Husqvarna 135 X Torq Manual

							WORKING TECHNIQUES
English – 211155296-38 Rev.1 2012-11-19does not need to be a danger, you may be surprised 
and lose control of the saw. Never saw stacked logs or 
branches without first separating them. Only saw one 
log or one piece at a time. Remove the cut pieces to 
keep your working area safe. (52)
4Never use the chain saw above shoulder height 
and try not to cut with the tip of the bar. Never use 
the chain saw one-handed!  (53)
5 You must have a steady stance in order to have full 
control over the chain saw. Never work standing on a 
ladder, in a tree or where you do not have firm ground 
to stand on. (54)
6 Always use a fast cutting speed, i.e. full throttle.
7 Take great care when you cut with the top edge of the 
bar, i.e. when cutting from the underside of the object. 
This is known as cutting on the push stroke. The chain 
tries to push the chain saw back towards the user. If 
the saw chain is jamming, the saw may be pushed 
back at you. (55)
8 Unless the user resists this pushing force there is a 
risk that the chain saw will move so far backwards that 
only the kickback zone of the bar is in contact with the 
tree, which will lead to a kickback. (56)
Cutting with the bottom edge of the bar, i.e. from the 
top of the object downwards, is known as cutting on 
the pull stroke. In this case the chain saw pulls itself 
towards the tree and the front edge of the chain saw 
body rests naturally on the trunk when cutting. Cutting 
on the pull stroke gives the operator better control over 
the chain saw and the position of the kickback zone. 
(57)
9 Follow the instructions on sharpening and maintaining 
your bar and chain. When you replace the bar and 
chain use only combinations that are recommended 
by us. See instructions under the headings Cutting 
equipment and Technical data.
Basic cutting technique
General
• Always use full throttle when cutting!
• Reduce the speed to idle after every cut (running the 
engine for too long at full throttle without any load, i.e. 
without any resistance from the chain during cutting, 
can lead to serious engine damage).
• Cutting from above = Cutting on the pull stroke.
• Cutting from below = Cutting on the push stroke.
Cutting on the push stroke increases the risk of kickback. 
See instructions under the heading How to avoid 
kickback.Terms
Cutting = General term for cutting through wood.
Limbing = Cutting branches off a felled tree.
Splitting = When the object you are cutting breaks off 
before the cut is complete.
There are five important factors you should consider 
before making a cut:
1 Make sure the cutting equipment will not jam in the 
cut. (59)
2 Make sure the object you are cutting will not split. (58)
3 Make sure the chain will not strike the ground or any 
other object during or after cutting. (60)
4 Is there a risk of kickback? (4)
5 Do the conditions and surrounding terrain affect how 
safely you can stand and move about?
Two factors decide whether the chain will jam or the object 
that you are cutting will split: the first is how the object is 
supported before and after cutting, and the second is 
whether it is in tension.
In most cases you can avoid these problems by cutting in 
two stages; from the top and from the bottom. You need to 
support the object so that it will not trap the chain or split 
during cutting.
The following instructions describe how to handle the 
commonest situations you are likely to encounter when 
using a chain saw.
Limbing
When limbing thick branches you should use the same 
approach as for cutting.
Cut difficult branches piece by piece. (61)
Cutting
If you have a pile of logs, each log you attempt to cut 
should be removed from the pile, placed on a saw horse 
or runners and cut individually.
Remove the cut pieces from the cutting area. By leaving 
them in the cutting area, you increase the risk for 
inadvertently getting a kickback, as well as increasing the 
risk of losing your balance while working. (62)
!
WARNING! Never use a chain saw by 
holding it with one hand. A chain saw is 
not safely controlled with one hand. 
Always have a secure, firm grip around 
the handles with both hands.
IMPORTANT! If the chain jams in the cut: stop the 
engine! Don’t try to pull the chain saw free. If you do you 
may be injured by the chain when the chain saw 
suddenly breaks free. Use a lever to open up the cut and 
free the chain saw.
!
