Haynes Yamaha Xv V Twins Manual

							
5B-12 
Chapter 5 Part B Steering, suspension and final drive (XV700-1100 models)

7.7d Front forks (XV920J) - exploded view

1 Outer fork tube

2 Damper rod bolt and copper washer

3 Drain plug and gasket

4 Upper bushing

5 Spacer

6 Oil seal

7 Retainer

8 Dust seal

9 Damper rod seat

10 Lower bushing

11 Inner fork tube

12 Rebound spring

13 Damper rod

14 Teflon ring

15 Fork spring

16 O-ring

17 Cap bolt

18 Retainer

19 Rubber spacer

20 Steering stem/lower triple clamp

21 Bolt

22 Lockwasher

23 Left air hose union

24 O-ring

25 Air charging valve

26 Valve cap

27 O-ring

28 Hose fitting

29 O-ring

30 Air charging hose

31 Right hose union

Installation

8 Slide each fork leg into the lower triple clamp.

9 Slide the fork legs up, installing the tops of the tubes into the

upper triple clamp. Position the top of the fork tube so that it is level

with the top surface of the upper triple clamp.

10 The remainder of installation is the reverse of the removal

procedure. Tighten all fasteners to the torques listed in this Chapters

Specifications and the Chapter 6 Specifications.

11 Pump the front brake lever several times to bring the pads into

contact with the disc.

8 Forks - disassembly, inspection and reassembly

Disassembly

Refer to illustrations 8.2, 8.5a, 8.5b, 8.6a, 8.6b, 8.7 and 8.8

Note: The following procedures apply to 1981 through 1983 XV750

models, XV920 K, MK, RH and RJ models and the 1982 through 1985 
XV1000 (TR1). The forks used on XV920J models, as well as on all 1984

and later models except the TRI, require a press, special tools ana

procedures for disassembly, including heating the outer fork tube with

a torch. Fork overhaul on these models should be done by a Yamaha

dealer service department or other qualified repair shop.

1 Remove the forks following the procedure in Section 6. Work on

one fork leg at a time to avoid mixing up the parts.

2 On all except XV920K and MK models, remove the fork cap,

stopper ring, spring seat and spring (see illustrations 6.5a, 6.5b and

the accompanying illustration).

3 If youre working on an XV920K or MK, unscrew the top bolt with

an Allen bolt bit. Note: If you dont have an Allen bolt bit of the correct

size, use a bolt with a head size that Jits into the top bolt. Turn the bolt

with locking pliers.

4 Invert the fork assembly over a container and allow the oil to drain

out.

5 Prevent the damper rod from turning using a holding handle

(Yamaha tool no. YM-01326, part no. 90890-01326) and adapter

(Yamaha tool no. YM-01300-01, part no. 90890-01294) (see illustration) 
						

							
Chapter 5 Part B Steering, suspension and final drive (XV700-1100 models)

5B-13

7.7e Front forks (1984 and later models) -

exploded view

1 Plastic cap

2 Cap bolt

3 O-ring

4 Spacer

5 Spring seat

6 Fork spring

7 Damper rod

8 Inner fork tube

9 Taper spindle

10 Dust seal cover

11 Dust seal

12 Retainer

13 Oil seal 

14 Washer

15 Guide bushing

16 Outer fork tube

17 Damper rod bolt

18 Rubber spacer (except XV700)

19 Air joint bracket (except XV700)

20 Stopper ring (except XV700)

8.2 Remove the fork spring 
passed down through the fork inner tube to engage the damper rod

head. Unscrew the Allen bolt at the bottom of the outer tube and remove

the copper washer (see illustration). Note: If you dont have access to

these tools, a piece of hardwood dowel can be used instead. Cut a taper

on the end of the dowel to fit into the damper rod head. Another

alternative is to loosen the damper rod bolt before removing the fork cap;

the pressure of the fork spring will keep the damper rod from turning.

6 Pull the inner fork tube out of the fork leg and separate the

damper rod seat from the damper rod (see illustrations).

