Haynes Yamaha Xv V Twins Manual
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1-4 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance Tire pressures (cold) (continued) XV920RH and RJ Front Up to 90 kg (198 lbs) load 1.79 Bars (26 psi) 90 to 213 kg (198 to 470 lbs) load 1.93 Bars (28 psi) High speed riding 1.93 Bars (28 psi) Rear Up to 90 kg (198 lbs) 1.93 Bars (28 psi) 90 to 213 kg (198 to 470 lbs) 2.20 bars (32 psi) High speed riding 2.20 Bars (32 psi) TR1 (XV1000 chain drive) models Front Up to 90 kg (198 lbs) load . 1.79 Bars (26 psi) 90 to 201 kg (198 to 443 lbs) load 1.93 Bars (28 psi) High speed riding . 1.93 Bars (28 psi) Rear Up to 90 kg (198 lbs) . 1.93 Bars (28 psi) 90 to 201 kg (198 to 443 lbs) 2.20 bars (32 psi) High speed riding 2.20 Bars (32 psi) Torque specifications Oil drain plug 43 Nm (31 ft-lbs) Oil filter cover bolts 10 Nm (7.2 ft-lbs) Spark plugs 14 Nm (10 ft-lbs) Steering head bearing ring nuts Initial torque 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) Final torque Back off 1/4 turn Steering stem bolt XV920J, K, MK 54 Nm (39 ft-lbs) All others 50 Nm (36 ft-lbs) Valve adjuster locknuts 27 Nm (19 ft-lbs) Rocker cover bolts 10 Nm (7.2 ft-lbs) Final drive filler and drain plugs 23 Nm (17 ft-lbs) Recommended lubricants and fluids Engine/transmission oil Type API grade SE or SF Viscosity Consistently below 15 degrees C (60 degrees F) SAE 10W30 Consistently above 5 degrees C (40 degrees F) SAE 20W40 Capacity With filter change 3.1 liters (3.3 US qt, 5.46 Imperial pt) Oil change only 3.0 liters (3.2 US qt, 5.28 Imperial pt) Brake fluid DOT 4 Final gear Type SAE 80 API GL-4 hypoid gear oil Capacity 0.20 liters (6.76 US fl oz, 7.04 Imp fl oz Wheel bearings Medium weight, lithium-based multi-purpose grease Swingarm pivot bearings Medium weight, lithium-based multi-purpose grease Cables and lever pivots Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil Sidestand/centerstand pivots Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil Brake pedal/shift lever pivots Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil Throttle grip Multi-purpose grease or dry film lubricant *ln the UK, tread depth must be at least 1 mm over 3/4 of the tread breadth all the way around the tire, with no bald patches. 1984 and later models Engine Spark plugs Type NGK BP7ES or ND W22EP-U Gap 0.7 to 0.8 mm (0.028 to 0.032 inch) Valve clearances (COLD engine) Intake 0.07 to 0.12 mm (0.003 to 0.005 inch) Exhaust . 0.12 to 0.17 mm (0.005 to 0.007 inch) Engine idle speed . 950 to 1050 rpm
Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-5 Cylinder compression pressure (at sea level) Standard 10.75 Bars (156 psi) Maximum 11.78 Bars (171 psi) Minimum . 8.8 Bars (128 psi) Maximum difference between cylinders 0.96 Bars (14 psi) Carburetor synchronization Vacuum at idle speed 180 +/-10 mm Hg (7.09 +/- 0.4 inch Hg) Maximum vacuum difference between cylinders 10 mm Hg (0.4 inch Hg) Engine idle speed 950 to 1050 rpm Cylinder numbering (from rear to front of bike) 1-2 Miscellaneous Brake pedal position 20 mm (0.8 inch) above bottom of footpeg Shift pedal position . Not specified Freeplay adjustments Throttle grip Not specified Clutch lever 2 to 3 mm (0.08 to 0.12 inch) Front brake lever 5 to 8 mm (0.20 to 0.30 inch) Rear brake pedal 20 to 30 mm (0.8 to 1.2 inch) Battery electrolyte specific gravity 1.280 at 20-degrees C (68-degrees F) Minimum tire tread depth* 1 mm (0.04 inch) Tire pressures (cold) Front Up to 90 kg (198 lbs) load 1.79 Bars (26 psi) 90 kg to maximum load 1.93 Bars (28 psi) High speed riding 2.20 Bars (32 psi) Rear Up to 90 kg (198 lbs) 1.93 Bars (28 psi) 90 to 160 kg (198 to 353 lbs) 2.48 bars (36 psi) 160 kg (353 lbs) to maximum load 2.76 Bars (40 psi) High speed riding 2.48 Bars (36 psi) Torque specifications Oil drain plug 43 Nm (31 ft-lbs) Oil filter cover bolts 10 Nm (7.2 ft-lbs) Spark plugs 20 Nm (14 ft-lbs) Steering head bearing ring nuts Initial torque 50 Nm (36 ft-lbs) Final torque 3 Nm (2.2 ft-lbs) Steering stem nut... 110 Nm (80 ft-lbs) Valve adjuster locknuts .. 27 Nm (19 ft-lbs) Rocker cover bolts 10 Nm (7.2 ft-lbs) Final drive filler and drain plugs....... 