WARNING! Never attempt to cut logs 
while they are in a pile or when a couple 
of logs are lying together. Such 
procedures drastically increase the risk 
of kickback which can result in a serious 
or fatal injury. 
						

							WORKING TECHNIQUES
22 – English1155296-38 Rev.1 2012-11-19 The log is lying on the ground. There is little risk of the 
chain jamming or the object splitting. However there is a 
risk that the chain will touch the ground when you finish 
the cut. (63)
Cut all the way through the log from above. Avoid letting 
the chain touch the ground as you finish the cut. Maintain 
full throttle but be prepared for what might happen. (64)
If it is possible (can you turn the log?) stop cutting about 
2/3 of the way through the log.
Turn the log and finish the cut from the opposite side. (65)
The log is supported at one end. There is a high risk 
that it will split. (58)
Start by cutting from below (about 1/3 of the way through).
Finish by cutting from above so that the two cuts meet. 
(66)
The log is supported at both ends. There is a high risk 
that the chain will jam. (59)
Start by cutting from above (about 1/3 of the way through).
Finish by cutting from below so that the two cuts meet. 
(67)
Tree felling technique
Safe distance
The safe distance between a tree that is to be felled and 
anyone else working nearby is at least 2 1/2 tree lengths. 
Make sure that no-one else is in this ”risk zone” before or 
during felling. (68)
Felling direction
The aim is to fell the tree in a position where you can limb 
and cross-cut the log as easily as possible. You want it to 
fall in a location where you can stand and move about 
safely.
Once you have decided which way you want the tree to fall 
you must judge which way the tree would fall naturally.
Several factors affect this:
• Lean of the tree
• Bend
• Wind direction
• Arrangement of branches
• Weight of snow
• Obstacles within the reach of the tree: for example, 
other trees, power lines, roads and buildings.
• Look for signs of damage and rot in the stem, this 
makes it more probably that the tree will break and 
start to fall before you expect it to. 
You may find you are forced to let the tree fall in its natural 
direction because it is impossible or dangerous to try to 
make it fall in the direction you first intended.Another very important factor, which does not affect the 
felling direction but does affect your safety, is to make sure 
the tree has no damaged or dead branches that might 
break off and hit you during felling.
The main point to avoid is letting the tree fall onto another 
tree. It is very dangerous to remove a trapped tree and 
there is high accident risk. See instructions under the 
heading Freeing a tree that has fallen badly. (69)
Clearing the trunk and preparing your retreat
Delimb the stem up to shoulder height. It is safer to work 
from the top down and to have the tree between you and 
the saw.   (70)
Remove any undergrowth from the base of the tree and 
check the area for obstacles (stones, branches, holes, 
etc.) so that you have a clear path of retreat when the tree 
starts to fall. Your path of retreat should be roughly 135 
degrees away from the intended felling direction. (71)
1 Danger zone
2 Retreat path
3 Felling direction
Felling
Felling is done using three cuts. First you make the 
directional cuts, which consist of the top cut and the 
bottom cut, then you finish with the felling cut. By placing 
these cuts correctly you can control the felling direction 
very accurately.
Directional cuts
To make the directional cut you begin with the top cut. Aim 
using to the saw’s felling direction mark (1) toward a goal 
further forward in the terrain, where you would like the tree 
to fall (2). Stand on the right-hand side of the tree, behind 
the saw, and cut with a pull stroke.
Next make the bottom cut so that it finishes exactly at the 
end of the top cut. (72)
The directional cuts should run 1/4 of the diameter 
through the trunk and the angle between the top cut and 
bottom cut should be 45°.
The line where the two cuts meet is called the directional 
cut line. This line should be perfectly horizontal and at 
right angles (90°) to the chosen felling direction. (73)
Felling cut
The felling cut is made from the opposite side of the tree 
and it must be perfectly horizontal. Stand on the left side 
of the tree and cut on the pull stroke. IMPORTANT! It takes a lot of experience to fell a tree. 
Inexperienced users of chain saws should not fell trees. 