8.5a The damper rod can be prevented

from turning with a tool like this; its hex

fits into the top end of the damper rod 
8.5b Remove the damper rod bolt

and its copper washer 
8.6a Pull the upper fork tube out

of the lower tube 
						

							
5B-14 
Chapter 5 Part B Steering, suspension and final drive (XV700-1100 models)

8.6b Take the damper rod seat

off the damper rod 
8.7 Remove the damper rod and rebound

spring from the inner fork tube 
8.8 Pry the oil seal out of the

lower fork tube

8.9a Inspect the inner and outer fork

tubes; they must be replaced if

worn or damaged 
8.9b Check the damper rod, its seat and

the rebound spring for wear or damage 
9.1a The remote adjuster handle

should turn freely

7 Pull out the damper rod and the rebound spring (see illustration).

Dont remove the Teflon ring from the damper rod unless a new one

will be installed.

8 Carefully pry the oil seal from the fork leg (see illustration).

Inspection

Refer to illustrations 8.9a and 8.9b

9 Clean all parts in solvent and blow them dry with compressed air,

if available. Check the inner and outer fork tubes, the damper rod and

its seat for score marks, scratches, flaking of the chrome and

excessive or abnormal wear (see illustrations). This type of fork

doesnt use bushings; the inner fork tube rubs directly against the inner

surface of the fork leg. If the inner tube fits loosely in the outer tube, the

outer tube is probably worn; if so, replace it. Look for dents in the

tubes and replace them if any are found. Check the fork seal seat for

nicks, gouges and scratches. If damage is evident, leaks will occur

around the seal-to-outer tube junction. Replace worn or defective

parts with new ones.

10 Have the inner fork tube checked for runout at a dealer service

department or other repair shop. Warning: If it is bent, it should not be

straightened; replace it with a new one.

11 Measure the overall length of the long spring and check it for

cracks and other damage. Compare the length to the minimum length

listed in this Chapters Specifications. If its defective or sagged,

replace both fork springs with new ones. Never replace only one spring.

Reassembly

12 Install the rebound spring on the damper rod. Install the damper

rod in the inner fork tube, then let it slide slowly down until it protrudes 
from the bottom of the inner fork tube.

13 Install the damper rod seat over the end of the damper rod that

protrudes from the fork tube (see illustration 8.6b).

14 Install the inner fork tube in the outer fork tube.

15 Apply non-permanent thread locking agent to the damper rod

bolt, then install the bolt with its copper washer and tighten it to the

torque listed in this Chapters Specifications. Hold the damper rod

from turning with the tool used in Step 5. Note: If you didnt use the

tool, tighten the damper rod bolt after the fork spring and cap bolt are

installed.

16 Lubricate the lips and the outer diameter of the oil seal with the

recommended fork oil (see Chapter 1) and slide it down the inner tube,

with the closed side of the seal facing up. Drive the seal into place with

the same tools used to drive in the slide bushing (see illustration 5.18

in Part A of this Chapter). If you dont have access to these, it is

recommended that you take the assembly to a Yamaha dealer service

department or other motorcycle repair shop to have the seal driven in.

If you are very careful, the seal can be driven in with a hammer and a

drift punch. Work around the circumference of the seal, tapping gently

on the outer edge of the seal until its seated. Be careful - if you distort

the seal, youll have to disassemble the fork again and end up taking it

to a dealer anyway!

17 Install the dust seal, making sure it seats completely. The same

tool used to drive in the oil seal can be used for the dust seal.

18 Install the drain screw and a new gasket, if it was removed.

19 Add the recommended type and amount of fork oil (see Section 3).

20 Install the fork spring, with the closer-wound coils at the top.

21 Refer to Section 6 and install the spring seat, stopper ring and

fork cap or cap bolt. 
						

