Haynes Yamaha Xv V Twins Manual
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2B-46 Chapter 2 Part B Engine, clutch and transmission (XV700-1100 models) 26.9h Transmission shafts (XV700-1100 models) - exploded view 1 Mainshaft 2 Fourth pinion gear 3 Second-third pinion gear 4 Fifth pinion gear 5 Fifth wheel gear 6 Second wheel gear 7 Driveaxle 8 Third wheel gear 9 Fourth wheel gear 10 Middle drive gear 11 First wheel gear 12 Middle driveshaft 13 Middle driven shaft 14 Middle driven gear 15 Oil pump drive sprocket 26.10a Slide the fifth wheel gear off the driveaxle 26.10b Remove the snap-ring ,
Chapter 2 Part B Engine, clutch and transmission (XV700-1100 models) 2B-47 26.10c ... and the thrust washer ... 26.10d ... and slide second wheel gear off 26,1 Oe At the other end of the driveaxle, slide off the middle drive gear ... 26.10f ... the first wheel gear ... 26.1 Og ... and the fourth wheel gear 26.10h Remove the snap-ring ... 26.101 ... and the thrust washer ... 26.10J ... and the third wheel gear ... 26.10k ... from the driveaxle Driveaxle Refer to illustrations 26.10a through 26.10k 10 To disassemble the driveaxle, refer to the accompanying illustrations. Slide each gear onto a rod, such a wooden dowel or plastic pipe, as soon as its removed from the shaft. Inspection Refer to illustrations 26.12, 26.15, 26.19 and 26.20 11 Wash all of the components in clean solvent and dry them off. Rotate the ball bearings in the left side of the transmission case, feeling for tightness, rough spots and excessive looseness and listening for
2B-48 Chapter 2 Part B Engine, clutch and transmission (XV700-1100 models) 26.12 Check the gear bushings (if equipped) for wear or damage 26.15 Check the teeth, splines and bearing on the middle drive gear 26.19 The stopper plate can be left in position unless its loose or the crankcases are to be replaced - if you remove it, use Loctite Stud n Bearing Mount or equivalent on the screw threads noises. If any of these conditions are found, replace the bearing with a blind hole puller (see illustrations 21.4b and 21.4c). Check the oil seal behind the mainshaft bearing; its a good idea to replace it as a precaution (see Section 21). 13 Check the gear teeth for cracking and other obvious damage. Check the gear bushings and the surface in the inner diameter of each gear for scoring or heat discoloration (see illustration). If the gear or bushing is damaged, replace it. 13 Inspect the dogs and the dog holes in Hie gears for excessive wear. Replace the paired gears as a set if necessary. 14 Place the shaft in V-blocks and check runout with a dial indicator. Replace the shaft if runout exceeds the value listed in this Chapters Specifications. 15 Ifyoure working on a shaft drive model, inspect the middle drive gear (see illustration). Replace the gear if the teeth or splines are worn or damaged. Replace the bearing if its loose, rough or noisy. 16 Check the edges of the grooves in the shift cam for signs of excessive wear. Check the pins on the shift cam for wear and damage. If undesirable conditions are found, replace the shift cam. 17 Check the shift forks for distortion and wear, especially at the fork tips (see illustration 27.5 in Part A of this Chapter). If they are discolored or severely worn they are probably bent. If damage or wear is evident, check the shift fork groove in the corresponding gear as well. Inspect the guide pins and the shaft bore for excessive wear and distortion and replace any defective parts with new ones. 18 Check the shift fork guide bar for evidence of wear, galling and other damage. Make sure the shift forks move smoothly on the bar. If the bar is worn or bent, replace it with a new one. 19 Check the stopper plate in the crankcase for looseness (see illustration). If the plate is loose, remove its screws and apply thread locking compound (Loctite Stud n Bearing Mount or equivalent) to the threads. Reinstall the screws and tighten them to the torque listed in this Chapters Specifications. 20 Check the bearing on the shift cam for looseness, noise or rough movement. If its condition is in doubt, remove the cam plate to replace the bearing (see illustration). Note: The cam plate screw may be very tight. Use an impact driver to remove it Its a good idea to make sure theres a replacement screw in stock at your local Yamaha dealer before removing the old screw. Assembly and installation Refer to illustrations 26.21, 26.22, 26.25, 26.26, 26.27a and 26.27b 21 Assemble the transmission shafts by reversing the disassembly steps. Install the snap-rings with the sharp edges toward the gears theyre retaining, and their rounded edges away from the gears. Coat all parts with clean engine oil during assembly. Position the ends of the snap-rings correctly (see illustration). 