Brother Innovis 4500 D Manual

							SEWING THE STITCHES
Utility Stitches
99
3
d
dd dAlign the presser foot with the mark on the 
fabric, and lower the presser foot.
a Mark on the fabric 
b Marks on the presser foot
e
ee eLower the buttonhole lever so that it is 
positioned behind the metal bracket on the 
buttonhole foot.
a Buttonhole lever
a Metal bracket 
f
ff fGently hold the end of the upper thread, 
and then start sewing. 
* Feed the fabric carefully by hand while the 
buttonhole is sewn.
→ Once sewing is completed, the machine 
automatically sews reinforcement stitches, and then 
stops.
g
gg gInsert a pin along the inside of one of the 
bar tacks, and then insert the seam ripper 
into the center of the buttonhole and cut 
towards the pin.
a Basting pin
b Seam ripper
Note
Pass the thread underneath the presser 
foot. 
 Slide the outside frame of the buttonhole 
foot backward as far as possible as shown in 
the illustration, making sure that there is no 
gap behind the part of the foot marked “ A”. If 
the buttonhole foot is not slid back as far as 
possible, the buttonhole will not be sewn at 
the correct size.
A
a
b
a
a
Memo
If automatic thread cutting is turned on before 
you start sewing, both threads are automati-
cally cut after the reinforcement stitches are 
sewn. If the fabric does not feed (for example, 
because it is too thick), increase the stitch 
length setting.
 CAUTION
When using the seam ripper to open the 
buttonhole, do not put your hand or finger in the 
path of the ripper. The ripper may slip and cause 
injury. Do not use the seam ripper in any other 
way than how it is intended. 
						

							SEWING THE STITCHES
100

Sewing Stretch Fabrics 
When sewing on stretch fabric with   or  , 
sew the buttonhole stitches over a gimp thread. 
a
aa aHook the gimp thread onto the back of 
presser foot  “A” . Insert the ends into the 
grooves at the front of the presser foot, and 
then temporarily tie them there.
a Upper thread 
b
bb bLower the presser foot and start sewing.
c
cc
cOnce sewing is completed, gently pull the 
gimp thread to remove any slack, and trim 
off any excess.

 Odd Shaped Buttons/Buttons that do 
not Fit into the Button Holder Plate 
Use the markings on the presser foot scale to set the 
size of the buttonhole. One mark on the presser foot 
scale equals 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch). 
Add the button diameter and thickness together, and 
then set the plate at the calculated value.
a Presser foot scale 
b Button holder plate 
c Completed measurement of diameter + thickness 
d 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) 
Memo
For keyhole buttonholes, use the eyelet punch 
to make a hole in the rounded end of the but-
tonhole. Then insert a pin along the inside of 
one of the bar tacks, insert a seam ripper into 
the hole made with the eyelet punch, and cut 
towards the pin. 
a Eyelet punch 
b Basting pin
Memo
Set the width of the satin stitches to the width 
of the gimp thread, and set the buttonhole 
width to be 2-3 times the width of the gimp 
thread.
a
b
a
Memo
After using the seam ripper to cut open the 
threads over the buttonhole, trim off the 
threads.
Memo
For example, for a button with a diameter of 
15 mm (approx. 9/16 inch) and a thickness of 
10 mm (approx. 3/8 inch), the scale should be 
set at 25 mm (approx. 1 inch).
a
10 mm (approx. 3/8 inch) 
b 15 mm (approx. 9/16 inch) 
a b
d
c
a
b 
						

							SEWING THE STITCHES
Utility Stitches
101
3
Four-step Buttonholes
You can sew 4-step buttonholes using the following 4 stitches together. You can sew any desired length 
for the buttonhole when using 4-step buttonholes. 4-step buttonholes are a good option when attaching 
oversize buttons. 
Four-step buttonholes are sewn as shown below.
a
aa aMark the position and length of the 
buttonhole on the fabric.
a Marks on fabric
b Finished stitching
b
bb bAttach monogramming foot  “N ”, and select 
stitch   to sew the left side of the 
buttonhole.
Note
When changing the stitch settings for the left side of the buttonhole, make sure that all setting should be 
changed to match.
StitchStitch namePresser 
footApplications
Stitch width 
[mm (inch.)]Stitch length  [mm (inch.)]Tw i n  
needle
Auto.ManualAuto.Manual
4 step buttonhole 1 Left side of 4 step buttonhole
5.0
(7/32) 1.5 - 7.0
(1/16 - 1/4) 0.4
(1/64) 0.2 - 1.0
(1/64 - 1/16) NO
4 step buttonhole 2 Bar tack of 4 step buttonhole
5.0
(7/32) 1.5 - 7.0
(1/16 - 1/4) 0.4
(1/64) 0.2 - 1.0
(1/64 - 1/16) NO
4 step buttonhole 3 Right side of 4 step buttonhole
5.0
(7/32) 1.5 - 7.0
(1/16 - 1/4) 0.4
(1/64) 0.2 - 1.0
(1/64 - 1/16) NO
4 step buttonhole 4 Bar tack of 4 step buttonhole
5.0
(7/32) 1.5 - 7.0
(1/16 - 1/4) 0.4
(1/64) 0.2 - 1.0
(1/64 - 1/16) NO
a
b 
						