23 Nm (17 ft-lbs) Recommended lubricants and fluids Engine/transmission oil Type API grade SE or SF Viscosity Consistently below 15 degrees C (60 degrees F) SAE 10W30 Consistently above 5 degrees C (40 degrees F) SAE 20W40 Capacity With filter change 3.1 liters (3.3 US qt, 5.46 Imperial pt) Oil change only 3.0 liters (3.2 US qt, 5.28 Imperial pt) Brake fluid DOT 4 Final gear Type SAE 80 API GL-4 hypoid gear oil Capacity 0.20 liters (6.76 US fl oz, 7.04 Imp fl oz Wheel bearings Medium weight, lithium-based multi-purpose grease Swingarm pivot bearings Medium weight, lithium-based multi-purpose grease Cables and lever pivots Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil Sidestand/centerstand pivots Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil Brake pedal/shift lever pivots . Chain and cable lubricant or 10W30 motor oil Throttle grip Multi-purpose grease or dry film lubricant *In the UK, tread depth must be at least 1 mm over 3/4 of the tread breadth all the way around the tire, with no bald patches.
1-6 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1 Yamaha XV Routine maintenance intervals Routine maintenance intervals Note: The pre-ride inspection outlined in the owners manual covers checks and maintenance that should be carried out on a daily basis. Its condensed and included here to remind you of its importance. Always perform the pre-ride inspection at every maintenance interval (in addition to the procedures listed). The intervals listed below are the shortest intervals recommended by the manufacturer for each particular operation during the model years covered in this manual. Your owners manual may have different intervals for your model. Daily or before riding Check the engine oil level Check the fuel level and inspect for leaks Check the operation of both brakes - also check the front brake fluid level and look for leakage Check the tires for damage, the presence of foreign objects and correct air pressure Check the throttle for smooth operation and correct freeplay Check the operation of the clutch - make sure the freeplay is correct Make sure the steering operates smoothly, without looseness and without binding Check for proper operation of the headlight, taillight, brake light, turn signals, indicator lights and horn Make sure the sidestand (and centerstand, if equipped) returns to its fully up position and stays there under spring pressure Make sure the engine kill switch works properly After the initial 600 miles/1000 km Perform all of the daily checks plus: Check/adjust the carburetor synchronization Adjust the valve clearances Change the final gear oil (if equipped) Check/adjust the drive chain slack (if equipped) Change the engine oil and oil filter Check the tightness of all fasteners Check the steering Check/adjust clutch freeplay Check the front brake fluid level Inspect brake pads and shoes Check/adjust the brake pedal position Check the operation of the brake light Check the operation of the sidestand switch Lubricate the clutch cable, throttle cable(s) and speedometer cable Every 300 miles/500 km Check/adjust the drive chain slack (if equipped) Every 4000 miles/6000 km or 6 months Change the engine oil Clean the air filter element and replace it if necessary Adjust the valve clearances Clean and gap the spark plugs Lubricate the clutch cable, throttle cable(s) and speedometer cable Check/adjust throttle cable free play Check/adjust the idle speed Check/adjust the carburetor synchronization Check the front brake fluid level Adjust front brake free play Check the brake disc(s) and pads Check the rear brake shoes for wear Check/adjust the brake pedal position Check the operation of the brake light Lubricate the clutch and brake lever pivots Lubricate the shift/brake pedal pivots and the sidestand/centerstand pivots Check the steering Check the front forks for proper operation and fluid leaks Check the tires, wheels and wheel bearings Check the battery electrolyte level and specific gravity; inspect the breather tube Check the exhaust system for leaks and check the tightness of the fasteners Check the cleanliness of the fuel system and the condition of the fuel lines and vacuum hoses Inspect the crankcase ventilation system Check the operation of the sidestand switch Check and adjust clutch cable free play Every 12,000 km/8,000 miles or 12 months All of the items above plus: Change the engine oil and oil filter Replace the spark plugs Check final gear oil level (if equipped) Every 18,000 km/12,000 miles Repack the swingarm bearings Every 24,000 km/15,000 miles or two years Change the final gear oil (if equipped) Clean and lubricate the steering head bearings Every 50,000 km/30,000 miles Replace the drive chain (if equipped) Every two years Replace the brake master cylinder and caliper seals and change the brake fluid Every four years Replace the brake hose(s)
Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-7 2.3a Decals at various locations on the motorcycle include such information as tire pressures ... 2.3b ... special precautions for air- adjustable front forks ... 2.3c ... and drive chain service procedures 3.3a Check the oil level in the window (this is an XV535)... 2 Introduction to tune-up and routine maintenance Refer to illustrations 2.3a, 2.3b and 2.3c This Chapter covers in detail the checks and procedures necessary for the tune-up and routine maintenance of your motorcycle. Section 1 includes the routine maintenance schedule, which is designed to keep the machine in proper running condition and prevent possible problems. The remaining Sections contain detailed procedures for carrying out the items listed on the maintenance schedule, as well as additional maintenance information designed to increase reliability. Since routine maintenance plays such an important role in the safe and efficient operation of your motorcycle, it is presented here as a comprehensive check list. For the rider who does all his own maintenance, these lists outline the procedures and checks that should be done on a routine basis. Maintenance information is printed on labels attached to the motorcycle (see illustrations). If the information on the labels differs from that included here, use the information on the label. Deciding where to start or plug into the routine maintenance schedule depends on several factors. If you have a motorcycle whose warranty has recently expired, and if it has been maintained according to the warranty standards, you may want to pick up routine maintenance as it coincides with the next mileage or calendar interval. If you have owned the machine for some time but have never performed any maintenance on it, then you may want to start at the nearest interval and include some additional procedures to ensure that nothing important is overlooked. If you have just had a major engine overhaul, then you may want to start the maintenance routine from the beginning. If you have a used machine and have no knowledge of its 3.3b ... and this is an XV920 (other 700 through 1100 models similar) history or maintenance record, you may desire to combine all the checks into one large service initially and then settle into the maintenance schedule prescribed. The Sections which outline the inspection and maintenance procedures are written as step-by-step comprehensive guides to the performance of the work. They explain in detail each of the routine inspections and maintenance procedures on the check list. References to additional information in applicable Chapters is also included and should not be overlooked. Before beginning any maintenance or repair, the machine should be cleaned thoroughly, especially around the oil filter, spark plugs, cylinder head covers, side covers, carburetors, etc. Cleaning will help ensure that dirt does not contaminate the engine and will allow you to detect wear and damage that could otherwise easily go unnoticed. 3 Fluid levels - check Engine oil Refer to illustrations 3.3a, 3.3b, 3.4a and 3.4b 1 Run the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. Caution: Do not run the engine in an enclosed space such as a garage or shop. 2 Stop the engine and allow the machine to sit undisturbed for about five minutes. 3 Hold the motorcycle level. With the engine off, check the oil level in the window located at the lower part of the right crankcase cover. The oil level should be between the Maximum and Minimum level marks next to the window (see illustrations).