							
Chapter 5 Part B Steering, suspension and final drive (XV700-1100 models) 5B-15

9.1b Rear suspension unit (1981 through

1983 models) - exploded view

1 Shock absorber

2 Upper bushing

3 Lower bushing

4 Sleeves

5 Upper spring seat

6 Spring

7 Lower spring seat

8 Seating ring

9 Retaining ring

10 Attachment pin

11 Pivot bolt

12 O-ring

13 Air hose

14 Control cables

15 O-rings

16 Remove adjuster unit upper half

17 Seal

18 O-ring

19 Allen bolt

20 Remote adjuster unit lower half

21 Remote adjuster handle

22 Screw

23 Screw

24 Nut

25 O-ring

26 Air charging valve

27 Cap

28 Cotter pin

9.3a Remove the rubber cover.. . 
9.3b ... and remove the cotter pin 
9.4 Tap the attachment pin out

22 Install the fork by following the procedure outlined in Section 7. If

you wont be installing the fork right away, store it in an upright position.

9 Rear suspension unit (1981 through 1983 and all TR1

models) - inspection, removal and installation

Removal

Refer to illustrations 9.1a, 9.1b,.9.3a,9.3b, 9.4, 9.6 and 9.7

1 Lift or remove the seat. Check for loose mountings and for visible

wear or damage. Look for oil leaks. Turn the remote adjuster handle

and make sure it rotates freely (see illustrations). If the suspension 
unit is to be removed, press down on the air valve core with a small

screwdriver or similar tool and release the air pressure.

2 Remove the fuel tank (see Chapter 3) and the rear wheel (see

Chapter 6).

3 On the right side of the bike, remove the rubber cover to expose

the end of the attachment pin that secures the suspension unit to the

swingarm (see illustration). Remove the cotter pin from the

attachment pin (see illustration).

4 Tap the attachment pin out with a soft metal drift and hammer

(see illustration). Note: If the attachment pin wont comeout easily,

soak it with penetrating oil and allow time for the oil to work. If

necessary, support the other side of the swingarm with a wood block

while tapping the attachment pin out. 
						

							
5B-16 
Chapter 5 Part B Steering, suspension and final drive (XV700-1100 models)

9.6 Remove the pivot bolt 
9.7 Guide the suspension unit out

of the frame 
9.10 The adjuster ring should turn freely

9.12a Check the bushings and the metal sleeves for

wear and damage 
9.12b Fabricated bushing removal tool

1 High-strength nut

2 Thick washer

3 Metal tube (large enough for the bushing to fit inside)

4 Bushing sleeve

5 Thick washer

6 High-strength bolt

7 Bushing
5 Remove the two Allen bolts that secure the remote adjuster to the

frame. Dont disconnect the cables or the air hose from the adjuster;

free them from any clips and place them alongside the suspension unit

so they wont be in the way during removal.

6 At the top of the suspension unit, remove the pivot bolt that

attaches it to the frame (see illustration).

7 Lift the suspension unit and remove it rearward (see illustration).

Inspection

Refer to illustrations 9.10, 9.12a, 9.12b, 9.13 and 9.15

8 If the remote adjuster wont turn freely, remove its center screw

and the three small screws and take it apart for cleaning. Note: If the

screws wont turn easily, dont try to force them or the heads may be

stripped out. Apply plenty of penetrating oil and give it time to work.

Once the assembly is apart, inspect its O-ring (its a good idea to

replace it as a matter of course). Pack the housing with multi-purpose

lithium based grease, then assemble the adjuster.

9 Check the cables for damage such as kinked or dented housings

and replace them if theyre damaged. If the cables move stiffly,

lubricate them (see Chapter 1). If this doesnt help, replace them.

10 Check the suspension unit for obvious wear or damage that may

have been missed while it was on the bike. If its leaking air or oil,

replace it. The adjuster ring should turn freely (see illustration); if its

stiff, apply penetrating oil and work it back and forth until it loosens up.

Warning: The suspension unit contains compressed nitrogen gas and

requires special disposal procedures for safety. Refer to Part A of this

Chapter for the safe disposal method. 
11 Check for air leaks by applying soapy water to the air hose

connections, then adding a small amount of air through the charging

valve with a hand pump. If bubbles appear, theres a leak. The most

likely cause is a failed O-ring. If the hose or charging valve leak,

replace them.