Do not attempt any task that you feel unsure of!
IMPORTANT! During critical felling operations, hearing 
protectors should be lifted immediately when sawing is 
completed so that sounds and warning signals can be 
heard.
!
WARNING! Unless you have special 
training we advise you not to fell trees 
with a diameter larger than the bar length 
of your saw! 
						

							WORKING TECHNIQUES
English – 231155296-38 Rev.1 2012-11-19Make the felling cut about 3-5 cm (1.5-2 inches) above the 
bottom directional cut. (74)
Set the spike bumper (if one is fitted) just behind the felling 
hinge. Use full throttle and advance the chain/bar slowly 
into the tree. Make sure the tree does not start to move in 
the opposite direction to your intended felling direction. 
Drive a wedge or breaking bar into the cut as soon as it is 
deep enough.
Finish the felling cut parallel with the directional cut line so 
that the distance between them is at least 1/10 of the 
trunk diameter. The uncut section of the trunk is called the 
felling hinge.
The felling hinge controls the direction that the tree falls in. 
(75)
All control over the felling direction is lost if the felling 
hinge is too narrow or non-existent, or if the directional 
cuts and felling cut are badly placed. (76)
When the felling cut and directional cut are complete the 
tree should start to fall by itself or with the aid of a felling 
wedge or breaking bar. (77)
We recommend that you use a bar that is longer than the 
diameter of the tree, so that you can make the felling cut 
and directional cuts with single cutting strokes. See 
instructions under the heading Technical data section to 
find out which lengths of bar are recommended for your 
saw.
There are methods for felling trees with a diameter larger 
than the bar length. However these methods involve a 
much greater risk that the kickback zone of the bar will 
come into contact with the tree. (4)
Freeing a tree that has fallen badly 
Freeing a ”trapped tree”
It is very dangerous to remove a trapped tree and there is 
high accident risk.
Never try to fell the tree that is trapped.
Never work in the risk zone of the hanging trapped tree. 
(78)
The safest method is to use a winch.
• Tractor-mounted
• Portable
Cutting trees and branches that are in tension
Preparations: Work out which side is in tension and where 
the point of maximum tension is (i.e. where it would break 
if it was bent even more). (79)
Decide which is the safest way to release the tension and 
whether you are able to do it safely. In complicated 
situations the only safe method is to put aside your chain 
saw and use a winch.
General advice:
Position yourself so that you will be clear of the tree or 
branch when the tension is released. (80)
Make one or more cuts at or near the point of maximum 
tension. Make as many cuts of sufficient depth as necessary to reduce the tension and make the tree or 
branch break at the point of maximum tension. (81)
Never cut straight through a tree or branch that is in 
tension! 
If you must cut across tree/limb, make two to three cuts, 
one inch apart, one to two inches deep. (82)
Continue to cut deeper until tree/limb bends and tension 
is released. (83)
Cut tree/limb from outside the bend, after tension has 
been released.
How to avoid kickback
What is kickback?
The word kickback is used to describe the sudden 
reaction that causes the chain saw and bar to jump off an 
object when the upper quadrant of the tip of the bar, 
known as the kickback zone, touches an object. (56)
Kickback always occurs in the cutting plane of the bar. 
Normally the chain saw and bar are thrown backwards 
and upwards towards the user. However, the chain saw 
may move in a different direction depending on the way it 
was being used when the kickback zone of the bar 
touched the object. (8)
Kickback only occurs if the kickback zone of the bar 
touches an object. (4)
Limbing
Make sure that you can stand and move about safely. 
Work on the left side of the trunk. Work as close as 
possible to the chain saw for maximum control. If possible, 
let the weight of the chain saw rest on the trunk.
Keep the trunk between you and the chain saw as you 
move along the trunk.
Cutting the trunk into logs
See instructions under the heading Basic cutting 
technique.
!
WARNING! Kickback can happen very 
suddenly and violently; kicking the chain 
saw, bar and chain back at the user. If 
this happens when the chain is moving it 
can cause very serious, even fatal 
injuries. It is vital you understand what 
causes kickback and that you can avoid 
it by taking care and using the right 
working technique.
