1991 1999 ford explorer chilton User Manual

							Disconnect the electrical connector from the inertia switch
1. 
Crank the engine for about 15-30 seconds or, if the vehicle starts, until it runs out of fuel.
2. 
Raise and support the vehicle safely.
2. 
Remove the fuel filter mounting bracket retaining nuts ...
... then loosen the filter retaining clamp and slide the bracket assembly back ... HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 47 
						

							... to provide better access to the push connect fittings (arrows)
With a rag positioned to catch any spilled fuel, dis-engage the retainer clip and remove the line Detach the fuel lines from both ends of the fuel filter by disengaging both push connect fittings.
Install new retainer clips in each push connect fitting.
3. 
Note which way the flowdirection arrow points on the old filter.
4. 
Remove the filter from the bracket by loosening the filter retaining clamp enough to allow the filter to
pass through.
5. 
The flowdirection arrow should be positioned as installed in the bracket to ensure proper flow of fuel
through the replacement filter.
Install the filter in the bracket, ensuring proper direction of flow as noted by arrow. Tighten clamp to
15-25 inch lbs.
6. 
Install the push connect fittings at both ends of the filter.
7. 
Lower the vehicle.
8. 
Start the engine and check for leaks.
9. 
PCV Valve
INSPECTION HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
48 PCV Valve 
						

							Typical PCV system operation
Click to enlarge
Check the PCV valve frequently to see if it is free and not gummed up, stuck or blocked. To check the valve,
remove it from the engine and shake it. It should rattle. It is possible to clean the PCV valve by soaking it in a
solvent and blowing it out with compressed air. This can restore the valve to some level of operating order.
This should be used only in emergency situations. Otherwise, the valve should be replaced at least once a
year. Always check PCV valve hose for wear or cracks during service procedure.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Remove the PCV valve by simply disconnecting the vacuum hose from the valve, then pulling the valve from
the rocker cover grommet.
Remove the PCV valve from between the hose and the valve cover grommet
Evaporative Canister HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
INSPECTION 49 
						

							Evaporative canister mounting
Click to enlarge
The fuel evaporative emission control canister should be inspected for damage or leaks at the hose fittings.
Repair or replace any old or cracked hoses. Replace the canister if it is damaged in any way. The canister is
located on the left side radiator support, under the hood.
SERVICING
Ford has designed and tested the evaporative emission components to exceed 120,000 mi. (193,116km) or 10
years of vehicle use. No maintenance or service should be required, except in the case of damage or
malfunction. If either condition should exist, simply replace that component.
Battery
PRECAUTIONS
Always use caution when working on or near the battery. Never allow a tool to bridge the gap between the
negative and positive battery terminals. Also, be careful not to allow a tool to provide a ground between the
positive cable/terminal and any metal component on the vehicle. Either of these conditions will cause a short
circuit, leading to sparks and possible personal injury. HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
50 Evaporative Canister 
						

							
Do not smoke or all open flames/sparks near a battery; the gases contained in the battery are very explosive
and, if ignited, could cause severe injury or death.
All batteries, regardless of type, should be carefully secured by a battery hold-down device. If not, the
terminals or casing may crack from stress during vehicle operation. A battery which is not secured may allow
acid to leak, making it discharge faster. The acid can also eat away at components under the hood.
Always inspect the battery case for cracks, leakage and corrosion. A white corrosive substance on the battery
case or on nearby components would indicate a leaking or cracked battery. If the battery is cracked, it should
be replaced immediately.
GENERAL MAINTENANCE
Always keep the battery cables and terminals free of corrosion. Check and clean these components about once
a year.
Keep the top of the battery clean, as a film of dirt can help discharge a battery that is not used for long
periods. A solution of baking soda and water may be used for cleaning, but be careful to flush this off with
clear water. DO NOT let any of the solution into the filler holes. Baking soda neutralizes battery acid and will
de-activate a battery cell.
Batteries in vehicles which are not operated on a regular basis can fall victim to parasitic loads (small current
drains which are constantly drawing current from the battery). Normal parasitic loads may drain a battery on a
vehicle that is in storage and not used for 6-8 weeks. Vehicles that have additional accessories such as a
phone or an alarm system may discharge a battery sooner. If the vehicle is to be stored for longer periods in a
secure area and the alarm system is not necessary, the negative battery cable should be disconnected to protect
the battery.
Remember that constantly deep cycling a battery (completely discharging and recharging it) will shorten
battery life.
BATTERY FLUID
Check the battery electrolyte level at least once a month, or more often in hot weather or during periods of
extended vehicle operation. On non-sealed batteries, the level can be checked either through the case (if
translucent) or by removing the cell caps. The electrolyte level in each cell should be kept filled to the split
ring inside each cell, or the line marked on the outside of the case. HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
PRECAUTIONS 51 
						