1-8 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 3.4a Remove the filler plug (arrow)... 3.4b ... and add oil to bring up the level in the window 3.7 Brake fluid should be above the Lower line in the window 3.9 To add fluid, remove the cover screws (arrows) and lift off the cover and diaphragm 4.4a Unclip the fuel hoses and move them aside ... 4.4b ... then remove the securing strap and lift off the battery cover 4 If the level is below the Minimum mark, remove the oil filler cap from the left side of the crankcase and add enough oil of the recommended grade and type to bring the level up to the Maximum mark (see illustrations). Do not overfill. Brake fluid Refer to illustrations 3.7 and 3.9 5 In order to ensure proper operation of the hydraulic disc brake, the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir must be properly maintained, 6 With the motorcycle held level, turn the handlebars until the top of the master cylinder is as level as possible. 7 Look closely at the inspection window in the master cylinder reservoir. Make sure that the fluid level is above the Lower mark on the reservoir (see illustration). 8 If the level is low, the fluid must be replenished. Before removing the master cylinder cover, cover the fuel tank to protect it from brake fluid spills (which will damage the paint) and remove all dust and dirt from the area around the cover. 9 To replace brake fluid, remove the screws (see illustration) and lift off the cover and rubber diaphragm. Note: Do not operate the front brake with the cover removed. 10 Add new, clean brake fluid of the recommended type until the level is above the inspection window. Do not mix different brands of brake fluid in the reservoir, as they may not be compatible. 11 Reinstall the rubber diaphragm and the cover. Tighten the screws evenly, but do not overtighten them. 12 Wipe any spilled fluid off the reservoir body and reposition and tighten the brake lever and master cylinder assembly if it was moved. 13 If the brake fluid level was low, inspect the brake system for leaks. 4 Battery electrolyte level/specific gravity - check Refer to illustrations 4.4a, 4.4b, 4.5a, 4.5b, 4.5c and 4.8 Caution: Be extremely careful when handling or working around the battery. The electrolyte is very caustic and an explosive gas (hydrogen) is given off when the battery is charging. Note: The first Steps describe battery removal. If the electrolyte level is known to be sufficient it wont be necessary to remove the battery. 1 This procedure applies to batteries that have removable filler caps, which can be removed to add water to the battery. If the original equipment battery has been replaced by a sealed maintenance-free battery, the electrolyte cant be topped up. 2 Remove the seat (see Chapter 7). 3 If necessary for access to remove the battery, remove the side covers (see Chapter 7). 4 If youre working on an XV535 equipped with an upper fuel tank, detach the fuel hoses from their clips and move them aside. Remove the securing strap and battery cover (see illustrations). 5 Remove the screws securing the battery cables tothe battery terminals (remove the negative cable first, positive cable last) (see
Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-9 4.5a Pull back the plastic caps (arrows) and undo the terminal screws (negative first, then positive) 4.5b Lift the battery out 4.5c The electrolyte level should be between the marks on the battery case 4.8 Check the specific gravity with a hydrometer 5.2 The caliper on chain drive models has a pad inspection window illustration). Remove the battery securing strap if you havent already done so and pull the battery straight up to remove it (see illustration). The electrolyte level will now be visible through the translucent battery case - it should be between the Upper and Lower level marks (see illustration). 6 If the electrolyte is low, remove the cell caps and fill each cell to the upper level mark with distilled water. Note: Some models have a long-life battery equipped with only one fiiler plug. Do not use tap water (except in an emergency), and do not overfill. The cell holes are quite small, so it may help to use a plastic squeeze bottle with a small spout to add the water. If the level is within the marks on the case, additional water is not necessary. 7 Next, check the specific gravity of the electrolyte in each cell with a small hydrometer made especially for motorcycle batteries. These are available from most dealer parts departments or motorcycle accessory stores. 8 Remove the caps, draw some electrolyte from the first cell into the hydrometer (see illustration) and note the specific gravity. Compare the reading to the Specifications listed in this Chapter. Note: Add 0.004 points to the reading for every 10-degrees F above 20- degrees C (68-degrees F) - subtract 0.004 points from the reading for every 10-degrees below 20-degrees C (68-degrees F). Return the electrolyte to the appropriate cell and repeat the check for the remaining cells. When the check is complete, rinse the hydrometer thoroughly with clean water. 9 If the specific gravity of the electrolyte in each cell is as specified, the battery is in good condition and is apparently being charged by the machines charging system. 