22 Install the shift cam in the crankcase (see illustration 26.7). Install the neutral switch (see Chapter 8) and engage the shift cam with it (see illustration). 23 Mesh the gears on both transmission shafts and position the shift fork on the fifth pinion gear. Use the numbers on the forks to position 26.20 Remove the cam plate if necessary to remove the shift cam bearing 26.21 Install the snap-rings with their ends in the correct position 26.22 Install the neutral switch, then turn the shift cam to align with it
Chapter 2 Part B Engine, clutch and transmission (XV700-1100 models) 2B-49 26.25 Engage the pin on the fifth pinion gear shift fork with the groove in the shift cam 26.26 Install the remaining two shift forks and engage their pins with the shift cam grooves 26.27a Slide the guide bar through the forks ... 26.27b ... and align its flat with the teeth of the middle drive gear them correctly. The forks are numbered from one to three, starting from the left side of the engine. 24 Install the transmission shafts and fifth pinion gear shift fork as an assembly (see illustration 26.6). 25 Engage the shift fork pin with the shift cam (see illustration). 26 Install the remaining two shift forks in their gear grooves and engage their pins with the shift cam (see illustration). 27 Slide the shift fork guide bar through the forks (see illustration). Turn the guide bar so its flat is aligned with the middle-drive gear teeth (see illustration). 28 The remainder of installation is the reverse of the removal steps. 27 Initial start-up after overhaul 1 Make sure the engine oil level is correct, then remove the spark plugs from the engine. Place the engine kill switch in the Off position and unplug the primary (low tension) wires from the coils. 2 Turn on the key switch and crank the engine over with the starter several times to build up oil pressure. Reinstall the spark plugs, connect the wires and turn the switch to On. 3 Make sure there is fuel in the tank, then turn the fuel tap to the On position and operate the choke. 4 Start the engine and allow it to run at a moderately fast idle until it reaches operating temperature. 5 Check carefully for oil leaks and make sure the transmission and controls, especially the brakes, function properly before road testing the machine. Refer to Section 28 for the recommended break-in procedure. 6 Upon completion of the road test, and after the engine has cooled down completely, recheck the valve clearances (see Chapter 1). 28 Recommended break-in procedure 1 Any rebuilt engine needs time to break-in, even if parts have been installed in their original locations. For this reason, treat the machine gently for the first few miles to make sure oil has circulated throughout the engine and any new parts installed have started to seat. 2 Even greater care is necessary if the engine has been rebored or a new crankshaft has been installed. In the case of a rebore, the engine will have to be broken in as if the machine were new. This means greater use of the transmission and a restraining hand on the throttle until at least 500 miles (800 km) have been covered. Theres no point in keeping to any set speed limit - the main idea is to keep from lugging the engine and to gradually increase performance until the 500 mile (800 km) mark is reached. These recommendations can be lessened to an extent when only a new crankshaft is installed. Experience is the best guide, since its easy to tell when an engine is running freely. The following recommendations, which Yamaha provides for new motorcycles, can be used as a guide: a) 0 to 90 miles (0 to 150 km): Keep engine speed below 3,000 rpm. Turn off the engine after each hour of operation and let it cool for 5 to 10 minutes. Vary the engine speed and dont use full throttle. b) 90 to 300 miles (150 to 500 km): Dont run the engine for long periods above 4,000 rpm. Rev the engine freely through the gears, but dont use full throttle. c) 300 to 600 miles (500 to 1000 km): Dont use full throttle for prolonged periods and dont cruise at speeds above 5,000 rpm. d) At 600 miles (1,000 km): Change the engine oil and filter. Full throttle can be used after this point. 3 If a lubrication failure is suspected, stop the engine immediately and try to find the cause. If an engine is run without oil, even for a short period of time, severe damage will occur.