!
WARNING! A majority of kickback 
accidents occur during limbing. Do not 
use the kickback zone of the guide bar. 
Be extremely cautious and avoid 
contacting the log, other limbs or objects 
with the nose of the guide bar. Be 
extremely cautious of limbs under 
tension. They can spring back toward 
you and cause loss of control resulting 
in injury. 
						

							MAINTENANCE
24 – English1155296-38 Rev.1 2012-11-19
General
The user must only carry out the maintenance and 
service work described in this Operators Manual. More 
extensive work must be carried out by an authorized 
service workshop.
Carburettor adjustment
Your Husqvarna product has been designed and 
manufactured to specifications that reduce harmful 
emissions. 
Function
• The carburettor governs the engine’s speed via the 
throttle control. Air and fuel are mixed in the 
carburettor. The air/fuel mixture is adjustable. Correct 
adjustment is essential to get the best performance 
from the machine.
• The T-screw regulates the throttle setting at idle 
speed. If the T-screw is turned clockwise this gives a 
higher idle speed; turning it anti-clockwise gives a 
lower idle speed.
Basic settings and running in
The basic carburettor settings are adjusted during testing 
at the factory. Fine adjustment should be carried out by a 
skilled technician.
Rec. idle speed: See the Technical data section.
Fine adjustment of the idle speed T
Adjust the idle speed with the T-screw. If it is necessary to 
re-adjust, turn the T-screw clockwise while the engine is 
running, until the chain starts to rotate. Then turn anti-
clockwise until the chain stops. When the idle speed is 
correctly adjusted the engine should run smoothly in 
every position and the engine speed should be safely 
below the speed at which the chain starts to rotate.
Correctly adjusted carburettor
When the carburettor is correctly adjusted the machine 
accelerates without hesitation and 4-cycles a little at full 
throttle. It is also important that the chain does not rotate 
at idle. If the L-jet is set too lean it may cause starting 
difficulties and poor acceleration. If the H-jet is set too 
lean the machine will have less power, poor acceleration 
and could suffer damage to the engine.
Checking, maintaining and 
servicing chain saw safety 
equipment
Chain brake and front hand guard
Checking brake band wear
Brush off any wood dust, resin and dirt from the chain 
brake and clutch drum. Dirt and wear can impair operation 
of the brake. (84)
Regularly check that the brake band is at least 0,6 mm 
thick at its thinnest point.
Checking the front hand guard
Make sure the front hand guard is not damaged and that 
there are no visible defects such as cracks.
Move the front hand guard forwards and back to make 
sure it moves freely and that it is securely anchored to the 
clutch cover.
Checking the inertia brake release
Place the chain saw, with the engine switched off, on a 
stump or other stable surface. Release the front handle 
and let the saw fall by its own weight, rotating around the 
rear handle towards the stump. (85)
When the bar hits the stump the brake should be 
activated. (85)
Checking the right-hand brake trigger
Check that the right hand guard is not damaged and that 
there are no visible defects, such as cracks. (87)
Push the trigger up and forwards to check that it moves 
freely and is securely hinged to the clutch cover. (86)
Never carry or hang the saw by the trigger! This could 
damage the mechanism and disable the chain brake. 
(88)
Checking the brake trigger
Place the chain saw on firm ground and start it. Make sure 
the chain does not touch the ground or any other object. 
See the instructions under the heading Start and stop. 
(89)
Grasp the chain saw firmly, wrapping your fingers and 
thumbs around the handles. (51)
!
WARNING! Contact your servicing 
dealer, if the idle speed setting cannot be 
adjusted so that the chain stops. Do not 
use the chain saw until it has been 
properly adjusted or repaired.
Note! All service and repair work on the machine 
demands special training. This is especially true of the 
machine’s safety equipment. If your machine fails any of 
the checks described below we recommend that you 
take it to your service workshop.  