12 Inspect the mounting bushings at the end of the suspension unit

(see illustration). If theyre deteriorated or if the rubber has separated

from the metal, replace them. A puller tool can be fabricated from a

bolt, nut, washers and a piece of tubing (see illustration). It may be

more practical to have the bushings pressed out and new ones

pressed in by a dealer service department. Caution: Dont try to

hammer the bushings out. This will place side loads on the suspension

unit and damage it.

13 To remove the spring from the suspension unit, compress it with

a coil spring compressor designed for suspension springs. These can

be rented from tool rental centers. Warning: The spring is powerful.

Dont try to compress it with makeshift tools or it may slip and cause

injury. With the spring compressed, remove the retaining clip, seating

ring and lower spring seat (see illustration).

14 Measure the free length of the spring and compare it to the value

listed in this Chapters Specifications, If its sagged, replace it. Check

the seating ring, spring seat and retaining ring for wear or damage and 
						

							
Chapter 5 Part B Steering, suspension and final drive (XV700-1100 models)

5B-17

9.13 The spring can be detached from the suspension unit 
9.15 Secure the spring seat with the retaining clip, making sure

the clip seats securely in its groove

9.17 Make sure the cables and hose are clear of the suspension

unit and secure them in their clips 
10.2a The right shock absorber is secured by bolts at the top and

bottom (arrows); the left shock absorber is secured by a

bolt at the top and a nut at the bottom

replace them as necessary. Make sure the retaining ring groove in the

suspension unit is free of buns.

15 Install the spring on the suspension unit so its closely wound coils

will be downward when the unit is installed on the bike. Compress the

spring with the special tool, then install the seating ring and spring

seat. Install the retaining ring and make sure its securely seated in its

groove (see illustration). Release the spring tension and remove the

compressor.

Installation

Refer to illustration 9.17

16 Guide the suspension unit into position. Coat the shaft of the

pivot bolt with a thin layer of multi-purpose grease (but keep the

grease off the bolt threads), then install the bolt and tighten it to the

torque listed in this Chapters Specifications.

17 Place the remote adjuster near its installed position. Route the

cables and air hose so theyre clear of the suspension unit and install

them in the clips (see illustration). Make sure the cable sheath is in

position.

18 Coat the attachment pin with anti-seize compound, and install it in

the frame and suspension unit. Install a new cotter pin and bend the

ends.

19 The remainder of installation is the reverse of the removal steps. 
10 Rear shock absorbers (1984 and later models) -

removal, inspection and installation

Removal

Refer to illustrations 10.2a and 10.2b

1 Support the bike securely so it cant be knocked over during this

procedure. Place a jack beneath the frame to lift the rear tire off the

ground and support the swingarm so it cant drop.

2 Unbolt the top end of the shock from the frame (see

illustrations).

3 Remove the bolt that secures the lower end of the right shock or

the nut that secures the lower end of the left shock. Rotate the top end

of the shock toward the rear of the bike and take it off.

Inspection

4 Check the shock for obvious physical damage and the coil spring

for looseness or signs of fatigue; replace both shock absorbers as a

pair if these conditions are found. Except for mounting bushings,

replacement parts are not available.

5 Check the shock for signs of oil or gas leaks and replace it if you

find any. 
						

							
5B-18 
Chapter 5 Part B Steering, suspension and final drive (XV700-1100 models)

10.2b Rear suspension (1984 and

later models) - exploded view

1 Shock absorbers

2 Swingarm

3 Bearing

4 Grease seal .

5 Collar

6 Lockwasher

7 Left pivot shaft

8 Pivot cover

9 Right pivot shaft

10 Nut

11 Rubber boot

6 Inspect the pivot hardware at the top and bottom of the shook

and replace any worn or damaged parts.