							SEWING THE STITCHES
102
c
cc cPress the  “Start/Stop”  button to start 
sewing.
d
dd
dSew the desired length for the buttonhole 
and press the  “Start/Stop ” button again.
e
ee eSelect stitch   to sew the bar tack and 
press the  “Start/Stop”  button.
→The machine will automatically stop after sewing 
the bar tack.
f
ff fSelect stitch   to sew the right side of the 
buttonhole, and press the “ Start/Stop” 
button to begin sewing.
g
gg gSew the right side of the buttonhole and 
press the  “Start/Stop”  button again.
* Sew the right side of the buttonhole the same length 
as the left.
h
hh hSelect stitch   to sew the bar tack and 
then press the  “Start/Stop ” button.
→ The machine will automatically sew off the bar tack 
tie and stop when the bar tack is complete.
i
ii iRaise the presser foot and remove the 
fabric.
j
jj jRefer to page 99 to open the buttonhole. 
						

							SEWING THE STITCHES
Utility Stitches
103
3

Darning 
Use darning stitches for mending and other applications.
Darning is performed by sewing from the front of the presser foot to the back as shown below.
a Reinforcement stitches 
a
aa aSelect a stitch, and attach buttonhole foot 
“ A ”.
b
bb bSet the scale to the desired length of the 
darning.
a Presser foot scale 
b Completed length measurement 
c Width 7 mm (approx. 1/4 inch) 
d 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) 
c
cc cCheck that the needle drops at the desired 
position and lower the presser foot, making 
sure the upper thread passes underneath 
the buttonhole foot.
StitchStitch namePresser 
footApplications
Stitch width 
[mm (inch.)]Stitch length  [mm (inch.)]Tw i n  
needle
Auto.ManualAuto.Manual
Darning Darning of medium weight fabric
7.0
(1/4) 2.5 - 7.0
(3/32 - 1/4) 2.0
(1/16) 0.4 - 2.5
(1/64 - 1/16) NO
Darning Darning of heavyweight fabric
7.0
(1/4) 2.5 - 7.0
(3/32 - 1/4) 2.0
(1/16) 0.4 - 2.5
(1/64 - 1/16) NO
a
a
Memo
The maximum length for darning is 28 mm 
(approx. 1-1/16 inches). 
a
b
c d
Note

Pass the thread underneath the presser 
foot.
 Set the presser foot so that there is no gap 
behind the section marked with an  “A ” (the 
shaded area in the illustration below). If 
there is a gap, the size of the darning will not 
be correct.  
						

							SEWING THE STITCHES
104
d
dd dLower the buttonhole lever so that it is 
positioned behind the metal bracket on the 
buttonhole foot.
a Buttonhole lever
a Metal bracket 
e
ee eGently hold the end of the upper thread, 
and then press the  “Start/Stop ” button to 
start the machine. 
→ Once sewing is completed, the machine 
automatically sews reinforcement stitches, and then 
stops.
Memo
If automatic thread cutting is turned on before 
you start sewing, both threads are automati-
cally cut after the reinforcement stitches are 
sewn. If the fabric does not feed (for example, 
because it is too thick), increase the stitch 
length setting. 
a
a 
						

