Brother Innovis 4500 D Manual

							SELECTING UTILITY STITCHES
Utility Stitches
59
3
Selecting a Stitch
a
aa aTurn the main power to ON.
→ Either “1-01 Straight stitch (Left)” or “1-03 Straight 
stitch (Middle)” is selected, depending on the setting 
selected in the setting screen.
b
bb bUse   to select the 
category you want.
* Press   to view this screen if another screen  displays. 
* Press   to view the next page.
a Preview of the selected stitch
b Stitch selection screen 
c
cc cPress the key of the stitch you want to sew.
 

 Using the Mirror Image Key 
Depending on the type of utility stitch you select, 
you may be able to sew a horizontal mirror image of 
the stitch.
If   is lit when you select a stitch, it will be 
possible to make a mirror image of the stitch. 
Press   to create a horizontal mirror image of 
the selected stitch.
The key will display as  .

Using the Image Key
You can display an image of the selected stitch. You 
can also check and change the colors of the image 
on the screen.
a
aa aPress .
→ An image of the selected stitch is displayed.
Memo
For details on each stitch, refer to the 
“STITCH SETTING CHART ” at the end of this 
manual.
a
b
Note
If   is light gray after you select a stitch, 
you cannot create a horizontal mirror image of 
the selected stitch (this is true of buttonholes, 
multi-directional sewing, and others).  
						

							SELECTING UTILITY STITCHES
60
b
bb bPress   to change the thread color of 
the stitch on the screen. 
* Press   to display an enlarged image of the 
stitch.
a Stitch screen
c
cc cPress   to go back to the original 
screen.
Saving Your Stitch Settings 
The settings for the zigzag stitch width, stitch 
length, thread tension, automatic thread cutting, 
automatic reinforcement stitching, etc., are preset 
in the machine for each stitch. However, if you 
have specific settings that you wish to reuse later 
for a stitch, you can change the settings so that 
they can be saved for that stitch. Five sets of 
settings can be saved for a single stitch.

 Saving Settings
a
aa aSelect a stitch. (Example:  )
b
bb
bSpecify your preferred settings.
Memo

The color changes every time you press 
.
 The units of the stitch display area are in 
mm.
a 
						

							SELECTING UTILITY STITCHES
Utility Stitches
61
3
c
cc cPress .
→ The settings are saved and the original screen 
automatically appears.

Retrieving Saved Settings
a
aa aSelect a stitch.
b
bb
bPress .
c
cc
cPress the numbered key of the settings to be 
retrieved.
* Press   to return to the original screen 
without retrieving settings.
a Numbered keys
d
dd dPress .
→ The selected settings are retrieved, and the original 
screen automatically appears.
Using the Sewing Type Selection 
Key 
You can also select utility stitches using  . 
Use this key when you are not sure which stitch to 
use for your application, or to get advice about 
sewing particular stitches. For example, if you 
want to sew overcasting, but you do not know 
which stitch to use or how to sew the stitch, you 
can use this screen to get advice. We recommend 
that beginners use this method to select stitches. 
Memo
If you try to save settings when there are 
already 5 sets of settings saved for a stitch, the 
message 
“The pockets are full. Delete a pat-
tern”  will appear. Close the message and refer 
to “ Deleting Saved Settings ” on this page.
Memo
When a stitch is selected, the last settings 
retrieved are displayed. The last settings 
retrieved are retained even if the machine was 
turned off or a different stitch was selected.
Memo
Deleting Saved Settings
You can delete the selected setting by press-
ing  . Press the numbered key of the 
setting to be deleted. Press  , press 
 and then  . The new setting 
will be saved in place of the recently deleted 
setting.
a 
						

							SELECTING UTILITY STITCHES
62
Example:Displaying information about 
overcasting
a
aa aPress .
→ The advice screen is displayed.
b
bb
bPress .
* Press   to return to the original screen.
→ The upper part of the screen displays a selection of 
overcasting stitches with explanations. 
c
cc cRead the explanations and select the 
appropriate stitch.
* Press   or   to scroll the page.
→ The screen displays directions for sewing the 
selected stitch.
d
dd dFollow the directions to sew the stitch. 
* Press   to view the next page. 
						

