Haynes Yamaha Xv V Twins Manual

							
2B-36

Chapter 2 Part B Engine, clutch and transmission (XV700-1100 models)

20.9 With all fasteners removed, lift the

right crankcase half off the left

crankcase half 
20.10a Locate the orange O-ring

20.10b ... and the black O-ring

20.10c Crankcase halves - shaft drive models

1 Crankcase halves

2 Dowels

3 Stud

4 Stud

5 Stud

6 Stud

7 O-ring

8 O-ring

9 Dowel

10 Bolt

11 Bolt

12 Bolt

13 Bolt

14 Bolt

15 Bolt

16 Sealing washer

17 Oil filler plug

18 O-ring

19 Clamp

20 Protector plate

21 Plug

22 Grommet

9 Carefully lift the right crankcase half away from the left crankcase

half (see illustration). As you lift, pry gently and evenly at the pry

points around the crankcase seam. Tap alternately on the transmission

shafts. If the halves wont separate easily, make sure all fasteners have

been removed. Dont pry against the crankcase mating surfaces or

theyll leak.

10 Look for the O-rings and dowels (see illustrations). If theyre not

in one of the crankcase halves, locate them. 
11 Refer to Sections 21 through 25 for information on the internal

components of the crankcase.

Reassembly

12 Make sure the crankshaft and transmission shafts are correctly

positioned in the left crankcase half (see Sections 23 and 26). Make

sure the shift cam is correctly aligned with the neutral switch (see

Section 26). 
						

							
Chapter 2 Part B Engine, clutch and transmission (XV700-1100 models)

2B-37

20.1 Od Crankcase halves - chain drive models

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

18

19

20

21

22 
Crankcase halves

Dowels

Stud

Stud

Stud

O-ring

Dowel

Bolt

Bolt

Bolt

Bolts

Bolt

Bolts

Sealing washer

Oil filler plug

O-ring

Protective plate

Plug

Grommet

Sprocket guard

Bolts

Clamp

13 Remove all traces of sealant from the crankcase mating surfaces.

Be careful not to let any fall into the case as this is done. Check to

make sure the dowels are in place in the right crankcase half (see

illustration 20.10c and 20.10d). Also make sure the orange and black

O-rings are in place in their grooves (see illustrations 20.10a and

20.10b).

14 Pour some engine oil over the transmission gears, the crankshaft

main bearings and the shift cam. Also pour oil into the exposed internal

oil passages. Dont get any oil on the crankcase mating surfaces.

15 Apply a thin, even bead of Yamaha Bond or Quick Gasket sealant

(part no. ACC-11001-05-01) or equivalent to the crankcase mating

surfaces. Caution: Dont apply an excessive amount of sealant.

16 Carefully assemble the crankcase halves over the dowels.

Caution: The crankcase halves should fit together completely without

being forced. If theyre slightly apart, DO NOT force them together by

tightening the crankcase bolts.

17 Install the crankcase bolts in their holes (see illustration 20.8).

18 Tighten the bolts in numerical order, starting with the lowest-

numbered bolt and working to the highest. Tighten all bolts to the

torque listed in this Chapters Specifications. Note: There are different

:orque settings for the 10mm bolts and the 6mm bolts.

19 Turn the mainshaft and the transmission driveshaft to make sure

they turn freely. Also make sure the crankshaft turns freely. Rotate the 
shift cam by hand to make sure the transmission shifts into the

different gear positions.

20 The remainder of assembly is the reverse of disassembly.

21 Be sure to refill the engine oil (see Chapter 1).

21 Crankcase components - inspection and servicing

Refer to illustrations 21.4a, 21.4b, 21.4c, 21.5a, 21.5b, 21.6a and

21.6b

1 After the crankcases have been separated and the crankshaft,

shift cam and forks and transmission components removed, the

crankcases should be cleaned thoroughly with new solvent and dried

with compressed air.