						

							MAINTENANCE
English – 251155296-38 Rev.1 2012-11-19Apply full throttle and activate the chain brake by tilting 
your left wrist forward onto the front hand guard. Do not let 
go of the front handle. The chain should stop 
immediately. (46)
Throttle lockout
• Make sure the throttle control is locked at the idle 
setting when the throttle lockout is released. (90)
• Press the throttle lockout and make sure it returns to 
its original position when you release it. (91)
• Check that the throttle trigger and throttle lockout 
move freely and that the return springs work properly. 
(92)
• Start the chain saw and apply full throttle. Release the 
throttle control and check that the chain stops and 
remains stationary. If the chain rotates when the 
throttle control is in the idle position you should check 
the carburettor idle adjustment.
Chain catcher
Check that the chain catcher is not damaged and is firmly 
attached to the body of the chain saw. (93)
Right hand guard
Check that the right hand guard is not damaged and that 
there are no visible defects, such as cracks. (12)
Vibration damping system
Regularly check the vibration damping units for cracks or 
deformation. Make sure the vibration damping units are 
securely attached to the engine unit and handle unit. (94)
Stop switch
Start the engine and make sure the engine stops when 
you move the stop switch to the stop setting. (47)
CAUTION! The start/stop switch automatically returns to 
run position. In order to prevent unintentional starting, the 
spark plug cap must be removed from the spark plug 
when assembling, checking and/or performing 
maintenance. 
Muffler
Never use a machine that has a faulty muffler.
Regularly check that the muffler is securely attached to 
the machine. (95)
Some mufflers are equipped with a special spark arrestor 
mesh. If your machine has this type of muffler, you should 
clean the mesh at least once a week. This is best done 
with a wire brush. A blocked mesh will cause the engine 
to overheat and may lead to serious damage.
Note! The mesh must be replaced if it is damaged. If the 
mesh is blocked the machine will overheat and this will 
cause damage to the cylinder and piston. Never use a 
machine with a muffler that is in poor condition. Never 
use a muffler if the spark arrestor mesh is missing or 
defective. (14)
The muffler is designed to reduce the noise level and to 
direct the exhaust gases away from the operator. The 
exhaust gases are hot and can contain sparks, which may 
cause fire if directed against dry and combustible 
material.
Starter
Replacing the starter cord
• Loosen the screws that hold the starter against the 
crankcase and remove the starter. (96)
• Pull out the cord approx. 30 cm and hook it into the 
notch in the rim of the pulley. Release the recoil spring 
by letting the pulley rotate slowly backwards. (97)
• Undo the bolt in the centre of the pulley and remove 
the drive disc (A), drive disc spring (B) and the pulley 
(C). Insert and secure a new starter cord in the starter 
pulley. Wind approx. 3 turns of the starter cord on the 
starter pulley. Fit the starter pulley so that the end of 
the recoil spring (D) hooks into the starter pulley. Now 
assemble the drive disc spring, drive disc and the bolt 
in the centre of the pulley. Carry the starter cord 
through the hole in the starter housing and the starter 
handle. Tie a good knot on the starter cord. (98)
!
WARNING! When the recoil spring is 
wound up in the starter housing it is 
under tension and can, if handled 
carelessly, pop out and cause personal 
injury.
Care must be exercised when replacing 
the return spring or the starter cord. 
Wear protective glasses and protective 
gloves. 
						

							MAINTENANCE
26 – English1155296-38 Rev.1 2012-11-19
Tensioning the recoil spring
• Hook the starter cord in the notch in the pulley and 
turn the starter pulley about 2 turns clockwise.
Note! Check that the pulley can be turned at least a 
further 1/2 turn when the starter cord is pulled all the 
way out. (99)
Stretch the line with the handle. Move your thumb and 
release the line. See the figure below. (99)
Replacing the return and drive springs
Recoil spring (A)
• Lift up the starter pulley. See instructions under the 
heading Changing a broken or worn starter cord. 
Remember that the recoil spring is coiled under 
tension in the starter housing.