2B-50 Chapter 2 Part B Engine, clutch and transmission (XV700-1100 models) Notes
3A-1 Chapter 3 Part A Fuel and exhaust systems (XV535 models) Contents Section Air induction system (1990-on US models) - inspection and component replacement 13 Air filter element - servicing See Chapter 1 Carburetor overhaul - general information 5 Carburetors and intake joints - removal and installation 6 Carburetors - disassembly, inspection, cleaning and reassembly 7 Carburetors - fuel level adjustment 8 Evaporation control system (California models) - inspection and canister replacement 14 Exhaust system - removal and installation 10 Fuel pump and relay - replacement 12 Section Fuel pump - circuit check and fuel pump test 11 Fuel reserve switch - test See Chapter 8 Fuel sender - replacement See Chapter 8 Fuel system - check and filter replacement See Chapter 1 Fuel tank - cleaning and repair 3 Fuel tank - removal and installation 2 General information 1 Idle fuel/air mixture adjustment - general information 4 Idle speed - check and adjustment See Chapter 1 Throttle cables and grip - removal, installation and adjustment.... 9 Throttle operation/grip freeplay - check and adjustment See Chapter 1
3A-2 Chapter 3 Part A Fuel and exhaust systems (XV535 models) Specifications Carburetor Type Mikuni BDS34 (two) Jet sizes Main jet 1987 and 1988 135 1989 through 1993 Front cylinder 137.5 Rear cylinder 135 1994 US Front cylinder 137.5 Rear cylinder 135 1994 UK and Canada 135 Main air jet 140 Jet needle/clip position 1987 and 1988 US and Canada Front cylinder 5DZ7-1 Rear cylinder 5DZ8-1 1990 through 1993 US and Canada Front cylinder 5DZ17-1 Rear cylinder 5DZ18-1 1994 US Front cylinder 5DZ17-1 Rear cylinder 5DZ18-1 1994 Canada Front cylinder 5DZ9-3 Rear cylinder 5DZ10-3 All UK Front cylinder 5DZ10-3 Rear cylinder 5DZ9-3 Main nozzle Y-0 Pilot air jet no. 1 1987 and 1988 US 60 All others 70 Pilot air jet no. 2 1987 and 1988 US 160 All others 170 Pilot jet 1987 and 1988 US 32.5 Ail others 35 Pilot screw 1987 and 1988 US Preset (not specified) 1990 through 1993 US and Canada 2-1/2 turns out 1994 US . 2-1/2 turns out 1994 Canada, all UK 2 turns out Valve seat size 1.5 Starter jet Except 1994 US 40 1994 US 35 Fuel level 13.5 to 14.5 mm (0.53 to 0.57 inch) Fuel tank capacity 1987 and 1988 models 8.6 liters (2.3 US gal, 1.9 Imp gal), including reserve of 2.5 liters (0.7 US gal, 0.5 Imp gal) 1989-on models 13.5 liters (3.6 US gal, 3.0 Imp gal), including reserve of 2.5 liters (0.7 US gal, 0.5 Imp gal) Tightening torques Carburetor joint bolts 12 Nm (8.7 ft-lbs) Exhaust pipe-to-cylinder head nuts 20 Nm (14 ft-lbs) Exhaust pipe rear joint bolt 10 Nm (7.2ft-lbs) Muffler/silencer chamber bolt and nut 20 Nm (14 ft-lbs)
Chapter 3 Part A Fuel and exhaust systems (XV535 models) 3A-3 2.4a Release the fuel hoses from the clips on top of the battery cover A Clips B Hose clamps C Tank mounting bolts D Battery positive cable (always disconnect the negative cable first) 2.4b Fuel tanks and lines (models with upper fuel tank) 1 Fuel lines 2 Fuel filter 3 Fuel pump 4 Fuel tap 5 Lower fuel tank 6 Upper fuel tank 2.5a Remove the upper tank mounting bolt at the rear ... 2.5b ... and one on each side 1 General information The fuel system consists of the fuel tank, the fuel tap and filter, the carburetors and the connecting lines, hoses and control cables and an electric fuel pump. The carburetors used on these motorcycles are two Mikunis with butterfly-type throttle valves. For cold starting, an enrichment circuit is actuated by a choke lever mounted on the left side of the bike. The exhaust system routes exhaust gases into a muffler/silencer chamber under the bike and then into twin exhaust pipes on the right side. Many of the fuel system service procedures are considered routine maintenance items and for that reason are included in Chapter 1. 