2 Remove any oil passage plugs that havent already been

removed. All oil passages should be blown out with compressed air.

3 All traces of old gasket sealant should be removed from the

mating surfaces. Minor damage to the surfaces can be cleaned up with

a fine sharpening stone or grindstone. Caution: Be very careful not to

nick or gouge the crankcase mating surfaces or leaks will result. Check

both crankcase halves very carefully for cracks and other damage. If

any damage is found that cant be repaired, replace the crankcase

halves as a set. 
						

							
2B-38 
Chapter 2 Part B Engine, clutch and transmission (XV700-1100 models)

21.4a Right crankcase half components

7 Crankshaft bearing

2 Transmission bearings

3 Middle gear bearings

4 O-ring

5 Oil pressure relief valve

6 Oil level switch

21.4b Use a slide hammer to remove the bearings if they dont lift

out easily ... 
21.4c ... the slide hammers puller attachment fits behind the

bearing like this

4 Spin the bearings in the crankcase halves (see illustration) with

fingers and check for looseness, roughness or excessive noise.

Replace the bearings if these conditions are found. Remove the

bearings with fingers, or if necessary, with a slide hammer (see

illustrations).

5 Remove the oil seal from behind the transmission mainshaft

bearing in the left side of the crankcase (see illustration). Make sure

the oil passages behind the seal is clear and the bearing bore is clean

(see illustration), then tap in a new oil seal.

6 Set the new bearings in their bores, then tap them into position

with a bearing driver or a socket that bears against the bearing outer

race (see illustrations). Note: Special equipment is required for

access to the middle gear bearings. 
22 Oil pressure relief valve - removal, inspection and

installation

Refer to illustrations 22.3, 22.4 and 22.6

1 Disassemble the crankcase (see Section 20).

2 Work the oil pressure relief valve out of the crankcase (its held in

by an O-ring) (see illustration 21.4a).

3 Push the plunger into the relief valve and check for free

movement (see illustration). If the valve sticks, perform Steps 4 and 5

to disassemble and inspect it.

4 Straighten the cotter pin and pull it out (see illustration). Remove

the spring retainer, spring and plunger.

5 Check all parts for wear and damage. Clean the parts thoroughly,

reassemble the valve and recheck its movement. If the valve still sticks, 
						

							
Chapter 2 Part B Engine, clutch and transmission (XV700-1100 models)

2B-39

21.5a Pry the oil seal out of the

bearing bore ... 
21.5b ... make sure the oil passage is

clear and tap in a new seal 
21.6a Push the bearing sU
						

							
2B-40 
Chapter 2 Part B Engine, clutch and transmission (XV700-1100 models)

23.3b Crankshaft details

1 Crankshaft

2 Right main bearing

3 Woodruff key

4 Left main bearing

5 Oil pump drive sprocket

6 Washer

7 Nut

8 Piston 
9 Piston pin

10 Circlip

11 Piston rings

12 Connecting rod

13 Connecting rod bearings

14 Connecting rod studs

15 Connecting rod nuts 
23.5 Make sure the oil passage plugs are tight

Inspection

Refer to illustrations 23.5 and 23.7

4 If you havent already done so, mark and remove the connecting

rods from the crankshaft (see Section 25).

5 Clean the crankshaft with solvent, using a rifle-cleaning brush to

scrub out the oil passages. Make sure the oil passage plugs are tight

(see illustration). Check the crankshaft for cracks and other damage. 
It should be magnafluxed to reveal hidden cracks - a dealer service

department or motorcycle machine shop will handle the procedure.

6 If available, blow the crank dry with compressed air. Check the

main and connecting rod journals for uneven wear, scoring and pits.

Rub a copper coin across the journal several times - if a journal picks

up copper from the coin, its too rough. Replace the crankshaft.

7 Set the crankshaft on V-blocks and check the runout with a dial

indicator touching the alternator and primary drive gear mounting

surfaces (see illustration). Compare your findings with this Chapters

Specifications. If the runout exceeds the limit, replace the crankshaft.