• Remove the cassette with the recoil spring from the 
starter.
• Lubricate the recoil spring with light oil. Fit the 
cassette with recoil spring in the starter. Fit the starter 
pulley and tension the recoil spring.
Drive disc spring (B)
• Undo the bolt in the centre of the pulley and remove 
the drive disc and the drive disc spring.
• Replace the drive disc spring and fit the drive disc 
above the spring. (100)
Fitting the starter
• To fit the starter, first pull out the starter cord and place 
the starter in position against the crankcase. Then 
slowly release the starter cord so that the pulley 
engages with the pawls.
• Fit and tighten the screws that hold the starter.
Air filter
The air filter must be regularly cleaned to remove dust and 
dirt in order to avoid:
• Carburettor malfunctions
• Starting problems
• Loss of engine power
• Unnecessary wear to engine parts.
• Excessive fuel consumption.
• Remove the air filter after taking off the air filter cover. 
When refitting make sure that the air filter seals tightly 
against the filter holder. Clean the filter by brushing or 
shaking it. (101)
The filter can be cleaned more thoroughly by washing it in 
water and detergent.An air filter that has been in use for a long time cannot be 
cleaned completely. The filter must therefore be replaced 
with a new one at regular intervals. A damaged air filter 
must always be replaced.
A HUSQVARNA chain saw can be equipped with different 
types of air filter according to working conditions, weather, 
season, etc. Contact your dealer for advice.
Spark plug
The spark plug condition is influenced by:
• Incorrect carburettor adjustment.
• An incorrect fuel mixture (too much or incorrect type of 
oil).
• A dirty air filter.
These factors cause deposits on the spark plug 
electrodes, which may result in operating problems and 
starting difficulties.
If the machine is low on power, difficult to start or runs 
poorly at idle speed: always check the spark plug first 
before taking any further action. If the spark plug is dirty, 
clean it and check that the electrode gap is 0,5 mm. The 
spark plug should be replaced after about a month in 
operation or earlier if necessary. (102)
Note! Always use the recommended spark plug type! Use 
of the wrong spark plug can damage the piston/cylinder. 
Check that the spark plug is fitted with a suppressor.
Lubricating the bar tip sprocket
Lubricate the bar tip sprocket each time you refuel. Use 
the special grease gun and a good quality bearing grease. 
(103)
Needle bearing lubrication
The clutch drum has a needle bearing on the output shaft. 
This needle bearing must be lubricated regularly.
When lubricating, remove the clutch cover by loosening 
the two bar nuts. Lay the saw on its side with the clutch 
drum upwards.
Lubrication involves engine oil dripping into the centre of 
the clutch drum as it rotates. (104) 
						

							MAINTENANCE
English – 271155296-38 Rev.1 2012-11-19
Cooling system
To keep the working temperature as low as possible the 
machine is equipped with a cooling system.
The cooling system consists of:
1 Air intake on the starter.
2 Air guide plate.
3 Fins on the flywheel.
4 Cooling fins on the cylinder.
5 Cylinder cover (directs cold air over the cylinder). 
(105)
Clean the cooling system with a brush once a week, more 
often in demanding conditions. A dirty or blocked cooling 
system results in the machine overheating which causes 
damage to the piston and cylinder.
”Air Injection” centrifugal 
cleaning
Centrifugal cleaning means the following: All air to the 
carburettor passes through the starter. Dirt and dust is 
centrifuged out by the cooling fan. (106)
IMPORTANT! In order to maintain operation of the 
centrifugal cleaning system it must be regularly 
maintained. Clean the air intake to the starter, the fins on 
the flywheel, the space around the flywheel, inlet pipe and 
carburettor compartment.
Winter use
Running problems can occur when using the machine in 
the cold and snowy conditions caused by:
• Too low engine temperature.
• Icing of the air filter and carburettor.
Special measures are therefore often required:
• Partly mask the air inlet on the starter to increase the 
working temperature of the engine.