2 Fuel tank - removal and installation Warning: Gasoline (petrol) is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Dont smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and dont work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or clothes dryer) is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a fire extinguisher suitable for class B fires (flammable liquids) on hand. 1 All models have a main fuel tank mounted beneath the seat. Later models also have an upper fuel tank mounted forward of the seat on top of the upper frame section in the traditional position (on early models, what looks like a fuel tank is actually a cover). 2 Support the bike securely so it cant be knocked over during this procedure. 3 Remove the seat (see Chapter 7). Upper fuel tank Refer to illustrations 2.4a, 2.4b, 2.5a, 2.5b, 2.6a and 2.6b 4 Free the fuel hoses from the clips on top of the battery cover, remove the cover and disconnect the negative cable from the battery (see illustrations). 5 Remove the upper tank mounting bolts and washers (see illustrations). Remove the metal collars from inside the left and right rubber dampers, then remove all three dampers.
3A-4 Chapter 3 Part A Fuel and exhaust systems (XV535 models) 2.6a Lift the tank and disconnect the hoses from the fittings (arrows) . . . 2.6b ... theres a fuel hose on each side 2.10 Remove the mounting bolts (arrows) and take off the footpeg bracket 2.11 Fuel tank and lines (models without upper fuel tank) 1 Vapor hoses 2 Breather hose 3 Rollover valve 4 Fuel filter 5 Fuel pump 6 Fuel tank 7 Rubber cover 2.13 Work the drain fitting (arrow) free of the rubber cover and lift the cover out 6 Hold a pan under the fittings to catch drained fuel, lift the upper tank and disconnect the fuel hoses (see illustrations). Liff the tank off the bike. Warning: Pour the drained fuel into a safe fuel storage container. Dont leave it in the drain pan. Main fuel tank Refer to illustrations 2.10,2.11, 2.13, 2.14a and 2.14b 7 If youre working on a bike with an upper fuel tank, remove it. Disconnect the upper tank hoses from their fittings on the main tank (see illustrations 2.4a and 2.4b). 8 Remove the left side cover (see Chapter 7). 9 If youre working on a bike without an upper fuel tank, remove the fuel filler cap. 10 Remove the left passenger footpeg bracket (see illustration). 11 Remove the fuel filter (see Chapter 1 and the accompanying illustration). 12 Disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector and the line that runs from the pump to the carburetors (see Section 12). If you plan to remove the fuel pump, this is a good time to do it; if not, it can be left attached to the tank.- 13 If youre working on a bike without an upper fuel tank, remove the rubber cover from the top of the main tank (see illustration). 14 Remove the tank mounting bolts and disengage the rubber dampers from the brackets (see illustrations). 15 Check to make sure all hoses and wires have been disconnected, then remove the tank through the left side of the frame. All models 16 Before installing the tank, check the condition of the hoses and rubber mounting dampers - if theyre hardened, cracked, or show any other signs of deterioration, replace them. 17 When replacing the tank, reverse the above procedure. Make sure the tank seats properly and does not pinch any control cables or wires. 3 Fuel tank - cleaning and repair 1 All repairs to the fuel tank should be carried out by a professional who has experience in this critical and potentially dangerous work.