Main bearing inspection and replacement

Refer to illustration 23.8

8 The crankshaft rides in ball bearings which are pressed into steel

sleeves in the aluminum case halves (see illustration).

9 Spin the bearings with fingers and check for looseness,

roughness or excessive noise. If the condition of the bearings is

doubtful or definitely bad, have them pressed out and new ones

pressed in by a Yamaha dealer or other qualified repair shop.

Installation

Refer to illustrations 23.11, 23.12, 23.13 and 23.14

10 Install the connecting rods on the crankshaft at this point if they

were removed (see Section 25).

11 To pull the crankshaft into the ball bearing in the left crankcase

half, youll need a puller that can be attached to the threaded end of

23.7 Check crankshaft runout with a pair of dial indicators

23.8 The crankshaft bearings are mounted in steel sleeves 
						

							
Chapter 2 Part B Engine, clutch and transmission (XV700-1100 models)

2B-41

23.11 Set up a puller like this one to pull the crankshaft into the

left main bearing

the crankshaft with a sleeve nut. This can be fabricated (see

illustration), but the puller must apply force to the inner race of the ball

bearing. A puller thats braced against the outer race of the ball bearing

will transfer the installation force to the balls and retainers, damaging

the bearing. The same thing will happen if the crankshaft is driven into

the bearing with a hammer.

12 Carefully lower the crankshaft into the bearing until it stops (see

illustration). Make sure the crankshaft isnt cocked sideways in the

bearing.

13 Thread a sleeve nut onto the end of the crankshaft (see

illustration). Install a thick-walled metal tube over the end of the

crankshaft to act as a spacer. The tube must be large enough to fit

over the crankshaft, but small enough that it rests on the inner race of

the ball bearing.

14 Attach a puller to the sleeve nut with its plate resting on the metal

tube (see illustration).

15 Tighten the puller bolt to pull the crankshaft into its bearing.

16 Remove the puller and align the connecting rods with the

cylinders.

17 Assemble the case halves (see Section 20) and check to make

sure the crankshaft and the transmission shafts turn freely. 
24 Connecting rod bearings - general note

1 Even though connecting rod bearings are generally replaced with

new ones during the engine overhaul, the old bearings should be

retained for close examination as they may reveal valuable information

about the condition of the engine.

2 Bearing failure occurs mainly because of lack of lubrication, the

presence of dirt or other foreign particles, overloading the engine

and/or corrosion. Regardless of the cause of bearing failure, it must be

corrected before the engine is reassembled to prevent it from

happening again.

3 When examining the bearings, remove the rod bearings from the

connecting rods and caps and lay them out on a clean surface in the

same general position as their location on the crankshaft journals. This

will enable you to match any noted bearing problems with the

corresponding side of the crankshaft journal.

4 Dirt and other foreign particles get into the engine in a variety of

ways. It may be left in the engine during assembly or it may pass

through filters or breathers. It may get into the oil and from there into

the bearings. Metal chips from machining operations and normal

engine wear are often present. Abrasives are sometimes left in engine

components after reconditioning operations such as cylinder honing,

especially when parts are not thoroughly cleaned using the proper

cleaning methods. Whatever the source, these foreign objects often

end up imbedded in the soft bearing material and are easily

recognized. Large particles will not imbed in the bearing and will score

or gouge the bearing and journal. The best prevention for this cause of

bearing failure is to clean all parts thoroughly and keep everything

spotlessly clean during engine reassembly. Frequent and regular oil

and filter changes are also recommended.

5 Lack of lubrication or lubrication breakdown has a number of

interrelated causes. Excessive heat (which thins the oil), overloading

(which squeezes the oil from the bearing face) and oil leakage or throw

off (from excessive bearing clearances, worn oil pump or high engine

speeds) all contribute to lubrication breakdown. Blocked oil passages

will also starve a bearing and destroy it. When lack of lubrication is the

cause of bearing failure, the bearing material is wiped or extruded from

the steel backing of the bearing. Temperatures may increase to the

point where the steel backing and the journal turn blue from

overheating.