Temperature -5°° ° °C or colder:
For running the machine in cold weather or powder snow, 
a special cover is available, which is mounted on the 
starter housing. This reduces the intake of cold air and 
prevents large amounts of snow from being sucked in. 
(107)
Part number: 505 45 04-01.
CAUTION! If the special winterising kit has been fitted or 
any measures have been taken to increase the 
temperature these changes must be reversed before the 
machine is used in normal temperature conditions. 
Otherwise there is a risk of overheating, resulting in 
severe damage to the engine.
IMPORTANT! Any maintenance other than that described 
in this manual must be carried out by your servicing dealer 
(retailer). 
						

							28 – English
MAINTENANCE
1155296-38 Rev.1 2012-11-19
Maintenance schedule
The following is a list of the maintenance steps that must be performed on the machine. Most of the items are described 
in the Maintenance section.
Daily maintenance Weekly maintenance Monthly maintenance
Clean the outside of the machine. Check the cooling system weekly.Check the brake band on the chain 
brake for wear. Replace when less 
than 0.6 mm (0,024 inch) remains at 
the most worn point.
Check that the components of the 
throttle control work safely. (Throttle 
lockout and throttle control.)Check the starter, starter cord and 
return spring.Check the clutch centre, clutch drum 
and clutch spring for wear.
Clean the chain brake and check that 
it operates safely. Make sure that the 
chain catcher is undamaged, and 
replace it if necessary.Check that the vibration damping 
elements are not damaged.Clean the spark plug. Check that the 
electrode gap is 0.5 mm.
The bar should be turned regularly for 
more even wear. Check the 
lubrication hole in the bar, to be sure it 
is not clogged. Clean the bar groove. 
If the bar has a sprocket tip, this 
should be lubricated.Lubricate the clutch drum bearing. Clean the outside of the carburettor.
Check that the bar and chain are 
getting sufficient oil.File off any burrs from the edges of 
the bar.Check the fuel filter and the fuel hose. 
Replace if necessary.
Check the saw chain with regard to 
visible cracks in the rivets and links, 
whether the saw chain is stiff or 
whether the rivets and links are 
abnormally worn. Replace if 
necessary.Clean or replace the spark arrestor 
mesh on the muffler.Empty the fuel tank and clean the 
inside.
Sharpen the chain and check its 
tension and condition. Check the drive 
sprocket for excessive wear and 
replace if necessary.Clean the carburettor compartment.Empty the oil tank and clean the 
inside.
Clean the starter units air intake.Clean the air filter. Replace if 
necessary.Check all cables and connections.
Check that nuts and screws are tight.
Check that the stop switch works 
correctly.
Check that there are no fuel leaks 
from the engine, tank or fuel lines.
Check that the chain does not rotate 
when the engine is idling. 
						

							English – 29
TECHNICAL DATA
1155296-38 Rev.1 2012-11-19
Technical data
Note 1: Noise emissions in the environment measured as sound power (LWA) in conformity with EC directive 2000/14/
EC.
Note 2: Equivalent sound pressure level, according to ISO 22868, is calculated as the time-weighted energy total for 
different sound pressure levels under various working conditions. Typical statistical dispersion for equivalent sound 
pressure level is a standard deviation of 1 dB (A).