Installation

7 Coat the pivot points with a thin layer of multi-purpose lithium-

based grease. Install the shock with the tightly wound spring coils

downward. Tighten the top bolts, then the bottom right bolt, then the

bottom left nut to the torques listed in this Chapters Specifications.

11 Swingarm bearings - check

1 Refer to Chapter 6 and remove the rear wheel, then refer to

Section 9 to detach the lower end of the suspension unit or Section 10

to remove the rear shock absorbers.

2 Grasp the rear of the swingarm with one hand and place your

other hand at the junction of the swingarm and the frame. Try to move

the rear of the swingarm from side-to-side. Any wear (play) in the

bearings should be felt as movement between the swingarm and the

frame at the front. The swingarm will actually be felt to move forward

and backward at the front (not from side-to-side). If any play is noted,

the bearings should be replaced with new ones (see Section 12).

3 Next, move the swingarm up and down through its full travel. It 
should move freely, without any binding or rough spots. If it does not

move freely, refer to Sections 14 and 15 for servicing procedures.

12 Driveshaft and final drive (shaft drive models) -

removal, inspection and installation

Removal

Refer to illustration 12.7a and 12.7b

1 Support the bike securely so it cant be knocked over during this

procedure.

2 Remove the exhaust system (see Chapter 3).

3 Remove the rear wheel (see Chapter 6).

4 If youre working on a 1981 through 1983 model, remove ttJ

attachment pin to separate the lower end of the suspension unit frc~

the swingarm (see Section 9).

5 If youre working on a 1984 or later model, remove the left rear

shock absorber (see Section 10).

6 Remove the nuts and lockwashers that secure the final drive urn

to the swingarm. If youre working on a 1981 through 1983 mode*,

remove the single bolt and nut as well.

7 Pull the final gear assembly away from the swingarm, together

with the driveshaft (see illustrations). 
						

							
Chapter 5 Part B Steering, suspension and final drive (XV700-1100 models)

5B-19

Inspection

Refer to illustrations 12.10a and 12.10b

8 Wipe the final gear assembly clean with a rag moistened in

solvent.

9 Check all parts for obvious wear or damage and replace any worn

or damaged parts.

10 Check the driveshaft splines for step wear. Make sure the snap-

ring at the rear end of the driveshaft is securely seated in its groove

(see illustrations).

11 The final drive unit requires special tools to measure and adjust

gear backlash. The procedure is complicated and should be done by a

dealer service department or other qualified shop. Rotate the

driveshaft by hand. The ring gear splines (the part that mates with the

rear wheel) should rotate smoothly. If rotation feels rough or jerky or if

its noisy, have the final drive unit disassembled and inspected.

12.7a Pull the final drive assembly and driveshaft clear of the

swingarm

12.7b Final drive assembly (shaft drive models)

- exploded view

1 Collar

2 O-ring

3 Oil seal

4 Shim(s)

5 Bearing

6 Ring gear

7 Thrust washer

8 Bearing

9 Oil seal

10 Guide collar

11 Bearing

12 Pinion gear

13 Shim(s)

14 Bearing

15 Bearing retainer

16 O-ring

17 Oil seal

18 Gear coupling

19 Driveshaft

20 Oil seal

21 Snap-ring

22 Snap-ring

23 Bearing

24 Universal joint 
						

							
5B-20 
Chapter 5 Part B Steering, suspension and final drive (XV700-1100 models)

12.10a Check the driveshaft splines

for step wear 
12.10b Make sure the snap-ring is

securely located in its groove 
13.3 Remove the left footpeg bracket,

together with the muffler/silencer

13.4 Loosen the screws on the

chain case clamps 
13.5a Loosen the cover bolts with an

Allen wrench ... 
13.5b ... evenly, in a criss-cross pattern

Installation

12 Installation is the reverse of the removal steps, with the following

additions:

a) Lubricate the driveshaft splines with multi-purpose lithium-based

grease.

b) Apply silicone sealant to the mating surfaces of the swingarm and

final drive unit.

c) Use new lockwashers and tighten the final drive-to-swingarm nuts

to the torque listed in this Chapters Specifications.

d) Check the oil level in the final drive unit and top up as needed (see

Chapter 1).