6 Riding habits can have a definite effect on bearing life. Full throttle

low speed operation, or lugging (laboring) the engine, puts very high

loads on bearings, which tend to squeeze out the oil film. These loads

cause the bearings to flex, which produces fine cracks in the bearing

face (fatigue failure). Eventually the bearing material will loosen in

pieces and tear away from the steel backing. Short trip driving leads to

corrosion of bearings, as insufficient engine heat is produced to drive

23.12 Push the crankshaft into the

bearing as far as it will go (dont let it tilt

sideways and jam) 
23.13 Thread a sleeve nut onto the end of

the crankshaft 
23.14 Place a thick metal tube over the

crankshaft, then position the puller plate

on top of it and thread the puller bolt into

the sleeve nut 
						

							
2B-42 
Chapter 2 Part B Engine, clutch and transmission (XV700-1100 models)

25.3 Remove the nuts and separate the

cap from the connecting rod 
25.10 Make sure the tab aligns with the

notch; when installing the bearing upper

half, make sure the oil holes in the bearing

and connecting rod are aligned 
25.12 Tighten the cap nuts to the

specified torque in one continuous motion

off the condensed water and corrosive gases produced. These

products collect in the engine oil, forming acid and sludge. As the oil is

carried to the engine bearings, the acid attacks and corrodes the

bearing material.

7 Incorrect bearing installation during engine assembly will lead to

bearing failure as well. Tight fitting bearings which leave insufficient

bearing oil clearances result in oil starvation. Dirt or foreign particles

trapped behind a bearing insert result in high spots on the bearing

which lead to failure.

8 To avoid bearing problems, clean all parts thoroughly before

reassembly, double check all bearing clearance measurements and

lubricate the new bearings with engine assembly lube or moly-based

grease during installation.

25 Connecting rods and bearings - removal, inspection,

bearing selection and installation

Removal

Refer to illustration 25.3

1 Before removing the connecting rods from the crankshaft, insert a

feeler gauge between the crankshaft and the big end of each

connecting rod and between the two connecting rods and measure the

side clearance (see illustration 26.1 in Part A of this Chapter). If the

clearance on any rod is greater than that listed in this Chapters

Specifications, that rod will have to be replaced with a new one.

2 Using a center punch or felt pen, mark the position of each rod

and cap, relative to its position on the crankshaft (left or right) (see

illustration 26.2 in Part A of this Chapter). Note: The rear cylinder

connecting rod may have one or two oil holes in the upper side of the 
big end (the front cylinder connecting rod on all models has one oil

hole). Look at the rear cylinder connecting rod before removing the

rods and determine whether it has one or two oil holes.

3 Unscrew the bearing cap nuts, separate the cap from the rod,

then detach the rod from the crankshaft (see illustration 23.3b and

the accompanying illustration). If the cap is stuck, tap on the ends of

the rod bolts with a soft-faced hammer to free them.

4 Roll the bearing inserts sideways to separate them from the rods

and caps. Keep them in order so they can be reinstalled in their original

locations. Wash the parts in solvent and dry them with compressed air,

if available.

Inspection

5 Check the connecting rods for cracks and other obvious damage.

Lubricate the piston pin for each rod, install it in the proper rod and

check for play (see illustration 26.5 in Part A of this Chapter). If it

wobbles, replace the connecting rod and/or the pin.

6 Examine the connecting rod bearing inserts. If they are scored,

badly scuffed or appear to have been seized, new bearings must be

installed. Always replace the bearings in the connecting rods as a set.

If they are badly damaged, check the corresponding crankshaft

journal. Evidence of extreme heat, such as discoloration, indicates that

lubrication failure has occurred. Be sure to thoroughly check the oil

pump and pressure relief valves as well as all oil holes and passages

before reassembling the engine.