Note 3: Equivalent vibration level, according to ISO 22867, is calculated as the time-weighted energy total for vibration 
levels under various working conditions. Reported data for equivalent vibration level has a typical statistical dispersion 
(standard deviation) of 1 m/s
2.135 135e 135e TrioBrake
Engine
Cylinder displacement, cm
340,9 40,9 40,9
Cylinder bore, mm 41 41 41
Stroke, mm 31 31 31
Idle speed, rpm 2900 2900 2900
Power, kW/ rpm 1,5/9000 1,5/9000 1,5/9000
Ignition system
Spark plugNGK BPMR 7A/ 
Champion RCJ 7Y/ 
Husqvarna HQT-1NGK BPMR 7A/ 
Champion RCJ 7Y/ 
Husqvarna HQT-1NGK BPMR 7A/ 
Champion RCJ 7Y/ 
Husqvarna HQT-1
Electrode gap, mm 0,5 0,5 0,5
Fuel and lubrication system
Fuel tank capacity, litre 0,37 0,37 0,37
Oil pump capacity at 9,000 rpm, ml/min 13 13 13
Oil tank capacity, litre 0,25 0,25 0,25
Type of oil pump Automatic Automatic Automatic
Weight
Chain saw without bar or chain, empty tanks, kg 4,4 4.6 4,8
Noise emissions (see note 1)
Sound power level, measured dB (A) 112 112 112
Sound power level, guaranteed L
WA dB (A) 114 114 114
Sound levels (see note 2)
Equivalent sound pressure level at the operator’s 
ear, dB(A)102 102 102
Equivalent vibration levels, a 
hveq (see note 3)
Front handle, m/s23,9 3,9 3,5
Rear handle, m/s23.8 3.8 3,6
Chain/bar
Standard bar length, inch/cm 14/35 14/35 14/35
Recommended bar lengths, inch/cm 14-16 / 35-40 14-16 / 35-40 14-16 / 35-40
Usable cutting length, inch/cm 13-15 / 33-38 13-15 / 33-38 13-15 / 33-38
Pitch, inch/mm 3/8 / 9,52 3/8 / 9,52 3/8 / 9,52
Thickness of drive links, inch/mm 0,050/1,3 0,050/1,3 0,050/1,3
Type of drive sprocket/number of teeth Spur/6 Spur/6 Spur/6
Maximum chain speed, m/sec 22,9 22,9 22,9 
						

							30 – English
TECHNICAL DATA
1155296-38 Rev.1 2012-11-19
Guide bar and saw chain combinations
The following cutting attachments are type approved for the models Husqvarna 135, 135e and 135e TrioBrake.
Saw chain filing and file gauges
EC-declaration of conformity
(Applies to Europe only)
Husqvarna AB, SE-561 82 Huskvarna, Sweden, tel: +46-36-146500, declares under sole responsibility that the chain 
saws for forest service Husqvarna 135, 135e and 135e TrioBrake from 2011’s serial numbers and onwards (the year 
is clearly stated in plain text on the type plate with subsequent serial number), are in conformity with the requirements 
of the COUNCIL’S DIRECTIVES:
   - of May 17, 2006 ”relating to machinery” 2006/42/EC
   - of December 15, 2004 ”relating to electromagnetic compatibility” 2004/108/EC.
   - of May 8, 2000 ”relating to the noise emissions in the environment” 2000/14/EC.
For information relating to noise emissions, see the Technical data chapter. The following standards have been applied: 
EN ISO 12100:2010, CISPR 12:2007, EN ISO 11681-1:2008
Notified body: 0404, SMP Svensk Maskinprovning AB, Fyrisborgsgatan 3, SE-754 50 Uppsala, Sweden, has carried 
out EC type examination in accordance with the machinery directive’s (2006/42/EC) article 12, point 3b. The certificates 
for EC type examination in accordance with annex IX, have the numbers: 0404/11/2306 - 135, 135e, 135e TrioBrake.
In addition, SMP, Svensk Maskinprovning AB, Fyrisborgsgatan 3, SE-754 50 Uppsala, Sweden, has certified conformity 
with annex V of the Council’s Directive of May 8, 2000 ”relating to the noise emissions in the environment” 2000/14/EC. 
The certificates have the numbers: 01/161/092 - 135, 135e, 01/161/097 - 135e TrioBrake.
The supplied chain saw conforms to the example that underwent EC type examination.
Huskvarna December 8, 2012
Bengt Frögelius, Development director chainsaw R&D (Authorized representative for Husqvarna AB and responsible for 
technical documentation.)Guide bar Saw chain
Length, inch Pitch, inch Gauge, mm Max. nose radius TypeLength, drive links 
(no.)
14
3/8 1,3 9T  Husqvarna H3752
1656