Brother Innovis 4500 D Manual

							SEWING THE STITCHES
Utility Stitches
69
3
Flat Fell Seam
Use for reinforcing seams and finishing edges 
neatly.
a
aa aSelect   and attach presser foot  “J” .
b
bb
bSew the finish line, then cut half of the seam 
allowance from the side on which the flat 
fell seam will lie.
* When the automatic thread cutting and automatic 
reinforcement stitching are preset, reinforcement 
stitches will be sewn automatically at the beginning 
of sewing. Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” 
button to sew a reinforcement stitch and trim the 
thread automatically at the end of sewing.
a About 12 mm (approx. 1/2 inch)
b Wrong side
c
cc cSpread the fabric out along the finish line.
a Finish line
b Wrong side
d
dd
dLay both seam allowances on the side of the 
shorter seam (cut seam) and iron them.
a Wrong side
e
ee eFold the longer seam allowance around the 
shorter one, and sew the edge of the fold.
a Wrong side
a Surface
Pintuck
a
aa aMark along the folds on the wrong side of 
the fabric.
a Wrong side
b
bb bTurn the fabric and iron the folded parts 
only.
a Surface
a
b
a
b
a
a
a
aa
Finished flat fell seam
a
a 
						

							SEWING THE STITCHES
70
c
cc cSelect   and attach presser foot  “I” .
d
dd
dSew a straight stitch along the fold.
* When the automatic thread cutting and automatic 
reinforcement stitching are preset, reinforcement 
stitches will be sewn automatically at the beginning 
of sewing. Press the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” 
button to sew a reinforcement stitch and trim the 
thread automatically at the end of sewing.
a Width for pintuck
b Wrong side
c Surface
e
ee eIron the folds in the same direction.
a
Icb 
						

							SEWING THE STITCHES
Utility Stitches
71
3
Zigzag Stitches 
Zigzag stitches are useful for overcasting, appliqué, patchwork, and many other applications. 
Select a stitch, and attach presser foot “J”. 
If the stitch which you select has a double mark “ ” at the top of the key display, you can sew reverse 
stitches by holding the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button.
If the stitch which you select has a dot mark “ ” at the top of the key display, you can sew reinforcement 
stitches by holding the “Reverse/Reinforcement Stitch” button (see page 46).
a
aa aSelect a stitch. 
b
bb
bAttach presser foot  “J” . 

 Overcasting (Using a Zigzag Stitch) 
Sew the overcasting along the edge of the fabric 
while positioning the right-hand side needle drop 
point just outside the edge of the fabric.
a Needle drop position 

Appliqué  (Using a Zigzag Stitch) 
Attach the appliqué material using a temporary 
spray adhesive or basting, and then sew it.
* Sew a zigzag stitch while positioning the right-hand 
side needle drop point just outside the edge of the 
fabric.
StitchStitch namePresser 
footApplications
Stitch width 
[mm (inch.)]Stitch length  [mm (inch.)]Tw i n  
needle
Auto.ManualAuto.Manual
Zigzag stitch For overcasting, mending. 
Reverse stitch is sewn while 
pressing “Reverse/
Reinforcement Stitch ” button. 3.5
(1/8) 0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4) 1.4
(1/16) 0.0 - 4.0
(0 - 3/16) OK
( J )
Zigzag stitch For overcasting, mending. 
Reinforcement stitch is sewn 
while pressing “Reverse/
Reinforcement Stitch ” button. 3.5
(1/8) 0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4) 1.4
(1/16) 0.0 - 4.0
(0 - 3/16) OK
( J )
Zigzag stitch (right) Start from right needle position, 
zigzag sew at left.3.5
(1/8) 2.5 - 5.0
(3/32 - 3/16) 1.4
(1/16) 0.3 - 4.0
(1/64 - 3/16) OK
( J )
Zigzag stitch (left) Start from left needle position, 
zigzag sew at right.3.5
(1/8) 2.5 - 5.0
(3/32 - 3/16) 1.4
(1/16) 0.3 - 4.0
(1/64 - 3/16) OK
( J )
a 
						

							SEWING THE STITCHES
72

Patchwork (for Crazy Quilt) 
Turn back the desired width of fabric and position it 
over the lower fabric, then sew so that the stitch 
bridges both pieces of fabric.

Sewing Curves (Using a Zigzag 
Stitch) 
Shorten the stitch length setting to obtain a fine 
stitch. Sew slowly, keeping the seams parallel with 
the fabric edge as you guide the fabric around the 
curve.

