1991 1999 ford explorer chilton User Manual

							Install the retainer using the proper installer tool. Be sure that the retainer is properly seated.
12. 
Apply a thin coat of fresh grease to the new seal lip
Use a suitably sized driver to install the inner bearing seal to the hub
Install the hub and rotor assembly onto the spindle. Keep the hub centered on the spindle to prevent
damage to the spindle and the retainer.
13. 
Install the outer bearing cone and roller assembly and flatwasher on the spindle. Install the adjusting
nut. Adjust the wheel bearings.
14. 
Install the retainer, a new cotter pin and the grease cap. Install the caliper.
15. 
Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs. Before driving the vehicle pump the brake
pedal several times to restore normal brake pedal travel.
16. 
CAUTION
Retighten the wheel lug nuts to specification after about 500 miles of driving. Failure to do this could result in
the wheel coming off while the vehicle is in motion possibly causing loss of vehicle control or collision. HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 885 
						

							
ADJUSTMENT
2WD wheel bearing adjustmentClick to enlarge
Raise and support the vehicle safely. Remove the wheel cover. Remove the grease cap from the hub.
1. 
Wipe the excess grease from the end of the spindle. Remove the cotter pin and retainer. Discard the
cotter pin.
2. 
Loosen the adjusting nut 3 turns.
3. 
WARNING
Obtain running clearance between the disc brake rotor surface and shoe linings by rocking the entire wheel
assembly in and out several times in order to push the caliper and brake pads away from the rotor. An
alternate method to obtain proper running clearance is to tap lightly on the caliper housing. Be sure not to tap
on any other area that may damage the disc brake rotor or the brake lining surfaces. Do not pry on the
phenolic caliper piston. The running clearance must be maintained throughout the adjustment procedure. If
proper clearance cannot be maintained, the caliper must be removed from its mounting. HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
886 ADJUSTMENT 
						

							While rotating the wheel assembly, tighten the adjusting nut to 17-25 ft. lbs. in order to seat the
bearings. Loosen the adjusting nut a half turn. Retighten the adjusting nut 18-20 inch lbs.
4. 
Place the retainer on the adjusting nut. The castellations on the retainer must be in alignment with the
cotter pin holes in the spindle. Once this is accomplished install a new cotter pin and bend the ends to
insure its being locked in place.
5. 
Check for proper wheel rotation. If correct, install the grease cap and wheel cover. If rotation is noisy
or rough recheck your work and correct as required.
6. 
Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs., if the wheel was removed. Before driving
the vehicle pump the brake pedal several times to restore normal brake pedal travel.
7. 
CAUTION
If the wheel was removed, retighten the wheel lug nuts to specification after about 500 miles of driving.
Failure to do this could result in the wheel coming off while the vehicle is in motion possibly causing loss of
vehicle control or collision.
Wheel Alignment
If the tires are worn unevenly, if the vehicle is not stable on the highway or if the handling seems uneven in
spirited driving, the wheel alignment should be checked. If an alignment problem is suspected, first check for
improper tire inflation and other possible causes. These can be worn suspension or steering components,
accident damage or even unmatched tires. If any worn or damaged components are found, they must be
replaced before the wheels can be properly aligned. Wheel alignment requires very expensive equipment and
involves minute adjustments which must be accurate; it should only be performed by a trained technician.
Take your vehicle to a properly equipped shop.
Following is a description of the alignment angles which are adjustable on most vehicles and how they affect
vehicle handling. Although these angles can apply to both the front and rear wheels, usually only the front
suspension is adjustable.
CASTER
Looking at a vehicle from the side, caster angle describes the steering axis rather than a wheel angle. The
steering knuckle is attached to a control arm or strut at the top and a control arm at the bottom. The wheel
pivots around the line between these points to steer the vehicle. When the upper point is tilted back, this is
described as positive caster. Having a positive caster tends to make the wheels self-centering, increasing
directional stability. Excessive positive caster makes the wheels hard to steer, while an uneven caster will
cause a pull to one side. Overloading the vehicle or sagging rear springs will affect caster, as will raising the
rear of the vehicle. If the rear of the vehicle is lower than normal, the caster becomes more positive.
Caster affects straight-line stability. Caster wheels used on shopping carts, for example, employ positive caster
Click to enlarge
HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
Wheel Alignment 887 
						