							SEWING THE STITCHES
Utility Stitches
105
3
Bar Tacks 
Use bar tacks to reinforce areas that will be subject to strain, such as pocket corners.\
 
a
aa aSelect .
b
bb
bAttach buttonhole foot “ A” and set the 
scale to the length of the bar tack you wish 
to sew.
a Presser foot scale 
b Completed length measurement 
c 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch)
c
cc cSet the fabric so that the pocket moves 
towards you during sewing.
d
dd dCheck the first needle drop point and lower 
the presser foot.
a 2 mm (approx. 1/16 inch) 
StitchStitch namePresser 
footApplications
Stitch width 
[mm (inch.)]Stitch length  [mm (inch.)]Tw i n  
needle
Auto.ManualAuto.Manual
Bar tack Reinforcement at opening of 
pocket, etc.2.0
(1/16) 1.0 - 3.0
(1/16 - 1/8) 0.4
(1/64) 0.3 - 1.0
(1/64 - 1/16) NO
Memo
Bar tacks can be between 5 mm (approx. 
3/16 inch) and 28 mm (approx. 1-1/16 inches). 
Bar tacks are usually between 5 mm (approx. 
3/16 inch) and 10 mm (approx. 3/8 inch).
a
c
b
Note

Pass the thread underneath the presser 
foot. 
 Slide the outside frame of the buttonhole 
foot backward as far as possible as shown in 
the illustration, making sure that there is no 
gap behind the part of the foot marked  “A ”. If 
the buttonhole foot is not slid back as far as 
possible, the bar tack will not be sewn to the 
correct size.
a 
						

							SEWING THE STITCHES
106
e
ee eLower the buttonhole lever so that it is 
positioned behind the metal bracket on the 
buttonhole foot.
a Metal bracket 
f
ff fGently hold the end of the upper thread and 
begin sewing. 
→ When sewing is completed, the machine will sew 
reinforcement stitches and stop automatically.

Bar Tacks on Thick Fabrics
Place a piece of folded fabric or cardboard beside 
the fabric being sewn to level the buttonhole foot 
and allow for easier feeding.
a Presser foot 
b Thick paper
c Fabric 
a
Memo
If automatic thread cutting is turned on before 
you start sewing, both threads are automati-
cally cut after the reinforcement stitches are 
sewn. If the fabric does not feed (for example, 
because it is too thick), increase the stitch 
length setting.
a
bc 
						

							SEWING THE STITCHES
Utility Stitches
107
3
Button Sewing 
Buttons can be sewn on using the machine.
Buttons with 2 or 4 holes can be attached.
a
aa aSelect .
b
bb
bRaise the presser foot and detach the flat 
bed table attachment. 
c
cc cLower the feed dog position switch to   
to lower the feed dogs.
a Feed dog position switch 
d
dd dAttach button sewing foot  “M ”, slide the 
button along the metal plate and into the 
presser foot, and lower the presser foot.
a Button
b Metal plate
e
ee eTurn the handwheel to check that the 
needle goes into each hole correctly. 
* If the needle does not reach the holes on the left 
side, adjust the stitch width.
* To attach the button more securely, repeat the 
process. 
f
ff fGently hold the end of the upper thread and 
start sewing. 
→ The machine stops automatically when sewing is 
finished.
g
gg gFrom the wrong side of the fabric, pull the 
end of the bobbin thread to pull the upper 
thread through to the wrong side of the 
fabric. Tie the two thread ends together and 
cut the threads.
StitchStitch namePresser 
footApplications
Stitch width 
[mm (inch.)]Stitch length  [mm (inch.)]Tw i n  
needle
Auto.ManualAuto.Manual
Button sewing Attaching buttons
3.5
(1/8) 2.5 - 4.5
(3/32 - 3/16) —
— NO
Note
Do not use the automatic thread cutting function when sewing buttons. Otherwise, you will lose the 
thread ends. 
a
ab
 CAUTION
Make sure the needle does not strike the button 
during sewing. The needle may break and cause 
injury.  
						

							SEWING THE STITCHES
108

Attaching 4 Hole Buttons
Sew the two holes closest to you. Then raise the 
presser foot and move the fabric so that the needle 
goes into the next two holes, and sew them in the 
same way. 

Attaching a Shank to the Button 
a
aa aPull the shank lever toward you before 
sewing.
a Shank lever 
b
bb bPull the two ends of the upper thread 
between the button and the fabric, wind 
them around the shank, and then tie them 
firmly together. 
c
cc cTie the ends of the bobbin thread from the 
beginning and end of sewing together on 
the wrong side of the fabric.
d
dd dCut off any excess thread.
a
Note
 When sewing is completed, be sure to return 
the feed dog position switch to its original 
position.
a Feed dog position switch 
a