Cord Guide Bobbin Cover (Using a 
Zigzag Stitch)
a
aa aRemove the bobbin cover from the machine 
(see page 27).
b
bb bThread the gimp thread through the hole in 
the cord guide bobbin cover from top to 
bottom. Position the thread in the notch at 
the back of the cord guide bobbin cover.
a Notch
b Gimp thread
c
cc cSnap the cord guide bobbin cover into 
place, making sure that the gimp thread can 
be fed freely. 
* Make sure there are no restrictions when feeding the 
thread.
d
dd dSet the zigzag width from 2.0-2.5 mm 
(approx. 1/16 - 3/32 inch).
e
ee eAttach presser foot “ N”.
f
ff
fPosition the fabric right side up on top of 
the cord and place the cord to the rear of 
the machine under the presser foot.
a Fabric (right side)
b Gimp thread
g
gg gLower the presser foot and start sewing to 
make a decorative finish.
a
b
N
b
a 
						

							SEWING THE STITCHES
Utility Stitches
73
3
Elastic Zigzag Stitches 
Use elastic zigzag stitches for tape attaching, overcasting, darning, or a wide variety of other uses.
a
aa aSelect a stitch. 
b
bb
bAttach presser foot  “J” . 

 Tape Attaching 
Stretch the tape flat. While stretching the tape flat, 
sew the tape to the fabric.
a Tape 

Overcasting 
Use this stitch to sew overcasting on the edge of 
stretch fabrics. Sew the overcasting along the edge 
of the fabric while positioning the right-hand side 
needle drop point just outside the edge of the fabric.
StitchStitch namePresser 
footApplications
Stitch width 
[mm (inch.)]Stitch length  [mm (inch.)]Tw i n  
needle
Auto.ManualAuto.Manual
2 step elastic zigzag Overcasting (medium weight 
and stretch fabrics), tape and 
elastic5.0
(3/16) 1.5 - 7.0
(1/16 - 1/4) 1.0
(1/16) 0.2 - 4.0
(1/64 - 1/16) OK
( J )
2 step elastic zigzag Overcasting (medium weight 
and stretch fabrics), tape and 
elastic5.0
(3/16) 1.5 - 7.0
(1/16 - 1/4) 1.0
(1/16) 0.2 - 4.0
(1/64 - 1/16) OK
( J )
3 step elastic zigzag Overcasting (medium, 
heavyweight and stretch fabrics), 
tape and elastic5.0
(3/16) 1.5 - 7.0
(1/16 - 1/4) 1.0
(1/16) 0.2 - 4.0
(1/64 - 1/16) OK
( J )
a 
						

							SEWING THE STITCHES
74
Overcasting 
Use for the beginning and end of seams in skirts or trousers, and the beginning and end of all cuttings. 
Use presser foot “G”, presser foot “J”, or the side cutter attachment depending on the kind of overcasting 
stitch you select. 

Overcasting Using Presser Foot  “G ” 
a
aa aSelect a stitch and attach presser foot  “G ”.
b
bb
bLower the presser foot so that the presser 
foot guide is set flush against the edge of the 
fabric.
c
cc cSew along the presser foot guide.
a Guide
StitchStitch namePresser 
footApplications
Stitch width 
[mm (inch.)]Stitch length  [mm (inch.)]Tw i n  
needle
Auto.ManualAuto.Manual
Overcasting stitch Reinforcing of light and medium 
weight fabrics3.5
(1/8) 2.5 - 5.0
(3/32 - 3/16) 2.0
(1/16) 1.0 - 4.0
(1/16 - 3/16) NO
Overcasting stitch Reinforcing of heavyweight 
fabric5.0
(3/16) 2.5 - 5.0
(3/32 - 3/16) 2.5
(3/32) 1.0 - 4.0
(1/16 - 3/16) NO
Overcasting stitch Reinforcing of medium, 
heavyweight and easily frayable 
fabrics or decorative stitching.5.0
(3/16) 3.5 - 5.0
(1/8 - 3/16) 2.5
(3/32) 1.0 - 4.0
(1/16 - 3/16) NO
 CAUTION

After the stitch width is adjusted, turn the 
handwheel toward you by hand and check that 
the needle does not touch the presser foot. If 
the needle hits the presser foot, the needle 
may break and cause injury.
a The needle should not touch 
If the presser foot is raised to its highest level, 
the needle may strike the presser foot.
a
G
a 
						