7 Have the rods checked for twist and bending at a dealer service

department or other motorcycle repair shop.

Connecting rod bearing selection

Refer to illustrations 25.10, 25.12, 25.13 and 25.18a through 25.18d

8 If the bearings and journals appear to be in good condition, check

the oil clearances as follows:

9 Start with the rod for one cylinder. Wipe the bearing inserts and

the connecting rod and cap clean, using a lint-free cloth.

10 Install the bearing inserts in the connecting rod and cap (see

illustration). Make sure the tab on the bearing engages with the notch

in the rod or cap.

11 Wipe off the connecting rod journal with a lint-free cloth. Lay a

strip of Plastigage (type HPG-1) across the top of the journal, parallel

with the journal axis (see illustration 26.11 in Part A of this Chapter).

12 Position the connecting rod on the journal, then install the rod cap

and nuts. Tighten the nuts to the torque listed in this Chapters Specifi-

cations (see illustration), but dont allow the connecting rod to rotate

at all.

13 Unscrew the nuts and remove the connecting rod and cap from

the journal, being very careful not to disturb the Plastigage. Compare

the width of the crushed Plastigage to the scale printed in the

Plastigage envelope to determine the bearing oil clearance (see

illustration).
25.13 Place the Plastigage scale next to the flattened Plastigage

to measure the bearing clearance 
						

							
Chapter 2 Part B Engine, clutch and transmission (XV700-1100 models)

2B-43

25.18a The number on each connecting rod is used for bearing

selection; the letter is used to align the rod and cap 
25.18b The letter on the crankshaft is used together with the

connecting rod number to select bearings

14 If the clearance is within the range listed in this Chapters Specifi-

cations and the bearings are in perfect condition, they can be reused. If

the clearance is greater than the wear limit, replace the bearing inserts

with new inserts that have the same color code, then check the

clearance once again. Always replace all of the inserts at the same

time.

15 The clearance should now be within the range listed in this

Chapters Specifications.

16 If the clearance is greater than the maximum clearance listed in

this Chapters Specifications, measure the diameter of the connecting

rod journal with a micrometer. Yamaha doesnt provide diameter or

wear limit specifications, but by measuring the diameter at a number of

points around the journals circumference, youll be able to determine

whether or not the journal is out-of-round. Take the measurement at

each end of the journal to determine if the journal is tapered.

17 If any journal is tapered or out-of-round or bearing clearance is

beyond the maximum listed in this Chapters Specifications (with new

bearings), replace the crankshaft.

18 Each connecting rod has a number stamped on it in ink (see

illustration). Subtract this number from the connecting rod journal

number on the crankshaft to get a bearing number (see illustration).

For example, the number on the right connecting rod shown in the

accompanying illustration is 5. The corresponding number for that

connecting rods journal, stamped into the crankshaft, is 2. Subtracting

2 from 5 produces 3, which is the bearing number for that journal.

According to the accompanying chart, bearing no. 2 is color-coded

black (see illustration). The color codes are painted on the edges of

the bearings (see illustration).

19 Repeat the bearing selection procedure for the remaining

connecting rods. 
Installation

20 Wipe off the bearing inserts, connecting rods and caps. Install the

inserts into the rods and caps, using your hands only, making sure the

tabs on the inserts engage with the notches in the rods and caps (see

illustration 25.10). When all the inserts are installed, lubricate them

with engine assembly lube or moly-based grease. Dont get any

lubricant on the mating surfaces of the rod or cap.

21 Assemble each connecting rod to its proper journal, referring to

the previously applied cylinder numbers. Make sure the Y mark on

each rod is toward the tapered end of the crankshaft. The letter

present at the rod/cap seam on one side Of the connecting rod should

fit together perfectly when the rod and cap are assembled (see

illustration 25.18a). If it doesnt, the wrong cap is on the rod. Fix this

problem before assembling the engine any further.