							SEWING THE STITCHES
Utility Stitches
63
3
SEWING THE STITCHES
Straight Stitches
StitchStitch namePresser footApplications
Stitch width 
[mm (inch.)]Stitch length  [mm (inch.)]Tw i n  
needle
Auto.ManualAuto.Manual
Straight stitch (Left) General sewing, gather, pintuck, 
etc. Reverse stitch is sewn while 
pressing “Reverse/
Reinforcement Stitch ” button. 0.0
(0) 0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4) 2.5
(3/32) 0.2 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16) OK
( J )
Straight stitch (Left) General sewing, gather, pintuck, 
etc. Reinforcement stitch is sewn 
while pressing “Reverse/
Reinforcement Stitch ” button. 0.0
(0) 0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4) 2.5
(3/32) 0.2 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16) OK
( J )
Straight stitch 
(Middle) General sewing, gather, pintuck, 
etc. Reverse stitch is sewn while 
pressing “
Reverse/
Reinforcement Stitch ” button. 3.5
(1/8) 0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4) 2.5
(3/32) 0.2 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16) OK
( J )
Straight stitch 
(Middle) General sewing, gather, pintuck, 
etc. Reinforcement stitch is sewn 
while pressing “
Reverse/
Reinforcement Stitch ” button. 3.5
(1/8) 0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4) 2.5
(3/32) 0.2 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16) OK
( J )
Triple stretch stitch General sewing for 
reinforcement and decorative 
topstitching0.0
(0) 0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4) 2.5
(3/32) 1.5 - 4.0
(1/16 - 3/16) OK
( J )
Stem stitch Reinforced stitching, sewing and 
decorative applications1.0
(1/16) 1.0 - 3.0
(1/16 - 1/8) 2.5
(3/32) 1.0 - 4.0
(1/16 - 3/16) OK
( J )
Decorative stitch Decorative stitching, top 
stitching0.0
(0) 0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4) 2.5
(3/32) 1.0 - 4.0
(1/16 - 3/16) OK
( J )
Basting stitch Basting
0.0
(0) 0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4) 20.0
(3/4) 5.0 - 30.0
(3/16 - 1-3/16) NO
a
Left needle position
b Middle needle position  a
Reverse stitch 
b Reinforcement stitch
Memo
If the selected stitch has a double mark  “” at the top of the key display, you can sew reverse stitches 
holding the “ Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch ” button. 
If the selected stitch has a dot mark  “” at the top of the key display, you can sew reinforcement stitches 
holding the “ Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch ” button (see page 46).
JJ
ab 
						

							SEWING THE STITCHES
64
a
aa aSelect a stitch. 
b
bb
bAttach presser foot “ J”. 
* Attach presser foot “N” when you select  .
c
cc
cHold the thread tails and fabric with your 
left hand, and turn the handwheel with 
your right hand to insert the needle into the 
fabric. 
a Sewing start position
d
dd dLower the presser foot, and hold the 
“ Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch ” button to 
sew 3-4 stitches. 
→ The machine sews reverse stitches (or reinforcement 
stitches).
e
ee ePress the  “Start/Stop”  button to sew 
forward. 
a Reverse stitches 
→ The machine will begin sewing slowly.
f
ff
fWhen sewing is completed, hold the 
“ Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch ” button to 
sew 3-4 reverse stitches (or reinforcement 
stitches) at the end of the seam.
g
gg gAfter sewing, press the  “Thread Cutter ” 
button to trim the threads. 
a
a
 CAUTION
Be sure the needle does not strike a basting pin, or 
any other objects, during sewing. The thread 
could tangle or the needle could break, causing 
injury. 
Memo
When the automatic thread cutting and auto-
matic reinforcement stitch keys on the screen 
are selected, reverse stitches (or reinforce-
ment stitches) will be sewn automatically at 
the beginning of sewing when the  “Start/Stop ” 
button is pressed. Press the “ Reverse/Rein-
forcement Stitch”  button to sew reverse 
stitches (or reinforcement stitches) and trim 
the thread automatically at the end of sewing. 
						

							SEWING THE STITCHES
Utility Stitches
65
3

Changing the Needle Position (Left 
or Middle Needle Position Stitches 
Only) 
When you select left or middle needle position 
stitches, you can use   and   in the stitch 
width display to change the position of the needle. 
Match the distance from the right edge of the presser 
foot to the needle with the stitch width, then align 
the edge of the presser foot with the edge of the 
fabric during sewing for an attractive finish.
a Stitch width 
Example: Left/Middle needle position stitches

Needle Plate and Needle Plate Cover 
Marks
For a standard 16 mm (approx. 5/8 inch) seam 
allowance, set the width to 0.0 mm on the screen. 
While sewing, align the edge of the fabric with the 
16 mm (approx. 5/8 inch) mark on the needle plate.
a 16 mm (approx. 5/8 inch)
b For stitches with a middle (center) needle position
c For stitches with a left needle position
d Left needle position on the needle plate 
e Left needle position on the needle plate 
f Middle (center) needle position on the bobbin 
cover 
g Left needle position on the needle plate cover 


Using the Straight Stitch Needle 
Plate and the Straight Stitch Foot
The straight stitch needle plate and the straight stitch 
foot can only be used for straight stitches (middle 
needle position stitches). Use the straight stitch 
needle plate and the straight stitch foot when sewing 
thin fabrics or when sewing small pieces which tend 
to sink into the hole of the regular needle plate 
during sewing. The straight stitch foot is perfect to 
reduce puckering on lightweight fabrics. The small 
opening on the foot provides support for the fabric 
as the needle travels through the fabric.12.0 mm
 (approx. 
1/2 inch) 8.5 mm
(approx. 
11/32 inch) 6.5 mm
 (approx. 
1/4 inch) 5.0 mm
(approx. 3/
16 inch)
a
JJJJ
 CAUTION
Always use the straight stitch foot in combination 
with the straight stitch needle plate.
c
b a
a
c d
e
f
g 
						

