1991 1999 ford explorer chilton User Manual

							Exploded view of the typical transmission-to-engine mounting and related components
Click to enlarge
Exploded view of a 2.9L engine crossmember assembly-other models are similar Click to enlarge
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
1. 
Remove the gearshift lever assembly from the control housing.
2. 
Cover the opening in the control housing with a cloth to prevent dirt from falling into the unit.
3. 
Raise the vehicle and support it safely.
4.  HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 761 
						

							On 2WD vehicles, matchmark the driveshaft to the rear axle flange. Position a drain pan under the
tailend of the transmission. Remove the driveshaft-to-rear axle flange fasteners and pull the
driveshaft rearward to disconnect it from the transmission.
5. 
Disconnect the clutch hydraulic line a the clutch housing. Plug the lines.
6. 
Disconnect the speedometer from the transfer case/extension housing.
7. 
Disconnect the starter motor, back-up lamp and, if equipped, neutral sensing switch harness
connector.
8. 
Place a wood block on a service jack and position the jack under the engine oil pan.
9. 
On 4WD vehicles, remove the transfer case from the vehicle.
10. 
Remove the starter motor.
11. 
Position a transmission jack, under the transmission.
12. 
Remove the transmission-to-engine retaining bolts and washers.
13. 
Remove the nuts and bolts attaching the transmission mount and damper to the crossmember.
14. 
Remove the nuts and bolts attaching the crossmember to the frame side rails and remove the
crossmember.
15. 
Lower the engine jack slightly to angle the transmission assembly. Work the clutch housing off the
locating dowels and slide the clutch housing and the transmission rearward until the input shaft clears
the clutch disc.
16. 
Lower the transmission jack and remove the transmission from the vehicle.
17. 
To install: Check that the mating surfaces of the clutch housing, engine rear and dowel holes are free of burrs,
dirt and paint.
18. 
Place the transmission on the transmission jack. Position the transmission under the vehicle, then raise
it into position. Align the input shaft splines with the clutch disc splines and work the transmission
forward into the locating dowels.
19. 
Install the transmission-to-engine retaining bolts and washers. Tighten the retaining bolts to
specifications. Remove the transmission jack.
20. 
Install the starter motor. Tighten the attaching nuts.
21. 
Raise the engine and install the rear crossmember, insulator and damper and attaching nuts and bolts.
Tighten and torque the bolts to specification.
22. 
On 4WD vehicles, install the transfer case.
23. 
On 2WD vehicles, insert the driveshaft into the transmission extension housing and install the center
bearing attaching nuts, washers and lockwashers. Connect the driveshaft to the rear axle drive flange.
24. 
Connect the starter motor, back-up lamp and, if equipped, neutral sensing switch connectors.
25. 
Connect the hydraulic clutch line and bleed the system.
26. 
Install the speedometer cable.
27. 
Check and adjust the fluid level.
28. 
Lower the vehicle.
29. 
Install the gearshift lever assembly. Install the boot cover and bolts.
30. 
Reconnect the negative battery cable.
31. 
Check for proper shifting and operation of the transmission.
32. 
Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning. HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
762 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 
						