22 When youre sure the rods are positioned correctly, lubricate the

threads of the rod bolts and the surfaces of the nuts with molybdenum

disulfide grease and tighten the nuts to the torque listed in this

Chapters Specifications (see illustration 25.12). Note: Snug both

nuts evenly, then tighten them to the specified torque in a continuous

motion. If you must stop tightening between 32 and 36 Nm (22 and 25

ft-lbs), loosen the nuts to a torque less than 32 Nm (22 ft-lbs), then

retighten them to the specified torque in one continuous motion.

23 Turn the rods on the crankshaft. If either of them feels tight, tap

on the bottom of the connecting rod caps with a hammer - this should

relieve stress and free them up. If it doesnt, recheck the bearing

clearance.

24 As a final step, recheck the connecting rod side clearances (see ,

Step 1). If the clearances arent correct, find out why before

proceeding with engine assembly.

BEARING COLOR CODE

No. 1

No. 2

No. 3

No. 4

No. 5 
Blue

Black

Brown

Green

Yellow

25.18c Calculate the bearing number by subtracting the

crankshaft number from the connecting rod number, then use the

bearing number to select a color code

25.18d The color codes, painted on the sides of the bearings,

identify bearing thickness 
						

							
2B-44 
Chapter 2 Part B Engine, clutch and transmission (XV700-1100 models)

26.2 Lift the middle driven gear pinion off the middle gear

driveshaft (shaft drive models)

26.3 Lift the shock absorber assembly out of the crankcase

(chain drive models)

1

2

3

4

5

6

7 
Shock absorber shaft

Bearing

Oil seal

Engine sprocket

Splined lockwasher

Tab washer

Bolts 
8

9

10

11

12

13

14 
Collar

Spring

Spring end plate

Middle driven gear pinion

Thrust washer

Spring retaining collars

Bearing

26.4 Shift cam and forks (XV700-1100 models) - exploded view

1 Shift cam assembly

2 Shift cam bearing

3 Cam plate

4 Shift pin

5 Shift pins

6 Screw

7 Neutral pin 
8 Washer

9 Left shift fork

10 Center shift fork

11 Right shift fork

12 Shift fork guide bar

13 Stopper plate

14 Screws 
26 Transmission shafts, shift cam and forks - removal,

disassembly, inspection, reassembly and installation

Removal

Refer to illustrations 26.2, 26.3, 26.4, 26.6 and 26.7

1 Remove the engine and separate the crankcase halves (see

Sections 5 and 20).

2 If youre working on a shaft drive model, lift the middle driven gear

pinion off the middle drive gear shaft (see illustration).

3 If youre working on a chain drive model, remove the drive

sprockets shock absorber assembly from the crankcase (see

illustration).

4 Pull the shift fork guide bar out of the forks and crankcase (see

26.6 Lift the transmission shafts out of the crankcase together 
						

							
Chapter 2 Part B Engine, clutch and transmission (XV700-1100 models)

2B-45

26.7 Lift the shift cam out of

the crankcase 
26.9a Remove the snap-ring and

thrust washer ... 
26.9b ... slide the fifth pinion gear off

the mainshaft ...

26.9c ... and slide second-third pinion

gear off the shaft 
26.9d Remove the snap-ring ... 
26.9e ... and the thrust washer ...

26.9f ... and slide off fourth pinion gear 
26.9g First pinion gear is integral with the mainshaft

illustration).

5 Remove the two uppermost shift forks from the gear grooves.

6 Lift the transmission shafts out of the crankcase together (see

illustration).

7 Lift the shift cam out of the crankcase (see illustration).

8 Reassemble the shift forks on the guide bar so you dont forget

how they go (see illustration 26.4). 
Transmission disassembly

Mainshaft

Refer to illustrations 26.9a through 26.9h

9 To disassemble the mainshaft, refer to the accompanying

illustrations (see illustrations). Slide each gear onto a rod. such a

wooden dowel or plastic pipe, as soon as its removed from the shaft.