							Maintenance-free batteries usually contain a built-in hydrometer to check fluid level
If the level is low, add only distilled water through the opening until the level is correct. Each cell must be
checked and filled individually. Distilled water should be used, because the chemicals and minerals found in
most drinking water are harmful to the battery and could significantly shorten its life.
If water is added in freezing weather, the vehicle should be driven several miles to allow the water to mix with
the electrolyte. Otherwise, the battery could freeze.
Although some maintenance-free batteries have removable cell caps, the electrolyte condition and level on all
sealed maintenance-free batteries must be checked using the built-in hydrometer eye. The exact type of eye
will vary. But, most battery manufacturers, apply a sticker to the battery itself explaining the readings.
Although the readings from built-in hydrometers will vary, a green eye usually indicates a properly
charged battery with sufficient fluid level. A dark eye is normally an indicator of a battery with
sufficient fluid, but which is low in charge. A light or yellow eye usually indicates that electrolyte has
dropped below the necessary level. In this last case, sealed batteries with an insufficient electrolyte must
usually be discarded.
Checking the Specific Gravity
A hydrometer is required to check the specific gravity on all batteries that are not maintenance-free. On
batteries that are maintenance-free, the specific gravity is checked by observing the built-in hydrometer
eye on the top of the battery case. HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
52 BATTERY FLUID 
						

							On non-sealed batteries, the fluid level can be checked by removing the cell caps
If the fluid level is low, add only distilled water until the level is correctCheck the specific gravity of the batterys electrolyte with a hydrometer HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
BATTERY FLUID 53 
						

							CAUTION
Battery electrolyte contains sulfuric acid. If you should splash any on your skin or in your eyes, flush the
affected area with plenty of clear water. If it lands in your eyes, get medical help immediately.
The fluid (sulfuric acid solution) contained in the battery cells will tell you many things about the condition of
the battery. Because the cell plates must be kept submerged below the fluid level in order to operate, the fluid
level is extremely important. And, because the specific gravity of the acid is an indication of electrical charge,
testing the fluid can be an aid in determining if the battery must be replaced. A battery in a vehicle with a
properly operating charging system should require little maintenance, but careful, periodic inspection should
reveal problems before they leave you stranded.
At least once a year, check the specific gravity of the battery. It should be between 1.20 and 1.26 on the
gravity scale. Most auto stores carry a variety of inexpensive battery hydrometers. These can be used on any
non-sealed battery to test the specific gravity in each cell.
The battery testing hydrometer has a squeeze bulb at one end and a nozzle at the other. Battery electrolyte is
sucked into the hydrometer until the float is lifted from its seat. The specific gravity is then read by noting the
position of the float. If gravity is low in one or more cells, the battery should be slowly charged and checked
again to see if the gravity has come up. Generally, if after charging, the specific gravity between any two cells
varies more than 50 points (0.50), the battery should be replaced, as it can no longer produce sufficient
voltage to guarantee proper operation.
CABLES
Once a year (or as necessary), the battery terminals and the cable clamps should be cleaned. Loosen the
clamps and remove the cables, negative cable first. On top post batteries, the use of a puller specially made for
this purpose is recommended. These are inexpensive and available in most parts stores. Side terminal battery
cables are secured with a small bolt.
Clean the cable clamps and the battery terminal with a wire brush, until all corrosion, grease, etc., is removed
and the metal is shiny. It is especially important to clean the inside of the clamp thoroughly (an old knife is
useful here), since a small deposit of oxidation there will prevent a sound connection and inhibit starting or
charging. Special tools are available for cleaning these parts, one type for conventional top post batteries and
another type for side terminal batteries. It is also a good idea to apply some dielectric grease to the terminal, as
this will aid in the prevention of corrosion.
After the clamps and terminals are clean, reinstall the cables, negative cable last; DO NOT hammer the
clamps onto battery posts. Tighten the clamps securely, but do not distort them. Give the clamps and terminals
a thin external coating of grease after installation, to retard corrosion.
Check the cables at the same time that the terminals are cleaned. If the cable insulation is cracked or broken,
or if the ends are frayed, the cable should be replaced with a new cable of the same length and gauge. HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
54 CABLES 
						

							A special tool is available to pull the clamp from the post
The underside of this special battery tool has a wire brush to clean post terminals HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
CABLES 55 
						

							Place the tool over the battery posts and twist to clean until the metal is shiny
The cable ends should be cleaned as wellHOW TO USE THIS BOOK
56 CABLES