							
CLUTCH
Understanding the Clutch
The purpose of the clutch is to disconnect and connect engine power at the transmission. A vehicle at rest
requires a lot of engine torque to get all that weight moving. An internal combustion engine does not develop
a high starting torque (unlike steam engines) so it must be allowed to operate without any load until it builds
up enough torque to move the vehicle. To a point, torque increases with engine rpm. The clutch allows the
engine to build up torque by physically disconnecting the engine from the transmission, relieving the engine
of any load or resistance.
The transfer of engine power to the transmission (the load) must be smooth and gradual; if it werent, drive
line components would wear out or break quickly. This gradual power transfer is made possible by gradually
releasing the clutch pedal. The clutch disc and pressure plate are the connecting link between the engine and
transmission. When the clutch pedal is released, the disc and plate contact each other (the clutch is engaged)
physically joining the engine and transmission. When the pedal is pushed in, the disc and plate separate (the
clutch is disengaged) disconnecting the engine from the transmission.
Most clutch assemblies consists of the flywheel, the clutch disc, the clutch pressure plate, the throw out
bearing and fork, the actuating linkage and the pedal. The flywheel and clutch pressure plate (driving
members) are connected to the engine crankshaft and rotate with it. The clutch disc is located between the
flywheel and pressure plate, and is splined to the transmission shaft. A driving member is one that is attached
to the engine and transfers engine power to a driven member (clutch disc) on the transmission shaft. A driving
member (pressure plate) rotates (drives) a driven member (clutch disc) on contact and, in so doing, turns the
transmission shaft.
There is a circular diaphragm spring within the pressure plate cover (transmission side). In a relaxed state
(when the clutch pedal is fully released) this spring is convex; that is, it is dished outward toward the
transmission. Pushing in the clutch pedal actuates the attached linkage. Connected to the other end of this is
the throw out fork, which hold the throw out bearing. When the clutch pedal is depressed, the clutch linkage
pushes the fork and bearing forward to contact the diaphragm spring of the pressure plate. The outer edges of
the spring are secured to the pressure plate and are pivoted on rings so that when the center of the spring is
compressed by the throw out bearing, the outer edges bow outward and, by so doing, pull the pressure plate in
the same direction - away from the clutch disc. This action separates the disc from the plate, disengaging the
clutch and allowing the transmission to be shifted into another gear. A coil type clutch return spring attached
to the clutch pedal arm permits full release of the pedal. Releasing the pedal pulls the throw out bearing away
from the diaphragm spring resulting in a reversal of spring position. As bearing pressure is gradually released
from the spring center, the outer edges of the spring bow outward, pushing the pressure plate into closer
contact with the clutch disc. As the disc and plate move closer together, friction between the two increases and
slippage is reduced until, when full spring pressure is applied (by fully releasing the pedal) the speed of the
disc and plate are the same. This stops all slipping, creating a direct connection between the plate and disc
which results in the transfer of power from the engine to the transmission. The clutch disc is now rotating with
the pressure plate at engine speed and, because it is splined to the transmission shaft, the shaft now turns at the
same engine speed.
The clutch is operating properly if: It will stall the engine when released with the vehicle held stationary.
1. 
The shift lever can be moved freely between 1st and reverse gears when the vehicle is stationary and
the clutch disengaged.
2. 
CLUTCH 763 
						

							
Clutch Interlock Switch
The clutch interlock switch has 3-functions. It is also known as the Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) switch and
provides the 3 following functions:
It requires the clutch pedal to be depressed to the floor in order to start the engine.
· 
If cuts off the speed control system when the clutch pedal is depressed.
· 
It provides a fuel control signal to the EEC system.
· 
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Disconnect the negative battery cable.
1. 
Disconnect the connector at the switch by flexing the retaining tab on the switch housing and
withdraw the connector.
2. 
Rotate the switch  1
/2  turn to expose the plastic retainer.
3. 
Push the tabs together to allow the retainer to slide rearward and separate from the switch.
4. 
Remove the switch from the pushrod.
5. 
View of the 3-function clutch interlock (or CPP) switch
To install:
Fit the switch to the master cylinder pushrod.
6. 
Install the plastic retainer.
7. 
Rotate the switch into the position to attach the clip. Reconnect the switch connector.
8. 
Reconnect the negative battery cable.
9. 
Master Cylinder and Reservoir
The hydraulic clutch system operates much like a hydraulic brake system. When you push down (disengage)
the clutch pedal, the mechanical clutch pedal movement is converted into hydraulic fluid movement, which is
then converted back into mechanical movement by the slave cylinder to actuate the clutch release lever.
The system consists of a combination clutch fluid reservoir/master cylinder assembly, a slave cylinder
mounted on the bellhousing, and connecting tubing. HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
764 Clutch Interlock Switch 
						

							
Fluid level is checked at the master cylinder reservoir. The hydraulic clutch system continually remains in
adjustment, like a hydraulic disc brake system, so not clutch linkage or pedal adjustment is necessary.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Typical hydraulic clutch system used on all modelsClick to enlarge
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
1. 
Disconnect the clutch master cylinder pushrod from the clutch pedal.
2. 
Remove the switch from the master cylinder assembly, if equipped.
3. 
Remove the screw retaining the fluid reservoir to the cowl access cover.
4. 
Disconnect the tube from the slave cylinder and plug both openings.
5. 
Remove the bolts retaining the clutch master cylinder to the dash panel and remove the clutch master
cylinder assembly.
6. 
To install: Install the pushrod through the hole in the engine compartment. Make certain it is located on the
correct side of the clutch pedal. Place the master cylinder assembly in position and install the
retaining bolts. Tighten to 1-12 ft. lbs. (11-16Nm).
7. 
Insert the coupling end into the slave cylinder and install the tube into the clips.
8. 
Fit the reservoir on the cowl access cover and install the retaining screws.
9. 
Replace the retainer bushing in the clutch master cylinder pushrod if worn or damaged. Install the
retainer and pushrod on the clutch pedal pin. Make certain the bushing is fitted correctly with the
10.  HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
Master Cylinder and Reservoir 765 
						

							flange of the bushing against the pedal blade.
Install the switch.
11. 
Bleed the system.
12. 
Reconnect the negative battery cable.
13. 
Slave Cylinder
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Slave cylinder
Click to enlarge
Before performing any service that requires removal of the slave cylinder, the master cylinder and
pushrod must be disconnected from the clutch pedal. If not disconnected, permanent damage to the
master cylinder assembly will occur if the clutch pedal is depressed while the slave cylinder is
disconnected. HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
766 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 
						