10 If the spepific gravity is low, the battery is not fully charged. This may be due to corroded battery terminals, a dirty battery case, a malfunctioning charging system, or loose or corroded wiring connections. On the other hand, it may be that the battery is worn out, especially if the machine is old, or that infrequent use of the motorcycle prevents normal charging from taking place. 11 Be sure to correct any problems and charge the battery if necessary. Refer to Chapter 8 for additional battery maintenance and charging procedures. 12 On models without a battery cover, secure the battery with the strap (see illustration 4.5a). Install the battery cell caps, tightening them securely. Reconnect the cables to the battery, attaching the positive cable first and the negative cable last. Make sure to install the insulating boot over the terminals. 13 Install the battery cover (if equipped) and secure it with the strap. 14 Install all components removed for access. Be very careful not to pinch or otherwise restrict the battery vent tube, as the battery may build up enough internal pressure during normal charging system operation to explode. 5 Brake pads and shoes - wear check Refer to illustrations 5.2, 5.3 and 5.6 1 The front brake pads should be checked at the recommended intervals and replaced with new ones when worn beyond the limit listed in this Chapters Specifications. Always replace pads in complete sets; if the front brake has two calipers, replace all foir at the same time. 2 To check the front brake pads on chain drive models, flic the inspection window on the back of the caliper (see illustration) f the pads are worn nearly to the red line, replace them (see Chac:
1-10 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 5.3 If the raised corner of the pad backing metal (arrow) is close to the disc, the pad is worn and the full set of pads must be replaced (pad removed for clarity) 5.6 If the pointer is near the end of its travel with the brake pedal depressed, replace the shoes 6.6a Hold the switch so it wont rotate and rotate the nut (arrow) (this is an XV535)... 6.6b ... and this is an XV1100 (700 through 1000 models similar) 3 On models so equipped, remove the pad cover (see illustration 2.9a in Chapter 6, Part B). Reach up and operate the brake lever while you look at the back of the caliper. If the pad wear indicator is close to the disc (see illustration), the pads are worn excessively and must be replaced with new ones (see Chapter 6). 4 On XV535 models, remove the rubber plug from the back of the caliper. Look through the hole and inspect the pads. If the pads are worn near the wear limit listed in the Chapter 6 Specifications, replace them. 5 On models without an inspection window or a pad cover, squeeze the front brake lever and look at the edges of the pads. If the pads are worn to near the wear limit listed in the Chapter 6 Specifications, replace them (see Chapter 6). 6 To check the rear brake shoes, press the brake pedal firmly while you look at the wear indicator on the brake panel (see illustration). If the indicator pointer is close to the end of its travel, replace the shoes (see Chapter 6). 7 If the pads are in good condition, reinstall the covers (if equipped). The words Uncover for pad service stamped in the pad covers may be upside down when the cover is installed. This doesnt mean the cover is upside down. 6 Brake system - general check Refer to illustrations 6.6a and 6.6b 1 A routine general check of the brakes will ensure that any problems are discovered and remedied before the riders safety is jeopardized. 2 Check the brake lever and pedal for loose connections, excessive play, bends, and other damage. Replace any damaged parts with new ones (see Chapter 6). 3 Make sure all brake fasteners are tight. Check the brake pads and shoes for wear (see Section 5) and make sure the fluid level in the front brake reservoir is correct (see Section 3). Look for leaks at the hose connections and check for cracks in the hose(s). If the lever or pedal is spongy, bleed the brakes as described in Chapter 6. 4 Make sure the brake light operates when the brake lever is depressed. 5 Make sure the brake light is activated just before the rear brake takes effect. 6 If adjustment is necessary, hold the switch so it wont rotate and turn the adjusting nut on the switch body (see illustrations) until the brake light is activated when required. If the switch doesnt operate the brake lights, check it as described in Chapter 8. 7 The front brake light switch is not adjustable. If it fails to operate properly, replace it with a new one (see Chapter 8). 7 Brake lever and pedal position and play - check and adjustment Front brakes Refer to illustration 7.2 1 The front brake lever must have the amount of free play listed in this Chapters Specifications to prevent brake drag. 2 Operate the lever and check free play. If its not correct, loosen the adjuster locknut, turn the adjuster to bring free play within the Specifications and tighten the locknut (see illustration). Rear brakes Refer to illustrations 7.4a and 7.4b 3 The rear brake pedal should be positioned below the top of the footpeg the distance listed in this Chapters Specifications. 4 To adjust the position of the pedal, loosen the locknut on the adjuster, turn the adjuster to set the pedal position and tighten the locknut (see illustrations). 5 Check pedal freeplay and compare it to the value listed in this Chapters Specifications. Adjust if necessary by turning the nut at the rear end of the brake cable or rod. 6 If necessary, adjust the brake light switch (see Section 6).
Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-11 7.2 Loosen the locknut and turn the screw to change brake lever freeplay 7.4a Loosen the locknut and turn the bolt to change brake pedal freeplay (this is an XV920)... 7.4b ... and this is an XV1100 (other models similar) 8.4 Check tire pressures with an accurate gauge 9.3 Loosen the lockwheel (A) and turn the adjuster (B) to change freeplay (dual-cable model shown) 8 Tires/wheels - general check Refer to illustration 8.4 Routine tire and wheel checks should be made with the realization that your safety depends to a great extent on their condition. Check the tires carefully for cuts, tears, embedded nails or other sharp objects and excessive wear. Operation of the motorcycle with excessively worn tires is extremely hazardous, as traction and handling are directly affected. Measure the tread depth at the center of the tire and replace worn tires with new ones when the tread depth is less than specified. 3 Repair or replace punctured tires as soon as damage is noted. Do not try to patch a torn tire, as wheel balance and tire reliability may be impaired. 4 Check the tire pressures when the tires are cold and keep them properly inflated (see illustration). Proper air pressure will increase tire Irfe and provide maximum stability and ride comfort. Keep in mind that low tire pressures may cause the tire to slip on the rim or come off, while high tire pressures will cause abnormal tread wear and unsafe handling. 5 The cast wheels used on some models are virtually maintenance free, out they should be kept clean and checked periodically for cracks and other damage. Never attempt to repair damaged cast wheels; they must be replaced with new ones. 6 Check the valve stem locknuts to make sure they are tight. Also, make sure the valve stem cap is in place and tight. If it is missing, install a new one made of metal or hard plastic. 9 Throttle and choke operation/grip freeplay - check and adjustment Throttle check 1 Make sure the throttle grip rotates easily from fully closed to fully open with the front wheel turned at various angles. The grip should return automatically from fully open to fully closed when released. If the throttle sticks, check the throttle cable(s) for cracks or kinks in the housings. Also, make sure the inner cables are cfean and well- lubricated. 2 Check for a small amount of freeplay at the grip and compare the freeplay to the value listed in this Chapters Specifications. If adjustment is necessary, adjust idle speed first (see Section 19). Single cable models Refer to illustration 9.3 3 Loosen the lockwheel at the throttle grip (see illustration). Turn the adjuster to give a slight amount of freeplay, then tighten the lockwheel. Dual cable models Refer to illustration 9.9 4 These models use two throttle cables - an accelerator cable and a decelerator cable. Initial freeplay adjustments are made at the carburetor end of the cable. 5 Remove the seat, and if necessary, the side covers (see Chap- ter 7).
1-12 Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 9.9 Loosen the locknuts and adjust the accelerator and decelerator cables 1 Accelerator cable 2 Decelerator cable 3 Locknuts 4 Throttle pulley 10.3 Normal clutch cable adjustments are made at the handlebar - loosen the clutch cable lockwheel (left arrow) and turn the adjuster (right arrow); tighten the lockwheel after adjustment 10.5 The XV535 clutch cable can be adjusted at the bracket on the side of the engine 6 If youre working on an XV535 model, remove the upper fuel tank (see Chapter 3) or the top cover (see Chapter 7). 7 On all except XV535 models, remove the fuel tank (see Chap- ter 3). 8 Make sure the locknuts at the handlebar throttle cable adjusters are tight (see illustration 9.3). 9 At the carburetors, loosen the cable locknuts (see illustration). 10 Turn the locknuts on the decelerator cable to set freeplay to zero, then tighten the locknuts. 11 Loosen the accelerator cable locknuts, then turn them to bring freeplay at the throttle grip within the range listed in this Chapters Specifications. Once freeplay is correct, tighten the locknuts. 12 To make fine adjustments, loosen the locknut on the handlebar cable adjuster (see illustration 9.3). Turn the adjuster until the desired freeplay is obtained, then retighten the lockwheel. 13 Make sure the throttle grip is in the fully closed position. 14 Make sure the throttle linkage lever contacts the idle adjusting screw when the throttle grip is in the closed throttle position. Warning: Turn the handlebars all the way through their travel with the engine idling. Idle speed should not change. If it does, the cables may be routed incorrectly. Correct this condition before riding the bike. 10 Clutch - check and adjustment Refer to illustration 10.3 1 Correct clutch freeplay is necessary to ensure proper clutch operation and reasonable clutch service life. Freeplay normally changes because of cable stretch and clutch wear, so it should be checked and adjusted periodically. 2 Clutch cable freeplay is checked at the lever on the handlebar. Slowly pull in on the lever until resistance is felt, then note how big the gap is between the lever and its pivot bracket. Compare this distance with the value listed in this Chapters Specifications. Too little freeplay might result in the clutch not engaging completely. If there is too much freeplay, the clutch might not release fully. 3 Normal freeplay adjustments are made at the dutch lever by loosening the lockwheel and turning the adjuster until the desired freeplay is obtained (see illustration). Always retighten the lockwheel once the adjustment is complete. 4 If freeplay cant be adjusted at the handlebar, check the initial adjustment at the engine. XV535 models Refer to illustration 10.5 5 Loosen the locknuts at the clutch cable bracket on the engine (see illustration). Turn the nuts to achieve, the correct freeplay, then tighten them. 6 If necessary, make fine adjustments at the handlebar adjuster (see Step 3). XV700 through 1100 models Refer to illustration 10.8 7 Remove the cover from the clutch adjuster on the left side of the engine. 8 Loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster screw clockwise until it seats lightly, then back it out 1/4 turn and tighten the locknut (see illustration). Caution: Dont operate the clutch while the locknut is loose.
