
Challis, Satin Silk 50
Heavyweight fabric DenimCotton 30 - 50 90/14 - 100/16
Corduroy Synthetic mercerized 50
Tweed Silk 50
Stretch fabric JerseyThread for knits 50 - 60 Ball point needle 
(golden colored)75/11 - 90/14
Tr i c o t
Easily frayed fabrics  Cotton thread50 - 80 65/9 - 90/14
Synthetic thread
Silk thread  50
For top stitching Synthetic mercerized30 90/14 - 100/16
Silk 30
Memo
For transparent nylon thread, always use needle 90/14 - 100/16.
The same thread is usually used for the bobbin thread and upper threading.
 CAUTION
• Be sure to follow the needle, thread, and fabric combinations listed in the table. Using an improper 
combination, especially a heavyweight fabric (i.e., denim) with a small needle (i.e., 65/9 - 75/11), may 
cause the needle to bend or break, and lead to injury. Also, the seam may be uneven, the fabric may 
pucker, or the machine may skip stitches. 
						

							CHANGING THE NEEDLE
42 
						

							Chapter 2
Sewing Basics
SEWING ........................................................................\
...................... 44
Sewing a Stitch ........................................................................................................ 44

Using the Foot Controller ................................................................................................ 45
Sewing Reinforcement Stitches ............................................................................... 46
Sewing Curves ......................................................................................................... 46
Changing Sewing Direction ..................................................................................... 46

Sewing a Seam Allowance of 0.5 cm or Less ................................................................... 46
Sewing Heavyweight Fabrics ................................................................................... 47

If the Fabric does not Fit under the Presser Foot ............................................................. 47

 If the Fabric does not Feed ........................................................................\
...................... 47
Sewing Lightweight Fabrics ..................................................................................... 48
Sewing Stretch Fabrics ............................................................................................ 48
STITCH SETTINGS .........................................................................\
...... 49
Setting the Stitch Width .......................................................................................... 49
Setting the Stitch Length ......................................................................................... 49
Setting the Thread Tension ...................................................................................... 50

Proper Thread Tension .................................................................................................... 50

 Upper Thread is Too Tight............................................................................................... 50

 Upper Thread is Too Loose.............................................................................................. 50
USEFUL FUNCTIONS .........................................................................\
. 51
Automatic Reinforcement Stitching ........................................................................ 51
Automatic Thread Cutting ....................................................................................... 52

Using the Knee Lifter ....................................................................................................... 53
Pivoting ................................................................................................................... 53
Automatic Fabric Sensor System (Automatic Presser Foot Pressure) ....................... 55
Locking the Screen .................................................................................................. 55 
						

							SEWING
44
SEWING
Sewing a Stitch
a
aa aTurn the main power to ON, and push the 
“ Needle Position”  button to raise the 
needle.
b
bb bPress the key of the stitch you want to sew.
→ The symbol of the correct presser foot will be 
displayed in the upper left corner of the LCD.
c
cc cInstall the presser foot (see  “CHANGING 
THE PRESSER FOOT ” on page 37).
d
dd
dSet the fabric under the presser foot. Hold 
the fabric and thread ends in your left hand, 
and turn the handwheel to set the needle in 
the sewing start position.
e
ee eLower the presser foot.
* You do not have to pull up the bobbin thread. 
f
ff
fAdjust the sewing speed with the speed 
control slide.
* You can use this slide to adjust sewing speed during 
sewing.
a Slow
b Fast 
 CAUTION
To avoid injury, pay special attention to the needle while the machine is in operation. Keep your hands 
away from moving parts while the machine is in operation.
 Do not stretch or pull the fabric during sewing. Doing so may lead to injury. 
 Do not use bent or broken needles. Doing so may lead to injury.
 Take care that the needle does not strike basting pins or other objects during sewing. Otherwise, the 
needle may break and cause injury.
 If stitches become bunched, lengthen the stitch length setting before continuing sewing. Otherwise, the 
needle may break and cause injury. 
 CAUTION
Always use the correct presser foot. If the 
wrong presser foot is used, the needle may 
strike the presser foot and bend or break, 
possibly resulting in injury. 
Memo
The black button on the left side of presser 
foot  “J”  should be pressed only if the fabric 
does not feed or when sewing thick seams 
(see page 47). Normally, you can sew without 
pressing the black button.
ab 
						

							SEWING
Sewing Basics
45
2
g
gg gPress the  “Start/Stop ” button to start 
sewing.
* Guide the fabric lightly by hand.
h
hh
hPress the  “Start/Stop ” button again to stop 
sewing.
i
ii
iPress the  “Thread Cutter ” button to trim 
the threads.
→ The needle will return to the up position 
automatically.
j
jj jWhen the needle has stopped moving, raise 
the presser foot and remove the fabric. 