							View of the clutch line coupling removal tool
Click to enlarge
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
1. 
Disconnect the coupling at the transmission, using the clutch coupling removal tool T88T-70522-A
or equivalent. Slide the white plastic sleeve toward the slave cylinder while applying a slight tug on
the tube.
2. 
Remove the transmission assembly.
3. 
On the 2.9L (4WD) vehicles, the clutch housing must be removed with the transmission assembly. Remove the slave cylinder-to-transmission retaining bolts.
4. 
Remove the slave cylinder from the transmission input shaft.
5. 
To install: Fit the slave cylinder over the transmission input shaft with the bleed screws and coupling facing the
left side of the transmission.
6. 
Install the slave cylinder retaining bolts. Torque to 13-19 ft. lbs. (18-26Nm).
7. 
Install the transmission.
8.  HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 767 
						

							Reconnect the coupling to the slave cylinder.
9. 
Bleed the system.
10. 
Reconnect the negative battery cable.
11. 
BLEEDING THE SYSTEM
The following procedure is recommended for bleeding a hydraulic system installed on the vehicle. The largest
portion of the filling is carried out by gravity. It is recommended that the original clutch tube with quick
connect be replaced when servicing the hydraulic system because air can be trapped in the quick connect and
prevent complete bleeding of the system. The replacement tube does not include a quick connect.
Clean the dirt and grease from the dust cap.
1. 
Remove the cap and diaphragm and fill the reservoir to the top with approved brake fluid
C6AZ-19542-AA or BA, (ESA-M6C25-A) or equivalent.
2. 
To keep brake fluid from entering the clutch housing, route a suitable rubber tube of appropriate
inside diameter from the bleed screw to a container.
Loosen the bleed screw, located in the slave cylinder body, next to the inlet connection. Fluid will
now begin to move from the master cylinder down the tube to the slave cylinder.
3. 
The reservoir must be kept full at all time during the bleeding operation, to ensure no additional air
enters the system.
Notice the bleed screw outlet. When the slave is full, a steady stream of fluid comes from the slave
outlet. Tighten the bleed screw.
4. 
Depress the clutch pedal to the floor and hold for 1-2 seconds. Release the pedal as rapidly as
possible. The pedal must be released completely. Pause for 1-2 seconds. Repeat 10 times.
5. 
Check the fluid level in the reservoir. The fluid should be level with the step when the diaphragm is
removed.
6. 
Repeat Step 5 and 6 five times. Replace the reservoir diaphragm and cap.
7. 
Hold the pedal to the floor, crack open the bleed screw to allow any additional air to escape. Close the
bleed screw, then release the pedal.
8. 
Check the fluid in the reservoir. The hydraulic system should now be fully bled and should release the
clutch.
9. 
Check the vehicle by starting, pushing the clutch pedal to the floor and selecting reverse gear. There
should be no grating of gears. If there is, and the hydraulic system still contains air, repeat the
bleeding procedure from Step 5.
10. 
Driven Disc and Pressure Plate CAUTION
The clutch driven disc may contain asbestos, which has been determined to be a cancer causing agent. Never
clean clutch surfaces with compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any clutch surface! When cleaning
clutch surface, use a commercially available brake cleaning fluid.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
768 BLEEDING THE SYSTEM 
						

							Exploded view of the clutch components for 2.3L, 2.5L, 3.0L & 4.0L engines-other engines are similar
Click to enlarge
Pressure plate bolt torque sequence
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
1.  HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 769 
						

							Disconnect the clutch hydraulic system master cylinder from the clutch pedal and remove.
2. 
Raise the vehicle and support it safely.
3. 
Remove the starter.
4. 
Disconnect the hydraulic coupling at the transmission.
5. 
Clean the area around the hose and slave cylinder to prevent fluid contamination. Remove the transmission from the vehicle.
6. 
Mark the assembled position of the pressure plate and cover the flywheel, to aid during re-assembly.
7. 
Loosen and remove the clutch and pressure plate bolts evenly, a little at a time ...
... then carefully remove the pressure plate and clutch assembly from the flywheel
Loosen the pressure plate and cover attaching bolts evenly until the pressure plate springs are
expanded, and remove the bolts.
8. 
Remove the pressure plate and cover assembly and the clutch disc from the flywheel. Remove the
pilot bearing only for replacement.
9.  HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
770 REMOVAL & INSTALLATION