Chapter 3 Part A Fuel and exhaust systems (XV535 models) 3A-5 2.14a Remove the mounting bolts ... 2.14b ... and detach the rubber dampers from the brackets 6.6 Free the hose from the retaining clips Even after cleaning and flushing of the fuel system, explosive fumes can remain and ignite during repair of the tank. 2 If the fuel tank is removed from the vehicle, it should not be placed in an area where sparks or open flames could ignite the fumes coming out of the tank. Be especially careful inside garages where a natural gas-type appliance is located, because the pilot light could cause an explosion. 4 Idle fuel/air mixture adjustment - general information 1 Due to the increased emphasis on controlling motorcycle exhaust emissions, certain governmental regulations have been formulated which directly affect the carburetion of this machine. In order to comply with the regulations, the carburetors on some models have a metal sealing plug pressed into the hole over the pilot screw (which controls the idle fuel/air mixture) on each carburetor, so they cant be tampered with. These should only be removed in the event of a complete carburetor overhaul, and even then the screws should be returned to their original settings. The pilot screws on other models are accessible, but the use of an exhaust gas analyzer is the only accurate way to adjust the idle fuel/air mixture and be sure the machine doesnt exceed the emissions regulations. 2 If the engine runs extremely rough or blows black smoke at idle or continually stalls, and if a carburetor overhaul does not cure the problem, take the motorcycle to a Yamaha dealer service department or other repair shop equipped with an exhaust gas analyzer. They will be able to properly adjust the idle fuel/air mixture to achieve a smooth idle and restore low speed performance. 5 Carburetor overhaul - general information 1 Poor engine performance, hesitation, hard starting, stalling, flooding and backfiring are all signs that major carburetor maintenance may be required. 2 Keep in mind that many so-called carburetor problems are really not carburetor problems at all, but mechanical problems within the engine or ignition system malfunctions. Try to establish for certain that the carburetors are in need of maintenance before beginning a major overhaul. 3 Check the fuel filter, the fuel lines, the fuel tank breather hose(s), the rollover valve (models with evaporative emission control), the intake manifold hose clamps, the vacuum hoses, the air filter element, the cylinder compression, the spark plugs, the carburetor synchro- nization and the fuel pump before assuming that a carburetor overhaul is required. 4 Most carburetor problems are caused by dirt particles, varnish and other deposits which build up in and block the fuel and air passages. Also, in time, gaskets and O-rings shrink or deteriorate and cause fuel and air leaks which lead to poor performance. 5 When the carburetor is overhauled, it is generally disassembled completely and the parts are cleaned thoroughly with a carburetor cleaning-solvent and dried with filtered, unlubricated compressed air. The fuel and air passages are also blown through with compressed air to force out any dirt that may have been loosened but not removed by the solvent. Once the cleaning process is complete, the carburetor is reassembled using new gaskets, O-rings and, generally, a new inlet needle valve and seat. 6 Before disassembling the carburetors, make sure you have a carburetor rebuild kit (which will include all necessary O-rings and other parts), some carburetor cleaner, a supply of rags, some means of blowing out the carburetor passages and a clean place to work. It is recommended that only one carburetor be overhauled at a time to avoid mixing up parts. 7 Dont separate the carburetors from each other unless one of the joints between them is leaking. The carburetors can be overhauled completely without being separated, and reconnecting them properly can be difficult. 6 Carburetors and intake joints - removal and installation Warning: Gasoline (petrol) is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Dont smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and dont work in a garage where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or clothes dryer) is present. If you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have an extinguisher suitable for class B fires (flammable liquids) on hand. Removal Refer to illustrations 6.6, 6.8, 6.9, 6.10a, 6.10b, 6.11a, 6.11b, 6.11c, 6.13a and 6.13b 1 Remove the seat (see Chapter 7). 2 If youre working on a model with an upper fuel tank, remove it (see Section 2). 3 If youre working on a model without an upper fuel tank, remove the top cover (see Chapter 7). 4 Remove the left front side cover and its bracket (see Chapter 7). 5 . Remove the right front side cover and the electrical component board beneath it (see Chapter 7). 6 Work the hose on the right side free of the clips (see illustration). 7 Disconnect the throttle cable from the pulley (see Section 9).