Chapter 1 Tune-up and routine maintenance 1-13 10.8 The XV700 through 1100 can be adjusted with a screw on the side of the engine 11.3 Look through the viewing hole to measure chain slack 11.8 Remove the cotter pin and loosen the axle nut; the vertical lines in the frame below the nut are used for chain adjustment 11.9 Loosen and hold the locknut and turn the adjusting bolt to adjust chain slack All models 9 Recheck freeplay at the clutch lever and make further adjustments (if necessary) with the adjuster at the lever. If freeplay still cant be adjusted within the Specifications, the cable may be stretched or the clutch may be worn. Refer to Chapter 2 for inspection and repair procedures. 11 Drive chain and sprockets (chain drive models) - check, adjustment and lubrication 1 The drive chain on models so equipped is completely enclosed in a housing and operates in grease, so periodic lubrication isnt necessary. If the chain appears dry during inspection, refer to Chapter 5 and remove it for inspection. Check Refer to illustration 11.3 2 To check the chain, place the bike on its centerstand and shift the transmission into Neutral. Make sure the ignition switch is off. 3 Pry the cover from the large hole at the lower front of the rear sprocket housing (see illustration). 4 Push up on the bottom run of the chain and measure the slack. Do this every inch or so along the chain until you find the tightest point. 5 Pry the chain up and down and measure its movement, then compare your measurements to the value listed in this Chapters Specifications. If the bike is equipped with a scale next to the viewing hole (see illustration 11.3), the center pins of the chain should stay between the marks. As wear occurs, the chain will actually stretch, which means adjustment usually involves removing some slack from the chain. 6 The chain should be replaced at the specified mileage interval (see Chapter 5). Adjustment Refer to illustrations 11.8 and 11.9 7 If you havent already done so, rotate the rear wheel until the chain is positioned with the least amount of slack present. 8 Remove the cotter pin from the axle nut and loosen the nut (see illustration). 9 Loosen and back-off the locknuts on the adjuster bolts (see illustration). 10 Turn the axle adjusting nut on both sides of the swingarm until the proper chain tension is obtained (get the adjuster on the chain side close, then set the adjuster on the opposite side). Be sure to turn the adjusting nuts evenly to keep the rear wheel in alignment. If the adjusting nuts reach the end of their travel, the chain is excessively worn and should be replaced with a new one (see Chapter 5). 11 When the chain has the correct amount of slack, make sure the marks on the adjusters correspond to the same relative marks on each side of the swingarm. Tighten the axle nut to the torque listed in the Chapter 6 Specifications, then install a new cotter pin and bend it properly. If necessary, turn the nut an additional amount to line up the cotter pin hole with the castellations in the nut - dont loosen the nut to do this. 12 Tighten the chain adjuster locknuts securely. 12 Final drive oil (shaft drive models) - check and change 1 Final drive oil level should be checked and changed at intervals specified in Section 1. Check Refer to illustrations 12.3, 12.4a and 12.4b 2 Support the bike securely in a level position. Warning: The final drive unit may be hot enough to cause burns. Wait until the final drive unit is cool to the touch before checking the level.