13 Drive chain, sprockets and coupling bearing (chain

drive models) - removal, inspection and installation

Note: Removal of the drive chain requires that it be separated with a

chain breaker. If you dont have this tool, it may be less expensive to

have the work done by a dealer service department than to buy it.

Removal

Refer to illustrations 13.3, 13.4, 13.5a, 13.5b, 13.5c, 13.8 and 13.9

1 Remove the rear wheel (see Chapter 6).

2 Remove the shift pedal pinch bolt.

3 Loosen the clamp that secures the left muffler/silencer to the front

exhaust pipe. Remove the nut and bolt that secure the left front

footpeg bracket to the motorcycle, then remove the bracket together

with the left muffler/silencer (see illustration).

4 Loosen the clamp screws and slide the upper and lower chain 
cases backward away from the engine sprocket housing (see

illustration).

5 Remove the Allen bolts and detach the sprocket housing from the

engine (see illustrations). Caution: The housing may be stuck to the

engine with sealant. If its difficult to remove, make sure all fasteners

have been removed. Dont pry against gasket surfaces or they will be

gouged. Tap gently around the edge of the cover to free it.

6 At this point, its necessary to disconnect the chain. For acces,

loosen the clamp and detach the lower chain case from the rear

sprocket housing. Turn the rear sprocket until you locate the soft link,

then use the chain breaker tool to separate it.

7 Lift the chain off the front sprocket and turn the rear sprocket

while pulling the chain out of the cases.

8 Loosen the clamp and detach the upper chain case from the rear

sprocket housing. Unbolt the chain cases from the swingarm and

remove them (see illustration).

9 Remove two bolts, lockwashers and plain washers and detach

the rear sprocket housing from the motorcycle (see illustration).

10 Remove five Allen bolts and detach the sprocket retaining ring

from the rear sprocket housing. Caution: If the retaining ring is stuck in

the sprocket housing, pry it gently and evenly to free it. Dont let it tilt

sideways while prying or it may crack.

11 Once the retaining ring is free, remove its O-ring.

Inspection

Refer to illustrations 13.12 and 13.16

12 Check the sprockets for wear or damage (see illustration). Refer

to Steps 18 and 19 below and replace the sprockets if wear or damage

can be seen. Note: The chain and both sprockets should be replaced

as a set, even if only one component is visibly defective. Installing a 
						

							
Chapter 5 Part B Steering, suspension and final drive (XV700-1100 models)

5B-21

13.5c Final drive housing (chain drive models) -

exploded view

1 Rear sprocket housing

2 Upper chain case

3 Lower chain case

4 Front chain case clamps

5 Rear chain case clamps

6 Clamp screws

7 Sprocket housing cover bolts

8 O-ring

9 Access plug

10 Filler plug

11 Sealing washer

12 O-ring

13 Sprocket retaining ring

14 Grease seal

13.8 These two bolts secure the chain cases to the swingarm 
13.9 Remove the bolts, lockwashers and washers (arrows) to

detach the rear sprocket housing from the frame

new chain on worn sprockets or a worn chain on new sprockets will

accelerate wear of the new components.

13 Check the sprocket retaining ring oil seal for wear and replace it

as necessary.

14 Clean all parts thoroughly with solvent. Be sure to remove all old

grease from the chain and from inside the chain cases.

15 Place the chain1 on a clean flat surface and stretch it out straight.

Squeeze the chain links together, keeping the chain in a straight line.

Measure the length of the chain. Secure one end of the chain to the flat

surface, then pull it out straight and measure its length again. If the

difference between the two measurements is more than one-quarter

inch per foot of chain length, replace the chain. Note: Do not use an Cl-

ang chain. The O-rings will be damaged by being pulled through the

grease in the chain cases and sprocket housings. 
13.12 Check the sprockets in the areas indicated to

see if they are worn excessively