 Using the Foot Controller
You can also use the foot controller to start and stop 
sewing.
a
aa aInsert the foot controller plug into its jack 
on the machine.
a Foot controller
b Foot controller jack
 CAUTION
Do not press the  “Thread Cutter” button after 
the threads have been cut. Doing so could 
tangle the thread or break the needle and 
damage the machine.
 Do not press the  “Thread Cutter” button when 
there is no fabric set in the machine or during 
machine operation. The thread may tangle, 
possibly resulting in damage. 
Note
 When cutting thread thicker than #30, nylon 
thread, or other decorative threads, use the 
thread cutter on the side of the machine.
Memo
This machine is equipped with a bobbin thread 
sensor that warns you when the bobbin thread 
is almost empty. When the bobbin thread is 
nearly empty, the machine automatically 
stops. However, if the  “Start/Stop ” button is 
pressed, a few stitches can be sewn. If the 
warning displays, re-thread the machine 
immediately.
 CAUTION
Do not allow fabric pieces and dust to collect in 
the foot controller. Doing so could cause a fire or 
an electric shock.
Memo
 When the foot controller is being used, the 
“Start/Stop”  button has no effect on sewing.
 The foot controller cannot be used when 
embroidering.
 The foot controller can be used for sewing 
utility and decorative stitches when the 
embroidery unit is attached.
Note
Do not pull the retractable cord out beyond the 
red mark on the cord.
b
a 
						

							SEWING
46
b
bb bSlowly depress the foot controller to start 
sewing.
c
cc cRelease the foot controller to stop the 
machine.
Sewing Reinforcement Stitches 
Reverse/reinforcement stitches are generally 
necessary at the beginning and end of sewing. You 
can use the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button 
to sew reverse/reinforcement stitches manually 
(see page 3). 
If the automatic reinforcement stitch is selected on 
the screen, reverse stitches (or reinforcement 
stitches) will be sewn automatically at the 
beginning of sewing when the “Start/Stop” button 
is pressed. Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement 
Stitch” button to sew reverse stitches (or 
reinforcement stitches) automatically at the end of 
sewing (see page 51).
Sewing Curves
Sew slowly while keeping the seam parallel with 
the fabric edge as you guide the fabric around the 
curve.
Changing Sewing Direction 
Stop the machine. Leave the needle in the fabric, 
and press the “Presser Foot Lifter” button to raise 
the presser foot. Using the needle as a pivot, turn 
the fabric so that you can sew in the new 
direction. Press the “Presser Foot Lifter” button to 
lower the presser foot and start sewing.
The pivot setting is useful when changing the 
sewing direction. When the machine is stopped at 
the corner of the fabric, the machine stops with the 
needle in the fabric and the presser foot is 
automatically raised so the fabric can easily be 
rotated (see “Pivoting” on page 53).

 Sewing a Seam Allowance of 0.5 cm 
or Less
Baste the corner before sewing, and then, after 
changing the sewing direction at the corner, pull the 
basting thread toward the back while sewing.
a 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) 
Memo
The speed set using the sewing speed con-
troller is the foot controller ’s maximum sewing 
speed.
Memo
(For U.S.A. only)
Foot controller: Model S
This foot controller can be used with model 
NV4500D
a 
						

							SEWING
Sewing Basics
47
2
Sewing Heavyweight Fabrics
The sewing machine can sew fabrics up to 6 mm 
(approx. 1/4 inch) thick. If the thickness of a seam 
causes sewing to occur at an angle, help guide the 
fabric by hand and sew on the downward slope.

If the Fabric does not Fit under the 
Presser Foot
If the presser foot is in the up position, and you are 
sewing heavyweight or multiple layers of fabric 
which do not fit easily under the presser foot, use 
the presser foot lever to raise the presser foot to its 
highest position. The fabric will now fit under the 
presser foot.

If the Fabric does not Feed
If the fabric does not feed when starting to sew or 
when sewing thick seams, press the black button on 
the left side of presser foot “J”. 
a
aa aRaise the presser foot. 
b
bb
bWhile keeping the black button on the left 
side of presser foot  “J”  pressed in, press the 
“ Presser Foot Lifter”  button to lower the 
presser foot.
c
cc cRelease the button.
→ The presser foot remains level, enabling the fabric to 
be fed.
 CAUTION
Do not forcefully push fabrics more than 
6 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) thick through the 
sewing machine. This may cause the needle to 
break and cause injury.
Memo
You cannot use the presser foot lever after the 
presser foot has been raised using the 
“Presser Foot Lifter ” button.
Memo
 Once the trouble spot has been passed, the 
foot will return to its normal position.
 When  “AUTOMATIC FABRIC SENSOR 
SYSTEM ” (Automatic Presser Foot Pres-
sure) in the machine settings screen is set to 
“ ON ”, the thickness of the fabric is automati-
cally detected by the internal sensor so the 
fabric can be fed smoothly for best sewing 
results. (See page 55 for details.) 
						

							SEWING
48
Sewing Lightweight Fabrics 
Place thin paper or tear away embroidery 
stabilizer under thin fabrics to make sewing easier. 
Gently tear off the paper or the stabilizer after 
sewing.
aThin paper
Sewing Stretch Fabrics
First, baste together the pieces of fabric, and then 
sew without stretching the fabric.
In addition, a better result can be achieved by 
using thread for knits or a stretch stitch.
aBasting stitching
Memo
For best results when sewing stretch fabrics, 
decrease the pressure of the presser foot.
a
a