							SEWING THE STITCHES
66
a
aa aPress the “Presser Foot Lifter” button to 
raise the presser foot and turn the main 
power to OFF.
b
bb bRemove the flat bed attachment or the 
embroidery unit if either are attached.
c
cc cGrasp both sides of the needle plate cover, 
and then slide it toward you.
a Needle plate cover
d
dd dGrasp the bobbin case, and then pull it out.
a Bobbin case
e
ee
eUse the screwdriver included with the 
machine to unscrew and remove the regular 
needle plate.
f
ff fSet the straight stitch needle plate in place 
and use the screwdriver to tighten the plate.
g
gg gInsert the bobbin case in its original 
position, and then attach the needle plate 
cover.
h
hh hAfter reinstalling the needle plate cover, 
select any of the straight stitches.
i
ii iAttach the straight stitch foot.
a Notch
b Pin
j
jj
jStart sewing.
* After sewing, make sure to remove the straight stitch 
needle plate and the straight stitch foot, and reinstall 
the regular needle plate, the needle plate cover and 
the presser foot “J”.
Note
Align the two screw holes on the needle plate 
with the two holes on the machine and screws 
in the needle plate. 
a
a
Memo
• When using the straight stitch needle plate, all straight stitches become middle needle 
position stitches. You cannot change the 
needle position using the width display.
 Always secure the needle plate before  inserting the bobbin case into its original 
position.
 CAUTION
 Selecting other stitches will cause an error 
message to be displayed.
 Be sure to turn the handwheel slowly in your  direction before sewing and make sure that the 
needle is not contacting the straight stitch foot 
and straight stitch needle plate.
Memo
To prevent puckering on fine fabrics, use a 
fine needle, size 75/11, and a short stitch 
length. For heavier fabrics, use a heavier nee-
dle, size 90/14, and longer stitches.
a
b 
						

							SEWING THE STITCHES
Utility Stitches
67
3

Basting
a
aa aSelect   and attach presser foot  “J” .
b
bb
bPress the  “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch ” 
button to sew reinforcement stitches, then 
continue sewing.
c
cc cSew while keeping the fabric straight. 
d
dd
dEnd the basting with reinforcement stitches.
Dart Seam
a
aa
aSelect   and attach presser foot “ J”.
b
bb
bSew a reverse stitch at the beginning of the 
dart and then sew from the wide end to the 
other end without stretching the fabric.
* If automatic reinforcement stitching is preset, a 
reinforcement stitch will automatically be sewn at 
the beginning of sewing.
a Basting
c
cc cCut the thread at the end leaving 50 mm 
(approx. 1-15/16 inches), and then tie both 
ends together.
* Do not sew a reverse stitch at the end. 
d
dd dInsert the ends of the thread into the dart 
with a needle.
Memo
If you do not want to use a reinforcement 
stitch at the beginning; you should lift the 
presser foot, rotate the handwheel, pull up the 
bobbin thread and pull a length of top and 
bobbin thread out from the rear of the 
machine.
You can set the stitch length between 5 mm 
(approx. 3/16 inch) and 30 mm (approx. 
1-3/16 inches) 
a
Between 5 mm (approx. 3/16 inch) and 30 mm 
(approx. 1-3/16 inches) 
a
a 
						

							SEWING THE STITCHES
68
e
ee eIron the dart to one side so that it is flat.
Gathering
Use on waists of skirts, sleeves of shirts, etc.
a
aa
aSelect a straight stitch and attach presser 
foot  “J” .
b
bb bSet the stitch length to 4.0 mm (approx. 
3/16 inch) and the thread tension to 
approximately 2.0 (weaker tension).
* If you press   after pressing  , the 
stitch length will be set automatically to 4.0 mm 
(approx. 3/16 inch) and the thread tension will be 
automatically set to 2.0.
c
cc cPull the bobbin and upper threads out by 
50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches) (see page 
28).
a Upper thread
b Bobbin thread
c About 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches)
d
dd dSew two rows of straight stitches parallel to 
the seam line, then trim excess thread 
leaving 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches).
a Seam line
b 10 to 15 mm (approx. 3/8 inch to 9/16 inch)
c About 50 mm (approx. 1-15/16 inches)
e
ee ePull the bobbin threads to obtain the 
desired amount of gather, then tie the 
threads.
f
ff fSmooth the gathers by ironing them.
g
gg
gSew on the seam line and remove the 
basting stitch.
a
b
c
a
cb