							
CAMBER
Looking from the front of the vehicle, camber is the inward or outward tilt of the top of wheels. When the tops
of the wheels are tilted in, this is negative camber; if they are tilted out, it is positive. In a turn, a slight amount
of negative camber helps maximize contact of the tire with the road. However, too much negative camber
compromises straight-line stability, increases bump steer and torque steer.
Camber influences tire contact with the roadClick to enlarge
TOE
Looking down at the wheels from above the vehicle, toe angle is the distance between the front of the wheels,
relative to the distance between the back of the wheels. If the wheels are closer at the front, they are said to be
toed-in or to have negative toe. A small amount of negative toe enhances directional stability and provides a
smoother ride on the highway. HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
888 CAMBER 
						

							With toe-in, the distance between the wheels is closer at the front than at the rear
Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning. HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
TOE 889 
						

							
4-WHEEL DRIVE FRONT SUSPENSION
Introduction
Front Suspension Component LocationsClick to enlarge
4-WHEEL DRIVE FRONT SUSPENSION 891 
						

							4WD front suspension-except Mountaineer, 1995-99 Explorer and 1998-99 Ranger
Click to enlarge
Exploded view of the 4WD Mountaineer, 1995-99 Explorer and 1998-99 Ranger front suspension
HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
892 Introduction 
						

							Click to enlarge
Coil Springs
All models except the Mountaineer, 1995-99 Explorer and 1998-99 Ranger use coil springs.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Coil spring and related partsClick to enlarge
Raise the vehicle and install jackstands under the frame. Position a jack beneath the spring under the
axle. Raise the jack and compress the spring.
1. 
Remove the nut retaining the shock absorber to the radius arm. Slide the shock out from the stud.
2. 
Remove the nut that retains the spring to the axle and radius arm. Remove the retainer.
3.  HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
Coil Springs 893 
						

							Slowly lower the axle until all spring tension is released and adequate clearance exists to remove the
spring from its mounting.
4. 
Remove the spring by rotating the upper coil out of the tabs in the upper spring seat. Remove the
spacer and the seat.
5. 
WARNING
The axle must be supported on the jack throughout spring removal and installation, and must not be permitted
to hang by the brake hose. If the length of the brake hose is not sufficient to provide adequate clearance for
removal and installation of the spring, the disc brake caliper must be removed from the spindle. After
removal, the caliper must be placed on the frame or otherwise supported to prevent suspending the caliper
from the brake line hose. These precautions are absolutely necessary to prevent serious damage to the tube
portion of the caliper hose assembly!
If required, remove the stud from the axle assembly.
6. 
To install: If removed, install the stud on the axle and torque to 190-230 ft. lbs. Install the lower seat and spacer
over the stud.
7. 
Place the spring in position and slowly raise the front axle. Ensure springs are positioned correctly in
the upper spring seats.
8. 
Position the spring lower retainer over the stud and lower seat and torque the attaching nut to 70-100
ft. lbs.
9. 
Position the shock absorber to the lower stud and install the attaching nut. Tighten the nut to 41-63 ft.
lbs. Lower the vehicle.
10. 
Torsion Bars
Only the Mountaineer, 1995-99 Explorer and 1998-99 Ranger models use torsion bars.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
894 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 
						

							Exploded view of the torsion bar rear mounting components
Click to enlarge
WARNING
If equipped, always turn off the Automatic Ride Control (ARC) service switch before lifting the vehicle off of
the ground. Failure to do so could damage the ARC system components. Refer to Section 1 for jacking
procedures.
A special tool (Torsion Bar Tool T95T-520-A) is required for removing the torsion bar. Also, anytime
the torsion bar or its adjuster is removed, the vehicle ride height must be checked.
Raise and safely support the front of the vehicle. Place the jackstands so as to support the frame of the
vehicle. Do not position the jackstands under the lower control arms and do not use car ramps. The
lower control arms must be free to hang unhindered.
1. 
Remove the torsion bar protector/skid plate from the frame.
2. 
Remove the torsion bar adjuster bolt from the support nut. Count the number of turns required to
remove the bolt and record it for installation.
3.  HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 895