							SEWING THE STITCHES
Utility Stitches
75
3

Overcasting Using Presser Foot  “J”  
a
aa aSelect a stitch and attach presser foot “ J”.
b
bb
bSew with the needle dropping slightly off 
the edge of the fabric.
a Needle drop position 
StitchStitch namePresser 
footApplications
Stitch width 
[mm (inch.)]Stitch length  [mm (inch.)]Tw i n  
needle
Auto.ManualAuto.Manual
Overcasting stitch Reinforced seaming of stretch 
fabric5.0
(3/16) 0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 9/32) 2.5
(3/32) 0.5 - 4.0
(1/32 - 3/16) OK
( J )
Overcasting stitch Reinforcing of medium stretch 
fabric and heavyweight fabric, 
decorative stitching5.0
(3/16) 0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 9/32) 2.5
(3/32) 0.5 - 4.0
(1/32 - 3/16) OK
( J )
Overcasting stitch Reinforcement of stretch fabric 
or decorative stitching4.0
(3/16) 0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4) 4.0
(3/16) 1.0 - 4.0
(1/16 - 3/16) OK
( J )
Overcasting stitch Stretch knit seam
5.0
(3/16) 0.0 - 7.0
(0 - 1/4) 4.0
(3/16) 1.0 - 4.0
(1/16 - 3/16) NO
Single diamond 
overcast Reinforcement and seaming 
stretch fabric
6.0
(15/
64) 1.0 - 7.0
(1/16 - 1/4) 3.0
(1/8) 1.0 - 4.0
(1/16 - 3/16) OK
( J )
Single diamond 
overcast Reinforcement of stretch fabric
6.0
(15/
64) 1.0 - 7.0
(1/16 - 1/4) 1.8
(1/16) 1.0 - 4.0
(1/16 - 3/16) OK
( J )
a 
						

							SEWING THE STITCHES
76

Overcasting Using the Side Cutter
By using the side cutter, you can do overcasting while cutting the fabric.
a
aa aSelect a stitch.
b
bb
bFollow the steps on page 37 to remove the 
presser foot.
c
cc cPosition the fork on the side cutter ’s 
operating lever onto the needle clamp 
screw.
a Needle clamp screw
b Operating lever 
 CAUTION
Make sure to only select one of the stitches listed below. Using another stitch may cause the needle to hit 
the presser foot and break, possibly causing injury.
Memo
Thread the needle manually when using the side cutter, or only attach the side cutter after threading the 
needle using the  “Automatic Threading ” button.
StitchStitch namePresser 
footApplications
Stitch width 
[mm (inch.)]Stitch length  [mm (inch.)]Tw i n  
needle
Auto.ManualAuto.Manual
With side cutter Straight stitch while cutting 
fabrics0.0
(0) 0.0 - 2.5
(0 - 3/32) 2.5
(3/32) 0.2 - 5.0
(1/64 - 3/16) NO
With side cutter Zigzag stitch while cutting fabrics
3.5
(1/8) 3.5 - 5.0
(1/8 - 3/16) 1.4
(1/16) 0.0 - 4.0
(0 - 3/16) NO
With side cutter Overcasting stitch while cutting 
fabrics3.5
(1/8) 3.5 - 5.0
(1/8 - 3/16) 2.0
(1/16) 1.0 - 4.0
(1/16 - 3/16) NO
With side cutter Overcasting stitch while cutting 
fabrics5.0
(3/16) 3.5 - 5.0
(1/8 - 3/16) 2.5
(3/32) 1.0 - 4.0
(1/16 - 3/16) NO
With side cutter Overcasting stitch while cutting 
fabrics5.0
(3/16) 3.5 - 5.0
(1/8 - 3/16) 2.5
(3/32) 1.0 - 4.0
(1/16 - 3/16) NO
Memo
Make sure that the fork of the operating lever 
is set onto the needle screw firmly.
a
b 
						

							SEWING THE STITCHES
Utility Stitches
77
3
d
dd dPosition the side cutter so that the side 
cutter pin is aligned with the notch in the 
presser foot holder, and then lower the 
presser foot.
a Notch in presser foot holder
b Pin
→ The side cutter is attached.
e
ee eMake a cut of approximately 20 mm 
(approx. 3/4 inch) in the fabric.
a 20 mm (approx. 3/4 inch) 
f
ff fPosition the fabric so that the right side of 
the cut is on top of the guide plate and the 
left side of the cut is underneath the presser 
foot.
a Guide plate (lower knife)
b Presser foot 
g
gg gThread the needle manually and pull out a 
long section of the upper thread. Pass it 
below the presser foot and pull it out in the 
fabric feed direction.
a Presser foot 
b Upper thread
 
h
hh hStart sewing.
→ A seam allowance is cut while the stitching is sewn.
Memo
If the fabric is not positioned correctly, the 
fabric will not be cut.
ab
a
a
b
Note
If the width has been adjusted, turn the hand-
wheel by hand to check that the needle does 
not touch the side cutter. If the needle touches 
the side cutter, it might cause the needle to 
break. 
b
a 
						

							SEWING THE STITCHES
78

When Sewing Straight Stitches 
While Using the Side Cutter
The seam margin should be approximately 5 mm 
(approx. 3/16 inch).
a Seam margin 
Memo
The fabric will not be cut if the whole fabric is 
simply spread out underneath the presser 
foot guide plate. Set the fabric as explained 
in step 
f from the previous section, and 
then start sewing. 
 One layer of 13 oz. denim can be cut.
 Clean the side cutter after use to avoid hav-
ing dust and scraps of thread build up on it. 
 Add a small amount of oil as required to the 
cutting edge of the cutter.
a